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I haven't painted in at least 5 years and I'm looking to get back into it. I have 2 questions I didn't see noted on the O.P 1- Back then I was cheap as gently caress and used wal mart acrylics. I have money now, but I'm still not a good painter. What brands/types of paint should I be looking at for ease of use and cost in case I waste poo poo? 2- I'm looking for figures that are larger scale than the standard wargame. I'm not really all that interested in playing a game nor am I interested in painting 15 of the same model. What's a good brand or game to look at for larger models that aren't like 30 bucks each? edit: This is the top of my game folks signalnoise fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Nov 9, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 9, 2012 03:18 |
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# ¿ May 21, 2024 18:22 |
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I bought some paints and this is the first mini I've painted in years: What should I be doing that I am not doing? I can think of "thin paints more," "use colors," and "decorate the base." Goals to work towards? Your brutal honesty is appreciated.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2012 09:54 |
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Alright, got me some shade wash stuff. Anyone ever use nail polish as paint? After seeing what's out there in the nail art world I'm interested to see what I can do using some 6mm masking tape on a mini. There are some baller colors out there.
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# ¿ Nov 10, 2012 13:33 |
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Real paint acquired, I'll hold off on other stuff until I get something passable. I'll simple green this last one and try again without glopping poo poo all over the place and report back. For the future though, do you know if there are particular problems with nail polish? I really would like to see a Khador warjack dolled up like a hot rod in candy apple red. VVVVVVVVV Understood, I'll post again when I have something to show! signalnoise fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Nov 10, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 10, 2012 13:53 |
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Yeah I just went ahead and purchased more paints and inks and various poo poo I don't really know how to use in the spirit of adventure. If it's enough to cause people in both this thread and the nail polish thread to say DO NOT DO THIS YOU'RE STUPID IF YOU DO then I figure there's wisdom between the two. Painted this over significantly more hours than the previous one. Still gotta wait for those new paints to come in for washes etc signalnoise fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Nov 10, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 10, 2012 15:54 |
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After losing half a bottle of Nuln Oil on my desk (fortunately it is exactly the right shade of black that it doesn't matter) I think I've just become a Vallejo/Reaper paint convert. Dropper bottles.... edit: I have been getting paint out of these pots onto my palette by basically getting some on my brush and wiping it off. Is there a best practice regarding getting paint from pot to palette for thinning/mixing that is some other way? Using an eye dropper or something maybe? If not I really do think I'll just never buy PP/GW paint again. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Nov 11, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 11, 2012 12:30 |
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WIP Robot attempt #2, no legs yet I'm attempting shading and highlighting here. Since I am having difficulty making smooth gradients, I'm attempting kind of a cartoon shading here. I'm also having difficulty telling what I'm supposed to be doing with metallics. If I apply a wash, it just makes it look dull and dirty. I do not yet have a brown wash though, just Nuln Oil. I do have 2 different shades of steel, is highlighting metallics something that's done like you would do for non metallics? When my red paints come in, I want to fill in those eyes but also look like there's a lot of heat building up in that smoke stack. Something a beginner can do? signalnoise fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Nov 11, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 11, 2012 15:30 |
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Cataphract posted:I find blue washes work well for metallics. He's a quick and dirty Grey Knight I did for a friend I like the blue, I will try that on my next one maybe. By heat building up I mean I want each hole to be slightly glowing like there is a tube of lava or something in it. Maybe have some soot above each hole too? VVVVVVVVVVV Will do signalnoise fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Nov 11, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 11, 2012 15:49 |
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Flipswitch posted:Anyone here got any tips for painting eyes? I've got about eight different tutorials open so I don't bugger these up, painting Infinity miniature eyes is daunting. I don't know if this is too nontraditional but I have used a super fine tip sharpie to good effect.
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# ¿ Nov 12, 2012 14:13 |
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PierreTheMime posted:A dark wash in the recesses would help quite a bit. You could also try some texturing or details to fix the "flatness" of it. Is this the appropriate use of the "texture" pots from GW paints? I bought a pot of brown "texture" paint and everything I've used it on makes it look like poo poo. Am I supposed to be using texture on similar colors, or is this supposed to make things look covered in muck?
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# ¿ Nov 12, 2012 16:54 |
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crime fighting hog posted:You paint it on the base to look like sand. I've heard it doesn't work so hot though. S.J. posted:Wha? Texture paints are for basing. This makes a lot more sense
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# ¿ Nov 12, 2012 17:00 |
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My goal now is to make my figures look as good in pictures as they do when you can't so easily see the mistakes I'm trying highlighting here along with shading and trying to use black as a way to frame details instead of as a main color. Ideas, or things to try on my next mini?
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2012 05:02 |
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LumberingTroll posted:I Think I need help, I have way to much sitting around, and no time to work on any of it That room is loving impressive
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2012 20:57 |
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Question about the primer that comes in pots- Is this meant for touchups on spray primer jobs or can you prime a whole mini with it? I don't have a good place to go spraypainting.
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2012 23:49 |
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How long is normal before you make an irresponsible purchase for the sake of this hobby
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2012 03:56 |
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When you have a box of like 12 of the same dude in 2 poses, how do you go about making them look different? I'd like every single one of my miniatures to have their own personality but I'm having difficulty putting personality on this dwarf: Not to mention it being pretty loving sloppy despite my best efforts. Taking pictures is actually becoming a great way for me to double check my work for stray paint. I'm going to touch this guy up of course but what are some ways to make 12 different models feel like 12 different characters? Or should they be faceless cannon fodder?
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2012 15:21 |
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I'm getting to a point where I'm thinking order of operation is inside, outside, shade, detail, highlight. Is this more or less what you do, or is it different for everyone?
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# ¿ Nov 15, 2012 20:56 |
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richyp posted:8) Cut model from temporary base and stick onto a pre-painted base.
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# ¿ Nov 15, 2012 21:43 |
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Just sayin but in this past few days this has already become the most responsive and helpful thread I've used in a long time. Thanks for the tips! Do you flock your bases before you stick the minis on?
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# ¿ Nov 15, 2012 23:21 |
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The Dark Project posted:At first I was like... Thanks for making me feel a lot better about my recent purchases.
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# ¿ Nov 16, 2012 16:03 |
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Bad highlighting and a little sloppy paint aside, which I'll fix, I'm really proud of this lil guy! Finally assembling it after all that painting was totally satisfying. Not so proud of my bank statement since a week ago.
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# ¿ Nov 17, 2012 13:50 |
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:This owns. Thanks!! Pierzak posted:Yep. The lines could use some touching up, but the uneven surface is actually awesome, reminds me of an old warship repainted dozens of times. It's a Ghordson Driller from Warmachine mercs faction Furnace highlight update!! I'm trying to make these guys look like they're just itching to gently caress you up signalnoise fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Nov 17, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 17, 2012 20:10 |
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DarkDobe posted:Is anyone here interested in buying my Tau or my friend's Space Wuffs? You can PM me with any physically larger items, I want minis purely for painting purposes and don't care what game they're for. edit: I picked up some of that BSI super thin glue in the blue label bottle from the recommendation in this thread recently. Holy poo poo that is no joke. edit edit: Mini of the night- attempting to highlight and shade cloth Faces are hard VVVVVVVVVVVVVV Done! It does look a bit better now yeah signalnoise fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Nov 18, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 18, 2012 06:17 |
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That's awesome! For the screens do you print stuff out and glue it down or what?
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2012 17:56 |
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I've realized I have bought more miniatures than I have storage. Is Sabol still the best brand for minis cases?
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2012 20:42 |
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Crowleraptor posted:So i thought i would share what i have slowly been working on between my two jobs and blowing all my money on a pile of plastic crack that builds up in the corner of my room. I really really wish I could paint that cleanly and evenly.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2012 15:14 |
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Flipswitch posted:God I hate painting skin, guys I got some questions on it though, here: The way I can get eyes to look ok is to take the eye in 3 steps. First do the eye color. Wait for that to dry and then put the whites to the side of it, covering up the original dot of color until it's the size/shape you want. Let the white dry. Then cover the white with your flesh tone until it's the size/shape you want. Oh what Forza has taught me Too bad I still can't shade for crap to make the rest of it look good
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2012 18:00 |
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ineptmule posted:Making your own seems cool and all but seriously, Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil are definitely great washes. As good or better indeed. Do you use premade washes directly from the bottle? Is that what the mix is supposed to be like? This is all a small sample size but I have used P3, Reaper, and Citadel paints so far. P3 seems good out of the pot no matter what I use. Reaper needs to be shaken a bunch but seems good out of the pot. Citadel has a hugely varying composition from pot to pot which goes from dry as gently caress to perfect excepting their shades and glazes, which seem great. I have to thin them a lot but I'm not sure if I should be thinning them in a bottle or if thinning them on my palette is good enough. Either way I'm sick and loving tired of paints being in pots anyway so I'll probably transfer every paint I have over to a dropper. I've spilled seriously like 5 bucks worth of paint in my first week. Edit: Also will Simple Green cut through Testors Dullcote and completely strip a finished mini or will I be irreversibly loving up a model if I do this? signalnoise fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Nov 20, 2012 |
# ¿ Nov 20, 2012 18:56 |
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Are there any good ways to get cyanoacrylate off your skin? My hands look like zombie hands, and the slickness is making me all butterfingers.
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# ¿ Nov 21, 2012 18:34 |
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Thank you so so so much.
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# ¿ Nov 21, 2012 19:03 |
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Time to spraypaint some fruity pebbles and toss that poo poo on
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# ¿ Nov 22, 2012 09:42 |
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8 Warjacks and a shitload of infantry later, I've worn out the collet on my pin vise, and it won't hold a bit now. Anyone have any kind words for this dremel? http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-1100-N-25-7-2-Volt-Lithium-Ion/dp/B002BAHF7I/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1353741785&sr=1-1 It looks like it would be perfect for this kind of work especially because it goes as low as 5000 rpm.
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2012 08:24 |
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What is the purpose of mixing medium, etc.. when it comes to mixing your own paint combinations for later use?
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2012 07:07 |
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stabbington posted:useful poo poo Is there anything I can add to a wash to reduce its surface tension? Alcohol maybe?
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2012 08:02 |
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I don't know how I read that multiple times and missed that specific phrase
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2012 08:15 |
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How in the world do you paint a miniature with an airbrush? Wouldn't it be basically impossible to do without loving up details? I suppose this is just for big flat surfaces or something, or for base layers?
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2012 17:32 |
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Caution stripes are awesome, it really lets people know that guns are dangerous
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2012 08:35 |
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Pierzak posted:P3 Formula. Haven't used them, apparently they're very good for shading but their metallics are poo poo. Apparently are ink-based instead of pigment-based like GW/Vallejo. P3 being ink-based would explain a lot to me about their consistency. I recently got back into painting and tried GW, Reaper, and P3. Reaper is my pick because they use dropper bottles, but as far as the actual ease of use on the paints, P3 felt the best.
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# ¿ Dec 2, 2012 12:00 |
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Someone help me stop using metallics
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# ¿ Dec 4, 2012 04:59 |
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# ¿ May 21, 2024 18:22 |
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LoG posted:That looks good, if you haven't done it already throw some blue wash on the silver bits and some black or brown wash on the copper bits. The only blue anything I have is some Reaper HD Dragon Blue and P3 Exile blue. Can that be thinned enough to be a blue wash? Which one should I use?
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# ¿ Dec 4, 2012 19:46 |