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frozenphil posted:How about a nice white like Pikes Peak Pearl White (i.e. 350z white)? I tell you White bikes are the single sexiest thing on the planet.
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Aug 11, 2009 02:55
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Chairon posted:I tell you White bikes are the single sexiest thing on the planet. Agreed. There is a white monster that is often parked near my office and I have to oggle it every chance I get. I really wish there were an easy way to pain my bike. Though Id probably just go for an offset white stripe
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Aug 11, 2009 03:34
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frozenphil posted:How about a nice white like Pikes Peak Pearl White (i.e. 350z white)? Man, that looks freakin' amazing. About how much would a paint job like that run price wise?
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Aug 11, 2009 04:02
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I picked up a 2005 Ninja 250 as my first bike ever last Friday, and I'll be taking the MSF course at the end of the month. I'm having a hard time picking out gear though. I live in Texas, and it's been 100+ every day for a while now. Aside from protection, I'm pretty concerned about keeping cool. Anyone else in hot weather area have suggestions for what to look for? So far I'm leaning towards a simple Shoei (TZ-R Solid Helmet) helmet, the T-breeze (T-Breeze Air-Flo Jacket) jacket from Alpinestars, and maybe overpants in addition to shoes (Alpinestars Octane Riding Shoes) and gloves (Alpinestars SP-1 Gloves). I've been reading a lot over at ninja250.org, but I would love to hear some feedback specific to the hotter riding conditions. What do you think? Good for hot weather? Enough protection? Wasting money anywhere or not spending enough somewhere? Any suggestions for overpants?
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Aug 11, 2009 04:06
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Resource posted:I picked up a 2005 Ninja 250 as my first bike ever last Friday, and I'll be taking the MSF course at the end of the month. I'm having a hard time picking out gear though. I live in Texas, and it's been 100+ every day for a while now. Aside from protection, I'm pretty concerned about keeping cool. Anyone else in hot weather area have suggestions for what to look for? I'm in Dallas, and I love my Olympia Airglide2. Really as long as you're moving it's not too bad. That T-breeze would probably vent even better as its all mesh, though you're compromising your abrasion resistance. edit: If you're in the Dallas area, lets go riding sometime. blugu64 fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Aug 11, 2009 |
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Aug 11, 2009 04:13
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Resource posted:
Not sure about anything else, but i've got these for Overpants: http://www.newenough.com/protective..._overpants.html They flow quite a bit of air with the liner out and the mesh exposed, though i'm not sure if you would need just straight up mesh in Texas, here in California it was 108 a couple of weeks ago, then it dropped to about 80, really screwy weather so I like being prepared for anything weather shenanigans. I wore them for a couple of weeks over my pants, as they were my only pair and I just ripped them and they still work just wearing them around stores and stuff.
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Aug 11, 2009 04:15
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Chairon posted:Not sure about anything else, but i've got these for Overpants: http://www.newenough.com/protective..._overpants.html These look pretty cool. I have a pair of textile Alpinestars pants that are pretty good too. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/1/40/118/ITEM/Alpinestars-Air-Flo-Textile-Pants.aspx They're not technically overpants, but they work well enough. I'd like something with a little more knee padding than they have (and be at least as good as leather), so I might pony up and get a Motoport set and be done with it.
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Aug 11, 2009 05:49
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frozenphil posted:How about a nice white like Pikes Peak Pearl White (i.e. 350z white)? This is the exact bike+color combo I want. That color is SO nice.
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Aug 11, 2009 06:17
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Z3n & Blaster of Justice posted:
I remember reading a paper/study/whatever (can't find source sorry, I think it may have been talked about on AdvRider) claiming that losing rear traction is far worse than losing front traction. Seemed like an elaborate trolling effort to me. {quot="Blaster of Justice"]This is probably the worst advise ever provided and the most common misunderstanding. For all vehicles (cars, scooters, mopeds, bicycles, motorcycles and skateboards) friction between the asphalt and your rear tire(s) is way more important than the grip of your front (steering) tire(s). Please draw a vector force diagram to back up this stupid urban legend. I need a good laugh.[/quote] Show me a video of someone on a motorcycle (or other 2 wheeler like a bicycle. traveling at high speed, then locking up the front brake. And can you show me a similar video in which the rider locks up the front? Oh hey check it out, I did that poo poo for you. Which situation would you rather be in? You must back this up with real world application, otherwise all the theoretical physics in the world won't save your argument. I don't even own a motorcycle (yet  ) so how the gently caress could a scrub like me possibly give a gently caress about / understand this poo poo? I've ridden the gently caress out of bicycles before, and all the same rules apply.35 mph: *grabs the front*  OH gently caress IM GONNA DIE HOLY poo poo HOLY poo poo HOLY poo poo!*grabs the back* SKIDDDDDDDDDD oh gently caress that I left a fat skid mark on the asphalt. Speaking of 250's. I'm 6'3, huge loving dude, weigh 250 (I'd be about 220 if I were at my ideal weight, hopefully I'll get there by next summer when I ride). Any of you guys around my height and have any good/bad comments on the little Ninja's ergonomics? I've heard people who are around my height say it's tolerable, but by slim margins. I also have really long arms if that makes a difference. I don't want to go over 30-40hp with a first bike as long as I can find something that fits, so I guess I could go for a dual sport or something if I had to, but the 250r is just so fine  .
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Aug 11, 2009 08:36
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about the benefits of rear traction / front traction.
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I'm 6'4" and not quite so huge, and I do okay on my 250. The handlebar position is what bothers me the most about it. People have suggested risers for the bars, but its both the handlebar height and the width/angle.... they make me turn my forearms in a bit and my wrists out, which gets a little uncomfortable after 6 hours or so. I still take it out for long trips, but I'm really interested in getting a bigger bike (KLR650, V-Strom 650, BMW F-650, something like that) at some point. Until then, I'm okay with touring on the Ninjette if I have ibuprofin handy.
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Aug 11, 2009 13:26
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Entreri posted:Man, that looks freakin' amazing. About how much would a paint job like that run price wise? I'd imagine you could get someone to do it for around $1500. If you did it yourself you'd be hard pressed to spend more than $300, assuming you already have the tools you need. As with all body work, labor is your big ticket item. Fortunately with motorcycles, there isn't much that has to stay on the bike that needs to be masked and the parts disassemble and reassemble quickly and easily. Any competent body shop should be able to do that job inside of a weekend with good weather.
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Aug 11, 2009 15:13
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Internet_Wwwyzzerdd posted:I remember reading a paper/study/whatever (can't find source sorry, I think it may have been talked about on AdvRider) claiming that losing rear traction is far worse than losing front traction. Seemed like an elaborate trolling effort to me. Blaster doesn't know what he's talking about. For christ's sake, he's comparing 4 wheeled vehicles to 2, it's not the same thing in the slightest. Probably just another troll. Anyways, comfort is really relative, especially considering that some people can be long torso, short legs, and others can be short torso, long legs. Add in different arm lengths, etc, and what it comes down to is that you have to go and sit on the bike for awhile to figure out if it'll fit you or not.
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Aug 11, 2009 17:42
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Internet_Wwwyzzerdd posted:I am big and fat! Would I fit on a 250? I see people significantly taller then me saying they fit okay, but I'm 6' flat and I find the Ninja 250 to be VERY uncomfortable. Most of my height is in my legs, and they feel folded up like a pretzel while on the bike. I'd probably start cramping up after a few minutes. I'm not sure how these guys who are 6'4" do it.
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Aug 11, 2009 18:27
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Just bought a used 08 250 and it's about to hit 5k miles. Should I consider buying some new tires in the near future? If so, what are some good options?
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Aug 11, 2009 18:27
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Entreri posted:Just bought a used 08 250 and it's about to hit 5k miles. Should I consider buying some new tires in the near future? If so, what are some good options? Sport Demons are the general standby. How are your tires wearing? What tires are on there now?
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Aug 11, 2009 18:29
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blugu64 posted:edit: If you're in the Dallas area, lets go riding sometime. I'm in Austin, but my brother lives up in Dallas. Once I get some practice in I would definitely be up for a ride. And, thanks for the tips, I'll be getting some pants with something in the knees, but I'm still not sure to what extent I want to go with the boots. I can't decide between a true boot which might be harder to walk in, and a riding shoe, which might offer less protection but could be used as a normal shoe.
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Aug 11, 2009 19:10
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Resource posted:I'm in Austin, but my brother lives up in Dallas. Once I get some practice in I would definitely be up for a ride. Well, you REALLY don't want to gently caress up your foot or ankle. Did you know theres 26 bones in your foot alone? And they just love to break? I dropped a hunk of steel on my foot ELeven months ago and ruined a ligament and broke another bone. For only about a month now have I been able to actually do any of the normal things I do whether its riding a bike or hell, even walking without a limp. I could go on for another three pages but for brevity, theres so much riding on your feet. Without them, you can't walk. Not being able to walk sucks horribly. So protect them, okay?
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Aug 11, 2009 19:49
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True riding boots are the only bit of gear I'm missing, and it scares me a little. I need to wait on whether I get this job I'm interviewing for to get a great pair though. No work sucks rear end. I've been wearing something like these, which are "better" than the cheap rear end hiking boots I had before, but still just cheap Payless crap. 
sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Aug 11, 2009 |
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Aug 11, 2009 20:13
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Resource posted:I can't decide between a true boot which might be harder to walk in, and a riding shoe, which might offer less protection but could be used as a normal shoe. sirbeefalot posted:True riding boots are the only bit of gear I'm missing, and it scares me a little. I love my Icon Superduty 3 boots. They are comfortable enough to wear around all day at work while providing a good deal of protection. You're not going to get the best ankle support in a comfortable to wear boot, but I think these make a solid compromise between comfort and protection.
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Aug 11, 2009 20:54
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Tsaven Nava posted:I'm not sure how these guys who are 6'4" do it. Like this  To be fair most of my height is in my torso, and I have a 34" inseam.
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Aug 12, 2009 01:22
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edit: oh god blugu64 fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Aug 12, 2009 |
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Aug 12, 2009 01:51
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That actually looks more comfortable than my SV.
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Aug 12, 2009 02:09
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blugu64 posted:all we know is, he's called the sklnd. We start that, everyone in CA's gonna want to do it.
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Aug 12, 2009 15:55
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6'2"+ Ninjette Rider Club, Televiper checking in. e: bigger pic for better view of Fort Washington - The Capital's Guardian televiper fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Aug 12, 2009 |
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Aug 12, 2009 16:50
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sklnd posted:Like this WTF. My inseam is only 34" as well. Uh, now I'm wondering if it was a Ninja 250 I sat on. This was like 6 months ago, I was wandering around the shop's showroom waiting for my tires to be changed, and I tried on a little Kawasaki crotch-rocket type thing that felt absurdly light, and the sales guy said it was a 250. I assumed it was a Ninja, do they make something else that's sportbike-ish in a 250? The riding position on what I sat on was more agressive, more feet-back.
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Aug 12, 2009 17:46
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Tsaven Nava posted:WTF. My inseam is only 34" as well. They changed the styling of the 2008 and later models, so you probably saw one of those.
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Aug 12, 2009 19:50
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Alright, I went ahead and listened to all the advice about the boots. I like having feet. The only thing I wanted differently was the SP-1 gloves instead of SP-2 but they were out of stock. I'll look like an Alpinestars ad, but hopefully I'll be safer and not cooking in my gear. Still looking for a helmet. Thanks again for all the help.   
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Aug 12, 2009 22:12
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sectoidman posted:They changed the styling of the 2008 and later models, so you probably saw one of those. In that case, my hope is renewed that I can join the Ninjette club. I might be moving to NYC, and I'm thinking it would make a good commuter/inner city bike.
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Aug 13, 2009 00:36
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sirbeefalot posted:I've been wearing something like these, which are "better" than the cheap rear end hiking boots I had before, but still just cheap Payless crap. Whaaaat, those 6" Caterpiller "2nd Shift" boots, and I've abused mine for going on 8 years now! Admittedly they're nothing like a true motorcycle boot, but I've treated mine like crap and they've taken everything I've thrown at them, including dropping a bike on my foot, letting cement set up on them, getting run over by a pickup truck, and kicking nearly everything in sight. I may pick up their "Indiana FX" which is the 9" equivalent...they'd certainly provide better ankle protection while riding, and I can wear them at work. E: I recalled having taken a picture of my boot last year for a PYF footwear thread : http://alexkubacki.com/Junk/cat.jpg
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Aug 13, 2009 00:49
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UserNotFound posted:Whaaaat, those 6" Caterpiller "2nd Shift" boots, and I've abused mine for going on 8 years now! Admittedly they're nothing like a true motorcycle boot, but I've treated mine like crap and they've taken everything I've thrown at them, including dropping a bike on my foot, letting cement set up on them, getting run over by a pickup truck, and kicking nearly everything in sight. I may pick up their "Indiana FX" which is the 9" equivalent...they'd certainly provide better ankle protection while riding, and I can wear them at work. Those boots specifically would probably be pretty decent, except that was just the first similarly designed pair I found with GIS. Mine are from Payless, they cost $5. They cover my ankles more than a pair of tennis shoes would, but there's really not much structural support like a real pair of MC boots would have. And my "nice" work boots are just low tops, so they wouldn't really work either. e: these are mine:  WATERPROOF*  * like everything else made of cheap plastic sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Aug 13, 2009 |
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Aug 13, 2009 00:52
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Aha, I see. I know at one point you could buy my boots at Meijer, so I didn't think Payless was a stretch. Now I'm reminiscing about all the good times I've had in my boots (and the times I've bruised my lung or otherwise required medical treatment)
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Aug 13, 2009 00:56
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Resource posted:Alright, I went ahead and listened to all the advice about the boots. I like having feet. The only thing I wanted differently was the SP-1 gloves instead of SP-2 but they were out of stock. I'll look like an Alpinestars ad, but hopefully I'll be safer and not cooking in my gear. Still looking for a helmet. Thanks again for all the help. I have these pants and they're great, easy to get on and off, even with boots, and flow a lot of air. Only problem is the knee armor is so thin it's almost non-existant and it rides up your leg on the bike so it wont even help in a crash. My Joe Rocket Alter ego pants were better in that dept but they were harder to put on and take off. I also am on my 2nd set of SMX-4 boots and I love them for commuting. I can walk around all day in them if needs be. I've even been to night clubs in them lol First pair held up great in a crash and gave their lives protecting the hell out of my feet in a crash. I used to use them for track days but now I have a pair of Sidi Vertigo Corsa's for that.
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Aug 13, 2009 05:57
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How long does it take your Ninjettes to warm up? I don't know if I'm being impatient with the warmup time, but the first time I ride my bike after it's cooled down, it takes forever to actually get going. Letting off the clutch as slow as I can stalls the bike. Giving throttle while I'm letting off the clutch stalls the bike. Eventually I can get it going and then it will behave better from that point onwards, but that initial start is always a bitch. I had to move it today, and it took probably 10 minutes until it would move without stalling. This was several minutes after it no longer required choke to idle.
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Aug 14, 2009 01:01
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NoCleverName posted:How long does it take your Ninjettes to warm up? I don't know if I'm being impatient with the warmup time, but the first time I ride my bike after it's cooled down, it takes forever to actually get going. Letting off the clutch as slow as I can stalls the bike. Giving throttle while I'm letting off the clutch stalls the bike. Eventually I can get it going and then it will behave better from that point onwards, but that initial start is always a bitch. I had to move it today, and it took probably 10 minutes until it would move without stalling. This was several minutes after it no longer required choke to idle.
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Aug 14, 2009 01:07
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My startup procedure is this: Turn bike on, have choke at about half. Adjust choke as needed to keep the RPMs below 3000. Put on helmet and other gear. Start riding, turn off choke. By the time I'm at my first stoplight (half a block) its usually warm. Sometimes it take a little longer, so I just dork with the throttle until its happy. When my valves needed to be adjusted, the thing took a long time to warm up, and was easy to kill. So, if you've put enough miles on since the last valve job, that might be worth looking into.
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Aug 14, 2009 01:08
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sklnd posted:My startup procedure is this: Bike's new to me. 2005 with ~940 miles. Is it worth trying to work on the valves myself? I've read the ninja250.org article on valve adjustment but I can't really get a grasp on how difficult it actually is. Would it also be worthwhile to sync the carbs? I've pulled and cleaned them twice since I got the bike.
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Aug 14, 2009 01:17
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NoCleverName posted:Bike's new to me. 2005 with ~940 miles. quote:Is it worth trying to work on the valves myself? I've read the ninja250.org article on valve adjustment but I can't really get a grasp on how difficult it actually is.  For as often as the 250 calls for valve adjustment, its a good skill to have. Also, buy the valve adjustment tool, its worth it. quote:Would it also be worthwhile to sync the carbs? I've pulled and cleaned them twice since I got the bike.
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Aug 14, 2009 01:27
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I'll usually ride with the choke on partway for about 10 minutes or so. I turn on the cold bike with the choke open all the way, and immediately adjust the choke so the idle is around 4k or so. I don't usually start the bike until I'm sitting on it, ready to go. I'll ride with it on for those first 10 minutes or so, adjusting the choke at lights to keep it below 4k (I could probably go lower), until the temp gauge is past the first two vertical marks. By that point, I can usually shut off the choke completely, and the bike will idle and take off in first without a problem. Much sooner than that, and it slowly drops to around 500 rpm at idle if I don't goose it a little, and it hesitates when I try to take off from a light.
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Aug 14, 2009 03:37
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Anybody have advice on chopping the fender of an '06? I was just about to start today, when I realized I have no idea how to get the wires to the blinkers out of the old fender, and I'd rather not cut it to pieces (just in case) The PO gave me the fender eliminator kit he made as written here (linkage- his kit also included a precut replacement fender). It's not very clear on how to get the blinkers off, if I'm missing something let me know. I wouldn't bother doing this, but my drat blinkers keep falling out. Today I shoved a dime in the rubber...flanges (?) I guess they're called to hold them in.
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Aug 14, 2009 03:48
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NoCleverName posted:How long does it take your Ninjettes to warm up? I don't know if I'm being impatient with the warmup time, but the first time I ride my bike after it's cooled down, it takes forever to actually get going. Letting off the clutch as slow as I can stalls the bike. Giving throttle while I'm letting off the clutch stalls the bike. Eventually I can get it going and then it will behave better from that point onwards, but that initial start is always a bitch. I had to move it today, and it took probably 10 minutes until it would move without stalling. This was several minutes after it no longer required choke to idle. "cold blooded" bikes mean "I have dirty pilot circuits" not anything inherant in the bike.
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Aug 14, 2009 06:19
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