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torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

The Finn posted:

I am, the strap hangs right there, sometimes it flops over in front of the viewfinder, it's just distracting and annoying.

You have options. If you get the battery grip, you can do like I do, which is connect both ends of the strap to the right side, one to camera, one to grip. Keeps it out of the way. Second, you can get an R-strap, which connects to the tripod mount.

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torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

A5H posted:

Cheers guys :)

Also, if I'm shooting cars, should I shoot in jpg to keep the frame rate up nicely?
Obviously raw is more processable right?? But will I still be able to adjust the jpgs enough to be good?

I've never really paid attention before, but I'm trying to take this a bit more seriously now :)

Generally, just shoot raw. Unless you need a marginal frame increase (and only then in some cameras), shoot raw. There are some photojournalistic reasons for jpg (Tsaraleksi shoots in jpg sometimes), but really, raw isn't that much slower, and with card sizes where they are, there's not much of a down side.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Clayton Bigsby posted:

I guess it all depends (tm). I shoot a fair bit of jpeg, the reasons being not having to fuss with raw conversion, and the subject being exposed well enough and not needing the extra flexibility of a raw shot. And buffering when shooting fast can have an impact. My 50D will fill up the buffer with something like 15 raw files while it'll go seemingly endlessly when shooting in jpeg.

Probably heresy around here, but my take is to shoot jpeg unless you need raw... then again, I've shot enough to know when the latter is the better. :)

For someone who is very likely to get the exposure and white balance they want on the first shot, I'd still say shoot raw, but there'd be a lot less rationale. Buffer fills up faster, but you don't get more shots per second, just more total shots, right? How do your xD and xxD compare in that regard, by the way?

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Haggins posted:

Yesterday I went to a prison to visit someone, got there, then was told that I had to wait a half hour before I could get in. So as a photographer in a scary looking place, I did what came natural to kill the time. I took some shots then came back to wait for entry. As I was waiting, the Dept. Of Corrections Officer told me to delete the photos I took. In such a situation I'd normally tell the guy to gently caress off, however, this situation was different and I complied.

So my question is, what software can I use to reclaim these photos? I use a mac but I could go into windows if I really have to.

The various card manufacturers make recovery software. Just plug in the name of your card and recovery software in google, you should be good.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Radbot posted:

This is the right answer in my opinion. RAW is not always better, one of those cases is when you could be missing shots when your card fills up due to your format choice. Sometimes it seems like certain people would rather not take the shot than take it in JPG.

Sort of. I use small jpg when shooting hundreds of pictures to make a time lapse. But in that case, no individual shot has to be particularly high quality. I avoid jpg for other shooting because a) I have never, never, in a normal situation run out of space on an 8 gig card, shooting raw, and b) having more control is almost never bad. If it were necessary for me to get through processing hundreds of shots for a professional reason, I'd still rather batch process raw files than depend on jpg in camera work.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Radbot posted:

Did you read my post? RAW may be a good choice, but not if you're going to miss shots because of it. The post I was referencing was about a guy taking a 6GB card for a 5 day trip. I don't know about you but I'd fill that up.

Yes, I did. As you said, and as I agreed, IF, and it's a big if, you are going to miss shots, then you should either shoot raw or get more card. I'd go with get more card, though, as did the OP here. Oh, and I routinely take one 8 gig card on 4 day trips without issue.

A 6 gig card would give me 328 shots, which is more than 60 per day. I think I'd wait until I was under 100 shots left, then switch to jpg.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

jackpot posted:

Ha, I've finally made it, I have arrived:


:downsgun:

Jeez, it took that long for your friends to say it? drat, I get it a lot (the parents of other children in my son's daycare, mostly). My favorite was after shooting a reception where my pictures were widely preferred over the professional's wedding shots (two separate events, so we never overlapped), the "compliment" I got most was just that. Fuckers.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...
ImprovEverywhere did a photography bit that's pretty interesting.

http://improveverywhere.com/2009/09/22/subway-yearbook-photos/

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

A5H posted:

Fantastic, cheers!
And yeah I was already at 100, sorry I forgot to mention that.

What body? That's the only point of having ISO 50 on some bodies.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...
Remember, tonight is another good meteor night.

http://news.yahoo.com/s/space/20091020/sc_space/getoutorionidmeteorshowerpeaksovernight

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Captain Hair posted:

I need some advice on getting better pictures of quite specific objects.

I sell chandeliers and crystal or glass drops and beads. I'm using an age-old Konica KD-400Z, its chronicly old but its always done the job till now. It was top of the line... 7 years ago.

I do alot of sales via mail/phone, which means photographs are a must. Trouble is I just can't get a decent shot of them. Crystals in natural light emit colours and flares, under artificial light they look bleak and empty. If there any kind of light which can emulate natural light in this way?

Another problem is lighting, I've tried a rediculous brute for attempt of using garage spotlights and household lights to try and help, but it lights everything up so much that the crystal loses its crisp cut edges and looks smooth and blank.

I'm debating getting a new camera, but I'm not sure if my paltry £300 will bring a great deal of improvment. Alot of the stuff I can fix in photoshop, but I'd rather produce "genuine" shots as its simply more realistic and cuts down on time spent getting decent pictures.

I wasn't sure if I should put this in the lighting thread, as my questions are kinda odd. Any help or advice would be great cheers :)

First, brad industry has the background for the technical problems. Second, your lighting sucks. Since using natural light seems unlikely for your product, you need daylight balanced light. Strobes, or even constant light fluorescent lights would do it, and light it as brad suggests.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Captain Hair posted:

Never heard of "daylight balanced light", from what i've read up on it quickly it appears to be of the same "brightness" and colour of sunlight, but would this mean I would get colour coming through the crystal, or is that not possible with artificial lights?

I'll have a go at using some black background, but I think that while it might show off the glass/crystal well it might not be too good for the frame (usually brass/bronze) of the chandelier.

Cheers for the help thus far, I'll see what I can make of the pics :)

You won't use a black background. Use white, well lit, with good light, and use black cards to add definition. Think of the cards this way...they won't be in the picture, you want them to be reflected in the glass/crystal, to add edge.


Here's a setup that Mannequin did for a similar effect.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mannequin-/3668396679/

torgeaux fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Oct 22, 2009

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Malalol posted:

Any reviews for this Targus battery grip? http://www.amazon.com/Targus-TG-BGXTI-Battery-Canon-Rebel/dp/B001AK2VPQ

Its on sale for $26 which seems too good to pass up unless.. theres something off about it or I can get some chinese knockoff on dealxtreme for $2?
I don't have any extra batteries either, just one, it'll still work fine right? ..though paying $26 just to make my camera bigger to hold..

I'd recommend this instead:

http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Grip-Vertical-XT-Batteries/dp/B000G3KLPA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=photo&qid=1256559193&sr=1-1

Or, without the extra batteries, it's only $59. It's made at the same plant as the Canon, it is identical in every way.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

germskr posted:

I'm retarded. :doh:


If only I'd seen the original post.

torgeaux fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Oct 28, 2009

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

No. 9 posted:

Stupid question, but it's always been nagging me.

Is there anyway to get lower than ISO200 on my 40D without going out of a manual setting? I can only get 200 in manual/priorities, but if I throw the camera into Portrait mode it can do 100. Anyway I can bypass this?

This is odd. ISO 100 is the base ISO, available in everything but some autoiso situations. If you can't set it to 100, there's a problem. Did you buy it used? Take a look at the manual. Manual

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

poopinmymouth posted:

You have on highlight tone priority. REad the manual. It's limited to 200 ISO when that's enabled.

Ha. I completely forgot about that limitation. Don't use it, don't have those situations that often.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

TheAngryDrunk posted:

I'm pretty much a complete newbie, so forgive the potentially really lame question that follows.

What kind of camera is needed to take those really cool night time cityscape photos? This is an example of what I'm talking about. Is that anything special? Or can it be done with a pretty much anything?

Any camera with some level of manual control. Turn off the flash, set to lowest ISO, shoot for long exposure. Self-timer and camera not hand held. Ta da.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

DreadCthulhu posted:

Hello folks,

hopefully this is the right place to post such a newbie question, otherwise feel free to redirect me elsewhere.

I was thinking of getting the following Nikon D90 package as my first serious DSLR: "Nikon D90 Black 12.3 MP 3.0" 920K LCD Digital SLR Camera w/ AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR Lens"

I'm visiting some Western Europe in December and I'm probably going to be taking a lot of city and landscape shots (I love the area around San Marino in winter). The thing I'm not so sure about is if I should get one or two additional lenses with me to make sure that those pictures are as awesome as they can be. As I understand, the 18-105mm lens that comes in that Nikon offer is a very generic lens that works "ok" for most cases, but would you guys recommend additional lenses for my situation?


First, try here:
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2934270

Second, I have no idea about the nikon kit lens, but the D90 has a good reputation.

Third. Nikon? Really. All the smart kids go canon.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

DreadCthulhu posted:

Pardon my noobness, but what exactly is considered a fast prime?

f/2.8 as a max aperture is slow for a prime lens, fast for a zoom lens. A fast prime is f/2.0 or faster. The 50mm f/1.8 and f/1.4 are good, reasonably priced fast primes. Sigma's 30mm f/1.4 gets great reviews also.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Z posted:

If he were talking about getting a D40 I'd say you're right, but the D90 is about where Nikon's sweet spot is right now.

No, I'm saying all canons of any kind are better than any nikon. Canon 300D versus Nikon D3x? Take the canon. It's just superior in every possible way.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

The Wensey posted:

I officially now have no idea what the gently caress. I tried it again and got this:



Can you spot the little gap about halfway through? I walked out and checked on it halfway through, and the shutter was closed, it was just sitting there, so I hit the shutter and it did a 30 second exposure. Then it proceeded to do absolutely nothing for 2 minutes, when I decided "gently caress it" and left it on for another 20 minutes, during which it magically captured more pictures. For some reason, me ACTIVATING the shutter created a gap in the trails, which seemed to be continuous even though I observed it taking a break several times.

I did the same sort of setup for a sunset time lapse, and it managed to take 250 1/10 second exposures in a row, no problem- the first 12 or so went as fast as the shutter could go, then when the buffer filled up it stayed at a slower, but steady pace.

I'm considering buying an IR remote (no cable release exists for the D50) and trying to use that instead, if nothing else it'll be easier to hold down the button... I gave the above shot another try, and came back 2 hours later to see that my duct-tape rig came loose and I had a grand total of 7 pictures.

Do you have autofocus on? Linked to the shutter button? If so, it's likely hunting for focus lock. Turn off autofocus, or link it to something other than your shutter button, as your ghetto setup may be causing that problem.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

jackpot posted:

If there's a better thread for this, let me know.

Need to make some photo books for Christmas presents this year. Who's got the best quality/price ratio?

I prefer Blurb to Kodak, but both are ok. Neither are really good for truly best displaying pictures, as the paper is too glossy and not really great.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Tziko posted:

I'd say that the only thing that might damage your camera is condensation when you go back inside. Moisture from the air will condense on the cold camera.

If you have a camera bag outside with you, one way to avoid this is to simply leave your camera in your bag when you go inside. The bag and all the contents will warm up gradually. If you want to be even more safe, you can put your camera in a Ziploc bag until it's at room temperature.

Yes, this. going from dry to moist is the problem, and cold to heated usually fits the bill for those conditions. Equally applies to going from air conditioned interior to humid hot exteriors, e.g. tropical locations.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

albedoa posted:

Yeah I appreciate the response pwn, but you might be on the other end of the curve from me :D Maybe some more average users can share their habits?

I do pretty much what pwn does. I crop to 8x10 dimensions mostly, or leave it uncropped, and save at 12, then post full size to flickr...mostly as a storage/backup medium.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Pompous Rhombus posted:

1920x1200

Are the 24" iMac's also hit with the yellow monitor issue? Check it out first, and be careful as the problem still hasn't been resolved on the affected iMacs.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Ziir posted:

Thanks, I'll check that out later. I'm running Windows by the way, to the guy who suggested Mac software.

One quick question, when people say "open up the aperture" do they mean to decrease the f number or to increase it? I know that a lower fstop equates to a bigger aperture so it would make sense that "open it up" means to lower the f number but this is something that has always confused me.

Open up means get wider aperture, or lower number.

Stop down means a more narrow aperture, or bigger number.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Ziir posted:

What's the difference between changing my AE/AF Lock button on my D80 to have it focus when pressed to just switching my camera from AF to manual focus after I set my focus?

one unnecessary button push.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

nonanone posted:

How many other people use back-button AF? I recently decided to permanently switch over, because I like the control more and it fits the way I shoot. I only know of one other photographer that actually does this though, so I'm curious about who else does.

Me. Once I switched for some particular shots I realized it was much more versatile, and just as easy, as the single button AF/Meter/Shutter use.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Ziir posted:

I asked before but didn't get a response so I'll ask again. What's the difference between setting my back button to AF when held versus just leaving it normal and switching the camera from AF to MF after I set my focus? I assume all cameras have this switch in the front where it's easily accessible. I tried setting the back button to AF but it's just really annoying to keep it held down constantly.

I answered the first time. You've added an unnecessary step to the process, and that's rarely a good thing.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

poopinmymouth posted:

I just changed mine because of this discussion to be the AF button. Makes perfect sense and I'm sure I'll get used to it quickly.

I'm sure it's not for everyone, but once you get used to the slight difference, it seems more intuitive.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Eutheria posted:

What's the general consensus on SmugMug?

I currently have a Flickr account, but recently I've grown to hate the site and barely use it anymore. My subscription is up soon and I want to find something better. All I'm really looking for is a reliable, useable, and aesthetically appealing site to store/display photos — and preferably one without a retarded social networking feel to it.

There are also some programs out there to suck all your current stuff from flickr to smugmug.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

therattle posted:

Hi there,

I have the Nikon 18-70mm lens. I often use this with a Hoya circular polariser. In certain cases (I haven't been able to identify at what aperture or focal length this occurs) I have darkening in the corners of the image. I am pretty sure that this is due to the filter. Has anybody had a similar experience? Will using a super-thin filter (dammit, the cost!) eliminate this issue?

Thanks! Also, I don't have Photoshop, but I imagine there is a way to use it to eliminate this in post-production, as it were. Is it worth getting PS for that?

Oh! Sorry, one more: does anyone know of a good, preferably free programme for knitting several shots into a panoramic?

BobTheCow posted:

The better question is why are you using the filter to begin with? If you don't have a very specific reason to use it, you probably shouldn't, as obviously it's detrimental to image quality. It would make more sense to simply not use a filter than try and undo the damage in post (assuming, again, you don't have a specific reason to use one).

This thread has had a lot of filter discussion recently: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3163404&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=88

I gotta disagree with Bob here. A circular polarizer is very useful, unlike protective filters, if used in the right circumstances. Assuming you know that, yes, low profile filters lessen vignetting. You can also address post, but that's less effective. Low profile filters are more expensive, though.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

TheFuglyStik posted:

Are we talking about the number of pixels as an important factor, or as the only factor? That's all I've been seeing on this page. Of course you're going to be getting better performance at the same ISO with a >20MP full-frame beast, which would be a great point to bring up if it weren't a comparison between a 40D and 450D.

I'm well aware of how phase detection AF works, but now it's getting into questions made to stir things up. Feel free to disagree with me if you find different specs to be higher priorities, but would you be willing to suggest phootnote not switch from his 450D to the 40D just because it has ten rather than 12 MP, despite every other difference?

I don't think that's the point. I think we'd all agree the 40D is an upgrade. Unfortunately, in a "General Photography Questions" thread, you made a broad, inaccurate statement instead of a narrowly tailored answer. This is SA, you'll get called on that every time.

Remember, the 5Di has larger photosites at 12mp since it's full frame, and in the ballpark on price with the 40D now, I think.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

TheFuglyStik posted:

Fair enough. I was interpreting the context as people slamming the 40D over the 450D because of the megapixel count, so I can see how things got wrapped around. Good to know that wasn't the case. :)

This is a place where routinely the 30D and 20D are still pimped hard over the Rebel series...and for good reason in many cases. We loves our xxD line.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

InternetJunky posted:

At what temps do I have to worry about condensation in the lens when coming from outdoors to inside? I just bought a Canon 100-400mm and am paranoid about this now.

When going from dry cold to warm moist, while in the cool area, put the camera in a plastic bag (preferably sealed, like a gallon ziplock, and let it come up to temperature in the bag.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

Phat_Albert posted:

Unfortunately the nifty fifty has no focus markings, so I guess I'll just have to eyeball it.

In daylight, focus on something that is clearly at infinity. Mark that on your lens (use a needle and put a small scratch mark).

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

brad industry posted:

Look at images constantly, you have to build visual literacy in the same way you learn to read text.

Learning to talk about images is a skill you have to learn, just like shooting or composition or editing.

Both of those things are extremely important and they are skills that take time to develop. Just constantly be looking at, reading about, and thinking about images.


Read about photographers and their work, learn about the context that surrounds it because nothing is created in a vacuum. Try picking up a photo history book, the more you know about what has already happened the more you can understand what's going on now.

All images are a combination of craft and content, both are equally important. Don't worry so much about learning the technical stuff, because that is just a means to an end. Let your craft follow your ideas.

What you like personally is subjective, but that is a separate issue from whether an image is successful or not. Work you don't personally like can be still be good, valid, successful, important, relevant, etc.


And I keep saying, but if you ever come across a reference to a photographer and don't "get" it try looking them up on American Suburb X and read about them.

edit: \/ thanks

Piffle. Just buy a better camera. And lenses. Filters. New tripod. More lenses. New version of camera. Continue until you feel that your pictures are good enough.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

TheFuglyStik posted:

I started by learning the technical stuff first, and then figuring out the aesthetic part as I went along. It's not so much a series of hurdles as it is a gradual climb with a few "holy poo poo I just realized this!" you come to on your own along the way. There's no magic formula or advice that instantly causes good photography or complete understanding of why others like certain images.


That could be a dangerous suggestion if he's ever been to Fred Miranda. :v:

Yeah, it's always possible someone won't see the satirical nature. It was more for brad than for the newbie, but yes, I was kidding. God, that comment could go straight to FM forums without edit.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

jackpot posted:

Billy Hunt Photography: 4 Tips for Looking Beautiful in Photos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFsD7ddmU6Y

I want him to be my photographer from now on. As long as this was self-aware.

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torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

poopinmymouth posted:

Anyone know of a source of "behind the scenes" food styling blogs or flickr groups? I specifically want to see the dirty tricks of it, that go beyond normal cooking and arranging.

http://www.blogged.com/topics/food-styling/

Out of curiosity, I did a Google search of behind the scenes food styling and that was the only hit.

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