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Blaster of Justice
Jan 6, 2007

by angerbot

Phy posted:

Not to rain on your parade, blugu, but from what I've read (not experience), it's better to put the DS tire on the front, and use a road tire on the back, if you're only doing one. That way the front is supposed to track accurately in the loose stuff, and the back end can do whatever it wants as long as it's vaguely pushing forward.

This is probably the worst advise ever provided and the most common misunderstanding. For all vehicles (cars, scooters, mopeds, bicycles, motorcycles and skateboards) friction between the asphalt and your rear tire(s) is way more important than the grip of your front (steering) tire(s). Please draw a vector force diagram to back up this stupid urban legend. I need a good laugh.

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Blaster of Justice
Jan 6, 2007

by angerbot

French Canadian posted:

Here's me being a cool kid. gently caress no passing rules in beginner groups. I got pissed at a 1098 who passed me in a corner (you weren't supposed to) and had to blow by him on the exit of the bowl at streets of willow. I am the best. Or something...



You ride with style, Sir. My respect.

(please teflon tape that knee)

Phy posted:

Blaster, you don't get a vector diagram because you didn't smile when you said please.

:) :)

Blaster of Justice fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Aug 9, 2009

Blaster of Justice
Jan 6, 2007

by angerbot

Nerobro posted:

Bikes get their stability from the front tire. The geometry of a bike (well any single track vehicle) depends on the front tire seeking to keep itself under the center of gravity on the bike. That hunting is what keeps the bike upright. It's not dependant on the wheels spinning, or anything else. If you lose traction with the front tire on a bike, you go down, because the bike can no longer apply forces to pick the bike up. End of story. Losing traction on the back wheel of a motorcycle is no big deal, as long as you regain traction gracefully the bike still tracks where you want it to. When you drive a vehicle that's statically stable, you want more traction out back (if you're got no skill...) because the lost traction failure mode is to go straight, instead of spinning out.

Friction between your front wheel and the road is no big deal. You can argument for hours, and I really don't want to pull the engineer card on you, but you'll lose.

Blaster of Justice
Jan 6, 2007

by angerbot

Nerobro posted:

Try me. The mechanism that keeps a bike upright are the forces the front wheel imparts to the chassis. It's not just friction. This is why when you lock up the front tire, a bike falls down, and why when you lock up the back tire, you skid to a stop.

I don't think you really understand automotive dynamics. Let's leave this as a statement vs. statement.

Blaster of Justice
Jan 6, 2007

by angerbot

tzam posted:


2: It gets much harder to smoothly shift from 1st-2nd when the bike is warmed up - commuting home from uni is fine until i get off the freeway, after which i do about 3-5 km on low speed surface streets. Clutch is adjusted properly, and the cable looks fine.

Did you adjust the clutch while the engine was hot? The plates expand when hot, and the clutch is likely to drag a bit if it was adjusted on a cold engine.

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Blaster of Justice
Jan 6, 2007

by angerbot

giundy posted:

I was a bit careless putting my front tire on and extended the piston out a little. I got the tire seated and tightened, started the bike and had to pump the front brake a few times. I was cautious and it seemed fine while practicing emergency stops, but should I bleed the brake anyway?

No reason to bleed it at all. You just pressed fluid back. The system weren't open and you didn't get air in, so there's none to bleed out.

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