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Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Whenever I'm using my 350D to shoot outdoors, the skies seem to be blown out. Now I've figured that this is because of the metering mode. My question is, what metering mode should I use? Or should I just manually increase the shutter speed from what it recommends?
Will a different metering mode give me nicer skies?

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Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Cheers guys :)

Also, if I'm shooting cars, should I shoot in jpg to keep the frame rate up nicely?
Obviously raw is more processable right?? But will I still be able to adjust the jpgs enough to be good?

I've never really paid attention before, but I'm trying to take this a bit more seriously now :)

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Hmmm, I guess I will just shoot raw then, I'm somewhat worried about only having 6GB of storage for a 5 day trip in raw though. I guess I'll just have to watch my shots more. Thanks man! :)

E: Also I used to be afraid of raw because I didn't have anything to preview well with, but now I have lightroom! So hopefully that will help :)

Bape Culture fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Aug 23, 2009

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Just tested it in my camera and I can do bursts of 6 anyway, so that's not a problem. I thought I was going to be limited to 1 or 2 :)

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Sack it, just picked up another 4GB card.
So now I have 10GB total. Should be enough.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

drat, I paid £15 for a 4GB and thought that was good!

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

TokenBrit posted:

Don't just stick a photo in a frame.

Get it matted and mounted. You might not know the difference now, but go to a gallery and have a look at correctly presented prints. Well worth it for photos you care about.

What is this process exactly?

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

I really don't get how he's done some of them if I'm understanding it right.
It's a ton of photos stitched together, but how in the people ones haven't they moved??

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Couldn't you just bluff it in photoshop?

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

How do you shoot images in a nightclub that look 'cool' and not necessarily photographically great? Is it just, use the flash, open the shutter for a while and then move the camera around a bit once the flash has fired to get light trails and poo poo?

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Sweet cheers guys :)

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

I went and shot a track day yesterday with my new 70-200mm, because I love the DOF, I kept it in F4, but now I'm not happy with my images as there is no sense of speed. Is there a way to keep my wide aperture, but force a shutter slow down without blowing everything out? I was thinking there's probably some sort of filter or something? But am not at all sure.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Fantastic, cheers!
And yeah I was already at 100, sorry I forgot to mention that.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

torgeaux posted:

What body? That's the only point of having ISO 50 on some bodies.

It's just a 350D. So ISO 100 is the lowest unfortunately :(

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

What's the name of that black border you get around photos that is sorta circular?
I totally know what it is but I can't think of the word and it's driving me mental.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Paragon8 posted:

vignette

You are the best! :buddy:

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

What's the best way to shoot into the sun and maintain a decent foreground?
Super tiny aperture + Polarizer?

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Thanks guys. I guess I'll grab a ND filter. Can you get graduated ones in different strengths or do you just add them as you need?

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

If you guys were shooting pictures in a garage with the door open would you spot meter and just accept the door being totally blown out?

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Ah yeah. I've not actually used bracketing on my 7D yet. I'll give it a go. I'll have to shoot from somewhere fixed then.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

No flashes to put in anything like that atm and no $$$ to get a lighting setup.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

How do you get 10 weeks off work? Sounds awesome. Also id take a 70-200 f4. Not really big and still a great lens.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Since you'll be shooting during the day and doing some panning you won't need a particularly quick lens for it. Just decide how close you want to be and go from there. I shoot a bunch of circuit stuff and if I can get close I just use my tamron 17-50 which seems ideal. If further out then 70-200 all the way.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

You don't need IS. But I'm pretty sure one of the modes (On some L glass anyway) is for panning and similar. So you may as well use it I guess.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Who has the gall to even do that. loving hell.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

I use irfanview to batch resize. Handles 50mb or whatever the gently caress RAWs so should eat 10mb jpegs all day.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

GWBBQ posted:

Wide angles make cars look cooler. The 17-50 is a good car show lens.

Only true to some extent. I was loving around at 8mm and everything just got gash.

I like stuff shot at like 85mm with a massive aperture and small DOF.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

What the hell white balance should I be using for streetlights and dusk? I've tried all of them and none of them look right :stare:

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

So I can't fix these ones I already took? gently caress.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

I was shooting moving objects though. Guess I'll just go black and white. Cameras are stupid.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Pretty sure there'll be a lightroom filter out there that does almost exactly what you want.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

How do you guys like narrow down your photos?
Say I take 1000 photos in a day and want to use about 30. What's the process?
At the moment I find myself going through them about 100 times and then missing some nice ones. I don't want to delete any, just kinda narrow stuff down.
This is in LR3.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

poopinmymouth posted:

First time through, rate anything of any interest whatsoever a 1, then sort by rating so only the 1s show. Then go in and post process, using sync settings on the similar shots. Go back through and normally the proper processing will make evident which ones are better, and I rate them 2s. If there are 4-5 of similar type, I'll force myself to choose only the best 1. If there are still too many, I'll grab a cup of coffee, come back, and make myself look for weak 2s, and downgrade them to 1s. If it's loving fantastic portfolio work, I grade it as a 5.

That's genius. How do I apply the same develop settings across a bunch of photos? I've been doing it individually until now. Thanks man.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Thanks guys. Y'all are great :D

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

How do you shoot moving objects at night with a flash?
I was shooting some drifting, and the flash froze the wheels and car in place when it fired.
As you can imagine this sucks mega balls.
What are you supposed to do to keep motion?

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Well that sucks. Yeah I was using it on the second curtain. Just sucks.
It was too dark to not use flash really.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

I shot at like 1/20th with an aperture of about 2.5 and a 1/4 power 580.
Everything looks crappy crap.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Not sure, it wasn't mine so I was glad I worked out how to get second shutter firing tbh.

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

I have an absolutely retarded question:

Is it possible to go past infinity focus?
I had a go at shooting some stars last night, so turned the focus ring on my sigma 30mm to the maximum distance. What I ended up with was bokeh stars. So I would it back a touch and it got much better. That seems really really silly?

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Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006

Disregard. Sorry.

Bape Culture fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Sep 17, 2011

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