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Squish posted:Keytronic makes some keyboards with that layout, this post was typed on one. This one has a lifetime warranty, just cut off the connector and mail it to them and they mail you a new KB. I looked at a few on the site, and it seems like they are running a 3 year warranty now. 
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Nov 5, 2009 05:59
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I decided I wanted to get a mechanical keyboard, but I am seriously overwhelmed by the choices. I'd like to get a tenkeyless keyboard, with cherry brown or clear switches. Something with standard-sized/shaped keycaps so I could switch them out at some point would be nice. I don't care about backlighting, and it is a bit of a negative if I have to turn it off every time it is powered up. Media keys a plus but not required. USB preferred. Budget is approximately $100 but I could go a little higher. I would prefer to buy it from amazon if I can. Any suggestions? taqueso fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Feb 27, 2015 |
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Feb 27, 2015 19:01
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Thanks for the suggestions, decided to splurge a bit and got a CODE w/ clear switches.
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Feb 27, 2015 21:43
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Romulux posted:I've been keyboard shopping and lurking this thread lately and have about the same criteria for a keyboard as you, read the recommendations you got, and also decided on the CODE with clears. Hope we both end up happy with it! Did you get the Vortex doubleshot PBT caps? I'm thinking about it but I don't like that they won't shine through correctly on any key with more than one symbol on it. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/vortex-backlit-doubleshot-pbt-keycaps (Massdrop ends in 27 minutes) I thought about it for a bit, but decided I could wait (and I want blue ones  ). I did pick up a pack of red o-rings to try out.
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Feb 28, 2015 19:43
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^^ I payed $150 for mine My CODE should be here tonight. A little miffed because the local fedex has been sitting on it for a couple days with tracking status "not due to be delivered".
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Mar 3, 2015 14:54
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How to lube: http://www.daskeyboard.com/blog/fix-that-squeaky-key-on-your-mechanical-keyboard/
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Mar 3, 2015 20:00
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Gerbil_Pen posted:Has anyone here had a mechanical keyboard from WASD? I'm looking at picking up one of these with Cherry MX Browns for $155. I'm using it for gaming and general use/typing. A couple of us just got CODEs which are made by WASD, our posts are mostly on the previous page. They seem to be highly recommended. Mine showed up an hour ago and unfortunately it was the 104-key version instead of the 87-key version. Amazon is sending me a replacement next-day, so that is cool, but I'm a little bummed I only got to type on it for a few minutes. Seemed nice, though.
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Mar 3, 2015 22:10
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chippy posted:Recent CODE buyers, do you find that some of the LEDs have a yellowish tint to them? I took all my keycaps off to install orings and one of the LEDs did look yellow from certain angles. It looks like a coating gone wrong possibly. I can't tell it is yellow with the keycaps on, so its fine I guess. Stuff like this happens when buying electronic parts, but considering they charge $150 for what is supposed to be a premium product, I hope they will be addressing their sourcing problems.
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Mar 5, 2015 02:15
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I've had a little time to use this CODE keyboard now. I ended up getting red and blue orings and liked the blue ones better. The red ones didn't have much effect. The board is nice and quiet now, except for the stabilizers on the wider keys, which rattle pretty loudly. Going to dump a bunch of lube on those tonight. Typing is really smooth and comfortable. I would like to try a switch that is a bit softer, but these are quite nice. I got a tenkeyless board because I don't use the numpad, but I discovered I really want there to be an enter key on the right edge of the keyboard so I can slap it with my thumb. Not a big deal, but if I could get an 88-key version (87 + enter) I would love it. I was toying with the idea of designing a keyboard PCB for fun. Cherry switches are easy to source from our normal electronic distributors, but does anyone know who makes stabilizer hardware? e: Looks like Cherry makes that, too. taqueso fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 18:58
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Boris Galerkin posted:I just bought one of those tester kits with 8 different switches. I have no idea what I'm getting myself into. ...now you will know exactly what you are getting in to...
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Apr 14, 2015 23:06
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Segmentation Fault posted:What keyboards are even out there that use clears WASD/CODE. Some ducky boards. More than that I'm sure. I keep noticing clears for sale without really looking for them, I don't think they are that rare (at least anymore). I bottom out (slam into the o-rings) on my clears all the time, but it feels nice when I do so.... taqueso fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Apr 19, 2015 |
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Apr 19, 2015 16:29
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TopherCStone posted:Num Lock is on and I can't get it to turn off. Is there any way to toggle it from within Windows?
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Apr 20, 2015 04:25
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Thom P. Tiers posted:I believe I have narrowed my choice down to a CODE. Now I have to choose between Brown/Clear. I am leaning towards clears, because I already mash my keys pretty hard. Do any of you use CODE to play games with? Does it stress your fingers too much when having to hold down the keys? Should I be getting o-rings as well? I play games with a CODE w/ clears and I don't find it stressful to hold the keys down. I like the spring pushing back at my fingers like a little pillow, but I tend to really slam the keys when I get typing fast. It has been a lot of years since my last mechanical keyboard, so I was just shooting in the dark picking a switch type. I'm happy with clears, but I have a feeling I would have been OK with browns, too. I bought the .2 and .4mm o-rings. I couldn't really detect an effect from the .2, but the .4 adds a bit of cushion to the bottom of the stroke. I might try going without and with .2 o-rings again, I didn't really spend much time on either. I'd suggest lubing the switches and stabilizers, the keyboard was pretty harsh and metallic sounding stock. It takes awhile to do all the switches, but I think it was worth it. Put some grease on the stabilizers, at least, they rattle without it.
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Apr 22, 2015 18:06
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Deviant posted:So I've been using the Das with blues for a few days now and I feel like I'm doing really badly on it, and I'm getting a bit of soreness in my left wrist/forearm. I'm not sure. On one hand it might be worthwhile to try and stick it out for a week or two if you can still return it after that. On the other hand if it is painful, it may be bad to keep it up (I'm not a doctor). New keyboard day for me. Work was nice enough to buy me a CODE 104-key w/ clears. I kept bringing my personal CODE to work everyday, so this is great. No more forgetting it at work and having to use the old Saitek. When I got my first CODE, there were some people with off-white LEDs - not sure if that is still a problem, but all the LEDs on this board are white.
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May 14, 2015 18:45
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Ultimate Mango posted:I had an issue with the CODE lighting and posted about it here. The replacement of my original one and the second one I purchased are both less than perfect but at least tolerable. I don't think the way these are made you can even hope to get all keys perfectly white and evenly lit. Yeah, they aren't perfectly evenly lit, keys like -/_ and '/" are dimmer and are on my other one, too. Seems to be the keys that have the transparent part farther from the LED. But, at least all the lights are white, and not green or yellow tinted.
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May 14, 2015 22:20
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echinopsis posted:http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=887865738 Yeah, that's a CODE. Seems like a good deal, especially if a new one is 5x that price.
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May 15, 2015 21:52
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That buy now price would be good deal in the US, too, I think.
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May 16, 2015 02:25
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AbrahamLincolnLog posted:Has there ever been any mention from Vortex what the deal is with Pok3r backlighting? They stated in the past that the first batch of Pok3rs is not backlight compatible, but the PCB has the spots and diodes for it and it has working LED indicator lights... why can't I just solder them in? Is there a link to the Pok3r schematic somewhere?
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Jun 6, 2015 15:00
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echinopsis posted:drat, I just typed the gently caress out of that, didn't I Thread title please
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Jun 9, 2015 16:17
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For browns, I think a WASD (no backlight but you can customize the key colors) or CODE (backlit) would be a good choice. To get the keys real quiet, you will want to add o-rings (0.4mm is my preference) and apply a bit of grease to the stabilizers on the wider keys so they don't rattle. I'm not sure where to try them out in Seattle - maybe at Fry's
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Jun 18, 2015 22:23
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Fixit posted:Why do a majority of mechanical keyboards not have a 10 key? I'm not sure if it is a majority, many brands are available with and without. But I will say that I enjoy having a smaller keyboard - having the mouse closer makes it more comfortable.
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Jun 19, 2015 21:47
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echinopsis posted:I asked WASD if they would ever start doing DSA and they said they had no plans That is a great set of colors. I would like to try out some DSA profile caps, it's been a long time since I used them as a kid.
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Jun 21, 2015 04:46
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They should though, at least there isn't like 4 rows to maintain. Far fewer profiles overall across the board
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You can rinse the board with water to get the sugar out, then dry it with rice (or desiccant or even just a fan if you live somewhere dry). Except for a very few parts (things like speakers) almost all electronics are washable. At work, we wash our PCBs as a standard part of production. Just make sure it is completely dry before you try to use it. Components like switches can really trap the water because they have lots of empty spaces inside a maze of plastic.
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Jul 23, 2015 21:27
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Thom P. Tiers posted:WASD's aren't backlit are they? I'm still torn between a custom WASD or a code clear. They are not. Q. about a code KB - is there a way to output numpad keypresses using FN like I have seen on laptops? I occasionally run into programs that don't have configurable keys and require me to press Numpad+ or something like that.
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Aug 12, 2015 19:46
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prom candy posted:I never realized how much I used the KP enter key until I got my TKL. Apparently it's my go-to enter key when typing URLs into the address bar. I had the same issue but it went away after awhile. I used to like to slam that enter key with my right thumb as I moved my hand back to the mouse.
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Aug 14, 2015 16:00
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pr0zac posted:Lol you use a mouse. My mouse has clears 
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Aug 14, 2015 16:32
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Slowhanded posted:You don't need o-rings for clears. They're not loud at all unless you're hammering them down, at which point even o-rings will be of marginal value. I like them 
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Oct 13, 2015 17:14
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Nm
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Oct 17, 2015 03:20
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You know the loop sensors that detect cars at intersections? Cherry keys are nothing like that.
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Oct 28, 2015 19:15
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:This looks pretty good, is it well made? One thing that attracted me to the Das Keyboard was its anodized aluminum construction. This looks kinda plasticky but maybe I'm wrong. They are a plastic shell, but they are well made.
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Dec 11, 2015 21:51
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Yep, big problem. That wrist pad is way too big.
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Dec 17, 2015 21:16
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 22:36 |
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Get clears. Or read the last 10 or 20 pages of the thread and you will know everything you need to know.
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Dec 17, 2015 23:04
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