|
Big Willy Style posted:I love Farseer Bugeyes and your paintjob is fantastic. I love the broad yet smooth strokes and the vibrant (yet not primary colors) hues you used. Oldschool Ulthwe is awesome. Download Irfanview. It's free and is an extremely small, fast program that can be used to very quickly crop, resize, and compress photos. The thing I hate worst is photographing an army and Irfanview speeds it along a bit. http://www.irfanview.com/ Khadhul posted:Does anyone have any pro-tips for painting middle eastern, native american and asian skin tones? I want my IG to be multicultural, and I've pretty much got caucasian and african skin tones down. I'm pretty much lost on how to even start painting other skintones though. Years ago I did some Tallarn that had multiple skin tones. As I recall, Snakebite Leather makes a good base for arid/desert peoples skin tones, just wash gently with Devlann Mud and then use Snakebite Leather to touch up the nose/cheekbones. I don't remember how I did the Asian tones, Iyanden Darksun might be a good start, it'll take lots of ink and then lightening it to make it look right. Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 19:41 on May 5, 2011 |
#
¿
May 5, 2011 19:38
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 07:53 |
|
|
FROOOOOOOOG posted:Took some better-ish pictures of last month's Oath. Probably need to re-do the edge highlights; they appear to have been completely erased by the sunlight. These look great, and I can see the highlights in the last photo. I think you could save a lot of time by basing the models in that grey color and tracing the crevices with Badab Black. How many painstaking coats of gray does it take to do these, and still have a bit of undercoat show through?
|
|
#
¿
May 6, 2011 19:34
|
|
|
No painter has an armature-steady head, there are stances that steady the hands. I set my elbows on my thighs behind the knees or with the elbows pressed against my sides. Pressing the heels of my hands together, I hold the model by the base in one hand and the paintbrush in the other. This makes a tight foundation to reduce shaking, a sort of bipod.
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2011 22:37
|
|
|
Holy poo poo, those RAFM minis are goony as gently caress.Inverse Icarus posted:Assuming you guys use sealer or whatever to keep the paint from chipping/scratching, do you do that before or after you add grass/whatever? I varnish before basing/flocking. I've found that the spray loses any coherency over the rough surface of the sand/grass and does not provide much if any seal. It doesn't hurt anything, though, it just means you have to wait longer to finish the base. It takes about four minutes in front of a box fan for varnish to set, it takes at least ten to fifteen before white glue is set.
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2011 16:07
|
|
|
Mormon Star Wars posted:I'm starting to get into painting again but haven't really done any in a few years. With that in mind, I'm kinda hesitant practicing on some of the models I intend to use (A box of chaos space marines and some clanrats / gors bitz I was going to use on them and some Alkemy boxes I picked up for cheap). If you're thinking that far ahead you're not going to be so bad a painter that you'll want to throw out the models afterward. If you're willing to strip someone else's paint, why not strip your own if you're dissatisfied with the practice run? Base coat with spraypaint- probably black- use a brush to fill in the gaps. After it dries, thin your paints and get started. I'll post my first bumble bee colored Marine if I can find it.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2011 21:23
|
|
|
How are you holding it? The swivel end rests in your palm while your fingers wrap around the shaft, index and thumb finger turning the drill end. The other hand should be holding the piece that you're drilling.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2011 23:41
|
|
|
GoodBee posted:This page needs more Hordes. Have a Skorne Cyclops Shaman. That's cool a gently caress. Every game would benefit from having more cyclopes.
|
|
#
¿
May 30, 2011 21:29
|
|
|
WhiteOutMouse posted:The sealant that this thread seems to almost unanimously endorse is "Testors" brand. Coat with gloss first, top with dullcote after it dries. Dullcote alone isn't that tough and it actually makes all the surfaces (including metallic paints) flat. When I painted an Iron Warriors army years ago I was getting comments like, "The metal parts seem shiny yet they're not." Also, once in a while Testors swill spray out a translucent white layer. Don't panic! I have no idea what's going on, but waiting until it dries and adding a layer of glosscote will fix it. It may be related to cold temperatures. I've also been using the Krylon acrylic "Crystal clear" varnish and it works well. Model Masters is practically identical, it works fine. There's also some kind of NASCAR brand for model cars that does the trick. HardCoil posted:Can anybody recommend some kind of custom bases for keeping track of wounds and whatnot? I put little skulls that would rotate on a pin axis onto a base back in the day. I do not recommend it: characters will most often take wounds when surrounded by models in combat, or in shooting surrounded by their own dudes, either way it's impossible to reach the base and manipulate tiny parts without disturbing the game. I recommend putting the wound counter on top of a backpack or banner pole where it can be easily reached.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 1, 2011 19:50
|
|
|
Real hurthling! posted:just toss a spare die at the models feet and use it to record wounds as he takes them. Helps to use dice that are a different color than the ones you are rolling. That's what I do, but HardCoil was asking about the perils of wound counters mounted into a base. If a wound counter, mounted high up, could be done properly it would be less of a hassle than a floating die on the board.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 3, 2011 06:12
|
|
|
MasterSlowPoke posted:Also pick up a bit of "The Masters" brush cleaner. I've had a 1/4th of an ounce last me a few years and the poo poo is literally magic. Thanks for posting this. I discovered it last year, was intrigued, but decided to look for reviews online before buying it. I since forgot about it all together. My brushes are in terrible shape and need this kind of thing.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 5, 2011 18:04
|
|
|
Inverse Icarus posted:What palettes do you all use? My tabletop. I recently pulled almost all the layered paint off of it in one go. It's about four mm thick and 6"x25". It's nice how acrylics dry into a plasticine substance that doesn't bond well to finished, smooth surfaces.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2011 02:24
|
|
|
The quartered tanks are coming alone well. The best part about a patterned color scheme like that is that less detail is needed to make them look "finished." The quartering is so bold that it distracts the eye from surfaces that aren't highlighted. If it were only black or only yellow with the same amount of detailing it wouldn't look right. The lines are clean and the quartering looks symmetrical.Arlaharen posted:Some new stuff I painted. Frogs are pretty cool and more companies should make them. Holy poo poo, the transition from bone to blue, and the clarity of the spots. Wanna quote it on every page. 
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2011 21:38
|
|
|
Revener posted:A friend of mine saw some of my old 40k minis and wants me to paint him some for display. She's paying all the associated fees i.e. minis, paints, etc, but I want to keep it cheap, so I'm not going to be lazily buying Citadel brushes or paints for it this time. What can everyone recommend as far as paints/brushes that will do what I need them to do but won't break the bank? I buy lovely, low quality brushes with a discerning eye. Brand name isn't important here, you just have to be able to recognize a brush that can maintain a fine point and is cheap without having plastic bristles.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2011 10:08
|
|
|
 Stop ingesting paint, most pigments are highly toxic and can actually cause you to develop an allergy to them, or worse. GW brushes definitely aren't worth it. They're noticeably better than the bottom quality hobby store brushes but for an exponentially higher cost. They're worth maybe $3/4 a brush but sell for, what, $12 a piece? Whether my estimate is right or not, they cost far more than they're worth.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2011 00:15
|
|
|
crime fighting hog posted:I will never stop shoving pots of mechite red into my mouth like a loving woodchipper. Cadmium red is the worst. The Worst Thing.  Rapey Joe Stalin posted:... I got a roll of Javis Countryside Scenics cork from Ebay, but it's way too fine and smooth. Any suggestions ? Try using low grit sandpaper, or scraping the high surface on something like a sidewalk or brick wall. Real hurthling! posted:devlan mud smells like toes All the paints smell bad, Foundation and the washes smell like cold sick.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2011 18:14
|
|
|
You poor saps, drying out your brushes using things. I just squeeze the bristles out with my finger tips.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2011 15:09
|
|
|
Miles O'Brian posted:Theres no need to be cryptic - post that poo poo. The rules are free on the GW website so there is no Copyright still applies to stuff that GW posts online. They get to do whatever they want with their copyright, we don't. This only matters so far as GW cares to monitor a forum and file a motion based on something it sees, though, which it isn't doing.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2011 23:30
|
|
issue.
|
Inverse Icarus posted:My buddy and I have convinced our girlfriends to try painting models. I have had two past girlfriends try this. One chose a Mordheim Dregg to paint, giving him turquoise skin and silver (mythril silver) hair. The other chose a Cherub to paint (never put a brush to it) and a single tallarn autocannon, which she painted the trim gold. Mistakes, I've made a few. 
|
|
#
¿
Jun 21, 2011 01:27
|
|
|
Cross post from the oath thread:Post 9-11 User posted:Finally finished this one, properly, and took decent photos. Now to catch up on the rest. I've got some half-assed, last-minute completed oaths to work on, I'll post results when they're done.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2011 15:46
|
|
|
Oxford Comma posted:... And when I highlight, am I just using the lightest possible touch on the areas that are raised or edged? Even for things like shirts? Depends on the visual style you want. I highlight long edges that wouldn't catch natural highlights to accentuate a detail and add break up the uniformity of a monocrhome area. Other painters rely on lowlights and don't highlight anything other than power weapons:  Color choice is key, too. 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2011 14:40
|
|
|
After hours of head scratching, drawing plans, and redrawing plans, I've figured out how to turn $2 toy trucks into attack bikes. They're much too big, but it beats paying $35 a pop for the fuckers. Here's a work in progress: HONK HONK!  I've got a bigger toy truck with a Marine riding in the back, representing a Landspeeder.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2011 04:07
|
|
|
MinionOfCthulhu posted:Catching up on the thread, only 1,600 posts or so to go! Scibor minis. http://landomisfittoys.blogspot.com/2011/09/scibor-adeptus-custodes-model-review.html Should be somewhere on this page: http://www.sciborminiatures.com/en_,shop.php?group=70
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2011 22:31
|
|
|
Limp Wristed Limey posted:Really not happy with this one, the cloak is awful and the highlights on the helmet dont look good either. Anyone have any recommendations for highlighting Dark Angels Green? I dont want to go full Goblin or Snot green. The cloak is fine, you just need to fix the spottiness of the dark edges. A bit of brown wash on the edges of the red emblem should do it. The armor is fine, it's just subtle. If you want to highlight it I never got away with not mixing paint- a 50/50 mix of Dark Angels Green and Snot Green. Is it just me or did you put exceptional detail into the banner topper?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 10, 2011 20:21
|
|
|
TastyAvocado posted:Kool Kroot Paintballer Krew.  Silhouette posted:Seriously when did you all turn into mennonites Saying something is bad doesn't make someone a prude just because the bad thing involves nudity.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2011 01:52
|
|
|
Limp Wristed Limey posted:Still not happy with it, but he looks a bit better now. Onto ebay he goes: Lookin' good.  You're going to get less than market value, though, since eBay and the economy are in the shitter.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2011 05:24
|
|
|
DarthDoubleMarth posted:I've started to paint my dudes from battle for skull pass. These are great, but the eyes on that ogre ... 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2011 10:41
|
|
|
Ketchup and mustard weapons would look pretty gross. 3rd Edition had some very ugly color combinations like that- bright, primary red color weapons galore. I would go for boltgun metal weapons, black weapons, or boltgun with red barrels.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 23, 2011 00:41
|
|
|
EVEN IN DEATH I STILL sidewalk SURF.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 23, 2011 14:59
|
|
|
Baruch Obamawitz posted:
 for using purple, looks awesome.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2011 20:55
|
|
|
UnsubRedun posted:The riot scheme looks rad as gently caress, their uniform makes the regulars look like chumps which is how it should be. The striping reminds me of Combine insignia. The shield looks good, too.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2011 10:48
|
|
|
Lethemonster posted:What stuff are you guys using for your fake grass? It looks so much nicer than the orange and green bumfluff GW and so on put out It's called "static grass" and can be found at most hobby shops that deal in model trains. I think Gale Force 9 makes it, too, so check your local warhams dealer.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2011 17:48
|
|
|
Lethemonster posted:I know it's called static grass but everyone's here looks like actual tiny grass whereas the only stuff I can seem to find just looks like fuzz from any distance. For some reason finding grass around here that's not green is easy, it's just all the green stuff that looks like rubbish. Your eyes do not deceive you, what you're talking about is called flock and it doesn't look so hot.  Flock/  ? Static grass. I've never used it, though I want to. While searching for images I saw an applicator- apparently you actually have to electrostatically charge it to get it to stand up properly.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2011 19:48
|
|
|
AndyElusive posted:Your dudes look good, but painting GW metallics takes patience (except their gunmetal tones). Gold doesn't coat well, getting an opaque coat is requires multiple thin coats. Alternatively, the area can be coated with Mythril Silver and then washed with a few coats of Gryphone Sepia, that works surprisingly well.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 1, 2011 16:37
|
|
|
The suits look awesome. Also: Q: Bhyo posted:Why did you give a battlesuit a dick? A: 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2011 19:10
|
|
|
Baruch Obamawitz posted:
Belial ...  I hate to give such generic advice, but a wash is in order. I would normally put some kind of brown wash (gryphone sepia or devlan mud) over orange, but it is so bright that badab black might be in order. Tone that poo poo down, wait for it to dry, then repair the black areas. Once it is tidied up you'll be better able to figure out what to do next (I would suggest highlighting the edges of the black areas with gray first).After a wash or two, you can highlight the orange areas with the color you used to base them.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2011 01:22
|
|
what the gently caress do I do to edge highlight macharius solar orange
|
crime fighting hog posted:I need to see more of this Yeah, man, Aragorn sneaking passed those geese owns.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 16, 2011 18:32
|
|
|
Edit: I'm guessing crackle shouldn't be watered down like other paints, or needs to be applied in a very thin layer for minis. The coat is supposed to tear itself apart as it dries, which isn't easy to do on the tiny surface of a miniature (I looked up some results and its generally used on larger scale car models and such).Kommando posted:Still trying to think of what to paint my Devastator, Urbie, Grand Titan etc etc. Do you want to paint them the same as the blue guy there? He looks real good, just needs a contrasting color like white, orange, etc. Maybe some racing stripes in those colors. 
Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Nov 17, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Nov 17, 2011 17:44
|
|
|
Ularg posted:I'm trying my hand at basing. The first two look ace, especially the second one. Black rimmed bases can look great, but I prefer to avoid any visual que that will trick the eye into thinking the bases are merely base coated.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2011 17:52
|
|
|
I've been deeply depressed for a long time, I'm finishing the DE Warrior squad that's been sitting half-painted on my table for over a month.  Mah girlfriend uploaded to me a copy of Look Me In The Eye: My Life With Asperger's, so I have it playing now.I'm listening to a book about Asperger's while painting my space dollies.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2011 23:34
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 07:53 |
|
|
Manifest posted:This is the sort of content that should be in the OP. This American Life is amazing, I usually listen to NPR to get through commutes rather than painting on most days. When painting on the weekends the radio is usually playing something unlistinable like Prairie Home Companion.  Dominion posted:So, I'm doing up my salamanders. Anyone got some good tutorials or tricks for freehand flame designs? Unless you're trying to clone the same flame pattern exactly on each badge, flames are easy. Start with a dark red, highlight to red, orange, and white. Make it a bit wavy, paint in the lines. Experiment a bit and post some photos! Post 9-11 User fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Nov 30, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2011 06:39
|
|