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A few examples of my decidedly average fare. From about three years ago, when I'd just got back into the hobby:    And from a year ago:    I should be adding a fair bit to my Death Guard in the next few months. More troops, some tanks, maybe even the Great Unclean One. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Oct 4, 2009 |
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Oct 4, 2009 01:18
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Most definately. Pretty much everything I paint has a wash somewhere on it now. My Plague Marines are drenched in Devlan Mud.
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Oct 4, 2009 03:13
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I like to wipe the brush along a bit of tissue to take off the excess when I'm using thin paints. You can see some of the paint that comes off, and a much larger area of moisture that would have caused the puddling.
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Oct 11, 2009 01:03
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Angryboot posted:Newbie question time since I just finally picked up my first sm tactical squad box, what are these holes on the backpack for? Those, you lucky lucky devil, are miscasts. They should either be flat there or have raised detail (skull or round vent). This isn't indicative of GW production quality by the way, in over a decade of buying stuff I've never seen miscasts that bad on a GW sprue. Go to your local GW and ask for a replacement, or ring GW and describe them. You shouldn't have any problem either getting them exchanged (shop) or being sent a replacement sprue/box (phone).
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Oct 11, 2009 12:04
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My tank is shite ! To accompany my Plague Marines I need an Apocalypse unit, so a fat tank is in order.  My plan at the moment is to glue 60mm bases on either side and then use bits of sprue to create a frame for the vats. Coming down to about level with the bottom of the sponsons. Then I'll clad them with plasticard. I intend to use the upside down base as a pool to fill with water effect stuff and Nurglings.. The rims for the peg holes will probably become bubbles. I'm going to use a couple of spare Defiler CCW flail things to create piping to run out from the turret to about midway down the barrel of the main gun. I don't intend to give it the full peniscannon, but that might change. I put the coaxial gun on before I decided to make it into a poo wagon, as the Reaper doesn't have one I'll try to make it look like it's knackered. Other than that, I need to deface the various aquila, and the mechanicus shrines. Maybe use a pinvice to pit the armour. I'm also toying with the idea of putting a hole somewhere on the hull to make it look like the Baneblade was knocked out, captured, and recommisioned. And of course, it'll have a Plague Marine in the commander's hatch. For painting I'm going to do it much like the rhino I posted in gibbis a few days ago, catachan highlighted with camo, washed heavily with Devlan and then more rust than in a nun's nethers. And smoke/soot staining around the hatches from when it was knocked out. I'd welcome any suggestions and feedback.
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Oct 13, 2009 03:42
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bobvonunheil posted:Hey guys, what is the word on MICRON PENS? I use a black Sakura Pigma Micron 005 for all my iris, purity seal, and text-on-model needs. It is excellent. Give the paint plenty of time to dry solid (or risk gunking up the pen), allow plenty of time for the ink to dry (to avoid smearing), and then you can happily go over it with wash. I'd say they are well worth the money even if it will only be for eyes. No idea about doing woodgrain though. I suppose if you could get the right shade ink to go with you paints it should work.
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Oct 13, 2009 04:09
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moths posted:I'd recommend practicing on a smaller tank if you haven't already done some massive conversion-work before. GW puts up sexy pictures of converted baneblades to lure gamers into ruining $100 tanks. Well now where is the fun in that ? Actually that is good advice. I'm going to approach this slowly with a lot of thought over the next few months. I've already revised my idea for the vats... I'm leaning towards a row of three 25mm drums behind each sponson feeding a 40mm mixing drum built into the stowage compartments at the rear of the turret, which in turn will feed into the cannon. And I really need to get my hands on some used guitar strings for the piping.
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Oct 13, 2009 17:59
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Yeah, I've decided to use some conduit as the core of the vats. And I've just recieved some guitar strings through the post that look perfect for the scale. I'll definately bear the stuff about damage being 'healed' in mind, cheers.
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Oct 15, 2009 16:26
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Well that makes you a heroman.
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Oct 15, 2009 17:50
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I definately want that chemical plant, I'm trying to track it down in the UK now.
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Oct 15, 2009 18:18
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Zarkov Cortez posted:Mixed in with a bunch of Catachans who would notice That's raaaaaacist.
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Oct 15, 2009 22:35
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That chemical plant set seems to be available under the Urban War brand as 'Biotoxin Plant' and I've ordered myself one. Now I just need to resist the mad temptation to build the complete plant on top of the hull.
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Oct 16, 2009 00:40
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A soldier of 7 Platoon, G Coy., the 7th Regiment of Foot*, yesterday: *Lost to the Emperor's Light following catastrophic moral failiure. Ignore the mold lines, Pig Iron use some form of indestructitanium for their components and I undercoated them before getting decent files.
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Oct 19, 2009 03:11
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Well it's the lower body of a Defiler, but he's turned the arm sockets into braziers so iunno.
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Oct 21, 2009 23:25
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GW Washes are perfect for that. Try either green or one of the browns.
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Oct 22, 2009 14:32
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You could get a proper spray booth, they're awesome for containing and removing the spray, but they're also expensive.
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Oct 22, 2009 20:20
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Haha, oh dear.
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Oct 26, 2009 00:35
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I've been working on my fat tank using the biochem plant kit. This is all just a dry fit, which is why the tanks don't have all their valves etc on, and why it's only on one side. I'm thinking that some piping coming off the back of the top tank leading over to an outflow into the mixing vats would look good. The idea being that the external tanks feed the vats where the poo poo is mixed, then it's drawn inside the hull (through the baneblade's existing fuel intakes) to be taken up to the gun.   Feedback ?
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Nov 1, 2009 02:32
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Cakefool posted:Regarding Rapey Joes chemical tank, would clear water effects tinted with ink, with some skeleton/ghoul bits look as good as it does in my head? That's part of my plan. I'm not sure whether it'd be best to mix ink with the effect, or just paint the a false bottom and then pour water effects over the top though.
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Nov 1, 2009 19:46
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Cakefool posted:Painting tank tracks: Brown basecoat, tinbitz then boltgun drybrushing? Boltgun metal and then cover them in Mig Track Brown pigment, apply thinner and make sure the coverage is good. Then rub a pencil over the raised edges, then use fixer to lock it all down. Gives you that particular brown that you see on the tracks of everything from tanks to JCBs.
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Nov 6, 2009 18:22
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I really like those baneblades. It looks like inbetween Nurgle bits I'm going to be painting quite a few Night Goblins, the problem is I suck at painting black cloth. My first thought was maybe use shadow grey as the highlight colour. Any tips ? Alternatively, would I be better off just starting with a dark grey and then badab washing ?
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Nov 7, 2009 08:31
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Getting those FW axes would almost certainly be a very bad idea. The handles will be extraordinarily easy to break, and probably warped to gently caress.
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Nov 10, 2009 12:52
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Colour theory makes my head hurt so I mostly only mix colours when I'm highlighting and there's no suitable colour already available to use. Colour.
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Nov 19, 2009 19:30
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crime fighting hog posted:Just double checking, I'm about to airbrush on some boltgun, does thinning it 1:1 ratio enough or should I use more water? Probably too late now, but I'd start a bit thick and spray onto some paper or something to test it, then add water as needed. But yeah, 1:1 seems like a good starting ratio for GW.
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Nov 24, 2009 21:26
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Airbrushes make basecoating a doddle. Just remember that to begin with you're going to spend most of your airbrushing time faffing about getting the hang of using/cleaning it, and don't get discouraged. You'll soon be ploughing through stuff.
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Nov 25, 2009 22:50
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Zarkov Cortez posted:You can try something like this, The guy at the end of that video seems like such a massive pranny in every one of their videos.
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Dec 7, 2009 12:05
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Fyrbrand posted:
I'd do the trims in silver. I think it'll look better than black considering there are rivets in it.
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Dec 17, 2009 15:14
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Quick first attempt at a nid scheme. I'm quite pleased but I definately need to make the green more transparent if I get around to doing a proper model (forgot I had glaze medium in my forest of paints).
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Dec 23, 2009 04:27
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Thanks for the positive feedback everyone. I have a lot of trouble motivating myself to get on with painting and positive feedback is the best encouragement. PV: yeah I think so. I'd airbrush the basecoat, then shading is devlan mud all over followed by an overbrush (is that the right term ? It's drybrushing with a damp brush and not as much paint wiped off), and only then do I actually have to start being neat as I apply the black/green mix, purples and green. The carapace is pretty quick as well being quickly applied straight lines.
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Dec 23, 2009 16:58
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I meant to ask for suggestions on basing actually, I don't think my usual earth rim and bestial-up-to-bone sand will really work. Edit: Maybe something closer to my CSM bases, scorched rims with industrial/urban grey bases. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Dec 23, 2009 |
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Dec 23, 2009 17:11
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Nice looking dragon. While I wait for the FW Nurgle Prince to arrive I've been thinking about how to paint him. I'm inclined towards essentially making him a walking turd with a vat of infected, blood streaked, semen on his back, who goes around spraying AIDS into the faces of his enemies. Have I gone wrong ?
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Dec 26, 2009 21:35
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As I understand it gravity feed is generally regarded as the best.
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Dec 27, 2009 06:52
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They do indeed rock.
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Jan 2, 2010 21:03
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Aranan posted:I've also heard pretty good things about colour shapers, but I've never used them myself. I really like them. They're very good for smoothing GS or just pushing stuff about without tearing it or leaving marks as obvious as the usual metal tools do. Still have to keep them wet though.
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Feb 11, 2010 20:42
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Whoever it was who recommended FW artist ink white, you're a star. Really impressed with it so far. Two coats to cover a dark orangey yellow, no thinning and no chalking at all.Chenghiz posted:So I know that washes are sort of bad on vehicles (pooling) but my space wolves get their colour by using two successive washes. Is there a way I can get that same sort of shading on my rhinos? I seem to recall having read about using "filters" for shading somewhere but I don't recall the details. On my last DG rhino I used a large flat brush, thinned the wash a bit, and was careful not to use too much at a time. Edit: I too would like some ideas for interesting 40k basing (no huge rocks that overlap the base rim). Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Feb 15, 2010 |
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Feb 15, 2010 03:51
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Daler-Rowney FW Acrylic Artists Ink. I think it was this thread, could have been any one of the others we have.
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Feb 15, 2010 03:57
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The consistency is about what you (well, I) would normally thin white to to avoid chalking. Milk-ish.Fix posted:
I might pick up the umber and black... I hate painting black normally because it doesn't seem to thin down very well, and I fancy making some of those awesomepaintjob.com washes. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Feb 15, 2010 |
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Feb 15, 2010 04:28
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PV, a couple of questions. A while back I recall you did some yellow marines complete with battle damage. What did you do to shade them, and how did you do the damage ?
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Feb 16, 2010 05:31
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Ta muchly.
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Feb 16, 2010 05:49
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Sole.Sushi posted:On the subject of Salamanders Sternguard... I really like the models themselves, but my god I detest the giant-rock-over-lip style of basing. Basing should create and image framed by the rim !
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Feb 18, 2010 15:38
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