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Z3n posted:Sidewall Construction Question regarding this: Doesn't sidewall stiffness have to do more with the plies/material used for a given size/tread style? Isn't it a little to broad of a stroke to say "this brand is a stiff sidewall, these do not" as the same manufacture will greatly change construction qualities based on size and type?
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Jul 30, 2009 21:44
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 09:23 |
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OrangeFurious posted:What's the mass consensus about replacing with age rather than miles? My 99 ST1100 is still on original rubber AFAIK @ 20000Kms.  It's always garaged and covered though which make a big difference. UV is the big killer accelerator for rubber products. I have to do the ISO guidelines for my company and 7 years is the given for natural rubber products in general. To be fair though, I'll be looking at a set for next season though.
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Jul 31, 2009 02:04
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So I decided I am going to order some new pilot road 3 tires after all (Actually, largely because I don't like the OEM BT-021), but also want to use this opportunity to change the battery in my TPMS which will require a bit of soldering. So, instead of taking my rims back from the tire shop after they dismount the old ones to replace the soldered in battery, I'm thinking of doing it all myself in my garage. In order to do so, I'm going to need to buy some equipment for breaking the beads, spoons and a balancing stand/weights. Are things like this below OK? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-...=item43a857a808 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-3-pc-Tire-Iron-Kit-/250801897467?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a64f53ffb http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-...=item43abaf17ca Looks like for about $150 I could be in business for the once every few year tire changes. Is stuff like this OK for casual use? Edit: I'd rather not gently caress up my rims
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Jan 21, 2013 19:18
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Thanks for the tip! For what it was worth, I ended up ordering that breaker. Ordered those items and Pilot Road 3 tires. Should have a chance to put them on in the next couple of weeks.
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Jan 22, 2013 21:27
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Thanks for the hint with the protectors. I probably have some sheets of UHMW at work I could gently caress around with, but I still might get those. Also the warming up bit. Maybe I'll just do them in my basement if it isn't warm out or direct sun.
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Jan 23, 2013 15:04
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Just to make sure I am picturing this right: You just fold the plastic around the edge of the rim so when you pry the tire up and over you're not pushing the tire iron/spoon/whatever into the aluminum right?
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Jan 23, 2013 17:30
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What is the consensus on dynabeads? Are they safe to use with a TPMS?
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Jan 27, 2013 18:48
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Guys (gals?), I could really use some advice. Doing the rear tire on my C14, 190/50ZR17. It was a bitch, but I got the bead broken all around. The problem now: I cannot, for the life of me, get the first bit of the bead lifted over the rim. I hook under it with a tire tool (or prybar for that matter, I've tried), I cannot lever it over the edge. I actually start to significantly bend the tool and I am actually scared of bending the rim lip or snapping the tool. I am using rim protectors, thankfully. Am I missing something super obvious here? I know I am getting a hook on the bead, but the whole lifting up past the normal bead rest zone on the rim is proving pretty much impossible. Ideas?
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Feb 5, 2013 03:42
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If I squeeze it by hand I presume? I'll try. Thanks
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Feb 5, 2013 05:45
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I stopped last night after this post (well, more precisely after I started watching that 70+ min vid of cycle mayhem and having some beverages) but I like that clamp idea. I think I can make that work, and as you describe it, it makes sense. That tire is a pretty wide boot, so of course my virgin tire change is probably on one of the harder tires to do. Go me! 
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Feb 5, 2013 15:03
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Wha? I have basically no sidewall and what I do have is super rigid. I image a narrow but tall dirtbike tire should be tons easier, no?
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Feb 5, 2013 18:02
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OK, I am getting ticked off and hope someone can look at this and go "Oh, you big dummy, this is what you're doing wrong" Firstly, tools I am using:  I am squeezing the sidewall, get it to drop center, but I cannot, for the life of me, "shift" the tire over a smidgen towards the side. THe only way I see it even possible would to literally use 7 or 8 clamps, get the whole thing under tension to go center and try.. but I don't have half a dozen clamps. As soon as I take the clamp tension off, the tire goes back more or less to the beadline on both sides. I actually broke the tip off tool #4 just a second ago trying to pry it up and over.  Like, a moment or two after this photo was taken, the whole thing was back to the inside of the bead line. I am about >< close to saying gently caress it and take it somewhere, but I really don't like giving up, especially since I broke the bead all around... which I thought, foolishly, that would be the hard part. But really, I think I'm going to need to clamp it all the way around to move it over a bit. I have 2 quick clamps. e: It just dawned on me. I know realize the zip tie method. Get it really compressed to the center. Zip tie. Move over. Repeat. Instead of 8 clamps I've got zip ties. I don't have strong enough ones at home, but gently caress it, I'll buy some tomorrow. slidebite fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Feb 6, 2013 |
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Feb 6, 2013 02:27
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 09:23 |
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When I was shopping, it came down to PR2s or PR3s. Consensus was that the 3s were a decent jump over the 2s as well.
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Feb 20, 2013 02:19
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