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War Eagle posted:So I just found a cheap copy of Dust Tactics, and though I have absolutely no painting experience whatsoever, I think I want to paint these figures. I'll probably leave the walkers alone for now, but I do want to paint the units. Go for distinctive. Don't bother with stuff like SS Camo or anything, just go straight for the movie style Grey Clothed SS colors. I would recommend heading to the Flames of War site where they have extensive painting guides under this section: http://www.flamesofwar.com/Default.aspx?tabid=110&kb_cat_id=27 Which will even give you what Vallejo paints to choose if you so desire. And here, have some stuff that I've posted other places on the internet but will post in this thread because I feel like it (and to keep you off Warseer):  Click here for the full 640x480 image.  Click here for the full 640x480 image.
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Dec 23, 2010 00:01
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Fast_Food_Knight posted:I got a sweet gravity fed airbrush and mini compressor from hobbycraft for £120 if any UK goons are looking for a christmas present to buy yourselves. I have a couple more stupid questions though as I like you guys more than google. I've been told to thin with Windex. And yes, it's the propelant, you need special water based spray to use on foam.
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Dec 24, 2010 02:00
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but I don't think khorne plays a clean game 
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Sab669 posted:Holy poo poo, gently caress painting yellow. I go Bubonic Brown and apply successive hightlights to get to snakebite leather. Then I throw down some sunburst yellow. If you want to get real fast and dirty just undercoat white and use Vallejo yellow ink highlighted with sunburst. (very average)Example using my Blood Dragon Vampire hero:  Click here for the full 640x480 image.
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Dec 28, 2010 02:34
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ChewyLSB posted:I see. I guess its not a super big deal if I gently caress it up, not too bad to get another paint can. What size brush are you using? I do all my fine detail work with a 5/0 or a 4/0. If you have GW brushed IIRC their fine detail brush is a 3/0. You should also (standard painting advice these days it would seem) devlan mud that sucker something fierce. All your colors for that menoth scheme (with the possible exception of silver) are shaded with brown (sepia would also work but I don't use that much except for gold and asian skin). A wash will also help with blending the fine details and colors, and make things like the edging on the pads smoothly transition into the pads themselves. Here's a quick example, note the shirt and the pants/boots for what I was talking about : http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/dWMSw8vqJhH4
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Jan 6, 2011 03:01
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Red Herring posted:
Coat the armor in heavy gloss varnish, that always looks good on dark red armor. I don't know how that would effect the OSL though. Also I have a strange question, does anyone own the Firefly/Serenity Christmas Ornaments? Are they sufficiently detailed/painted and could you repaint them without obscuring detail? I'm mainly curious about the disguised Serenity one as I DESPERATELY want one for my Battlefleet Gothic fleet.
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Jan 18, 2011 00:03
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I should really get some pictures of my bright pink Hello Kitty themed Khador battle box that I painted when I was going to become one of those demo guys. I have since pretty much given up on PP but I still proudly display those.
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Jan 28, 2011 08:50
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You can also use ProCreate since it holds detail well and is very rigid when dry. It's also extremely light. And if you want to test your molds before you use hard resin you can make a mold out of ProCreate and then cast a miniature/bit/whatever in ProCreate.
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Feb 20, 2011 02:56
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Galaga Galaxian posted:Threw together another tio of Ork Escorts outta Skrap and gubbins tonight. Brings me up to a total of 14 Escorts (and two kroozas). More than enough for 1000 point games, and I've assembled one 1500 fleet list that uses a dozen (the minimum amounts required to get a 'Uge Ship really), but since, with the ork fleet list I'm using, tiddla skwadrons with leadership 5 or 6 get a free escort, I suppose I need to build two more. Still, the end is in sight, at least for the escorts. Good thing too, I'm really running low on suitable bits to make escorts out of, and I'm now worried about being able to scrounge bits and parts to assemble three or four more capital ships. Oh well, I'll figure something out. Here is the pic.  Hi-five scratch built Ork buddy.
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Mar 24, 2011 03:21
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The Saddest Robot posted:I've been viewing some painting videos/tutorials where the painter sprays a coat of gloss varnish over the model prior to adding some washes, followed by a matte varnish. Does anyone know the reason for this? I think in some cases it was because the painter was using oil based washes and those can eat away at acrylics but other painters were using acrylic washes so I'm not sure. It can cut down on that really dull matte look some washes give. I've done it to cut down on the amount of metallic washes I have to do on Rackham-style armor because it preserves some of the shinyness. I didn't know it was a terribly common technique tho. The only time I've ever seen it done was on my friends Tau army, where he would base, spray wash, highlight, spray because the large amount of brown wash he used on the sepia base color would look very dull and dusty (which is naturally not very Tau).
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Mar 24, 2011 18:34
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The Oldest Man posted:What's a good way to set up a bunch of 15mm minis so that I can prime and then batch paint them in a big group before basing? With the 28mm stuff I'd just base them first but tiny guys on multi-fig stands...  + 
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Mar 25, 2011 07:25
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So I just picked up a new commission to do some miniatures based on this and this. I'm all down for crazy sculpting and painting commissions, but I'm a bit stumped on something: I have all the parts for proto, he's heavily custom, I used parts from a guardian as an armature. His chaingun/hand cannon thingy is gonna be from the obliterator sprue, head from a chaos marauder horseman. You know, general kitbash stuff. What I'm stuck on is his goddamn shield. It would be easy to get a similar bit, but again I have to stress needing a GW bit as base. Right now I see my options are basically to search endlessly for a random piece of plastic that is the right shape or cut two chaos warrior shields in half to make a loosely ovular thing. I'd like it if anyone knew of an actual GW bit (I'm ATTEMPTING to make this tournament legal) I could use since this is going to be a counts as autarch. Last resort I can use the terminator captain storm shield which I have, but I was sort of planning on selling that sprue (or trading it etc). In addition, does anyone know of a company that makes a heroic scale classic American/British style motorcycle? Ideally something close to a Bonneville or a R71. The bike can be any company because its going to be a decorative base object.
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Jul 15, 2011 08:11
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Indolent Bastard posted:Yes that's the one. Funny I thought it was part of a game...whatever. Thanks. What was that about blowup doll faces?  I have an extensive Mordheim Amazon warband that has a bunch of Shadowforge figures in it (they were cheap). The quality is pretty varied:  for boobieshttp://imgur.com/XvMBU http://imgur.com/HxiDS They aren't that bad sculpts, the real problem is their feet. They do however pale in comparison to Reapers selection of gratuitous boobery: http://imgur.com/3WZqu http://imgur.com/E3yVP Despite what these pictures may imply, I do not collect large amounts of topless miniatures for my creepy basement lair. Most of my amazons, and ALL of my pirates except for that mermaid have appropriate coverage. It is however, really hard to find minis of Amazons and Tribal women who aren't busty topless titmonsters.
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Jul 25, 2011 05:44
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big enough.
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White undercoating will make you a good painter, black will make you lazy. Each one has its place, but white is what teaches you how to layer well and about the thickness of paints. It teaches you coverage because you cant rely on black crevices and cracks covering for your poor coverage skills. That's just my opinion anyway. But I was a horrible painter until I switched to white undercoating from black. The other thing was reading the old bright red GW how to paint book.
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Aug 4, 2011 00:09
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Not a viking posted:Actually, I was thinking I could have the base dark grey but then add snow to most of it would that work on these? The best way to do really simple and good looking snow is like this: -Basecoat the base in something blue/white like spacewolf grey. -Apply a very thin coat of water effects gel (or if you're poor/crazy elmers school gel) -Now dunk the base in some baking soda and shake off the excess, the baking soda should absorb the gel and become a darkened grey color -Now either continue the above step until the soda ceases to be that color after shaking or apply a thin layer of modeling snow. I've used both water effects gel and elmers for this process and there is an upside to both. The upside to gel is that its slow drying so you can correct mistakes, it dries in a VERY thin layer so it doesn't puff up your base and its less prone to "strange accidents" than the gel. The gel on the other hand is better at creating the illusion of deep snow due to its naturally blue shade, is less watery so it requires less coats of baking soda and/or modeling snow and dries much quicker. Its downside is that very rarely it does strange things like peel and its very very very sticky and its therefor harder to correct your mistakes with it. Ideally you'll produce bases like these (these are some models that I was experimenting with this base technique on): Too much model snow: http://imgur.com/DaatL this one doesn't have enough: http://imgur.com/mfk1L This one has a light white drybrush on it: http://imgur.com/7j0ie And this is one where I tried basing the model with a standard brown dirt style, then applying a wite drybrush and finally the basing technique above to it: http://imgur.com/VCdE2 Unfortunately my camera is broken, because I have a bunch of marauders who are based this way and look way better than those elves do. If you are going for little tufts of snow on bases you can accomplish that with just baking soda and elmers. If you apply more soda to the middle of the tufts than the outside it will create the look of melting snow nicely, if you want to have little chunks of ice you can use rock salt of all things to make little ice crystals in your snow piles. This is by someone who is much better at this than I am, but the water effects gel is what makes it look so good: http://www.coolminiornot.com/278844?browseid=107276 El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Sep 7, 2011 |
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Sep 7, 2011 00:55
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thespaceinvader posted:Play D&D with me plz. http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/crossbow Reaper's search engine is your friend for D&D character mini's. http://www.thewarstore.com/product50348.html My favorite crossbowman mini. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 11:31 on Sep 20, 2011 |
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Sep 20, 2011 11:21
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Applying a dark blue glaze to those eyes would make them look a little less harsh if you're worried about the highlight being too harsh.
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Sep 27, 2011 03:22
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Oxford Comma posted:Is PVA the same thing as white glue? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate
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Oct 9, 2011 14:25
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Oxford Comma posted:On another note, what's the best bang-for-your-buck regarding magnetic bases? I plan to store my minis on cookie sheets. moths posted:So wood glue = school glue. Thanks Wikipedia!
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Oct 9, 2011 17:24
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Post 9-11 User posted:Lookin' good. Eh, it depends on the mini. I sold a painted Bloodcrusher not to long ago for quite a bit more than I paid for it. That's rare tho. It's waaaaay easier with small mini's. Because if you're selling a twelve dollar guy for twenty five dollars there are a lot of gamers who will gladly pay 13 bucks to not have to paint some complicated finicky miniature. I might be a bit biased in this regard however, because I can speed paint to a high standard and never have trouble with some things people do (skin especially) so my time to money ratio is a bit higher than people who take many hours to produce above TTQ level minis. It also helps to play a lot of games and know which players are lazy butts. Demons in 40k and Fantasy are a huge one. Its an army that attracts a lot of power gamer types who are more interested in meeting painting requirements for tournaments than actually painting the minis themselves. I find this in great contrast to Space Marines, where a great deal of players get really into making their own chapters, symbols and such and even if they aren't that good at painting will want to do everything themselves (I think this is a good thing for the hobby, honestly). For this reason I find space marine conversions (unpainted Scibor like stuff) sell really well. But unless you have a personal press mold and resin casting setup you're not gonna break even on one offs. But yeah, so you can still ebay painted models for decent scratch if you can speed paint well (or have loads of free time) and have a bit of a pulse finger for what specific models people want.
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Oct 13, 2011 05:45
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You're going to get less than market value, though, since eBay and the economy are in the shitter.
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Bhyo posted:Im going to go with no. Reads straight like a post lifted from warseer and the only thing that makes me believe its his own opinion is he called it finecast not 'finecrap' I dunno man, I've started buying the metal versions of poo poo I want on the ebays. I bought six finecast things so far and they have all been of much lower quality than the metal versions. I really need to bust out my camera to demonstrate because my Araby Maneater has a serious case of gangsta lean due to a weirdly cast leg. And cleaning the flash off of the finecast stuff is much more finicky than the metals, I find the finecast has a tendency to not smooth as well when you file or knife it and some of the very thin parts are much more prone to breaking. Plus you cant pin small things as well. I will say I like it loads better than the Privateer Press stuff of a similar nature, but I always prefer soft metals over any kind of resin-like substance. Its certainly not as bad as the internet makes it seem. But the level of quality has decreased some, and the new medium is by nature less sturdy and workable.
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Oct 14, 2011 19:13
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No army shots but I have pics of my Mordheim gang       
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Oct 14, 2011 20:35
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Technically its Pokey, I'm not sure why it looks like a U in that picture. And its because he does a lot o' pokin'
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Oct 14, 2011 20:54
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Quick color scheme question my good gents: I have three potential models I can use for a combat Vampire for my Vampire Counts army. He's going in a unit of ghouls or grave guard and I want to paint the unit to match his scheme. Should I paint them to match: Yellow Cape Lord  Vampirized Warrior Priest:  Or paint up a third lord in a dark red scheme.
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Nov 8, 2011 01:06
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You don't always have to prime, but its a good idea. I never prime my warmachine jacks when I paint them because they're just gonna be colored metal anyways. You have to wash them with soap and a toothbrush though, otherwise the mold release will make the inks and washes that I put on them go on patchy.
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Nov 15, 2011 01:02
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SRM posted:Primer is what paint sticks on to. If you plan to put any paint on them whatsoever, you should definitely prime. If not, look forward to paint chipping. This is for the majority untrue as long as you seal things correctly. What causes the majority of paint flaking is the mold release agent that is put on models when they are sprung from the mold. I've been painting both with and without primer for over a decade at this point and have seen little to no paint chipping on models as long as they were correctly washed before painting.
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Nov 15, 2011 02:24
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Hal Gill username posted:Pictures in need of Devlan Mud wash. You should invest in some Devlan Mud, it would make all of these look better. Especially the Tharn, since brown is a good wash for all those clolors (red, orange, skintone, etc). It'll also make the wayfarer look boss, it'll even look decent on the green cloak. Your concept for the stone weapons is good but you need to make it less stark. I'd recommend doing a dark grey base followed by some drybrushes and topped with the cracks in pure white. As a circle player a couple pots of Devlan Mud and Badab Black will get you very far. I paint both historicals and fantasy (wood elves in this case) that use the same color pallets and I those things will make your stuff look much better. If you want to paint a lot of gold several coats of Gryphone Sepia over mithril or boltgun will produce really vibrant looking gold. It would also be good if you were to use it on, say, the eyes on the gorax, but light coats of Devlan can also shade yellow.
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Nov 21, 2011 04:59
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Bad Munki posted:Kickin' rad poo poo I'll warn you, after a while the fog can break down paint if you run it to much. My friend and I built a table for Crimson Skies that used fog like that to simulate clouds. It looked really good but after some serious play the painted buildings we had put on the board began to peel.
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Dec 2, 2011 08:13
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Torabi posted:Gaaaah, I hate applying washes. Everybody says "USE DEVLAN MUD". Well I do and it just turns into poo poo and I have to paint it all over since it turns the Imperial Guard's beige clothes into brown. A) Highlight after you wash. B) Remember to shake the washes before you use them to avoid excessive pigment concentration. C) You can always use more wash, so start with a very light coat and work up from there.
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Dec 3, 2011 23:50
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I use Folk Art for my black, white and dark brown. It works pretty good. Their gold paint can be useful for very specific kinds of gold, but the flake size is a bit too large to make it overall worth while.
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Jan 20, 2012 03:19
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Jcam posted:I'm totally lost when it comes to weathering the flat surfaces of a vehicle. I know to get the rust/drip/rain effect from edges and protruding parts of a vehicle (some watered down devlan mud and a little patience), and I can do battle damage like bullet holes, claw-marks and explosion marks, but I have no idea how to do the general weathering across the main surfaces of a tank. Here is an example: Thats done with what is probably VERY careful application of light washes and glazes. The dirt is most likely a weathering pigment, which is basically a rub on stuff that they sell for this kind of thing. Obviously its way easier with an airbrush.
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Jan 31, 2012 08:13
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Numlock posted:How does one get "Stone" type effects on stuff like walls? I cheat and use Krylon Make It Stone, which is a textured spray. Basically it makes any flat surface be textured well and drybrush better. Here's a guy making a bunker with it: http://swchq.co.uk/simple_bunker.php GW also used to sell a textured primer, but they stopped and I don't think any other company picked up the slack.
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Feb 8, 2012 01:50
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Whats the going rate for pretty well painted miniatures on ebay/warseer these days (I have good warseer rep, even if that place is a shithole)? I just need to downsize the hell out of my miniatures collection and I have a lot of random poo poo thats well painted but that I don't really like or care about. Here's three of the random dudes as an example:    I was assuming something in the ten to fifteen dollar range, is this accurate?
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Feb 8, 2012 03:25
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Mt. ORourke posted:This is This is a good tutorial that covers different kinds of desserts. Its for historicals/Flames of War but the basics are universal: http://www.flamesofwar.com/hobby.aspx?art_id=1744
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Feb 8, 2012 09:25
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KozmoNaut posted:http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/spray-paint/rust-oleum/specialty-fluorescent-pink-11oz-spray-paint-6pack-98510.html http://www.krylon.com/products/glitter_blast/
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Feb 8, 2012 11:39
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Oxford Comma posted:Yeah what is the consensus behind P3 paints? Great normal paints, dodgy metals. I buy my basics in large tubes from craft art and people, stuff like Black and White that I use a ton of. I just have so much GW paint that I rarely buy any other companies poo poo unless they have a color I don't have (Menoth white!).
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Feb 15, 2012 04:07
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lilljonas posted:Thanks for the positive feedback! I'm planning to pick up some Irregular Miniatures 6mm stuff to compare with, as they carry both Mongols and Chinese. And an starter army of 400 miniatures is 12 quid. I kid you not. I'm having such a huge dilemma here. On one hand I have always wanted to do Chinese wargaming and thats a very good price for some nice 6mm dudes. On the other hand, I sort of want to do a WHFB army so I can base it on All Men Are Brothers/Water Margin.
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Feb 16, 2012 01:01
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 Just sold my first painted miniature. Hello 12 dollars!
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Feb 16, 2012 06:55
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I guess I'm gonna finish this Khador army I started or something. Does anyone have a recipe for fake blood? Like, a LOT of fake blood that can drip off of things etc. I need to absolutely coat something in it.
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Feb 21, 2012 08:35
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stabbington posted:http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2010/05/tutorial-how-to-paint-blood.html The problem is that I need the blood to be less splatter like, almost like an ooze.
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Feb 21, 2012 09:26
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I like my mordheim gangs, especially my Pirates:
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Mar 7, 2012 06:52
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