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 Here is the 03 Ninja 250 (14k miles) I just bought yesterday for $1200, complete with ripped seat, leaking oil, and a Muzzy exhaust. This is my first bike and I haven't done much riding other than up and down my street and using my buddy's XR80 to learn on. If anyone has any tips (is leaking oil something I should be overly concerned about) for me they would be greatly appreciated. tbb9 fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 00:09
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 00:16 |
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 That's the newspaper under the bike after about 8 hours, I don't know how to describe the leak better than that.  But here is a picture I took the best I could of the underside of the bike, from this it appears to be leaking from what I assume is the drain plug, I guess (hope) that all things considered that's where I would want the bike to be leaking form.
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Jul 15, 2013 00:34
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Ok, first thing on the agenda was an oil change anyway but that might not happen till the end of the week. Are there any other common places I should check for a leak?
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Jul 15, 2013 02:25
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Thanks for everyone's help, I've enlisted a somewhat experienced friend to help me with all this over the weekend, oil change is first on the agenda. I'm also reading I should assume that valves and spark plugs have never been serviced, with all these miles this is also something I should check correct? And ninja250.org has already been a huge help with walk throughs.
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Jul 15, 2013 13:07
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Well I found out why the bike has a new chain on it and at least one place the bike is leaking oil. according to a friend who is helping me tear this thing apart this is fairly common and is one of the usual things you check when buying a bike, sure wish I had bought him with me. Any way I need a new one of these (stator?): http://compare.ebay.com/like/380673864568?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar Any way now I get to learn about working on motorcycles instead of learning about riding motorcycles, hooray. Also under all that oil we found some magnets stuck to the oil pan, I just hope that's not a forewarning of things to come. tbb9 fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 05:27
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Nope NJ where they're used to collect metal in the pan
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Jul 16, 2013 11:27
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I was told don't put the bike on either stand, just have it standing straight up on both tires, there should be two tick marks next to the oil window, keep the oil level between them
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Jul 25, 2013 16:28
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Who wants to play guess that noise... http://youtu.be/R-Hj7xrsLfc 03 ninja 15k miles
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Aug 11, 2013 23:30
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Valves have not been adjusted, I was going to try and wait until winter, I was hoping the chain tensioner would get brought up
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Aug 12, 2013 12:06
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A couple posts back I posted a video of my horrible valve tapping, after seeing whole motors online for sub $500 with half the miles of mine I'm wondering is it worth it to fix this problem or just throw in a "new" motor?
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Aug 14, 2013 16:05
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So I've decided to try and fix my current motor, and I might as well clean the carbs while its apart... gently caress this stock airbox, are there any aftermarket alternatives that don't require the entire bike to be taken apart to get to the carbs?
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Aug 20, 2013 16:23
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I've already got the head off the bike, had to stop because I had the wrong size shims, I'll clean the tensioner while I'm at it though. Also don't hate me for a dumb question but what are your guys crush washers made out of that go on your drain plug? I ordered the ones people mentioned in this thread and they're aluminum, there's no way they're gonna fit around the plug, the old one was plastic of some sort.
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Aug 24, 2013 14:25
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Its a 12mm washer, after trying what they sent me I just went to the auto parts store and bought a generic one
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Aug 24, 2013 16:44
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Ehhh, I'm on vacation till next week, I'll compare when I get back, I was trying to get all this work done before I left at 3am, drat shims Thanks for the help tbb9 fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Aug 24, 2013 |
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Aug 24, 2013 17:09
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Alright back from vacation, motorcycle fairy never came and the bike is still in pieces. Anyway here is a picture of the drain plug washers I have that don't seem to fit, the smaller one is branded Honda, for some reason that's what RonAyers.com sent me:   As you can see the washer doesn't fit, do I somehow have the wrong size drain plug? If so should I just take it to Home Depot and find an aluminum washer that will fit? Secondly while I wait for new shims to arrive I might as well clean off the cam chain tensioner, the walkthrough I found tells me to use brake cleaner for this, would WD40 be ok? Thirdly is this the spark plug tool that should have been included with my bike:  Thanks again for everyone's help Edit: Here's a better picture of the non Honda washer next to the drain plug and a penny: 
tbb9 fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Sep 2, 2013 |
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Sep 2, 2013 17:49
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Thanks, I ended up getting everything "done" last night and the bike sounds like complete rear end, looks like I'll be tearing it down and trying again. Also a socket fell of the wrench and all the way down to the bottom of the cam chain, that was fun to fish out......
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Sep 6, 2013 12:20
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Blew the motor, I really hosed up that valve adjustment.... Anyone have another laying around
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Sep 14, 2013 01:30
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ButtFaceMcCrackin posted:Any chance you can give us the gory details? Pics maybe? Sure...    So apparently one of the intake valves was WAY too tight on cylinder two, you can see the damage, thats a pretty impressive gouge the cam lobe left in the rocker arm... I've started looking for a new motor, the one you listed ended up only being an hour away from me, I called them last night and it had already sold, If another one turns up I told them to call me. In happier news I borrowed my buddy's 250 and went to the AMA race at New Jersey Motor Sports Park this weekend and got to Race some 12 year olds on 50s  Rode there in a group consisting of a 700cc Ducati and a couple of 1000cc cruisers it made the 250 feel pretty weak on the highway.
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Sep 19, 2013 00:55
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Found a new engine, picking it up on Tuesday. Everything is disconnected from the old engine except for the four large bolts that actually hold it to the frame and they're stuck pretty good, outside of air tools does anyone have any suggestions?
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Sep 28, 2013 17:03
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I coated the remaining bolts in pb blaster and let them sit overnight, hopefully that will soften them up. Going to pick up the new engine today, is there anything I should do besides spinning it by hand before putting down cash? How about anything after I purchase the engine before I put it back into the bike? Edit: forgot about one more thing, besides the 4 bolts at the rear of the engine the only other thing still connected is the wire going to the starter, should I just be able to pull this off like I was able to with the thermostat?
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Oct 1, 2013 12:26
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Picked up the new engine Tuesday and it makes me pretty nervous. Compression was checked at the salvage yard 120 per cylinder (low?), window for checking oil was smashed out and the oil that poured out was pretty milky, pulled the plugs and they were covered in oil (from compression test?). Anyway the motor has a 15 day warranty so were gonna try and get it in the bike this weekend and see how it runs, fingers crossed.
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Oct 3, 2013 12:17
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Started the new motor with no headers/air box, seemed to run nice and even. Problem now is I put the battery in reverse for literally a second and now the lights and stuff won't come on, bike seems completely dead, I found one blown fuse but is there anything else I should be looking for? Once again I'll finish a post saying "gently caress this air box"
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Oct 6, 2013 19:53
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It's not the fuse labeled 30 at the bottom of the fuse box, correct? That was it, thanks \/ \/ Hopefully we're almost done here tbb9 fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Oct 6, 2013 |
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Oct 6, 2013 20:35
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No updates lately because things have been going well. New motor is in and runs well, overall I'm pretty happy, this is the first time since I've had the bike it's not leaking oil. On nagging issue is that the gear shift doesn't alway seem to return to its "neutral" position (meaning flat instead of up or down like it would be during a gear change) it seems to be worse after shifting to second, the gear change stays up. Any ideas?
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Oct 14, 2013 17:26
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Wonderful, any idea how much trouble it's gonna be to get to it. I can't seem to find a walkthrough online.
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Oct 14, 2013 22:17
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For the most part it sticks on the upshift, I tried wd40ing everything down and it didn't seem to help. I didn't have much of a chance to mess with it yesterday but it looks like at least the water pump is going to have to come off which means draining coolant again...... At least I have a whole engine of spares.
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Oct 15, 2013 12:38
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Dear god, Haynes manual says I need to pull the clutch. This will never end
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Oct 17, 2013 23:47
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False alarm, apparently somehow I used a crush washer on the gear shift and that was causing it to bind. Bike is running great now, good times
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Oct 26, 2013 20:42
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Well now that the bike is mostly running well I'm without a project, has anyone swapped out the suspension with a ninja 500. Ninja250.org has conflicting reports, some say the suspension is softer that stock some say it's harder. I was wondering if anyone had personal experience
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Oct 31, 2013 16:40
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eBay, handlebars seem to be hard/expensive (comparatively) to find though.... Also glad you're ok tbb9 fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Dec 31, 2013 |
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Dec 31, 2013 15:09
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I've got pirellis on my bike and it's a huge improvement from riding my buddy's bike with stock tires
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Jan 9, 2014 03:23
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would me being bad at adjusting my chain tension cause my rear brake to drag?
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Mar 13, 2014 01:49
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So where should I start troubling this issue? If I were to jack up the rear, while the bike was running, and kick it into gear than back into neutral should the rear tire stay spinning for an extended period of time?
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Mar 13, 2014 02:08
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 00:16 |
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I think one might be for the bolt and one for the clamp?
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Sep 9, 2014 14:01
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