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NoCleverName posted:How long does it take your Ninjettes to warm up? I crank the bike, put on my gear, and go. I usually have a little hesitation as I'm pulling out of my driveway, but it clears up after a few seconds. I've only had to use the choke twice, and even then I only needed the choke while I put on my gear. Once I got on the bike I turned the choke off and rode away fine.
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Aug 14, 2009 17:25
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I was riding my 250 home when the shifter suddenly felt loose while shifting up. I pulled over to see what was up, and somehow the gear shift lever bolt had completely fallen out, leaving me with a bike that could only shift down. Has this happened to anyone else? The internet tells me this is not such an uncommon problem, and I'd rather just order the part and replace it, however nowhere has the part # of this particular bolt been mentioned in any of the threads I've found. I've been staring at parts diagrams, but can't figure out exactly which of the 2309824823 bolts this particular one is. 
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Aug 15, 2009 22:05
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 Looks like it's just below 92150A (grabbed this diagram from bikebandit) EDIT: I can't quite seem to find it, and the service manual didn't seem to have any better diagrams. You might try printing it out, and the photo and taking it to the dealer and see if they can help. blugu64 fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Aug 15, 2009 |
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Aug 15, 2009 22:18
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When i lost a bolt, I just went to home depot and bought another one.
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Aug 15, 2009 23:34
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NoCleverName posted:How long does it take your Ninjettes to warm up? I don't know if I'm being impatient with the warmup time, but the first time I ride my bike after it's cooled down, it takes forever to actually get going. Letting off the clutch as slow as I can stalls the bike. Giving throttle while I'm letting off the clutch stalls the bike. Eventually I can get it going and then it will behave better from that point onwards, but that initial start is always a bitch. I had to move it today, and it took probably 10 minutes until it would move without stalling. This was several minutes after it no longer required choke to idle. The bikes do seem to be a bit cold blooded. On my 09 the quickest way to warm it up for me is to apply full choke for about 3 mins, which would have the RPMS hovering around 4k+, then half choke for another couple of minutes. I know when its ready when a little twist of the throttle produces an instant response with no sluggishness or it dying. The annoying thing is, I'll often have to re-apply the choke if I park and shut it down for even an hour or so.
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Aug 16, 2009 00:03
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You guys wanted a 6" rear on your '08+ 250s, right? Apparently you can get a 210 series on the back now, this is a 190. 
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Aug 16, 2009 06:29
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Nerobro posted:It may be several minutes before the bike will idle on it's own. that's normal. But the bike should be "ridable" within seconds of startup. if it's not, you still have some carb cleaning to do. Could it be where I set my pilot screws? I did 2.5 turns which is apparently the default for the 250. I think I cleaned the carbs pretty thoroughly the last time I did it, but if it isn't the pilot screws I'll have to pull them again because something is definitely wrong right now.
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Aug 16, 2009 15:11
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frozenphil posted:You guys wanted a 6" rear on your '08+ 250s, right? Apparently you can get a 210 series on the back now, this is a 190. Bonus round: You can REALLY show off your chicken strips! 
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Aug 17, 2009 02:46
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So I've kinda half-heartedly been considering swapping out my stock brake lines for SS. Is there really any reason for me to go beyond the "that would be neat" phase here? I've got stock discs, with Galfer Sintered pads up front and something in the rear. I haven't really had any problems stopping, it just seems like it requires quite a bit of force some times, though its not air-in-the-lines mushy or anything. Maybe I should just bleed the lines first?
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Aug 21, 2009 03:24
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SS lines do not change the amount of force needed to brake the bike. Bleeding the brakes doesn't help that either. bleeding affects brake fade. Pads affect bite, and feel, and fade. If you want more stopping power, you should consider a second disk :-)
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Aug 21, 2009 04:15
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Nerobro posted:SS lines do not change the amount of force needed to brake the bike. Bleeding the brakes doesn't help that either. bleeding affects brake fade. Pads affect bite, and feel, and fade. What exactly does that entail? This feels kinda like "if you need to ask, you can't afford it."
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Aug 21, 2009 04:42
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Nerobro posted:SS lines do not change the amount of force needed to brake the bike. Bleeding the brakes doesn't help that either. bleeding affects brake fade. Pads affect bite, and feel, and fade. Ineffective or very worn/glazed pads will not provide as much friction and will require more force to get a given level of braking. I'd go for pads that provide more initial bite before I dropped money elsewhere. Pads and clean fluid.
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Aug 21, 2009 06:01
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So, I was changing my oil for the first time and I think I pulled the wrong plug out.  http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm34/Dr_Shorty65/FliterandPlugcopy.jpg I pulled out the plug with the blue dot on it instead of the one next to it. It drained out a bunch of oil and I have no idea what it does. Can anyone explain what I need to do next? It had a washer on it, do I need to replace it?
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Aug 22, 2009 06:55
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That one in the foreground looks like the oil screen cover. The one next to the filter cover, which I'm assuming is the one you removed, looks like the regular drain plug, especially if it had a (crush?) washer on it. Maybe the oil screen on the new bikes has its own drain plug for some reason?? It doesn't on the pre-redesign ninjas anyway. Anyway, I think you're fine. You can use the old crush washer over again without worrying about it, in my experience. Assuming that plug in front in that picture is in fact the oil screen cover, you might want to pull that little housing off as well and check the screen if this is the first oil change you've done on the bike. Its just a reusable mesh dome screen that catches REALLY big poo poo in the case (like loose gasket material from assembly). E: Yeah, you're fine. That plug you removed is in fact the old drain plug, and you can change the oil from now on without removing that one. sirbeefalot fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Aug 22, 2009 |
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Aug 22, 2009 07:07
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I think this got skipped over...*ahem*Methusulah posted:Anybody have advice on chopping the fender of an '06? I was just about to start today, when I realized I have no idea how to get the wires to the blinkers out of the old fender, and I'd rather not cut it to pieces (just in case) The PO gave me the fender eliminator kit he made as written here (linkage- his kit also included a precut replacement fender).
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Aug 22, 2009 23:18
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Don't just hack it off. Take the fender off properly and replace it with something like this. Finding all the bolts to get the fender off is kind of a challenge, but it isn't rocket science. One of the idiot POs of my 04 just chopped mine and left the blinkers as is (by cutting around them) and its annoying as hell. I had to redo/clean up a lot of his work - he put a metal license plate bracket on by screwing tiny angle brackets on with wood screws into the rear plastics. I had to fab a better bracket with some aluminum strap and I reused the existing fender bolt holes after cleaning up the cut with a knife. Don't be that guy, please. Do it right if you are gonna do it. Also note that removing the fender means you no longer have a license plate light, which is illegal in most places. There are ways around that, Anyway, there's some opaque plastic on the bottom of the rear light lens that you can pop out pretty easily with a screwdriver. Pop that out, cut a CD jewel case into a rectangle larger than that hole, and get some plasticweld epoxy stuff to glue it in. If you do that, your rear light illuminates your license plate well enough to pass inspection (at least in Texas). The only weird thing is that using your brakes makes your plate brighter at night. 
sklnd fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Aug 22, 2009 |
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Aug 22, 2009 23:33
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The only problem I'm having is getting the blinkers (all the wires/lights out actually -ed) out of the old fender. I've got a kit and all that, but I don't really want to cut the current one if I can help it. Do you just have to take the blinkers apart to pull the wires through? I'm assuming the PO of mine ran into the same trouble which is why it isn't already chopped, because the brake light is already redone with clear plastic on the bottom for a license plate light.
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Aug 23, 2009 00:47
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Decided I should be more like sklnd.
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Aug 23, 2009 16:02
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Fiancee ditched her old-gen 250 for a 2009 slightly-used one. It's got about 1900 on it, full Yoshimura exhaust (good for 2.3hp or something - no joke) with jet kit (~.75hp or something), but it sounds pretty good, and she loves the everliving poo poo out of it already. She's very impressed with the better mid-range power, and increased throttle response, too.
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Aug 26, 2009 17:52
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drat I still can't believe how nice the new 250s look. If I didn't want to do some longer distance riding next year I'd buy one of those and ride it for a long time.
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Aug 26, 2009 18:54
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kylej posted:drat I still can't believe how nice the new 250s look. If I didn't want to do some longer distance riding next year I'd buy one of those and ride it for a long time. Who says you can't do both?
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Aug 26, 2009 20:50
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Sat on a friends 09 250r today. Thing was like a pocket bike. I'm thinking of just dropping $1000-2000 on a 250-400cc dual sport and learning on that. I really want to get some dirt experience under my belt as I hear it makes you a much better rider on the road as well.
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Aug 28, 2009 04:30
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televiper posted:Decided I should be more like sklnd. That's kinda neat, how are your front signal stalks mounted?
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Aug 29, 2009 06:05
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sirbeefalot posted:That's kinda neat, how are your front signal stalks mounted? 3" L-bracket from Home Depot, attached at the top bolts for the radiator. I used the original bolts for all points, with a crush-washer between the bracket and the nut for the lamps. Didn't even have to futz with the wire length. The mirrors went back into their original mounts, but after a couple of days I went back and added rubber washers between them and the body to cut down on the vibration some. I've been checking the tightness of everything periodically, and nothing has come loose so far.
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Aug 30, 2009 01:26
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I need to check my valves this week, (desperately) what do i need to know? ninja250.org says Sears has feelers. Would autozone or o'reilly's have them? Any suggestions?
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Aug 30, 2009 04:32
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Methusulah posted:I need to check my valves this week, (desperately) what do i need to know? ninja250.org says Sears has feelers. Would autozone or o'reilly's have them? Any suggestions? Yup. They're just called feeler gauges, get a set that you can remove individual feelers from and that have the smallest increments available. It makes getting the feeler in a lot easier.
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Aug 30, 2009 04:45
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Im going to poo poo on your party and say that while the 2009 Ninja 250 is a cool bike... it loving sucks up the MSF U-Turn Box.
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Aug 30, 2009 04:52
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Methusulah posted:I need to check my valves this week, (desperately) what do i need to know? ninja250.org says Sears has feelers. Would autozone or o'reilly's have them? Any suggestions? 1. Don't do something silly like drain the coolant to remove the radiator. You can get by with just loosening it. 2. Go slow, and double-check your clearances once you're done. 3. The valve adjustment tool helps a ton. 4. Just follow the instructions. Its a pretty easy job.
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Aug 30, 2009 04:59
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Z3n posted:Yup. They're just called feeler gauges, get a set that you can remove individual feelers from and that have the smallest increments available. It makes getting the feeler in a lot easier. is it frustratingly hard to do without this special tool? They say you can use eyeglass screwdrivers and what not, which I have. Will I completely hate it, or is that plausible?
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Aug 30, 2009 05:00
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Upside Potential posted:Im going to poo poo on your party and say that while the 2009 Ninja 250 is a cool bike... it loving sucks up the MSF U-Turn Box. Heh. No offense, but are you sure its the bikes fault?
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Aug 30, 2009 05:07
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blugu64 posted:Heh. No offense, but are you sure its the bikes fault? I'm still scared to do it on my own bike. Maybe I'm just a wienie  ...
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Aug 30, 2009 05:16
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Methusulah posted:is it frustratingly hard to do without this special tool? They say you can use eyeglass screwdrivers and what not, which I have. Will I completely hate it, or is that plausible? It's plausible, but you'll probably have to use trial and error to get the spacing right. Not a big deal, just a bit slower.
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Aug 30, 2009 05:33
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Well, while I'm asking about valves, i guess it's prudent to ask that If my biek is shaking more and sounding rougher at lower (<5k rpm) the valves should be done? I bought it at 3150 miles, and now it's at around 4500. I figure i'll do them anyway, but those are some sure signs, eh?
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Aug 30, 2009 05:41
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Upside Potential posted:Im going to poo poo on your party and say that while the 2009 Ninja 250 is a cool bike... it loving sucks up the MSF U-Turn Box. Yeah sorry friend, there were two in my class and both of them did the box flawlessly, with about an extra 1.5 feet on two sides. Both guys were R1 riders.
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Aug 30, 2009 05:47
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Upside Potential posted:Im going to poo poo on your party and say that while the 2009 Ninja 250 is a cool bike... it loving sucks up the MSF U-Turn Box. If you think it's bad on a 250, I hope you never have to try it on a ZZR1200.  Methusulah posted:Well, while I'm asking about valves, i guess it's prudent to ask that If my biek is shaking more and sounding rougher at lower (<5k rpm) the valves should be done? I bought it at 3150 miles, and now it's at around 4500. I figure i'll do them anyway, but those are some sure signs, eh? Eh, if it's at low amounts of throttle opening, (like that ever happens on a 250) it could be the carbs not being synced up nicely, but valves can do funny things to a bike too. May as well check them at least.
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Aug 30, 2009 07:21
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Z3n posted:It's plausible, but you'll probably have to use trial and error to get the spacing right. Not a big deal, just a bit slower. The tool corrects no trial and error. I don't know what you're talking about. Really all the tool does is serve as a socket to loosen the tappet locknut, and a guide to make it easy to turn the tappet screw. You can do the whole thing without it, and you'll need a 9mm socket anyway to torque the locknuts down to spec with a torque wrench. Most of the good the tool does is make it super easy to tighten and loosen the tappet screw, as the socket part guides the screwdriver part directly to it. This is nice because its kinda hard to get good light on the valves and things are tiny and hard to see. Its worth the price to me if you're gonna keep the bike around.
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Aug 30, 2009 14:45
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sklnd posted:The tool corrects no trial and error. I don't know what you're talking about. Right, that's what I said. He asked it it was plausible to do it with eyeglass screwdrivers and I said it was but it'd probably take a little trial and error to get it right
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Aug 30, 2009 15:42
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Upside Potential posted:Im going to poo poo on your party and say that while the 2009 Ninja 250 is a cool bike... it loving sucks up the MSF U-Turn Box. I can turn full lock u-turns on mine that, with counter-leaning, allow me to easily u-turn inside of a two parking space wide area.
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Aug 30, 2009 17:22
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So, while sealing my gas tank I've come to learn that it leaks when upside down. Not a ton, but it's definitely noticeable. Anyone else's Ninja do this? If it's not normal, could it allow rain water into the tank? I took apart the tank cap and didn't notice anything wrong with it.
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Aug 31, 2009 15:12
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NoCleverName posted:So, while sealing my gas tank I've come to learn that it leaks when upside down. Not a ton, but it's definitely noticeable. Anyone else's Ninja do this? If it's not normal, could it allow rain water into the tank? I took apart the tank cap and didn't notice anything wrong with it. Normal, there's a vent that'll leak gas if the tank is upside down.
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Aug 31, 2009 17:00
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