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Quick question: will using alien bees and triggering them via a pc sync cable ruin the camera or lights if I use an old 35mm? I remember that you can't use old hotshoe flashes on today's cameras but is there any danger in sync cable usage with old/new gear mixing?
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2011 23:20 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 15:58 |
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I use Shootproof for hands off prints and digital files. You set prices, approve orders, and can make passworded galleries, etc.
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2023 21:40 |
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It’s missing a few features that keeps me from being able to use it as a full stand in, notably the calibration panel which I use almost all the time. I’ve made some presets for calibration settings that still work in there, but not having fine tuning control of it is annoying.
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# ¿ Dec 9, 2023 18:08 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I wound up with a Canon 5D Classic The GOAT. No digital camera has ever been able to recreate what that camera could do (in good light). I keep meaning to pick up one again.
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# ¿ Dec 9, 2023 20:30 |
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Beve Stuscemi posted:I do love it. I’m not a good enough photographer to get the best out of it, but what I do get, I like. Holy poo poo, they're sub $200 these days!? Last time I looked they were going for upwards of $600 because a lot of wedding photographers were hoarding them.
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# ¿ Dec 9, 2023 22:08 |
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If you have an adobe subscription they include up to 5 free gallery websites that are super easy to share to (including auto-syncing with Lightroom collections).
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2023 19:45 |
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Set some of their buttons to switch to jpeg instead of RAW
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# ¿ Dec 20, 2023 22:36 |
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That’s part of why I love the custom modes on Canon R bodies. I know every time I turn the camera on or switch the dial it’s going to recall to all of the settings down to where my focus zone is on the screen (and orientation specific even).
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# ¿ Dec 20, 2023 23:18 |
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I love them. I have 1 set for portraits - defaults to aperture prio, a lower ISO range, wide open on the lens, eye tracking focus mode, and lower speed burst 2 is shutter priority at 1/400, higher iso range, center zone focus with tracking, back button eye focus, and highest burst drive. I use this for concerts, pets, anything moving fast. 3 is manual/flash mode. Defaults to 800 iso, 1/100, f/4, one shot non-tracking focus and one shot burst.
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# ¿ Dec 20, 2023 23:34 |
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1/250 is the go to for moving subjects. If they’re running or something you might want to drop to 400.
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# ¿ Dec 23, 2023 19:38 |
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I use photo mechanic for that and don’t even copy the rest of the files to the hard drive. Not really necessary these days with compressed raw formats being so good, but still keeps things lean.
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# ¿ Dec 25, 2023 00:46 |
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You're not dumb, that's intentional and an epidemic of digital capitalism called "dark pattern" design. For anyone annoyed at Adobe (for any number of valid reasons), if you go through the cancellation process they'll offer you big discounts to stay. It was 50% off for a few months last time I did it.
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# ¿ Dec 27, 2023 19:51 |
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Google kills pieces of poo poo like that for breakfast
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# ¿ Dec 28, 2023 01:28 |
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Slotducks posted:I'm absolutely in the conspiracy theory camp that Adobe pays Affinity a yearly stipend to not produce a LR Clone. It's really good and terrible at the same time. Produces amazing results and has a great UI, but the performance (in Classic) has been garbage for 12+ years and only gets worse with every new feature. They still don't let you customize hotkeys either, which is my biggest gripe.
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# ¿ Dec 28, 2023 21:06 |
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I assume they're talking about the machine learning denoise, lens blur, and premium smart adjustment presets like portrait retouching, background/subject selection, etc. Those are all in Classic and some of them are game changers in previously time consuming things like masking.
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# ¿ Dec 29, 2023 06:12 |
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Yeah, the Lightroom denoise is huge. I use that and the super resolution a lot. 25 seems to be the sweet spot for the amount, keeps the detail but removes a ton of noise. Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Dec 29, 2023 |
# ¿ Dec 29, 2023 06:59 |
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DJI Action 4 is really good for how small and usable it is. It's a good bit better in low light than the latest Gopro thanks to the bigger sensor too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFVHdyq2mbk Very usable night footage, especially for timelapses. Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 10:59 on Dec 30, 2023 |
# ¿ Dec 30, 2023 10:55 |
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xzzy posted:Dumb question: what's a good collective term for a "pro" or prosumer camera? Like 10 years ago you could mention a DSLR and people would know what you meant. And today we got mirrorless. But sometimes you want to be inclusive to both as a step above a P&S and as near as I can tell there's no convenient catch-all term for that tier. There’s a few “prosumer P&S” options like the Sony RX VII and ZV cams, the Ricoh GR line, and the Canon G7 stuff. I’d lump the Fuji X100 line in there too even though its form factor is more like a “real” camera. I don’t think they have a unified name since they’re so niche and come in many forms, but it’s definitely not a dead space for manufacturers. I think just noting “camera” vs “phone” is enough distinction, as there are people doing pro work with some of these small cameras. The X100 line is popular with wedding photographers, for instance. Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Dec 31, 2023 |
# ¿ Dec 31, 2023 17:47 |
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Eh. There's something to be said for finding what inspires you to shoot and focusing on that as opposed to wandering aimlessly and photographing piles of trash because that's just what's there. If that is rewarding to you just because it keeps you active in the process or whatever, that's great, but it would just burn me out instantly.
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# ¿ Jan 2, 2024 23:17 |
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I don't see much distinction between shooting aimlessly every two weeks vs OP setting time aside each month to actually find something in their area they want to go shoot. I think their approach is fine and likely to be more productive for their goals. And again, shooting random stuff with no purpose or drive would not remind me of why I love photography but bore me of it. Another Person posted:
Yeah, that's a lot more agreeable IMO.
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# ¿ Jan 2, 2024 23:28 |
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Most phone/ipad/laptop screens are pretty good these days too, much better than CRT or early LCD days. Calibrate for your screen/printing and don't worry about it. If their screen is bad, your photos will still look better to their bad calibration adjusted eyes. I know someone that keeps max setting night mode on 24/7 on their phone, nothing you can do for those people.
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# ¿ Jan 3, 2024 19:05 |
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Another part of it is the squish that's happened between the bottom end (phones, cheap P&S) and high end pro cameras. There's still a gap, but it's smaller than ever, so all the stuff in the middle is more tightly lumped than before. A high end point and shoot vs a low end mirrorless is a lot closer than in the DSLR days.
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# ¿ Jan 4, 2024 19:27 |
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Tsietisin posted:Another question from me. Depends heavily on if it's digital/prints and personal/commercial use. What kind of uses are you looking at?
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# ¿ Jan 6, 2024 01:08 |
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Slotducks posted:Hell yeah - exactly what I was looking for. I'll be meeting everyone on the bill before hand and I actually booked it with the MC so I think everyone will be clear on intent and everything like that. I'll dive into the googler a little bit later Try to get more of the setting and audience in most shots and frame them around the comedian if possible. If you get tighter shots of just them, it'll likely just look like someone giving a TED Talk. If you can get people laughing/clapping while the comedian smiles, that's the money shot they want, especially if you can get it from the side so you see some of the audiences faces while still getting the comedian in profile. I wouldn't go with flash, it'll be too harsh straight on (and distracting if you bounce) and make it look less like a comedy club and more like a theatrical performance.
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# ¿ Jan 9, 2024 19:25 |
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I would just get a camera cube and put it in the non-descript backpack of your choice. You'll end up with a better bag for the price, better protection and usage of bag volume, and it'll be exactly the size you need. I like the Think Tank cubes because they can double as a shoulder bag, but there are plenty of cheaper options too. I have an old Incase cube I've used in a regular backpack on many flights and it's always worked great. https://www.thinktankphoto.com/collections/stash-master-photo-cubes
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# ¿ Jan 16, 2024 05:33 |
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The Modern Sky posted:
What kind of photography? Hourly rate doesn't make sense for most kinds. The only thing I price hourly is corporate events.
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# ¿ Jan 18, 2024 21:40 |
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Think Tank retrospective 7-ish (it has a variety of sizes to fit your specific needs). Looks nice without being too techy or screaming camera bag, has the great TT build quality. It doesn't have dedicated tripod straps on bottom, but it does have a zipper flap under the main bag flap so you can do the single tripod leg through there thing and have it sit on top of the main flap. Speaking of, I swapped my Hex Ranger sling to a Think Tank Presspass 10 and it's incredible. Has both a shoulder/sling strap with multiple attachment points to dial in the angle it hangs and a built in belt system which is really handy for use in photopits at concerts where I'm swapping lenses across two bodies frequently. It also holds a frankly disgusting amount of gear in such a tiny bag. I have my R6, 50 1.2, 70-200 2.8, 35 1.8, and 16 2.8 all in that tiny bag. Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Jan 26, 2024 |
# ¿ Jan 26, 2024 16:30 |
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Your camera probably has a profile or picture style for monochrome. It’ll still spit out a raw file with color data, but it can be really helpful to see the light and compose in B&W while shooting.
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# ¿ Jan 29, 2024 11:08 |
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Flickr is your best bet
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2024 17:35 |
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Yeah Flickr is a mediocre social network (which I see as a plus now) but still a fantastic place to just store your pics and share them directly with folks.
Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Feb 20, 2024 |
# ¿ Feb 20, 2024 17:58 |
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other people posted:flickr has been threatening to delete my photos for about two years now. They are super serious about it. same
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2024 19:02 |
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Aside from heavy cool white balance, color grading wheels in Lightroom will get you there.
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2024 01:37 |
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I wish Canon would make a modern 28-300. They have the 24-240 but I haven’t heard or seen much about it.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2024 19:13 |
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The cameras with a fixed ~40mm are a lot more reasonable than the wider ones IMO. I like that Ricoh does both for the GR line. If someone did a dedicated 50 fixed pocket cam I'd be tempted. There are wide and long adapaters for the Fuji X100 line, but I've never really heard any real impressions about their quality.
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2024 23:05 |
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Film ISO is a measure of how sensitive to light the stock is, and is part of the chemical process of manufacturing/developing film. Digital iso is boosting the sensitivity of the digital sensor by cranking the gain similarly to increasing exposure on the raw file in software(or literally the same if you’re on an ISO invariant camera). Think of it as a volume knob on a stereo, complete with the fuzz and noise you get when you go too far. You get more volume but a less clear signal. They act very diffferently in practice for a few reasons. Pushing and pulling film is very different than increasing iso when shooting or increasing exposure on a raw file because it’s a chemical process vs electronic one.
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# ¿ Mar 5, 2024 04:01 |
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That's basically a Ricoh GR II .txt
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2024 19:57 |
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nitsuga posted:I think the Ricohs are going to run more than $300. The 10mp ones are all about $299 on eBay. That's the 2017 model but they definitely hold up well.
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2024 20:17 |
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You didn't have to push the film speed there because you properly exposed that scene with aperture and shutter speed. It's insane when you're used to digital dynamic range though. Film in general does have wider DR and handles being under/overexposed better. The highlights don't immediately go hot white, the roll off is much nicer, etc.
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2024 21:33 |
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Don't forget you can always just focus manually. For something like fireworks that are probably not close or a static subject for a portrait, there's no reason why you can't just set it yourself and use liveview to confirm sharpness (zoom in if needed). Not as easy as pressing a button, but it will still get you the shot instead of blurry focus hunting frames. But I agree, if your fastest lens is an f/4 you can't go wrong adding a 1.8 or faster prime, it'll open up a lot of new shots to you.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2024 20:46 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 15:58 |
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point stands. if you're actually in that chaos your camera is not going to be focusing well anyways just lock it at 2m and fire away. I do that for wedding dance floors and shoot at 5.6 and never have to worry about focusing on fast moving close subjects in dark spots
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2024 20:51 |