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Pagan posted:Has anyone actually purchased videos from I have not, but I do have these two DVDs: Hot Lead: How to Paint a Better Miniature by Laszlo Jakusovszky and Volume 1: Core Techniques from Privateer Press. (It's "part 1" but it's been out for a year and no other parts have been released) Laszlo's was 3 discs and "over 8 hours" but I feel a lot of it was from a poorly organized menu system where you have to listen to ~10 seconds of intro music for each section. It gets really annoying pretty quick. The production quality is higher than most of the vids you can find on YouTube, but it's still lacking--there are parts where the audio jumps when he's redubbing a section, the aforementioned menu shenanigans, and there are a few points when you hear conversations going on in the background. None of those are enough to render the sections worthless, but they are kind of irritating. Some people will like that he isn't producing this for a particular company, so he mentions a lot of different paints--GW, Vallejo, Reaper, etc. It was interesting to see him paint, but I honestly didn't learn anything that I didn't already know from reading painting websites or just one of the threads here on SA. The PP DVD is, obviously, produced by PP. So they're painting their models with their paints and their brushes, so I'm sure a lot of the PP haters will get turned off by that. The production quality is a lot higher, but there isn't as much content. The first 30 minutes are going over the basics of painting (tools, techniques, and a quick shot at how metal models are spun in their molds which I found cool) and the last ~30 minutes are going from start to finish, priming to basing, on three different PP models (Cygnar Ironclad, the Khador warcaster Sorscha, and a Legion of Everblight Raek). Both DVDs have some previews up on YouTube, so you can check them out yourself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jizaUcrXY8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pJJ5UODBfQ More Hot Lead previews, including  NMMBottom line: These DVDs cost way more than they're worth, especially considering the wealth of painting information available for free on the internet, or found far cheaper with other goodies in gaming magazines. Is it nice to see people paint? Sure. Is it worth $40/$30? It's up to you, but I say only get them if you've never held a model or paintbrush and have nobody to teach you. Otherwise, just bug PV and ask him how he does poo poo. [edit] Haha, apparently these two VHS tutorial videos are done by a guy dressed up as a wizard. I found a nerdy nerd reviewing them on youtube and he had favorable things to say about them (especially since they're just $5 each on thewarstore). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGSSAaEHjMA&feature=related Aranan fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Oct 4, 2009 |
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Oct 4, 2009 00:39
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Big Willy Style posted:In tutorials mention that gesso is poo poo and don't listen to anyone who wants to spend hours undercoating instead of minutes. Haha, do it! That's be awesome. Question: Do people usually use different brushes for normal and metallic paints? Aranan fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Oct 4, 2009 |
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Oct 4, 2009 15:47
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Ikke en viking posted:I do. At least use different water pots. Big Willy Style posted:I have always been a bit aprehensive about ordering them because I just picture them arriving with bristles poking every which way.
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Oct 4, 2009 23:23
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I am interested in doing a limited color scheme. Black armor with black clothing (and silver/gold detailing but whatev). The only thing I'm worried about is making the armor and clothing look different. I guess I could just count on the sculpts being enough to show the difference between baggy pants or armor plating, but I'm not sure if that would be enough. I'm trying to figure out how this guy pulled it off. It kind of looks like he just highlighted the pants more than the armor and did it in a softer, somewhat blended way as opposed to the hard edge highlighting on the armor. Does that sound about right? 
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Oct 5, 2009 00:43
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edit ^^^^^ Use birch seed leaves. http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/24 You can also buy them from various modeling places, but I don't have any links handy. Here's what THEORYPAINTER ARANAN would do: Take the end red and orange colors that you want. Paint the entire cloak red. then, make a mix of 2:1 red:orange paint and do the top 4/5 of the cape. Then a 1:1 mix and do the top 3/5 of the cape. Then a 1:2 mix, top 2/5 of the cape. Then use pure orange and do the top 1/5 of the cape. Hit the whole thing with a light was of red ink (or Baal Red wash) and maybe do one more light lighlight of the orange on the top edge. Make sure you're using very thing layers of paint and it should blend together by itself due to the paint's transparency. red:orange mixes - 1:0 2:1 1:1 1:2 0:1
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Oct 5, 2009 12:49
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Captain Invictus posted:JESUS CHRIST 
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Oct 5, 2009 20:02
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Captain Invictus posted:Still, it's a nice all together collection. Also, is there a price for it anywhere? Or are you just assuming it's supposed to cost something?  For content, I want to post a way to make trees out of grape stems! They look the best of any model trees I've seen so far, but I haven't gotten around to making any myself. Someone should! http://www.one-ring.co.uk/phpBB2/kb.php?mode=article&k=213  Shallow, your orks rock.
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Oct 5, 2009 23:50
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Looking for something cool to do with birch seed leaves?
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Oct 6, 2009 03:14
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bobvonunheil posted:Curses, I thought I'd checked whether the Ultimate Painting Guide was considered I dunno dude, I could probably just post the table of contents and every guide could be found on cmon's website or somewhere else like brushthralls. I'm not seeing a big reason to buy any painting guides as of late when so much stuff is available for free (legally  ) online.... except PV's plague marine schemes. That jerk.
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Oct 6, 2009 05:48
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, as searches I attempted only came up with the free download.
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Speaking of horses, here's a cool tutorial for them! http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=4389
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Oct 6, 2009 20:38
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I think he looks pretty good, Fix. He's tall enough that he looks a little more proportionally correct without going overboard and looking like a Slenderman marine (oh god). On an unrelated note, I bought some paints today and I stripped/re-primed my guys. As soon as it comes in, I'll pick up my brush and get to work!
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Oct 7, 2009 00:50
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landis posted:So am I right in inferring that truescaling is modifying the SM's to look more normally proportioned and not so chibi? That always bugged me a little but I wasn't sure if it was just the beefy armor confusing me. In the fluff, Marines are supposed to be like 9 feet tall or something. On the table, they're the same size as Average Joe Imperial Guard #24811. True scaling helps them stand out from average sized humanoids and, yeah, I guess it's also trying to "fix" the heroic sculpts that GW does where heads/hands/etc are oversized compared to how they'd be on a more realistic sculpt. Also, it's a way to show how HARDCORE COOL you are and to spend hours on each individual marine. 
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Oct 7, 2009 20:18
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Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I could go about making bases like these on my own? http://www.back2base-ix.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=1820
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Oct 9, 2009 06:42
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PaintVagrant posted:Buy the plasticard sheet with brick imprint, cut it into circles and stick it to your bases 
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Oct 9, 2009 12:42
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PaintVagrant posted:You can make pretty big jumps in value at the final highlight, but you HAVE to keep the edge highlight thin.  [edit] This isn't gbs, but I like having a picture at the top of the page. Here's what I'm currently inspired by; I am only awaiting my paints to get here from thewarstore.com so I can start. I'm using PV's Chaplain tutorial for the black, red, gold, and steel on my guys. Thanks again, PV. 
Aranan fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Oct 11, 2009 |
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Oct 11, 2009 02:34
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!amicable posted:Doomreavers disagree. Unsurprisingly, these awesome troop models are all Khador. Coincidence? I think not.     (I have no Doomreaver pictures )edit vvvvv that clockwork mantis has a tophat. I'm in awe.
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Oct 11, 2009 02:58
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PaintVagrant posted:
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Oct 21, 2009 00:53
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If anyone has ever wanted to make their own washes, I found a pretty detailed set of instructions on how to do so. http://thepaintingcorps.blogspot.com/2009/10/lbursleys-wash-recipe-released.html
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Oct 21, 2009 20:55
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Was he even trying to sell the finished inks? I thought he was just selling water, flow aid, and matte medium. Whatever, it's not really anything new as far as I know, but I thought it was handy to see an exact list of ingredients and the ratios used as well as some samples of white models washed with each color like what GW did for their washes.
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Oct 21, 2009 21:14
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PaintVagrant posted:Yeah, basically a glaze, which you can use a wash or a thinned down paint, like amicable mentioned Or an ink.
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Oct 22, 2009 16:52
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neongrey posted:Awesome, thanks. I'll have my juggernaut and destroyer looking 40% less like matte purple rear end in no time. Just letting you have a heads up to watch for little fiddly bits that may pop off during the scrubbing.
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Oct 22, 2009 19:38
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Does anyone have a suggestion as to what agitators I could put into my pots of paint? I know BBs are a no-go because they'll rust and that's just bad news. I don't really have any spare bits of metal sprue to use. Maybe a plastic bead of some sort? I can't imagine acrylic paint reacting poorly with plastic, but I'm just asking here to see if anyone has other suggestions.
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Oct 23, 2009 04:16
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Zarkov Cortez posted:One of those plastic coated magnetic stir bars
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Oct 23, 2009 04:47
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I'm pretty sure that's an epic scale model, just so you know. Does anyone know where I can get green stuff that isn't GW? I know there's some place that sells a huge bubble-tape style roll of it for cheap, but I can't find it.
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Oct 25, 2009 15:44
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aldantefax posted:Hey guys, really liking all the stuff in this thread, it just blows me away that you can get such a rich amount of detail with all these paint schemes. I've recently picked up into getting Warmachine and I am interested in getting started with a paint scheme for Khador - the black/gold scheme posted on page 7 or so with the Butcher and the Man-o-Wars is pretty solid. Do it! For what it's worth, I picked out the colors I want to use on those guys and me posted:Black:
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Nov 6, 2009 05:11
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Shallow posted:
They look great, Shallow. Hydraulic rolla arms are a good touch.
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Nov 9, 2009 02:21
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I have a strip of the magnetic tape stuff and Fix is right; that poo poo is really weak. A 1" strip of it is basically strong enough to hold a plastic army man to a vertical metal surface as long as you don't touch it or breathe on it. For something as tiny as an epic terminator, I'd definitely want a stronger magnet so it wouldn't go rolling away and get lost in the car somewhere.
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Nov 19, 2009 03:03
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"This mini was painted entirely using five pots of paint: Morrow White, Sanguine Base, Rynn Flesh Bootstrap Leather and Exile Blue."  ... drat. Here's where I found it: http://gardenninjastudios.blogspot.com/2009/11/painting-with-limited-pallet.html
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Nov 19, 2009 18:51
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!amicable posted:Don't the dudes slide even if they don't pop from the side of the box?
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Nov 23, 2009 03:10
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Any tips for getting snow bases to look right? I'm going for full snow coverage.  http://archive.brushthralls.com/basing/back-to-bases-2-cork-and-snow.html
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Nov 24, 2009 02:19
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PaintVagrant posted:Bronze: gold: mithril, sepia, sepia?
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Nov 26, 2009 18:08
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Kestral posted:I submit for your consideration one Hive Fleet Kraken Termagant. I think it looks pretty cool. If you're not happy with the red, just use a lighter red as another highlight on the carapace and you're good to go! PV: That's pretty awesome. Thanks.
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Nov 27, 2009 04:43
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PaintVagrant posted:From what I gather (ive never assembled manowars) they pretty much have to be pinned, like most PP stuff Pinning will set you freeeeeee.
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Nov 30, 2009 04:43
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Fyrbrand posted:too much blue
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Nov 30, 2009 05:38
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Sole.Sushi posted:Anyone have any experience with this stuff or this stuff? You, uh, linked the same thing twice. Anyway, I've got the Pro-Create grey stuff, but I haven't used any green stuff to compare it with. Sorry! aldantefax posted:Now, here is a question that I think is a 'to taste' kinda deal: do people paint multi-piece posable minis (Warmachine minis are pretty much the only ones that I can go off of since that's what I got) before or after assembly? I was having a lot of trouble with painting some of the areas with the way I had the Man-o-War posed so I think in his case I'll paint each major part seperately (upper torso, legs, left arm, right arm, hands and weapon) so that I can actually do it properly. 1. If you can't get to it to paint, you can't see it. 2. Sometimes you can see stuff you can't reach and/or you're OCD and want it all painted. What I'm trying to do is a mix of the two. I have my models partially assembled (for my khador jacks, I have the legs+base, the torso, and each arm separate) with pins and holes all set up. Then I prime them and get at least a basecoat on everything. If it's an area that definitely won't be seen (the underside of the torso) then a basecoat is all I really care about. Other areas will be seen, just a total pain in the rear end to get at with a brush (like the sides of the torso after the arms would be on) so I just paint those all the way and assemble at the end. Also, for anybody who uses P3 paints: do you thin them at all when painting Warmachine figures? I would assume you would if you're trying to do layering or something like that, but if you're just, like, doing basecoats and stuff, thinning isn't required, right? quote:On brushes: What brushes to buy? I see that Windsor & Newton are like the gold standard, but are there alternatives? I see these Rosemary & Co Artist Brushes on CMON that are like, "this is basically Windsor & Newton for half off, beat that suckers!"
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Dec 1, 2009 05:58
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Len posted:How much does it cost to get the supplies to start pinning things? I would very much like my Spriggan to stop falling apart and actually hold his drat lance. Also how hard is pinning for a person who has never done it before? $9.99. http://www.thewarstore.com/product48378.html I have a citadel pin vise and some of the individual packs of the P3 rods/bits, but you could just grab that and jump right in. Pinning takes a little practice, but it's not as scary as painting. I'm scared of painting.
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Dec 1, 2009 23:35
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Iron Squid posted:Where are you guys getting trees to make terrain for WH40K? http://www.one-ring.co.uk/phpBB2/kb.php?mode=article&k=213
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Dec 2, 2009 06:05
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Iron Squid posted:Where are you guys getting trees to make terrain for WH40K? http://www.one-ring.co.uk/phpBB2/kb.php?mode=article&k=174
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Dec 2, 2009 07:09
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Jonny Nox posted:This one is great! I've gotten as far as drying out a bunch of grape stems and buying some clump foliage from Hobby Lobby. I just need to get some bases/washers for the individual trees and something to base them on. Is there a place where I can get some precut pieces of MDF board? Like 1' x 1' squares or circles or something. [edit] Here's a little face tutorial I found on From the Warp:  Click here for the full 800x343 image. 1. Prime. I did this one in black like I did the others for consistency. 2. Basecoat with the light grey. You want a nice, smooth and consistent finish with this coat. 3. Liberal wash with undiluted Ogryn Flesh over the face. 4. Go back with the grey and pick out the raised areas of the face. 5. Slightly thinned (50/50) wash with Devlan Mud over the face. 6. Go back with the grey and pick out the highlights. Aranan fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Dec 2, 2009 |
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Dec 2, 2009 17:25
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