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As far as lighting goes, drop by a garden shop and pick up some full spectrum bulbs if you've got the cash. If nothing else, you'll feel less like poo poo after spending 6 hours bent over tiny plastic dudes than you usually would.
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Nov 6, 2009 09:38
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I've had a lot of luck using duplicolor sandable auto primer as my white.
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Nov 11, 2009 01:40
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Anyone have thoughts on these basing kits? They're obviously more expensive than going out and buying all that poo poo in bulk, but having it all around in a nice little package could be handy, and potentially more cost-effective in terms of ingredients that can potentially go bad on you. I don't think you could run through one of those big loving jars (the only size they sell) of GAC texture gel even if you were basing an entire army, for one thing.
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Nov 28, 2009 04:18
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Basecoat: Layers n' poo poo:  As for a mixing vessel, the pro thing to do is whack together a wet palette with a cheap bit of tupperware, a sponge, a bit of paper towel, and some parchment paper (not waxed paper). Sponge goes into the bottom of the container, fill up with water about 3/4 of the way up the sponge, wet the paper towel and press it down on top of the sponge, then cut a bit of parchment just slightly smaller than the sponge layer and press it down on top of the paper towel, making sure that it sticks and doesn't have any air bubbles (areas with air in them will dry out and that's not awesome). After that, mix your paints on top of the parchment - they'll dry out way slower than they would with just a plastic dish or something. Store in the fridge if you're not done using your mixed colors when you're done painting for the time being, they'll keep surprisingly well. Wash the thing out every couple of weeks (no need to change the parchment until it becomes entirely unusable - I actually find that it gets better and better the more times you rinse it). If you're not feeling crafty, a simple mixing tray will run you like five bucks tops. I tend to thin my paints with a combo of water, retarder, and flow aid, but that's because I have huge-rear end jugs of the stuff sitting around from an art class I took a couple years back, they're strictly optional. e: Just picked up a new can of GW primer (was the only stuff I could get my hands on, unfortunately) but holy poo poo, it might actually be worth the money now? Maybe it's just an exceptional batch or something, but this stuff is way better than it was the last time I tried it. Beats the hell out of duplicolor for adhesion/detail preservation/smoothness, that's for sure. stabbington fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Nov 29, 2009 |
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Nov 29, 2009 04:30
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Yeah, that's gotta be bullshit. Going to stick to scrubbing everything down before priming, either way. On an entirely different topic, any suggestions for foam storage cases? I just discovered that my centurion somehow had its shield arm torqued straight off during my move a couple months ago, which tells me that my ghetto container store setup isn't quite cutting the mustard. Going to be a bitch to fix, too, sheared right along the pistons.
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Nov 29, 2009 07:34
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I'd thin P3s at least 2p:1w for basecoats, but I'm OCD as gently caress about brushstrokes (it doesn't help that my primary color scheme is mostly white).
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Dec 1, 2009 06:27
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If you have an airbrush and regularly use it to paint tanks: congratulations, everything you know is applicable to car modeling! If you hand-paint everything with a brush: sorry, you're kind of boned unless you feel like buying an airbrush setup.
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Dec 1, 2009 21:58
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Has Reaper dealt with the awful batch consistency issues that the master series stuff had when it first came out? It'd be nice if they managed that, because when they weren't unusable poo poo, they were really good.
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Dec 3, 2009 21:33
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aldantefax posted:So, there's an actual Blick art store nearby me that I recently learned about! I want to go, but I also want to come up with a shopping list of stuff that I want to keep an eye out for when going there so I don't walk away with the wrong stuff and an empty wallet. If you're buying W&Ns, pick up at least one size 1, the 0s are tiny and barely hold any paint. Great for details, though. Having an assortment of cheaper brushes around is nice, in general. Keeps you from loving up your nice ones with metallics, if nothing else. Blick usually carries some bargain-priced variety packs.
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Dec 5, 2009 01:03
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'til it looks like thisstabbington posted:Basecoat:
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Dec 8, 2009 02:35
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aldantefax posted:I'm wondering - what are good models to practice painting on? Like, in order to help develop techniques without worry too much about getting mistakes you can't redo, are there certain kinds of minis that are good for just kind of getting paint onto to see how it turns out without shelling a lot of cash? The completely basic GW space marines are probably the easiest models to just gently caress around with in the entire hobby. Large swaths of paintable space, easy to work out highlighting/shading, some metallic stuff, and all in simple-to-assemble plastic bits. $16 at the warstore for 5 of the things (most brick and mortar game shops have similar discounts on GW products), so they're pretty cheap for things you're just going to abuse/practice on. On the other hand, it's not going to get you much practice painting cloth, skin, leather, or eyes, which tends to be helpful on character models/everything from WHFB/Warmachine/Hordes/Malifaux/et al. You can pick up a box of 6 (Warmachine) Cygnar gunmages from the warstore for around $19 if you're focused on that. They're each just a single piece of solid metal (+plastic base). I'm sure people more knowledgable than me have better suggestions, but that's at least a jumping off point, I guess.
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Dec 12, 2009 03:47
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The GF9 stuff is just rebadged Kneadatite. One of those big tubes'll run you $13 and last you essentially forever.
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Dec 18, 2009 05:22
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Gryphonne sepia's pretty good, if you don't have a batch of homemade ink wash lying around.
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Dec 18, 2009 22:08
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menoth white highlight, pride of the p3 line
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Dec 19, 2009 03:22
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To summarize: gravity fed, double action, multiple tips, airbrushed primer is fine - any acrylic primer in a bottle, properly thinned, should work. Buy an Iwata HP-C unless you want to drop $300 on a Paasche AB of some sort (no idea about cheap options)
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Dec 27, 2009 07:31
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Thin that poo poo and wash your brush more often, yo.
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Dec 29, 2009 20:00
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it would also look way better with some smoother coats, sorry bro (still drat good considering)
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Dec 29, 2009 23:58
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They're not anything special.
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Dec 31, 2009 16:14
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Morham posted:Took a couple more photos, I'm a pretty bad photographer but I guess practice makes perfect so I'm sure I'll get better. This is the same knight from before but I took the other side and a close up of the face. I've noticed some little splodges of paint that shouldn't be there since I took these, and also the fact that my models are covered in dust. Loving the hell out of that shield weathering.
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Jan 1, 2010 18:46
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Indolent Bastard posted:And people laugh at 40K shoulder pads, yikes! Anyone who thinks 40k shoulder pads are bad has never seen Vlad's models.
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Jan 5, 2010 20:35
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Good yellows are always a product of layering. If you prime black, yellow is easiest to do working up from a brown - GW snakebite leather or P3 rucksack tan to a dark shade like GW foundation iyanden darksun to thin layers of your higher yellow, if you want something that looks really smooth. That said, IIRC iyanden darksun is actually opaque enough to go on fine over black primer without a layer of brown to mitigate the base darkness. I think Yog just does darksun -> brighter yellow on his skaven, and they look badass.
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Jan 10, 2010 06:31
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In my experience, the best way to do aged white is to reference either a dirty whitewashed wall (grime creeping up from the bottom, etc) or elephant tusks - aging ivory will generally look cooler than grimy white.
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Jan 11, 2010 06:57
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I just bought a bunch from http://www.kjmagnetics.com/, their prices seem pretty good.
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Jan 13, 2010 03:06
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Worse comes to worse, you just stack a couple and it works out about the same.
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Jan 13, 2010 04:24
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The Masters' Brush Cleaner owns, and a big tub of it will last you literally forever. I have one from 15 years ago that is still 2/3rds full.
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Jan 14, 2010 19:06
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Discworld owns. That's all you need to think about those last two pieces.
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Jan 18, 2010 09:36
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Except that they used to produce product of the same quality without giant loving piles of spare metal hanging off of it, and PP etc. manage to match or exceed their quality without having that issue to the extent that GW has lately. Something is up with their molds or their casting process.
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Jan 21, 2010 19:22
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Parchment paper, not wax paper. Wax paper isn't water-permeable. Also, a layer of paper towel between the sponge and the parchment helps even out air bubbles.
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Jan 25, 2010 23:07
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Feeple posted:Finished up some Menoth while I'm at it. Oh poo poo, you're the knights of mars guy. That color scheme owns.
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Feb 9, 2010 21:35
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Aranan posted:I'm almost tempted to grab one set of shoulderpads, grind Vlad's huge shoulders away, and replace them. Yessssssss, gently caress those huge stupid things.
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Feb 13, 2010 19:12
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Had a productive day, cleaned, assembled, sanded, gap-filled and prepped a full unit of Precursor Knights + UA, the new Nemo sculpt, a Stormclad, a Cyclone, and a Hunter in a couple of hours. Bonus gessoed eNemo sitting on my pin vice in back.
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Feb 15, 2010 01:44
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Cryx basing: mangled limbs if you happen to have a bunch of bits laying around that you can use/feel like doing some sculpting; swamps and blighted landscapes are also nice standbys.
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Feb 15, 2010 03:58
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Anphrax posted:Are the Chaos head dealios too much? No fuckin' way.
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Feb 18, 2010 08:50
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quote:Hmmm... What is mixing medium?
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Feb 19, 2010 22:49
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Retarded white cyclone WIP time Just looking at the picture of this thing I realize how much touching up I'm going to have to do once I get my whites finished and shaded. I need to get my steady hands back, christ. Ah well, at least my white is smoothing out after 4 coats (2 Wolf Grey, 2 Skull White) instead of 10 (don't paint white on black primer unless you are seriously the dumbest motherfucker around).
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Feb 21, 2010 00:22
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PaintVagrant posted:p3 paints own qtiyd Also their metal batch consistency was poo poo before they recalled the drat things, but whatever. Their normal hues own, and thin down way nicer than my aging VGCs.
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Feb 21, 2010 07:36
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A natural hair brush will probably need to be wetted before it comes to a point the first time you use it. e: also, thanks for the pipette suggestions guys, I'm clearly a moron for not thinking of that.
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Feb 21, 2010 18:02
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Really pointy brushes, really steady hands, and a bunch of practice, I'd imagine.
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Feb 22, 2010 07:39
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Ways to make your bases less boring. Not sure if that's really your thing, but I'm pretty much always looking for new peoples' takes on the topic. I am a sniping machine this week.
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Feb 24, 2010 09:24
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PaintVagrant posted:If I was able to offer basing kits, with a variety of smallish bags of ballasts and different colors of static grasses for a reasonable price (much cheaper than buying them all seperately from GF9 or whatever) would anyone be interested? If you can manage to be competitive with the skullcrafts guy, then more power to you. The market is probably there.
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Feb 24, 2010 23:57
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