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On my xsi, if you set it to 2 second delay while AEB is on, it'll automatically take all 3 back to back to back. If you just have it on continuous shooting, you'll have to click the shutter 3 times manually which of course could cause shaking issues.
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Aug 29, 2009 17:26
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americanframe.com seems to be a popular choice for all things custom when it comes to framing.
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Sep 3, 2009 11:25
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I think the best way to get better as a photographer is shoot more (obviously) but then post your pics and get critiques. Also looking at a ton of other peoples pictures and thinking about why you like them and reading other peoples' critiques and why they like or dislike those shots really helps me be more creative and get stuff I'm happier with.
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Sep 18, 2009 20:04
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Here's a heads up: the sun sets pretty much due west tonight giving you the opportunity to mimic Manhattanhenge in your nearest metropolitan area (assuming it is built on an N/S grid).
spf3million fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Sep 22, 2009 |
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Sep 22, 2009 21:39
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spf3million posted:Here's a heads up: the sun sets pretty much due west tonight  
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Sep 23, 2009 01:54
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A5H posted:I really don't get how he's done some of them if I'm understanding it right.
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Sep 27, 2009 13:41
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It sounds straight forward enough. Shoot wide open, manually focus on the subject (or use auto then click over to manual), then take a ton of shots to completely cover the subject as you would with a panorama. This lets you use a longer focal length so you get the smaller DoF but you don't have to be really far back from the subject.
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Sep 27, 2009 17:27
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There are some pretty awesome free auto stich programs out there in case you'd rather not do it yourself.
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Sep 28, 2009 21:58
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dunno posted:I mean, if this process requires them to stand absolutely still for 30 seconds, there are other options, and they're less expensive than you think...
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Sep 30, 2009 11:25
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jackpot posted:If there's a better thread for this, let me know.
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Nov 24, 2009 02:21
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Ric posted:a torch 
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Dec 5, 2009 14:19
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It's not so much the temperature difference but the humidity of the warmer air that should be of concern. If the cold environment's temperature is below the dew point of the warmer environment, the cold camera will quickly cool down the warm air around it making it able to hold less water as vapor forcing water to condense  That being said, you probably don't have access to the dew point of your house but if it's generally dry and it's mild year round, you probably never have to worry about it. If it drops to near freezing, better to be safe than sorry. You also have to worry if you keep your house cold in the summer w/ AC then take your camera outside when it's muggy. This happened to me in Florida once.
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Dec 19, 2009 10:06
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I think it really depends on how much importance you put on the photography part of your trip. If you just want pics to remember the trip by, then go for a new p&s. There are some pretty good cameras out there for under $250 (assuming you'll have decent light). If you want "a lot of album-worthy photos" only you know what will meet your standards of album-worthiness. I will say that you probably won't find a lens that will blow away your kit lens for <$250. No one can make the decision for you on how big of a camera to take. I personally have a nice p&s when I just want memento pics and a dslr for when I know I'll have time for taking pictures at my own pace.
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Dec 22, 2009 12:51
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If it were me, I'd go khakis and a polo but I've never been to an inauguration.
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Jan 16, 2010 04:21
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I used Bridge because I didn't know any better and eventually came up with a good work flow that worked for me. Just as I got used to Bridge I made the switch to Light Room and it took a while to get used to it but now it's way better. The difference with LR is that it creates a separate file with all of your edits and saves that automatically. Then you have to export the photo you made with the edits applied as opposed to Bridge where I saved one copy of the original, edited it, saved a new copy as a .tiff then then save as a jpeg to upload to flickr. Now I just make small edits in LR, export as jpeg and still have the original RAW, the edits (saved as a small basically text doc) and the jpeg for export. Either way works, just whatever you prefer I suppose. e: your avatar made me laugh (ohio state alum)
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Feb 7, 2010 05:04
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EvilRic posted:DSLR cameras have a crop/zoom factor based on the size of the sensor, so it's fixed at 1.6x for most Canon bodies until you get to the full frame ones like the 5D. It basically just means if you put a 10mm lens for a full frame camera on a 1.6 body it will act like a 16mm lens.
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Feb 19, 2010 10:47
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The only thing I've found that I like is carrying it in my hand with a wrist strap. Otherwise, it's in the backpack. I've tried a few around the neck, straps crossing behind the back and hanging in front methods and it just bounces around too much. I've yet to try attaching it to a monopod/walking stick and hiking with it on the stick which I've heard of some people doing...
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Mar 6, 2010 00:06
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Depends on the temperature and humidity in the warmer environment and the temperature in the cold environment. If the colder temperature is below the dew point of the warmer room, water will condense out of the air into liquid on the surfaces when the water in the air comes into contact with the cold surface (at least that's how I understand it). I don't know any rules of thumb though. If your house it relatively dry and around 70F, I'd say you'd probably be fine coming inside when it's >40F (huge guess). If there is snow on the ground, I personally put my camera in a bag and squeeze out all the air while it warms up. FYI, I had a lens fog up when I stepped outside in Florida out of the air conditioned hotel room, so it works both ways. e: found this link http://www.dpcalc.org/. Move the red bar to your house temperature, then change the %RH (the relative humidity inside your house) to see its affect on the dew point (the temperature it has to be outside to get condensation when brought back inside). Granted, your lens has to be outside long enough to get to that outside temperature, so a quick in and out, you might be ok. spf3million fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Mar 6, 2010 |
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Mar 6, 2010 08:31
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torgeaux posted:When going from dry cold to warm moist, while in the cool area, put the camera in a plastic bag (preferably sealed, like a gallon ziplock, and let it come up to temperature in the bag.
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Mar 6, 2010 14:12
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I always strap it to the side by feeding one leg through the side strap and putting all 3 legs in the water bottle pocket while tightening the side strap as much as possible then. I try to balance it out weight-wise by having a big water bottle on the other side. Backpacking and dslrs are not very compatible unfortunately.
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Mar 23, 2010 06:24
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pwn posted:I stopped using Phorumr when I found this one: allSizes
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May 18, 2010 23:32
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Did you accidentally change the in-camera noise reduction settings?
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Jul 13, 2010 05:52
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If it's clear, it's most likely a lowly UV filter.
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Aug 27, 2010 13:28
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Jolan posted:Didn't see a FujiFilm thread so I thought I'd post in here.
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Sep 28, 2010 01:54
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HPL posted:I just tried out the trial version of DxO FilmPack. So. loving. Good. I probably shoot more black and white film than anyone else here and I can say that FilmPack gives you dead-on film looks and you can even adjust the grain qualities to match different film formats like if it were on 35mm, medium format or large format. I can't speak with as much authority on color negative and slide, but it does a damned good job of matching what I'm familiar with including Kodachrome.
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Oct 16, 2010 12:25
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:I actually want to do 3D HDR animated gifs, its gunna b awsum.
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Oct 29, 2010 03:03
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Any chance he'd rather get back into film? You can get a much bigger bang for your buck with a 1990's film camera body. If he had a professional film body back in the day, an XS will be a significant step down in terms of camera body features and the kit lens that comes with it will also be considerably worse.
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Nov 4, 2010 06:15
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stimpy posted:He may, but he doesn't have access to a darkroom or anything anymore, and he always developed his own film and such. But like I mentioned above, he's pretty big into computers and stuff now, so I don't think that would be an impediment to him. It may be preferable, really. I'm not especially looking to match what he had, because my mom said she thought his main camera (the Canon) cost around $700 - $800, and this would have been in the mid to late 70s. I'm sure if I wanted to match that, I'd be into the multiple thousands now. I'm basically looking for something to kind of get him back into it a bit, and if he gets the bug again he can upgrade either the camera itself or get some additional lenses for it. Ok that's the last I'll say about film. I'm sure he will love whatever you decide to get him 
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Nov 4, 2010 07:35
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Ballistic Photon posted:Can anyone explain to me the reasoning behind covering your gear in black tape?
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Nov 7, 2010 13:34
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*Yeah, the aperture will be controlled by the camera when the switch is at the colored number (not always f/22). It took me forever to figure this out when I played with my friend's Nikon. *Disclaimer, also Canon user.
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Nov 29, 2010 20:23
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Depends entirely on the humidity of the warmer environment. Assuming you keep your house at 70F and the indoor relative humidity is 30% (probably lower in the winter but let's be conservative) then any surface below 37.5F will cause dew to form in the presence of air. So if you bring your camera in from outside and it was 35F, then theoretically you would have some condensation. Indoor humidities in the winter are usually lower, so if it were 20% humidity inside, you could be fine with anything above 27.5F. At least that's how I understand it. Here's the chart I used: http://epg.modot.mo.gov/files/c/c7/Table_106.7.38.4.gif The reason you are safer when you put it in a bag is that by squeezing most of the air out (and putting it in the bag while still outside) you are reducing the amount of available water in the air so even if it all condenses it will be a small amount as opposed to leaving it open in the warm room where there is an infinite availability of water condense on your camera. spf3million fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Nov 30, 2010 |
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Nov 30, 2010 20:19
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Agreed, you obviously don't need to carry a chart around with you, just used examples for the sake of understanding. To answer the original question, you'd probably be fine @30-40F. Anything colder might be borderline.
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Nov 30, 2010 21:09
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poopinmymouth posted:you have to have enough knowledge to make those alterations in a believable way, which takes way more perspective, color, volume, anatomy, cloth wrinkle, and compositional knowledge than lifting a framing device to your eye and pressing a button at the right moment.
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Dec 6, 2010 21:27
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ExecuDork posted:
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Jan 7, 2011 08:12
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Kiri koli posted:Oh I know that technically it's a bad thing to do. I wasn't shooting anything in particular. I was just pointing my new lens at my furniture at night and playing around with settings to check that everything worked. The problem primarily happened at high ISO and small aperture, but it would occasionally happen at more reasonable settings as well. I was asking if using such settings would cause an error even with a functioning lens. Even though I'll never shoot with such settings for real, I still don't want a broken lens. The problem might eventually extend to all ISOs and apertures, for all I know.
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Jan 22, 2011 07:23
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Are you talking about Peter Funch? http://www.peterfunch.com/index.php?/ongoing/babel-tales/
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Feb 15, 2011 22:06
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jackpot posted:They're doing some big upgrades at work, so I'm going to have my laptop wiped and re-imaged. What's the best/easiest way to get my Lightroom 2 catalog over to the new computer?
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Feb 20, 2011 02:03
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Phat_Albert posted:I dont know where else to ask this, so I guess I'll put it here. I know we have a DSLR video thread, but is there one for people just shooting video on normal video cameras? I dont shoot DSLR video, but I'm imagining the processes are somewhat different than using other more conventional non-professional video cameras?
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Feb 24, 2011 17:40
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King Hotpants posted:your only way to roll.
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Feb 28, 2011 12:06
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 04:39 |
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I have 16gb of RAM and can stitch at least 10-15 RAWs (it starts to slow down around 10-12) but like Haggins said, there's no reason to once you do your initial editing. You can never have too much RAM though.
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Apr 1, 2011 03:02
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