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Is it possible to bungee a set of tires to the back of a pregen 250? I need to get them and the bike down to the shop for a change, and I'd rather not have to enlist the help of a person with a car.
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Apr 17, 2013 23:07
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 00:38 |
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Gods above, I was skeptical it would work for someone my size but it does  They hula hoop around my torso if I lean the bike left/right though.
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Apr 18, 2013 03:08
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They're pirelli MT75s. I hear they're really good and their only problem is they have a shorter life because of how sticky they are. Cheap, too. e: do cops give a poo poo if you're riding around with your tires like that? M42 fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 19:02
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Officer, this is my crumple zone
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Apr 18, 2013 20:54
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Hahaha, I went for a short ride on my ninja 250 pregen a month ago, two blocks later the bike dies and I kill the battery trying to start it. Turns out I had the same "problem". 
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May 17, 2013 01:10
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Crosspost, but this fits here too. My itty bitty ninja two fiddy:   
M42 fucked around with this message at 01:38 on May 26, 2013 |
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May 26, 2013 01:30
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Does the competition werkes fender kit for the pregen require you to cut the rear segment of the stock fender, or does it replace the rear segment completely (including the curved wheelwell part)?
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Jun 3, 2013 23:50
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Holy poo poo, you guys. If you do anything to this bike, let it be switching out the oem headlight for something better. I couldn't see a fuckin thing with the old one, it faded away like 15 feet from the drat bike. Popped in a silverstar H4 today and I can could actually see poo poo at night. Wasn't anything wrong with the oem one, either. It's just crap.
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Jun 27, 2013 06:19
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This is the one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AM8BN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1372348522&sr=8-1&pi=SL75 Technically any h4 bulb should work, since h4 is a universal designation for motorcycle headlights. The wiki has a couple more name brands that are good, I just went with the first on the list. e: I didn't have anything better to do while drinking my coffee so I made a diagram, low beam before and after. The low on the new bulb is even better than the high on the old one, and the new high beam could probably power a solar cell. Replace ya frickin' bulbs 
M42 fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Jun 27, 2013 |
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Jun 27, 2013 16:59
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Naaaah. It's a little annoying to wiggle the front fairing on and off, but changing the bulb is an absolute breeze. However, take a look at your front turn signal connection to the wiring harness - you're gonna have to disconnect them to get the front fairing off. I have connectors you can pull apart, but some people might not. Since the front fairing has to come off for a lot of other work, I'd buy some of those connectors (you want 22-16 AWG .250") and change your splice to quick disconnect while you're in there. Both settings are brighter from the front than oem. I think it'll definitely help being visible at night. M42 fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jun 27, 2013 |
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Jun 27, 2013 23:35
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It is possible if you have incredibly tiny hands and a very small wrench/ratchet, but it's a huuuuge pain in the rear end and takes like 4 times as long that way. The little metal wire loop that holds the bulb in place is pretty hard to move when the light's off the bike, can't imagine how it would be if it was still under the fairing. Plus you'd get poo poo all over the bulb trying to maneuver it in, which'll cause hot spots and break it.
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Jun 27, 2013 23:48
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Well, I have incredibly small lady hands, and I couldn't do it 
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Jun 28, 2013 02:30
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Probably the latter!
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Jun 28, 2013 03:19
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Naw. Unless you mean the 4 screws holding the headlight assembly to the fairing stay, but those are the problem in the first place.
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Jun 28, 2013 07:47
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Engine mount bolts have to be done with a torque wrench, 24 ft/lb fyi. Don't just wail on em with a regular wrench, I think they can get hosed up that way. I rode around a little bit more with the new light. It's not quite as bright on the ground as car headlights cause you've only got one, but it's still waaaaay better than OEM.
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Jun 28, 2013 21:25
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M42 posted:Naw. Unless you mean the 4 screws holding the headlight assembly to the fairing stay, but those are the problem in the first place. I retract this statement! There actually is a removable fairing bit, it's on the inside "fold" of the front fairing. I don't know how I didn't see it before.
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Jun 30, 2013 01:27
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That depends, how well did the PO take care of it? What color is the oil/brake fluid?
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Jul 9, 2013 17:29
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Wrt ninja 500: look for models that are from 1995 onwards, the ones from 94 and before have a couple of lovely issues with the engine /transmission/flywheel that you really don't wanna have to deal with as a beginner.
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Jul 9, 2013 22:43
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My throttle grip feels a little loose, there's like 1/16th of a turn before it actually pulls on the throttle cable. Is that a cable problem or is my grip just slipping on the bar?
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Jul 10, 2013 06:04
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I only noticed it recently, but I'm enough of a dumb poo poo that it's probably been that way a while.
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Jul 10, 2013 06:07
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Haha, I was like 50/50 on it being completely normal OR being apocalyptically bad. Good to know!
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Jul 10, 2013 06:18
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You're right! I completely forgot about that test ride. Thanks for dispelling my  newbie worries, otherwise I would worry about every little thing until my second bike.
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Jul 10, 2013 07:24
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Real quick checklist for bike parts for your first oil change Get like 10 of these crush washers, this is the part that should be there instead of that lockwasher Get a couple of these filter plate bolt washers, seeing what how the PO treated that bike it'll probably be missing this thing (though it's not a huge deal) This air filter, cycle gear stores sell em complete with the rubber gaskets This paper gasket, you'll probably want to check and clean your oil screen while you're in there Obviously 5w40 or 10w40 oil, walmart sells the wiki's preferred Shell Rotella T6 per gallon for $21,  torque wrench , nitrile gloves, foil turkey pan, containers for old oil, etcOil change procedure page on the wiki Checking the oil screen My only tip is to bookmark the n250rc wiki, it's pretty great for people that have no experience with riding or working on bikes. M42 fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Jul 15, 2013 |
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Jul 15, 2013 04:54
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Do you live in CA? Magnets on the bottom of the bike are used to help trip those metal-sensitive traffic light sensors that a lot of california towns have.
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Jul 16, 2013 07:39
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The PO of my bike rode both the pre and newgen without too many problems (except for long trips) and he is a a huge dude, prob like 6'4". He did buy a hyosung 250 once he sold the ninja to me, says the size is really great for bigger people.
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Aug 13, 2013 12:12
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The correct ones look like this
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Aug 24, 2013 17:03
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The wiki's got a luggage page, might help you.
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Sep 23, 2013 17:10
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Coat em in penetrating lube and leave it overnight, then try it.
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Sep 28, 2013 17:28
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Milky oil is caused by condensation, mine was always like that after the morning dew. There's also a page on the wiki on how to replace the sight glass.
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Oct 3, 2013 14:36
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How much coolant do you need for a coolant change? The wiki doesn't mention it, wanna make sure I don't run out halfway through.
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Oct 22, 2013 21:04
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Sweet, thanks. In other news, check out this cafe kit for the 250 that actually looks decent imo, and I'm not even that crazy about cafes. It basically costs what a used ninja 250 goes for nowadays though   
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Oct 23, 2013 18:39
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Yeah, that's kind of a shame, I wish they sold the gauge housing on its own. Looks like you'd have to paint the fairings yourself, too.
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Oct 23, 2013 19:50
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E: Never mind, I figured it out. 
M42 fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Oct 28, 2013 |
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Oct 28, 2013 21:14
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What part of the handlebar? The whole assembly is pretty expensive, yes. Good to hear you're relatively unscathed, though!
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Dec 31, 2013 16:44
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Anyone have a writeup on how to swap the dogbones on the pregen? Mine came lowered, and I wanna switch it back to stock. The wiki doesn't seem to have any articles on how to do it. I'm such a fuckin idiot though. My bike's always been real tippy on the sidestand and I could never figure out why. It took almost a year to realize that while the bike's been lowered, the sidestand is still the stock length.  Holy poo poo, how do I even have the brain power to breathe and blink at the same time.
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Jan 31, 2014 17:09
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Oh sweet, that's a lot simpler than I thought. Thanks!
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Jan 31, 2014 18:26
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Nah, the PO thankfully kept them.
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Jan 31, 2014 20:10
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I think that's just the fairing bolts that can punch through the tank. The bolts that hold the petcock in place are just two regular nut and bolt thingies that go through pre-existing holes. Also yes, there is a gasket. Here's a pic of mine I took cause there was a tiny ant. You can see the bolt holes on either side and the gasket itself. Unfortunately, not much way to tell what's wrong unless you take it apart... 
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Mar 20, 2014 22:29
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Just drain your tank and remove the petcock to see what's up, I'm not sure why you think drilling's required  Generally you drill if your bolt is stuck, not if it's spinning freely
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Mar 21, 2014 16:44
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 00:38 |
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Oh, I get it now. Have you tried pulling the bolt itself with locking vice grips or anything? Can't imagine what's going on with the threads if it spins but won't come out at all, yikes.
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Mar 21, 2014 16:53
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