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Fantastic thread title  Speaking of ISO, would shooting in B&W do anything to help sharpen up pictures in higher ISOs like 800 and 1600?
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Aug 11, 2009 04:30
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As regards photography books, what's the general concensus on Tom Ang's work?
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Aug 28, 2009 14:44
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thumbsmcgraw posted:What's the tradeoff (I'm assuming there is one) of using higher ISO values in your pictures? I've been trying to get faster shutter speeds by upping the ISO to compensate for a lack of tripod in certain shots, and I'm wondering if I handicapped my image quality in any way. Others have answered already, but this will also depend a bit on what camera you use as well. I love my Olympus E-410 but if there's a complaint to have, it's the high ISO performance. 800 is a pain and 1600 lands in "don't even bother" territory. EDIT: That said, there are areas where people will expect to see noise. Indoor shots, sports under bad lighting (i.e. hockey  ), darker shots... It will annoy you probably as much as it does me, but sharp and noisy is always better than a blur with a lack of noise.
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Aug 30, 2009 20:18
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psylent posted:Are there any "must read" books about composition I should read? My birthday is coming up and people are asking for gift ideas. The Photographer's Eye seems to be pretty well recommended.
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Sep 24, 2009 15:24
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crono930 posted:How are these two items for sensor cleaning? I've never heard a bad word about the rocket. I'd be a little iffy about something physical touching my sensor (i.e. that brush), but that's just me.
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Sep 28, 2009 06:04
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Shmoogy posted:http://www.gadling.com/2009/12/26/b...ontent=Netvibes I'm flying from Detroit Metro to Boston Logan on Thursday and taking my gear. DTW security is going to be on loving lockdown. I'll let y'all know how it went when I get in.
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Dec 28, 2009 17:41
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helstegt posted:Is there any chance that the method I have outlined above would give me a better poster print than just enlarging a screenshot directly from the DVD? You might make it just about equal to the quality of a DVD rip, but there's pretty much no way even the nicest camera will get a better picture through your (admittedly neat) idea. If I can ask, what's the movie? Odds are there are hi-res captures available somewhere.
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Dec 29, 2009 03:10
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DJExile posted:I'm flying from Detroit Metro to Boston Logan on Thursday and taking my gear. DTW security is going to be on loving lockdown. I'll let y'all know how it went when I get in. Well I'll be damned. I cruised through DTW and Logan security without so much as a "can I look at your bag, sir?" in either case. Color me shocked.
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Jan 4, 2010 02:15
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spog posted:Perhaps they realised that if the bad guys were using exploding underpants, there's not much point in making a big deal about carried bags. Entirely too sensible for them. Also for the curious, the bag I just got for it (Lowepro Computrekker AW) was loving fantastic on the trip.
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Jan 4, 2010 04:28
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Reggie Died posted:Is there a reason that the "photoshop tips and tricks" thread was closed after half a page? I'm really clueless when it comes to post-processing (well...I'm pretty clueless when it comes to alot about photography). I'm basically in the same boat as you, and found GIMP really easy to use (and it's free, so hey  ), since there's a couple quick-n-dirty options like AUTO W/B, Color Balance, Brightness, etc. It can't open RAW files, unfortunately, but that's kind of hard to argue with when it's saved a lot of my hockey photos with piss-yellow tint.
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Jan 8, 2010 16:50
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HPL posted:If you can ever scrape some money together, Photoshop Elements is really good. It's way faster and easier to use than GIMP and it has more features. Oh , wow that's cheaper than I thought. I'll have to look into it. Thanks! 
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Jan 8, 2010 17:05
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FasterThanLight posted:I've never used this with Windows, but you could try UFRaw for working with RAW files in GIMP. HPL posted:It's what I use. The downside of Elements is that it can only do some functions in 8-bit mode. Not a huge restriction though. You just do as much work as you can in 16-bit mode before converting to 8-bit and finishing it off. For most basic photo editing functions it'll be more than enough and you'll never look back at GIMP again. Every time I use GIMP nowadays, it's like nails on a chalkboard. Y'all rule. I'll give the UFRaw a try and see about Elements. Just found out a friend has it so I'll give Elements a try and see how I like both. Thanks a ton!
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Jan 8, 2010 17:49
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Shmoogy posted:The tablet will have Wifi (and possibly, but not likely a GSM radio for 3g~ connection). The WiFi SD cards don't work with RAW images, so it would only send the JPGs to the tablet*. I'd imagine sending RAW and big jpgs through any kind of wireless connection to a tablet would take a long-rear end time too. At that point you're probably better off just hooking up a cable or card-reader, if the tablet has a USB port. I'd have to imagine it does.
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Jan 26, 2010 20:32
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Munkaboo posted:Is there a way to post a set in flickr where I only want people to see that set and nothing else? Besides setting the privacy settings to Only Friends/family? Don't think so, unless you started a new Flickr account.
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Feb 2, 2010 19:12
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XTimmy posted:I need something I can take with me outdoors I just came across some company that makes these really handy sort of turn-wheel charts and for the life of me I can't remember where it was or who it was. I'll try to find it. Edit: Fuckin' bingo. I don't know how good they are or if anyone's tried them, but they seem like a great idea. DJExile fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Feb 4, 2010 |
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Feb 4, 2010 16:56
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XTimmy posted:Thanks What kind of phone do you have? I think there are some DOF calculator apps available out there. Heck, I'm pretty certain you can access the one spog linked from any browser.
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Feb 4, 2010 17:22
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Is there any kind of a universal monopod attachment/head that could function as that ring that allows a lens to be rotated like those seen on larger telephotos? I have an Oly 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 and for some of my longer sports shooting, stability on the long end would be really nice for shooting vertically.
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Feb 8, 2010 17:35
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HPL posted:It wouldn't work unless there's an actual attachment point for the ring on the lens itself. You could always use a ball head for switching between landscape and portrait. True, thanks!
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Feb 8, 2010 18:12
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Ration posted:Would it be possible to get a centralized reference for quality books? Perhaps added to the FAQ? I understand that there are links and what not of stuff to read online, and that is great, but I would like to have some books to reference when I'm not on the computer. A great overall starter is Understanding Exposure, Bryan Peterson knows his poo poo really well, but can come across as a little dickish at times. It's still a very good read. Tom Ang's How to Photograph Absolutely Anything was fantastic for me when I started out as well. Both give a lot of good little rules of thumb to keep in mind (shooting f/8 to f/11 to grab just about anything, when to use fill flash, shooting motion with slow shutter & panning, etc).
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Feb 17, 2010 14:26
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DevNull posted:I am going to be at a car show this Sunday in SF and plan on taking my new 5D. It will be in a big parking garage, so probably not the best lighting. Does anyone have any advice for car photography? I am guessing that lighting will be fun with all sorts of reflections on polished cars. Best I can advise after going to this year's Detroit Auto Show: Take a fast, somewhat wide (Around 25mm) lens with you and be patient. People will be everywhere and using anything longer might make you have to step back to the point where there will always be people walking in front of you. People do also seem to have a habit of getting their grubby fingerprints and hand prints all over the paint too, which doesn't do anything to help  .
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Feb 24, 2010 15:26
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Dumbass rookie question here: When I want shots of interiors, landscapes, etc. Where exactly does the line sit between small aperture and focus point? Would I want to focus on something close by in the room/area and re-compose to the shot I want, or do I just want a small aperture and MF to infinity?
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Nov 17, 2010 15:13
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OK I should elaborate, since I don't know what the hell is going on between the following: 1: Focus on something close, have a small aperture for huge DOF 2: Small aperture for huge DOF, but just compose how I want it and MF at infinity. What exactly would focusing all the way there (or as close to it as possible) do differently?
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Nov 17, 2010 19:34
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torgeaux posted:Focusing at infinity means that near objects will almost definitely be out of focus. If doing it off the cuff, focus in front of item you want to be center of attention, and let the DOF extend thru that point and beyond. Smaller aperture makes for more forgiving guesses. Gotcha, thanks 
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Nov 17, 2010 20:00
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I got into a rut with some hockey shooting and forced myself during one game to only use my 7-14mm and I think my 35mm f/3.5 macro. Basically use typically inappropriate lenses or gear for the situation and see what you can make of it. On the other side of it, jump head first into shooting something totally different. I'll give myself a good kick in the rear end by going to shoot at the botanical gardens or the zoo. Or just some goof-around portraits with friends. It's a good fresh breath of air. I'm going on a trip to Scotland and Ireland in 2 weeks and forced myself not to take my 50-200 or 35-100, which are on my E-5 almost 90% of the time. My film camera is going and I'm setting my schedule to only take that with me a couple days as well so I can get back into thinking my shots through. CarrotFlowers, you take some drat good shots, worlds better than mine. I'm sure you'll get it clicking again. DJExile fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Aug 8, 2012 |
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Aug 8, 2012 16:35
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Edmond Dantes posted:I was about to order these two books from amazon: Speedliter's Handbook and The Creative Digital Darkroom. If you like using flashes, The Hotshoe Diaries is fantastic.
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Aug 10, 2012 18:33
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QPZIL posted:So I love scanning color film because the results are awesome, but I hate scanning color film because I'm terrible at getting colors right. Shoot B&W 
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Aug 14, 2012 20:03
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Prathm posted:Not to mention that the s90/95 is kind of a battery-glutton. This is one of the things I really love about the G12. The battery is enormous for a P&S and lasts like forever.
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Sep 24, 2012 13:57
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8th-snype posted:EVERY MORNING I WAKE UP AND OPEN PALM A BID INTO MY EBAY SNYPER. IT'S JUST GOOD BUSINESS AND RIGHT THEN AND THERE I START MAKING FAT STACKS ALONGSIDE WITH THE MAIN CHARACTER, JIMLAD. I SNYPE THEM AUCTIONS AND I SNYPE THEM AUCTIONS HARD. MAKIN WHOOSHING SOUNDS WHEN I WIN A USED REALDOLL OR EVEN WHEN I MESS UP TECHNIQUE. NOT MANY CAN SAY THEY ESCAPED THE GALAXYS MOST DANGEROUS BIDDING WAR. I CAN. I SAY IT AND I SAY IT OUTLOUD EVERYDAY TO PEOPLE IN MY COLLEGE CLASS AND ALL THEY DO IS PROVE PEOPLE IN COLLEGE CLASS CAN STILL BE IMMATURE JEKRS. AND IVE LEARNED ALL THE LINES OF THE EBAY EULA AND IVE LEARNED HOW TO MAKE MYSELF AND MY APARTMENT LESS LONELY BY SHOUTING EM ALL. 2 HOURS INCLUDING WIND DOWN EVERY MORNIng
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May 3, 2016 16:09
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EL BROMANCE posted:In related query, does anyone know if it's possible to get a replacement lens hood? Mine had been previously broken and glued together, and I think the heat here has separated the glue as its split back open. I don't think it's a major issue as I attach it with that side pointing to the floor, but it'd be nice to rule out a stray reflection hitting the glass. Poke around amazon. There are usually a few 3rd party hoods kicking around for almost any lens these days. E: You can also search for hoods by size of the front element sometimes.
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May 11, 2016 18:11
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Caryna posted:Question time: usually I'm a headshot/portrait/macro photographer, but I'm having the opportunity to tag along with a friend who's taking a horse stunt riding class to take "action" photos for her and the instructors. My gear is a Nikon D750 body and the standard lenses one would use for my usual field. Any suggestions/recommendations what to look out for? Maybe a specific lens to rent for the day? What kind of longer lenses do you have? and is the riding going to be outdoors or in one of those indoor arenas/halls?
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May 12, 2016 19:47
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Yeah a 70-200 is pretty standard stuff for weddings. E: Being all the way back in the church might be a bit odd unless you're getting some wide, all-encompassing picture with a wider lens, or shooting the party for the processional/recessional, but yeah lenses like a 70-200 are great for them.
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May 13, 2016 20:25
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Xabi posted:The original mercury batteries for the OM-1 aren't made anymore, but you can still use modern 1.5V substitutes. The voltage from these modern batteries apparently drain gradually -unlike the mercury batteries - and some people are therefore afraid that the metering can't be trusted. I've never had a problem and if you're worried you can just replace it regularly. Yeah I've used modern batteries in my OM1 for years now and they've been great.
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May 30, 2016 12:42
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Yeah that took me a second too 
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Jun 6, 2016 21:56
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Yeah a "WB filter" like that is just like the UV filters, purely there for the stores to make a few extra bucks on people who don't know any better
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Jun 27, 2016 17:50
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Caryna posted:Erm, no it's not? It's not an actual filter as such. You put it on for the first shot and use that shot for your white balance settings. Then you take it off. It's just another way to obtain a grey balance reference photo (for situations where you can't use a grey card or such). The ExpoDisc is actually rather nifty. Well I'll shut up then. They always struck me as gimmicky, but I suppose the more I think about it the more I can see where they'd need to be used. 
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Jun 27, 2016 18:28
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Infinite Karma posted:I'm headed to the South next week where it's humid as hell. I've never shot in that kind of environment... is there anything special to worry about, in that weather? Or any gear to help with avoiding condensation? Outdoors you'll be fine, but if you go right from there into an air-conditioned setting (house, car, etc) you may want to wrap the camera in a shirt or if it's small enough drop it in a plastic bag, but you should be fine on the whole.
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Jun 27, 2016 19:42
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Annath posted:So I looked over the camera. It should still run just fine for you, I wouldn't worry too much about where it was made. You may want to keep a small notebook (or just on a phone app) of what shutter speeds and apertures you're using on your shots to keep track of that, but for now I'd just run a basic roll of film through it and make sure it's functioning as it should, no light leaks, etc.
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Jul 19, 2016 17:06
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Popelmon posted:I'm looking for a 35mm-ish equivalent lens to adapt with my E-M10. Are there any good (and cheap-ish) M42 lenses around 16-18mm worth looking into? I guess I could also pick up a FD adapter if there are any decent lenses in that range in that system. OM mount has a 21mm f/3.5 that would adapt easily, but yeah if you want to keep it inexpensive I'd snag a used or refurb m4/3 17mm.
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Jul 27, 2016 00:01
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oh man, yeah I totally forgot about Samyang. Those are absolutely worth looking at
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Jul 28, 2016 03:44
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 23:59 |
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You can solve that problem by never reading cracked.
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Jul 31, 2016 14:15
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