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huhu posted:poo poo. Why are lens hoods so expensive? Accidentally dropped mine off a cliff and the "Nikon HB-103 Lens Hood" is looking like $70 to replace. I got Chinese knockoffs for a couple of my lenses and they're the same thing for cheap, had good luck with JJC stuff.
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2023 06:53 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 11:01 |
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I was in a related boat last year, not new to photography but new to having the money for a good camera. Was talked into the X-T4 and have been very happy with it. I think spending a bunch of money on a camera with only one focal length is a bad move, if you don't like it you're stuck. I do think there's benefit to walking around all day with a single prime and being forced to stick to it. Being able to do that with multiple lengths on different days is good though, you'll find what you like. With Japan specifically, you're in an excellent position because used camera gear there is a) extremely well taken care of most of the time b) cheap inherently and c) the yen is 150 to the dollar right now, plus camera stores often do tax-free so that's another 10% discount on top, so you're in a sweet confluence of events to get a great kit at rock bottom prices. What I did was get a used body in the US and a single lens so I could learn how the camera worked before going, then I went to Japan and bought everything else there for cheap. It worked out very well for me.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2024 21:41 |
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Nah that's a perfectly good starter kit for the world of real cameras. Walking out with a medium format would be the spent too much money option.
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# ¿ Mar 1, 2024 22:35 |
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I've heard a lot of good stuff about the Lumix GX800 and Olympus E-M5. Going to be more like $500 for body + lens used but decent cameras for $300 that are also compact enough to be pocketable is going to be tough to find. You'd probably have to get lucky with a local deal.
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2024 20:04 |
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I bring everything on the trip, but when I go out for the day I only have two or three. If I have no idea what I'm seeing or planning I'll bring my 18-50 and 50-230, plus a fast prime. I like telephoto a lot so my 50-230 became my default walking around lens.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2024 23:07 |
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The problem's the subject is moving too, right? I think underexposing a lot is the way to go, you can recover a good amount from that with a modern camera. 6400 ISO is usually fine too, the noise reduction in editors nowadays is real good. I dunno how bad the Z5 gets above that.
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2024 01:48 |
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I stick to aperture priority when I do night photography in varying light like that. I have a few different settings for max ISO/minimum shutter speed and pick one of those, let the camera handle it from there. My camera will ignore the minimum shutter speed if you push too hard, which is annoying. If it's doing that and you're dealing with movement set it to like 1/125 and auto ISO capped at whatever the max reasonable setting is for the camera. If it's still struggling you can probably set exposure compensation down to like -3 without totally losing the dark parts of the image. I might use exposure bracketing if you're having to go that far, just in case. F4 with moving subjects in the dark is going to be tough whatever you do.
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2024 02:40 |
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Is there a good guide to doing repair on lenses? I know the main advice would be "don't" but I got an old manual lens for with the aperture stuck open for $4 just to play with.
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2024 08:08 |
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torgeaux posted:https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3868955&pagenumber=5&perpage=40 Derp. Thanks. Megabound posted:What lens? Lenses are the best starting point for learning repair. A Zesnar 135mm F2.8. Other than the stuck aperture it looks to be in good condition.
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# ¿ Apr 5, 2024 16:50 |
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I'm pretty sure all lenses are listed by their full frame focal length just for consistency's sake. I know Fuji lenses have full frame focal lengths on them even though Fuji doesn't even make any full frame cameras.
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2024 06:45 |
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xzzy posted:If I understand lenses properly there's no such thing as "full frame focal length" either. Yeah you are correct. Focal length doesn't care about sensor size. But in real world terms everyone talks about these things in reference to how it works on full frame as the baseline. If you don't have a full frame camera then you also don't have to give a poo poo about that. But the base question is is a 50mm lens always a 50mm lens and the answer to that is, as far as I know, yes. I think lenses designed specifically for APS-C might be less girthy?? I'm not sure about that.
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2024 08:09 |
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Havana Affair posted:Could there be a difference in vignetting in lenses designed for cropped sensor vs full frame? I've understood on some fast film lenses they kinda made the lens oversize so it would have less vignetting fully open. An equal lens, say f1,2 50mm, wouldn't need it on a crop sensor? Or am I thinking this wrong? Probably more difference between lens designs so this is a very academic point. Yeah, a lens designed for an APS-C is going to vignette on a full frame since it's projecting an image that isn't the right size. You can use full frame lenses on crops without that problem. I've been into vintage lenses lately and they're all designed for 35mm film cameras, works fine on my crop mirrorless with an adapter. There are adapters to fix this though, it's basically a magnifying glass that goes between the lens and the sensor. It's not going to help the image quality but that's always up to you if it matters, if you're not pixel peeping you may not notice. Grand Fromage fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Apr 9, 2024 |
# ¿ Apr 9, 2024 17:28 |
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I think the effective stop boost is because uh, okay imagine the lens is letting 100 photons in, but you're on a crop sensor so only 70 of those photons are hitting it and the other 30 are being wasted hitting the area around the sensor. The speedbooster focuses the image down to the size of the crop sensor, so now all 100 of the photons are hitting it.
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2024 17:56 |
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I've seen people use a camera rig for home scanning so I wouldn't be surprised.
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2024 06:22 |
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I'm imagining the place being slammed and just desperately trying to catch up.
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2024 06:42 |
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Accipiter posted:hay guys im looking for a comfortable shoulder holster for my camera can anyone help Looks more like a wrist strap situation imo.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2024 01:05 |
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Accipiter posted:I thought about that but the hand strap I use on my 5D4 doesn't seem to mount anywhere on this camera that I can find. Might have to get some tire chains to wrap around the camera first, kind of like putting peak design anchors on the thingies.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2024 01:13 |
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Accipiter posted:Now that is some good thinking. They call me the ideas guy.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2024 01:25 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 11:01 |
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That's just how IR photos look in color, filtering the visible light means you filtered out the real colors. You either switch to black and white, or there's some sort of Photoshop trickery you can do to swap color channels and turn it into false color. IR is fun I got a filter and have been doing some, I'm just sticking to black and white for mine.
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 17:24 |