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So I recently came across a hysterically awful camera at a garage sale, the Anny-35 Super De Luxe. With such incredible features as:
Fake selenium cells "Utacar" brand lens A wide range of apertures, from "Sunny" to "Cloudy" Super AND De Luxe!
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Aug 28, 2009 05:14
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 00:36 |
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I'm just concerned about the lack of control... The only other film camera I've used is a Nikon F60, which had autofocus and an auto mode. If I just set the aperture slider to "Sunny" (it's about 100 degrees out right now) and go for it, is it... going to work? 
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Aug 28, 2009 05:24
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dunno posted:Just throw some 200 or 400 speed colour film in that and go hog wild. C-41 films are unbelivably forgiving of overexposure at least. I could only get 100 from my school (haven't payed the lab fee quite yet so it's not my place to argue), and the combination of a very bright, yet partly cloudy day probably led to a complete clusterfuck of exposure. I'll post the results when I get it developed.
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Aug 29, 2009 02:49
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VermiciousKnid84 posted:Can anyone give me any advice on what I should be looking for? Do I need a lot of reach, or would a wide angle be best? You'll want a wide angle for the race start, which for a charity 5k is probably going to be pretty drat huge. As for the race itself, I don't know how big of a lens you'd need as you can generally get very close to the runners. The problem is that once the runners pass you, you need to get to the next spot as fast as possible. Scout out the course and learn where they'll be. If it's on a track, or involves laps, you're in luck.
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Sep 4, 2009 01:25
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thumbsmcgraw posted:These are all good points, and I'll keep them in the back of my head, but I was referring more to the difference between the way our eyes work as compared to the camera. The eye, or rather the way the eye communicates with the brain, is very different than the way a camera does it. The human eye can perceive some crazy range of "exposure", like 20 stops or something, all at once; in addition to being able to see at all in very very bright/dark scenes. When I photograph complexly lit scenes like sunsets, I always wish my camera could just see what I could- I can see all the detail in the sky as well as the foreground, but a camera just can't do that sort of thing. It's a limited device, an imperfect tool that works differently than your eyes do. This is one of those things that really can't be taught past a certain extent, you just have to keep shooting to the point where you'll subconsciously know how a picture will turn out before you hit the shutter. e;fb
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Sep 18, 2009 04:24
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I'm having some problems with star trails. I'm using a D50 with a 30 second exposure, f/3.5, manual focus, long exposure NR turned OFF. I roll with a ghetto setup involving duct tape and a coin keeping the shutter held down, and I'm quite sure it doesn't slip off or anything like that. Battery is fully charged. Shooting JPG fine, not RAW. At first, it shoots continuously- one shot starts right after the other. After a while, however, it starts taking its sweet time in between shots, ending up with my picture looking like this: When it slows down, I look through the viewfinder and the light meter is blinking, the AF area diagram thing and the dot next to it is blinking (even though I'm on manual?), and the flash icon is blinking. No idea what this means. I understand that continuous shooting only works until the buffer fills, but with 30 whole seconds in between data writes, shouldn't it keep on going? What is going on?! The Wensey fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Nov 17, 2009 |
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Nov 17, 2009 03:39
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I officially now have no idea what the gently caress. I tried it again and got this: Can you spot the little gap about halfway through? I walked out and checked on it halfway through, and the shutter was closed, it was just sitting there, so I hit the shutter and it did a 30 second exposure. Then it proceeded to do absolutely nothing for 2 minutes, when I decided "gently caress it" and left it on for another 20 minutes, during which it magically captured more pictures. For some reason, me ACTIVATING the shutter created a gap in the trails, which seemed to be continuous even though I observed it taking a break several times. I did the same sort of setup for a sunset time lapse, and it managed to take 250 1/10 second exposures in a row, no problem- the first 12 or so went as fast as the shutter could go, then when the buffer filled up it stayed at a slower, but steady pace. I'm considering buying an IR remote (no cable release exists for the D50) and trying to use that instead, if nothing else it'll be easier to hold down the button... I gave the above shot another try, and came back 2 hours later to see that my duct-tape rig came loose and I had a grand total of 7 pictures. The Wensey fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Nov 17, 2009 |
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Nov 17, 2009 06:08
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 00:36 |
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I was on manual focus, and manual mode, I said that in my original post. The thing is, if the coin stopped pressing the shutter, it would just stop taking pictures, period. It didn't to that, instead the rate of picture-taking slowed down from one directly after the other to increasingly large gaps in between the exposures, most noticeable in the last ten exposures. So I don't know that the IR remote would remedy this, because the problem doesn't seem to lie in the way the shutter is held down (I'm still going to buy it though, its cheap and useful for other things). Screw it, I'm just going write that one off as a weirdo accident.
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Nov 18, 2009 02:24
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