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Blaster of Justice posted:This is probably the worst advise ever provided and the most common misunderstanding. For all vehicles (cars, scooters, mopeds, bicycles, motorcycles and skateboards) friction between the asphalt and your rear tire(s) is way more important than the grip of your front (steering) tire(s). Please draw a vector force diagram to back up this stupid urban legend. I need a good laugh. Bikes get their stability from the front tire. The geometry of a bike (well any single track vehicle) depends on the front tire seeking to keep itself under the center of gravity on the bike. That hunting is what keeps the bike upright. It's not dependant on the wheels spinning, or anything else. If you lose traction with the front tire on a bike, you go down, because the bike can no longer apply forces to pick the bike up. End of story. Losing traction on the back wheel of a motorcycle is no big deal, as long as you regain traction gracefully the bike still tracks where you want it to. When you drive a vehicle that's statically stable, you want more traction out back (if you're got no skill...) because the lost traction failure mode is to go straight, instead of spinning out.
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Aug 9, 2009 11:12
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 03:14 |
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Blaster of Justice posted:Friction between your front wheel and the road is no big deal. You can argument for hours, and I really don't want to pull the engineer card on you, but you'll lose. Try me. The mechanism that keeps a bike upright are the forces the front wheel imparts to the chassis. It's not just friction. This is why when you lock up the front tire, a bike falls down, and why when you lock up the back tire, you skid to a stop.
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Aug 9, 2009 14:35
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Blaster of Justice posted:I don't think you really understand automotive dynamics. Let's leave this as a statement vs. statement. I really think I do. You keep saying things that are monumentally stupid around here. It's really starting to bug me. You're right about half the time, and when you're right, you're really right, but you sit and defend yourself vehemently when you're wrong. You have the "I've been riding for 40 years and I can't be wrong" biker vibe.
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Aug 9, 2009 21:53
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NoCleverName posted:How long does it take your Ninjettes to warm up? I don't know if I'm being impatient with the warmup time, but the first time I ride my bike after it's cooled down, it takes forever to actually get going. Letting off the clutch as slow as I can stalls the bike. Giving throttle while I'm letting off the clutch stalls the bike. Eventually I can get it going and then it will behave better from that point onwards, but that initial start is always a bitch. I had to move it today, and it took probably 10 minutes until it would move without stalling. This was several minutes after it no longer required choke to idle. "cold blooded" bikes mean "I have dirty pilot circuits" not anything inherant in the bike.
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Aug 14, 2009 06:19
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SS lines do not change the amount of force needed to brake the bike. Bleeding the brakes doesn't help that either. bleeding affects brake fade. Pads affect bite, and feel, and fade. If you want more stopping power, you should consider a second disk :-)
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Aug 21, 2009 04:15
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 03:14 |
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Gravel really isn't a problem period. sport tires work well on it.
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Sep 3, 2009 22:39
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