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In tutorials mention that gesso is poo poo and don't listen to anyone who wants to spend hours undercoating instead of minutes. Also, I have a Trollblood warpack lying around at home that has no chance of selling so I am thinking of painting them in the most possibly offensive way in the eye of Privateer Press fanboys. I am thinking ultramarine colourscheme with upside down omega's.       
Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Oct 4, 2009 |
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Oct 4, 2009 15:23
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Aranan posted:Haha, do it! That's be awesome. I have heard of those hard core european painters doing it, but it is a bit extreme otherwise.
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Oct 4, 2009 16:36
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PaintVagrant posted:I use my old s7 brushes for metallics, and my new ones for non-metallics. Metallics are very harsh on brushes :\ Yeah I have noticed that actually. I get by with the one set of lovely synthetic brushes that cost $2-3 from the craft store. I should really invest in some s7 windsor and newton brushes. I can get them cheaper online rather than buying locally but I have always been a bit aprehensive about ordering them because I just picture them arriving with bristles poking every which way.
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Oct 4, 2009 18:08
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bobvonunheil posted:As soon as I get my camera working, I am so gonna fill this thread with my crappy paintjobs so as to get some constructive criticism. Basically the idea with blending is getting a smooth transition of colour by basically mixing it while it is still wet on the model. It is pretty hard to do, especially with foundation paints, and you can get similar results with lots of layering.
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Oct 5, 2009 15:14
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crime fighting hog posted:Those metal shoulder pads are smaller than plastic ones. Way to go GW. Pretty sure this is because they were made during second ed. It is annoying though. You dudes doing eldar should be stealing these monochromatic schemes, they look amazing.
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Apr 9, 2010 06:13
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crime fighting hog posted:What's everyone's recipe for rust? I just use boltgun with increasing amounts of orange, but I figured someone here knows better without buying some weather powders. Protip if you don't want to buy/can't find weathering powder, use ground up artist pastels (not oil pastels obviously). It is the same poo poo, cheaper, and there is a wider variety of colours.
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Jun 7, 2010 14:16
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FROOOOOOOOG posted:Goons: What's the difference between the different varieties of Milliput? I am pretty sure it is just how fine it is. A lot of the top painters around (Sebastian Archer et al) like to use regular miliput mixed with water and painted on to fill the imperfection in a model and then sand it back so it is smooth. Fake edit. I just googled milliput and there are different colours for different uses. I have only hear about grey/yellow and superfine white being used for modelling. Stick to them I would say. Is there any particular thing you are wanting to do with it?
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Jun 17, 2010 16:35
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Fix posted:Jesus gently caress: Those are Jamie Downward's models. Basically they were painted with a mix of airbrush and just brush. He airbrushed on the main colour (the grey green) and then airbrushed on a highlight from above the model to get a zenithal light effect, that he then went and refined with a paintbrush. This dude has won a heap of Australian Golden Demons. No offence meant to PV, but they blow his models out of the water The dude with the double handed axe and horned helmet was painted by Sebastian Archer, and he didn't use an airbrush. He has won a couple of Australian Slayer Swords and a heap more Golden Demons, I thinka couple in the UK as well. They both post on Oz Painters, which has some ridiculous number of good painters posting fairly regularly (from around the world, not just Australia)
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Aug 3, 2010 15:56
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PaintVagrant posted:Anything with good zenith lighting and blends like that = super rad You got it. I basically take anything that Sebastian Archer says as gospel, and Jamie Downward is hugely influeced by his painting as well, especially in colour choices. I will be trying out some of Sebs techniques in painting the 2000 GD Black Orc for display, and possibly entry into the Golden Demon next year.
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Aug 3, 2010 16:16
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PaintVagrant posted:Not sure if anyone here reads no quarter (privateer press rag) but there is a "speed painting" article where the painter basically uses primer to created zenith highlighting, then just uses washes over it. Curse or Beers is a commission painter over on The Warhammer Forum and does something like this as well, up close the models aren't that great, but across a unit or army, it looks amazing. Here are some links to his threads: http://warhammer.org.uk/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=45082&start=0 PV, does the effect end up something like this? I think me might spray black, base coat, then spray white then do washes though. High Elves: http://warhammer.org.uk/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=45082&start=0 VC with a lot of source lighting, meant to look like an army at night time: http://warhammer.org.uk/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=40191&start=0 I think using an airbrush would work better than spray cans, as you should be able to get a finer mist, in some pics of those army you can see splotchy spray, but you should be able to eliminate that with an airbrush. Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Aug 3, 2010 |
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Aug 3, 2010 18:36
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:I have a crazy question. How would I go about replacing the flag on this guy? Simply snip of the bannerat the models hand (both the top and the bottom), find some generic warhammer banner (empire or dark elf corsair banners are the first that spring to my mind that would suit the model) and drill a suitable sized hole through the hand and the banner and insert some brass rod to length. Simple. Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Aug 8, 2010 |
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Aug 8, 2010 18:42
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enri posted:See this is my problem, I used to treat every model this way but realised it wasn't a realistic approach to gaming with a painted army.. but, in my haste to get a painted army, I think I've applied the speed painting logic to everything. I should try to correct that I guess :/ I am in this boat at the moment. I have to paint a 3000 odd point ork army, 3000+ point Dark Elf army, 2000pt Eldar army and 2000 odd point WoC army. My plan is to do a solid, neat table top standard on them all, then go back and make them prettier when I have them all done. My only painted army is my Deathguard, and I started them 3 or 4 years ago and the paint job, while good, is a bit dated, and they are painted in a way that I can't really touch up, which is a bummer because my painting is a lot better now.
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Aug 11, 2010 14:45
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So I have a boring night job where I have lots of spare time, so I have started to take models to work and paint them in the spare time I have. I might start doing nightly updates. Here is my work tonight so far. Some cold ones for my Dark Elves. Gonna be orange and dark grey/green. Undercoated with Fiddly Bits grey primer ($3.50 AUD a can), just a light spray to give the model some tooth. Hoping to have the orange done tonight on them. Pictures are off my phone, so aren't very good, but I can upload directly to photobucket with them, so it is pretty good for updates.  Basecoat of Sanguine base on the scales, fairly watered down, becasue I will be layering blood red over them all. Gonna be tedious. Will update in a few hours. EDIT: Yeah, so gently caress layering on the blood red, I dry brushed it. Will layer on the orange and yellow, however. 
Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Nov 24, 2010 |
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Nov 24, 2010 14:13
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So the orange was looking to fake layered on, so I went with a drybrush of it as well, and just a highlight of the yellow, which ended up being half drybrushed anyway. I haven't really drybrushed anything other than bases in a while, but it suits the really small scales for the cold ones.  Orange on  Yellow  And that will probably be it for the night, because I thought the scales were going to take forever and only packed the paints to do the orange, and not the grey.
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Nov 24, 2010 15:23
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So this is how my cold ones are looking at the moment. Imagine this x8 for the whole group and you get an idea of what they are looking like. I am thinking of doing one more highlight on the fleshy bits. The flesh is Chardonite Granite (or whatever it is called, the foundation paint) base, adding Coat D'Arms Putrid Green (Rotting Flesh GW) for the highlights. I still haven't decided how to paint my acrtual dark elves, so that is why I started with the cold ones because. I am thinking black highlighted with green, sort of like the new dark eldar are done, or with purple.
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Nov 28, 2010 17:38
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^^ Really digging those Iron Warriors. I think the models would stand out a bit better if you had a lighter shade of base. Maybe chardon granite drybrushed with lgiht greys then dheneb stone would do the trick. AbdominalSnowman posted:That looks awesome, is it just drybrushed? Works well on that sculpt if so. For your actual elves I would go with purple, the cold ones have those yellow undertones which complements purple well. Green might look a little christmas-y. The scales are essentially just drybrushed/overbrushed, the rest is layered. I am toying with a gold armour at the moment, with green and purple washes and dark purple cloth to compliment I think. It is essentially yellow and purple colour combo then, and that should be fairly striking. Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Nov 29, 2010 |
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Nov 29, 2010 14:41
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Tadhg posted:
If you are keen on the 3 shade sets, then Foundry do the same thing with their paints and as I understand it, Coat D'Arms makes their paints (and p3 paints) so the quality should be good.
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Feb 7, 2011 18:43
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Killer_Bees! posted:So quick question, I have got back into the hobby after a couple years hiatus and I need to get my hands on a large amount of spraypaint/undercoat. I walk into my local GW reseller and find GW cans at $22 Aus!!! so what do you Aus warhams recommend for undercoat and priming large amounts of models without being gouged by our terrible Australian pricing. I did pick up some sepia wash and devlin mud, god drat this stuff is like magic. My go to primer right now is Fiddly Bits grey primer. At around $3 a can I find it hard to go past. Also, you get the easier coverage that comes with a white undercoat, but if you miss a spot it doesn't matter too much because it isn't as obvious as white. Please don't use gesso, it takes too long to prime and it leaves a chalky residue to the model that is horrible to paint on.
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Feb 16, 2011 15:33
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Calico Noose posted:Personally i use Fiddly Bits flat black and i've had no complaints. That said i'm an average painter at best and i've never used anything else to prime so for all i know it's terrible and switching it for something else could vastly improve my painting. Fiddly Bits flat black is ok, it goes on a little thick though, but will work. The problem is that it is not a primer. You want a surface for you paint to stick to and a primer is the best way to do this rather than just a spray paint.
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Feb 16, 2011 16:39
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Tadhg posted:Anybody have a good source on brown/grey stuff? All that I've been able to find on the web is repackaged brown stuff from GF9, and it's $10 for a tiny amount. I buy my green stuff in long rolls for pretty cheap, I imagine that there must be something similar out there for brown stuff. I think you would be best ditching both materials all together. I used Easycast, which is a two part polyurethane resin that starts setting almost instantly. I used it for basic one part and two part molds. When doing a two part mould, simply spray the mould with some release agent, pour in the resin in both sides of the mould and have a toothpick on hand to get rid of air bubbles. When you notice the liquid starting to become white and cloudy (this means it is setting) quickly put the two pieces together. It is a little messy, but very simple. It takes about 10 minutes to dry too so you get quicker production time as well. Here is where I buy the product in Australia, you would be able to find similar products wherever you are I would imagine. I reckon it owuld work out cheaper than GS or BS http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=19_495_273 Milliput dries rock hard and is easily sanded, and is not flexible at all, it is also water soluble. It is totally different to work with than greenstuff. I am not sure how it owuld preform in moulding. Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Feb 17, 2011 |
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Feb 17, 2011 18:15
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P3 Menoth white base is nice, but is a bit darker than bleached bone I think. p3 also make menoth white highlight which is a really nice slightly off white. Coat D'Arms make an equivalent colour that is good as well, but I can't remember the name of it. (The company that make P3 paints makes Coat D'Arms as well as Foundry paints.)
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Feb 17, 2011 19:43
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The thing I've always hated with that big cryx wing dude is that the model looks like it is sculpted by a professional and then the wings look like skewers with plasticine awkwardly draped over them by a downy.
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Feb 21, 2011 17:12
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Sole.Sushi posted:Someone tell me how to make an awesome light-box. I'm sick of my models looking like crap. Get a cardboard box, remove the opening flaps, cut windows in 4 of the sides (leaving one for the base) and then tape some baking paper/parchment paper or whatever to diffuse the light. Also, Eyespy, ditch the blue edge, go dark grey or something instead, it is drawing the eye away from the miniature. If you do wnat a blue edge, at least make it darker. Also, add some flock to the bases.
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Mar 7, 2011 14:14
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Got bored on the weekend, had this guy sitting in my ute for ages, thought I would do a clever little conversion. He is from the 420th Valhallan regiment or something I don't fuckin know military poo poo.
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Mar 14, 2011 13:43
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Hell Diver posted:E: Or just use it for your elaborate bong jokes! Thanks! I tried red eyes, but I need new brushes and the only decent size 1 brush I have was the smallest and the tip was a little bit out of joint.
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Mar 14, 2011 18:22
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Crossposting from the Oath thread   Really happy with the freehand. Pics are just from my phone so please excuse the quality
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Mar 15, 2011 16:06
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Thanks! I used a lot of thing washes and thin 'juices' when layering to build up the colour.
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Mar 15, 2011 16:25
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The Blue Pyramid posted:I built a razorback today That conversion is pretty tight. Instead of GS I would have used milliput because you can sand it smooth, you could probably still go over with it if you wished to. Not a bad job mate. The turret sits a little too high for my liking as well. Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Mar 15, 2011 |
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Mar 15, 2011 19:51
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Fix posted:This is probably the best thing I've painted thus far. What I think this model is really lacking is some contrast. The browns, golds, flesh colours and the loin cloth thing just sort of blend it. I would hit the green in the deep recesses with a wash of darkangels green with a little bit of scab red mixed in. Maybe drybrush the fur up to bleached bone and a few subtle washes on the bird would do it wonders I think. A reddy purple wash on hte gold would go a long way too. The face on this model is reeeallly good though, the red tinge just makes it. Great work. And this is what I have been up to recently. My friends are nagging me to get back playing 40k, and I want to play with something other than my deathguard. My orks are going to take aaages to paint, so I have decided getting my 2nd eldar models ready will be a more manageable task. I think I am going to go an old school ulthwe scheme with a bit of a modern flair. I would love to hear people's thoughts on him.   I went with a purple wash on the bone and metals to contrast with the yellow. I mucked around with some spray painting to quicken up the black. What I do is undercoat black, with a dusting of white from above, then give the armour a coat of Coat D'Arms armour wash, this gives it a subtle transition, then I do a few edge highlights in grey. I am still trying to get this right, but my first results are promising. I would love to hear what you guys think. Bases are probably going to be sand with a few tufts of dead grass, or a craftworld base that will be ivory that I will cast myself.
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Mar 22, 2011 14:04
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Fix posted:It's kinda frustrating, because I actually did all of that, but I can't get the contrast in the photo. I went with the red contrast into the cape, did a few ink glazes over that to get a little tiny bit of shine, drybrushed the fur up four levels to a cool grey rather than bone, and the bird is actually done with nothing but washes and comes across as completely flat in the pic. I pushed the armor with multiple coats of dark redbrown glaze deeper and deeper into shadow. I dunno, as you can see from the picture I posted earlier, I am fairly poo poo at photography. Maybe try a dark grey or black background?
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Mar 22, 2011 17:18
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Hell Diver posted:I just put the time in to learn how to get to a point and then figured out what I can strip out of the steps in between and still get the same effect. Essentially I just learned how to cheat at painting. This is my approach as well. I kept hassling myself trying to learn new techniques when I didn't have the simple ones like layering and simple edge highlights down pat. Advice I usually give people is to learn to walk before you run. Learn to paint cleanly (I still have to focus on doing this, I tend to rush small details and not go back and fix mistakes) and evenly, then learn some different techniques like drybrushing, the try out washes and inks, then highlighting, the layering, then glazes etc. Also, learning what colours compliment each other has improved the look of my models tremendously.
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Mar 22, 2011 19:08
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Bavius posted:Goons, let me ask you something: where is the best place to buy Vallejo model and Vallejo air paints? https://www.maelstromgames.co.uk Free international shipping on orders over 10 pounds. I dunno if it will work out cheaper than the warstore or not.
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Mar 23, 2011 14:00
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There is a guy on Warhammer.org who is doing this with new release models. He isn't making much money at all, and lost money in a few instances. And not to be rude, but I don't think your painting is really at that standard yet.
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Mar 23, 2011 16:50
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e: i hosed up
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Mar 30, 2011 13:29
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Love the vibrancy of the hive tyrant, great job
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Mar 31, 2011 14:30
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PaintVagrant posted:What the hell is that thing on the left meant to be? I think it might be the worst PP miniature I have seen, sans the khador vampire looking dude. The goblins rule.
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Apr 12, 2011 18:44
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dexefiend posted:Stunted tortured elephant baby. Of course.
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Apr 12, 2011 19:19
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dexefiend posted:I just laughed out loud at work because of this song. I can soooo see some drugged out Dark Eldar cruizin' the Warp blasting this. No, this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVgSMuRsjNg
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Apr 14, 2011 19:16
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Whoever was asking about emerald green. Coat D Arms, who used to make GW paints still produce the colour http://www.maelstromgames.co.uk/index.php?act=pro&pre=cda_hob_fcl_pnt_164_000 They do most of the discontinued colours, down to the coloured metallics as well. Very good paints to use.
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Apr 22, 2011 14:16
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So I am taking a break from batch/speed painting to work on one of my old farseers. This is probably my favourite eldar model. 
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May 2, 2011 08:41
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