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If you were so bad at it you had one side of the axle at the front and the other at the back, yes. Otherwise, probably not.
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Mar 13, 2014 02:00
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So where should I start troubling this issue? If I were to jack up the rear, while the bike was running, and kick it into gear than back into neutral should the rear tire stay spinning for an extended period of time?
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Mar 13, 2014 02:08
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What issue are you having, is the first question. Because the answer to your question is "It depends.". If you're concerned your rear brake is dragging, go for a 3 or 4 block ride without using the rear brake and when you get back touch the rear brake. If it's changed temperature, it's dragging, if it hasn't, it's not.
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Mar 13, 2014 02:11
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Z3n posted:without using the rear brake But that's suicide!
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Mar 13, 2014 16:22
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captainOrbital posted:But that's suicide! You ruined the punchline! 
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Mar 13, 2014 17:39
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So I was going to ride to work today for the first time all year, when something catastrophic happened (of course). After I filled my tank up with gas, I noticed that the petcock is dripping. It looks like it's dripping fuel from the bolts that hold it to the tank. I did rebuild my 'cock over the winter, grease it all up and put it back together, but it doesn't seem that the body of the petcock is doing the leaking, as it drips whether or not I have it in the "off" position. I thought I had tightened the bolts leading to the tank enough. The problem now is that I may have tightened one of them too much, as it's spinning more or less freely. I this a fixable thing? I don't need a new tank, do I? Oh, uh, 2004 EX250.
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Mar 20, 2014 20:23
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Might need to install a helicoil or timesert to get it fixed. I don't know how those bolts are secured. Also, did the gasket seat appropriately?
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Mar 20, 2014 21:11
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If you use the wrong bolts in the wrong holes it goes in too deep and punches a hole in the tank.
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Mar 20, 2014 22:20
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I think that's just the fairing bolts that can punch through the tank. The bolts that hold the petcock in place are just two regular nut and bolt thingies that go through pre-existing holes. Also yes, there is a gasket. Here's a pic of mine I took cause there was a tiny ant. You can see the bolt holes on either side and the gasket itself. Unfortunately, not much way to tell what's wrong unless you take it apart... 
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Mar 20, 2014 22:29
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Yeah misread it, but wouldn't be surprised if his ham handedness broke the tank already or maybe that is in the future.
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Mar 21, 2014 11:28
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The bolt just spins in either direction now. I really didn't turn it that hard, but something must have...broke in there. So since I couldn't remove the bolt without some sort of drilling or grinding that involves hot metal sparks near my gas tank, I put some sealant around the area to hold the gas in while I get a new tank (and possibly petcock) from Ebay. Stupid idea? Quite possibly! But it's holding for now. Also: drat is that bike hard to start in the cold. Especially after it's been sitting around in a garage during one of the most annoying Chicago winters on record.
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Mar 21, 2014 16:33
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Just drain your tank and remove the petcock to see what's up, I'm not sure why you think drilling's required  Generally you drill if your bolt is stuck, not if it's spinning freely
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Mar 21, 2014 16:44
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Well because the bolt that's closer to the front of the bike won't unscrew. It just spins and spins forever, like a...political...guy...like something that spins a lot. I tried tugging on the 'cock a bit while the back bolt was out, and it wouldn't budge. The petcock wouldn't even rotate around the bolt that was still in there. Old bikes! If my kids didn't need braces, I'd probably be sitting on an FZ-09 as we speak.
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Mar 21, 2014 16:49
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Oh, I get it now. Have you tried pulling the bolt itself with locking vice grips or anything? Can't imagine what's going on with the threads if it spins but won't come out at all, yikes.
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Mar 21, 2014 16:53
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captainOrbital posted:It just spins and spins forever, like a...political...guy...like something that spins a lot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NT6_PXXjU94
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Mar 21, 2014 16:55
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All right, question for the thread. I tend to babble on, so short version: new rotor, new brakes. Brakes scrape rotor very slightly, intermittently, without impeding rotation as far as I can tell. How worried should I be? Longer version: About 10 months ago I bought a 2002 Ninja 250 off of a kid on craigslist. Said he'd done the carbs recently, and had no other information about the bike. Doesn't even have a manual. Whatever, bike looks straight and title's clear so off I go. I'm not completely certain what's pertinent, so I'm going to throw everything at the wall and we'll see what sticks: 1. New rear tire. One that came with was bald. Front tire's fine but seems to leak a little. The Shop tightened the chain since they had the back off anyway. Nice folks. 2. Changed oil & filter. Never done this before on anything. Exciting, I know. 3. Went balls out crazy and checked valves (very tight, adjusted to slightly loose end) and replaced spark plugs (maybe slightly dirty? Clearly still working). Bike feels a little less tense, but might be me. Changed fuel filter as well. 4. Front brake is definitely pulsing, which is a sign the rotor is warped. Not dangerous, but noticeable and a little unnerving if you've forgotten about it again. I promise myself that I'm fixing that next. 5. Winterize the bike. This is in October. I live in a land where the weather hate-fucks you for 6 months a year. 6. Two weekends ago I change the oil on the bike again (don't really trust oil that's been sitting that long). Ride the bike for 5 minutes first to get the oil warmed up and discover the joys of cold tires. Didn't crash but had some slippery moments. Decide that it is definitely time to get my poo poo together so the moment the weather clears I can go out paranoia-free. 7. Make some orders. Now, I've been planning this for a while. See, the rotor needs replacing. So, naturally, the pads need replacing as well. And while I'm at it, I have no idea how old this brake fluid is, that should be replaced as well. And, huh, service schedule says brake lines should be replaced every four years? Pretty sure these are original to the bike, so yeah... let's go stainless while we're at it. 8. Spent an 11-hour Sunday making all this happen. I'd bitch, but everything went really well. Still sore though. Venhill lines, Galfer wave rotor and pads, .... oh right, there was one hitch. I put in the new brake pads and they were touching in the middle. Can't be right, there's supposed to be enough room for a rotor in there. Clearly not going to happen, so I do some quick research and, yeah, that's hosed. The larger of the piston cups was cemented into place with grime - wouldn't move either way. So all the front braking was happening from just the smaller piston. Eh, being fair to the little guy, it did a fine job. Repeated sprayings with brake cleaner did nothing, so I had to blow them out with compressed air, then clean everything and put it back. Put everything back together, bled brakes, so on and so forth. Brake lever stops the bike from a walk nice and easy, not able to check at further speed because I don't have a torque wrench capable of 88 newton-meters just yet so cannot torque the front axle properly. So the restatement of the question is this: When I have the bike on the ground it moves fine (as far as I can tell), but with the front tire in the air the brake pads contact the rotor enough to make a scraping sound. This sound is non-constant, and does not interfere with the rotation of the tire as far as I can tell. It might be at the same spot on the tire, cannot tell. Should I be worried about this, and if so what can I do about it? Or is this normal for a bike before the brakes are bedded in? PS: loving spedometer hub, man. Seriously. These tabs have to go in these notches, but not those notches, which are visually identical, because if you do that and tighten the axle at all it locks the front wheel. Oh, and I forgot to replace the brake fluid in the rear lines because working that long makes me dumb as mud. Screw it, I don't use the rear anyway.
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Apr 3, 2014 03:54
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Totally normal. The rotors push the pistons back in so they always drag a bit. Flush the rear brake when you have some time. Did the seals on the front brake look ok?
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Apr 3, 2014 05:56
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Z3n posted:Totally normal. The rotors push the pistons back in so they always drag a bit. Flush the rear brake when you have some time. Did the seals on the front brake look ok? Yeah, which is good because I didn't have replacements at hand. Thanks. I'm clearly new at this, so everything I perceive as slightly off is panic-inducing. And will do. At least brake fluid is cheap, because I threw the bottle away.
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Apr 3, 2014 14:00
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Follow-up: managed to borrow a 1/2" torque wrench to put the front axle on tight, cotter pinned it and triple-checked everything. Went for a ride, maybe 30 miles total, no freeway. Brakes feel about 80% of what they were (which should improve even more) and NO PULSATING! Also brake fluid didn't piss all over the road and I didn't die. Good day all 'round.
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Apr 12, 2014 03:10
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I've got a question about the dogbones. I just swapped in the stock ones and I can't remember how those gaskets on the bottom long bolt should look like (part 92049-1109). They can be pulled in towards the suspension arm or out towards the link - I'm guessing they should be out to protect the bolt from crud, but I just wanted to make sure. I actually don't even remember if that gap between the links and the suspension arm should be there 
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Apr 13, 2014 19:07
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M42 posted:I've got a question about the dogbones. I just swapped in the stock ones and I can't remember how those gaskets on the bottom long bolt should look like (part 92049-1109). They can be pulled in towards the suspension arm or out towards the link - I'm guessing they should be out to protect the bolt from crud, but I just wanted to make sure. Check the microfiche...easiest way to tell. I'd offer more guidance but phone postin'.
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Apr 13, 2014 19:29
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Oops, I meant that everything is in the correct order/facing the right way, it's just that the seals slide a little on the bolt. From some pictures online it looks right, though.
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Apr 13, 2014 19:44
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Yeah a small amount of play in the suspension linkage is needed to allow for deflection.
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Apr 13, 2014 23:25
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My coolant level is smack dab on the low line in the overflow tank when the engine is cold. It's also at the same level when it's good and hot. I opened the fill cap and ran the engine a bit to see if there were bubbles, but there weren't. No leaks anywhere. Is this normal? I thought it had to be at the high line when hot.
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Apr 20, 2014 01:07
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Yeah that's pretty normal. I'd just bring it to the middle of the 2 lines and not worry about it.
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Apr 20, 2014 02:13
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Sweet, thanks! I was worried cause I did my first coolant change a few months back, thought I messed something up.
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Apr 20, 2014 02:35
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I've just bought my first bike, a 2010 Ninja 250, and I'm absolutely in love with it. Barely any insurance or fuel costs, and it sounds like a blender mating with a chainsaw. Best purchase I've ever made.
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Apr 24, 2014 23:59
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Grats on your first bike! That little sucker corners like nobody's business. After getting a 600 and a 1000 I still like scoot around on our 250 every now and then.
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Apr 25, 2014 00:14
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Yousomuscle posted:I've just bought my first bike, a 2010 Ninja 250, and I'm absolutely in love with it. Barely any insurance or fuel costs, and it sounds like a blender mating with a chainsaw. Best purchase I've ever made. ... Denny?
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Apr 25, 2014 00:17
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M42 posted:... Denny? HOW DID YOU FIND ME?
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Apr 25, 2014 01:30
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Hahaha, small world. Well, CA's definitely gonna be helpful for learning maintenance. There's at least a couple dudes here with newgens, too.
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Apr 25, 2014 02:01
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Anyone using heavier bar ends? I can't ride for more than an hour and a half without losing all feeling in my hands. Do they help much?
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May 29, 2014 16:16
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M42 posted:Anyone using heavier bar ends? I can't ride for more than an hour and a half without losing all feeling in my hands. Do they help much? I've never found that they have. I'd go with softer grips, I like Progrip 719s.
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May 29, 2014 16:19
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M42 posted:Anyone using heavier bar ends? I can't ride for more than an hour and a half without losing all feeling in my hands. Do they help much? Yeah, they help. But generally the solution is to loosen your grip as much as possible. Just enough contact to keep the throttle where you want it.
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May 29, 2014 22:03
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Dang, that's the first thing I tried and it doesn't seem to help much. I mean, the bike's hella buzzy anyway, it's backed out a few spec-torqued bolts all on its own already. Guess I'll try out the grips.
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May 30, 2014 03:23
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I got some Oxford Heaterz heated grips with a nice, thick grip surface. I also threw a Crampbuster on the throttle, which I adore. New grips and a Crampbuster are cheap things that are easy to try out without having to do a lot of wrenching.
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May 30, 2014 20:57
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May 31, 2014 15:13
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surprisingly not terrible looking. Of all the bikes that are stretched I think that is the least offensive one I've seen. Crummy job on that seat upholstery though.
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May 31, 2014 15:31
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I really like that green. The paint, not the horrible seat. Stretch makes me laugh.
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May 31, 2014 20:10
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| # ? May 21, 2024 15:02 |
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This is my first time going through the process of figuring out why my '04 250 isn't starting after winter so I've just got a couple of questions. Keep in mind that I have never worked on any automotive poo poo before. Also, the bike always did take a little to get started since I bought it from its second owner and I almost always had to start the bike with the choke on all the way. The starter cranks the engine but after 3-4 times of holding the starter for like 5 seconds I need to throw the battery on the charger again. Is this an indication that the battery needs to be replaced? I took off the tank (drained it too) and checked the plugs. From comparing them to pics online they look fine. I'll probably just replace them anyway since they're 2 bucks or whatever but here's a pic just to be sure.  I'm a little hesitant to try and clean the carbs since even after reading the guide on ninja250.org I'm still confused. I began by draining the float bowls and something I noticed when I did this was that next to nothing came out of one of the bowls and about 1oz came out of the other. I'm assuming this is bad and means I need to just suck it up and take the carbs off for a cleaning. If my bike starts using starter fluid this is definitely it then, yeah? punch drunk fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Jun 6, 2014 |
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Jun 6, 2014 21:22
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