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First head all the way. Angron is really, REALLY not the type of character to hide behind a helmet, especially not after ten thousand years as a Khornate daemon lord. To be honest, I'd probably be inclined to skip the goofy shoulder pad, too - which looks much worse with the second head than the first, it displaces the head to one side, which looks silly. As well as aesthetics, there's another reason why the second head bothers me: the helmet is way too new, and way too normal. It's a daemon primarch, and he's wearing a MKVII helmet. I thought the MKVII wasn't discovered for thousands of years after the Heresy. Plus, they should be (and in this case, he definitely is) way too big to fit in normal marine armour, so would have had individually-designed and fitted armour (often that they made themselves), so a basic helmet looks way too prosaic... That being said, it's a bloody brilliant model in general, but it has a few mildly irritating flaws. The armoured arm in general is a bit iffy, in particular, because its wrist armour doesn't really seem true/parallel.
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Apr 12, 2011 10:17
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Gotta love that. Massive armour everywhere else, but suuuure, you can chop my arm right off if you wanna, I don't mind. Stab me in the heart or lungs via the armpit? No problemo. Better assuming the shoulders are armour. For added interest, I'd be inclined to paint the bigger plates - the ones that are blue there - a warm colour to contrast with all that cool armour. Red, or gold, or even a strong reddish purple. But having them in a desaturated blue just makes them blend in with the armour.
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Apr 28, 2011 17:25
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artfulshrapnel posted:Interesting new project I've been working on. Designed a custom flying monster that I'm going to use as a flying hive tyrant replacement, and had it 3d printed. It's only been inked at this stage but I figured it was worth showing off to get feedback. drat, I've been wondering about 3D printed minis for ages... what sort of cost do you reckon for custom 30mm models? I'm thinking about made-to-order D&D character figures here.
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May 9, 2011 11:28
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Yeah, this is the impression that I have from reading up on stuff (there's a good thread in DIY and Hobbies about 3D printing, actually). I've seen some drat impressive detail, but nothing from easily-commercially-available sources at present. However, the idea of printing the bulky parts and rounding the details out with bought parts is one I hadn't thought of, and which is probably the most viable current method. 5 or 10 years from now though, who knows... That being said, the head of the mini shown there has some impressive detail already - and personally, I'd prefer something which is a little flat but has the accoutrements and general appearance of my character, than playing a dragonborn greatspear user with a human halberdier mini... I'd pay good money for that sort of thing. If I had any.
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May 9, 2011 12:24
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Looks pretty cool - but I guess the kicker is modelling. In that situation, I'd almost be inclined to work something up myself, but modelling is not my strong suit. What would shipping be, roughly? e: to UK, speed not specially an issue, but air freight definitely.
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May 9, 2011 19:26
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Sweet. Having a look over these, the res is pretty astonishing in places. http://www.shapeways.com/model/148756/terran_powered_infantry_squad.html?gid=mg in particular makes me think that with good painting, a mini made from that service, especially in the new ultra detailed material claiming to have 0.1mm resolution, would be perfectly fine. http://www.shapeways.com/model/41819/thief_miniature.html?gid=mg too. According to the dimensions, it's perfectly playable at 28mm, and the resolution is far better than what I would have expected. I could see a respectable business in custom-designed minis. Even bigger if there was a decent painted on board. I know having chatted to some guys in my D&D group there are plenty of people who would pay good money to have a custom mini. The issue, I guess, is that the startup costs are large - once you have working frameworks for the sorts of minis you'd like to produce, you could customise them fairly quickly, but getting a good set of frameworks together would take some time. My brain is now in gear on this, and I'll not be able to stop thinking about it for ages >.<
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May 9, 2011 19:38
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The only modelling software I ever tried was Blender, and it broke my brain on two very simple, very non-taxing models. I used it to get perspectives for awkward technical items in drawings. I wouldn't relish the idea of trying to model something for D&D. Not to mention that my processor would probably melt. But a man can dream. About having the money for this sort of thing, as much as anything >.<
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May 9, 2011 19:59
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I know, right? Four quid for a custom-designed mini. Yes please. Well, yes please once I am in gainful employment.
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May 9, 2011 20:47
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I was going to repost that myself... It's somehow unsurprising that the best things to do with the Dreadknight kit are kitbash it with non-imperial kits. Daemonknight rocks, as did DredOrk. I wonder about some unholy combination of dreadknight, defiler and daemon prince...
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May 20, 2011 17:26
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So, I was back at my parents' this weekend, looking at my old warhams (last touched around 10 years ago) - and I've been considering getting back into painting, mainly for D&D. Surprisingly (for me, anyway) various of my old paints are still liquid albeit somewhat settled out (the old-style pop-top paints all survived, the newer screw-tops dried out) - but all my brushes are beyond hosed, having as they do, no bristles left, at all. Can anyone suggest a decent UK vendor for brushes for someone who's not yet sure of his skill, and for whom it's definitely not yet worth investing in Winsor and Newton? Thanks in advance.
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Jun 11, 2011 17:28
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richyp posted:Do you have a Hobbycraft nearby? If so they sell the Pro-Arte range of brushes which come in miniature brush sizes for a reasonable price. Just grab a 000 or a suitably small one, and a 2-3 for basecoating. They do sell W&N 7's too if you're feeling ready to upgrade. I think I paid about £8 for the W&N 000 and £4 for the Pro-Arte size 3. quote:http://www.rosemaryandco.com is also a decent option for brushes if you're in the UK. Her Series 33 range is excellent and relatively cheap: around £3-4/brush for appropriate warham sizes. The website looks a bit amateur, but I didn't have any trouble with my order and it arrived quickly. Thanks - though, for some reason, I had it in my head that W&N brushes were 5 to 10 times that price. For under a tenner, I'd probably go for the best.
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Jun 13, 2011 08:48
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Maybe not how YOU throw a punch The front foot needs to come forward a lot more, currently his centre of balance is way too far forward, which add to the impression that he's halfway through falling flat on his face. Try something like this: http://www.iuma.be/_wp_generated/wpa0f223f5.jpg - keep the extension through the upper body, that looks great, but bring the front foot forward so the toes are pretty much under that bit of cork held up on wire there - and the back foot an equivalent amount. Also, great stuff, these =)
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Jul 13, 2011 11:15
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Fuegan posted:Crossposting from the 40k thread for some feedback. It's WIP but I did the vials today and I'm pretty happy with them. I'm not too sure how to highlight the face mask though (I never was too great at highlighting black). Just curious: are the specular highlights on the vials painted on, or are the just that shiny? If the former, holy crap they look good. Even if the latter, they look great.
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Jul 30, 2011 22:49
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Jonny Nox posted:Part of the problem is that adding white turns red into pink which registers to my eye at least as a different color, and that red paint is generally pretty transparent. One very common art-newbie's error is thinking that shading involves adding black and white to the base colour to darken and lighten it. It can do, but that will tend to lead to a dull-looking image/model/whatever. Very little in real life is shaded in stark pure-white light - ambient light shining into shadows tends to move them towards the blue end of the spectrum, and direct natural light being yellowish tends to move highlights towards yellow or red. In short, highlighting your reds with orange or even yellow (in small doses) is almost certain to look better than highlighting with white/red mixes. It's also worth noting that, as with photos taken on a cheap camera, the human eye tends to expect things to be more vibrant than they actually are, so painting with more vibrant/saturated colours that might seem natural should look really good. RichyP's work is a great example of this. Varying your hues and saturations as well as brightness will make things really pop. NB: speaking as a digital artist with a view to starting minis, so pinch of salt territory, of course.
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Aug 5, 2011 22:56
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Fyrbrand posted:I wasn't super impressed with LA's, to be honest. Not enough to deal with something far less safe and environmentally friendly than Simple Green, at least. Since we're discussing paint stripping, has anyone ever had any experience stripping the prepainted D&D minis line? It's going to be a priority as and when I start painting, because that's going to be what I'm using minis for - so I'd really like to know if I can safely strip them. I'm concerned that the normal plastic stripping solutions won't work, because the plastic is crappy bendy stuff, not hard like warhams. Suggestions of supplies available in the UK, if possible, thanks in advance.
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Aug 6, 2011 21:20
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The detail is fine enough that thick goopy lovely paint jobs plus spray primer probably does though. I'll have to buy up some cheap ones I don't mind ruining and runs some tests at some point.
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Aug 6, 2011 22:03
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:I personally think you should have done the whites with bleached bone or something. Lots of black people have kind of beige eyeballs, maybe a bit of sepia wash? Eyes in general should rarely be done with pure white for two reasons: firstly that they're not pure #ffffff naturally, and it looks weird, secondly that they're almost always in the shade of the brows, so lighting them as if they're lit from directly in front makes them look like they're glowing. Most eyes will look better done in a light-to-mid grey, probably with a little reddish or yellowish tint, rather than white. Otherwise you risk the 'cartoon-character-at-night' look. Nice job, though. I'm dreading painting my first eyes as and when I get back into painting (which should, possibly, be within the next few weeks, albeit my palette will be limited to the GW colours I have back home from 10 years ago that haven't yet dried out...)
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Aug 14, 2011 10:33
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Hal Gill username posted:This is how they got me too. Not the only one. I'm probably going home in the next couple of weeks to pick up all my old paints and bitz boxes, then burning some cash I don't have on some Kolinskys from the FLGS (and probably some mroe paints too, most of the old ones have dried up) to get started. Having space for this is going to be an issue...
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Aug 14, 2011 16:44
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Dominion posted:Aha, that may be the thing. Some time ago (within the past year or so), GW switched from this: Ah, short memories. I've still got a bunch of washes and inks at home (some still liquid) in the second pot style here - and it turns out, that's not the oldest. Curiously (or not so curiously) the paints that are still liquid are the ones in the pop-top pots, where the bullet-style screw caps have all dried out, presumably because the dried paint gumming up the threads let the air in. Gonna go get my paints back in a couple of weeks. Pretty stoked about that. Slightly worried for my carpet though, but hey, that's what newspaper is for.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:02
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My flip caps are probably 10 years old I think. Settled out to hell, but otherwise fine. A good shake, they'll be up and running. WHich is good, because I really don't have the money to burn.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:12
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Since we're on the topic: would the Reaper HD sets (2 of them at $50 each plus shipping to the UK, probably along with some models because, well, why not?) be a decent investment in paints? I have a few left over, as I've mentioned earlier, from home, which I'm pretty much stuck with until I have significant income, but as and when I do, I'd like to grab a big set with minimal outlay. Is that a good place to start?
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Aug 20, 2011 14:24
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Link from the OP: http://salmondworks.com/blog/?p=278
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Aug 30, 2011 10:18
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So, primers: I have painting gear (and 2 Kolinsky sable brushes). I have a mini to paint which is already primed black and part-painted, but I'm probably going to take a pop at stripping it. What I don't have is a spray primer. I know I've heard some people saying that a basic spray primer is fine, and I'm thinking a mid-grey would suit me better than black or white. Is something like this reasonable? Also, for a UK painter, I think Dettol was mentioned as a good paint stripper for metal and plastic - do I recollect correctly? TIA.
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Sep 4, 2011 21:58
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Thanks all. Itching to get started, but have job interviews tomorrow and tuesday, so won't for a while. This dude is my current target - literally the last mini I ever painted, got about halfway through (washed the gently caress out of his face, yeah) before giving up. Will post before and after and stuff sometime soon (tempted to maybe even start a blog of some description). I've also got a 
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Sep 4, 2011 22:39
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So, I got some Dettol yesterday, and am eagerly anticipating the delivery of some more stuff for painting exploits - a desk, so as not to drip paint on rented furniture, and my needle files - from home. Here's the last mini I started painting before I gave up, prior to his Dettol immersion; and the first mini I will paint in my return to the hobby. Featuring Chaos Black spray paint, and Flesh Wash face. Yeah. And mould lines.  I'm going out to grab some grey primer later this afternoon, and I hope to do some painting one afternoon this week.  Does anyone know where I might be able to obtain Masters brush soap in the UK? I wanna make sure my stuff stays in good nick. Wish me luck.
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Sep 6, 2011 13:27
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Thanks =) I'll have to see if there's owt else I want from there - currently it's only the brush soap. I could also check out the FLGS, they've been good with the brushes and stuff. On a similar note, what about a pin vice drill? That's the only major thing I'm missing now, but I'm going to want one when I come to replace the lovely, flimsy sword on one of my D&D minis.
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Sep 8, 2011 00:06
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So, I started painting a thing. BUT FIRST: let me entertain you with this, I kept it for ever: babby's first space marine. I painted this when I was 10, so 15 years ago. Ain't it good? NO.  On with the show: Primed grey:  Face and cloak base coated and shaded. Rest Flesh Washed to gently caress in preparation for metals, what little shading I can do to the rest (I don't have any black or any brown darker the Bubonic  ) THis represents... probably 3 hours work I think:   Tried to keep a strong light source up and slightly behind, felt like it framed the face well from there, and actually gives me a chance to do some of the detail inside. drat that detail is detailed I was practically hyperventilating doing the eyes, let alone all those tiny tiny buckles.So far, pretty OK with the result, but lack of darker shades is causing issues with the face and doing the boot leather. And looking at it in the harsh light of several megapixels and flash, it doesn't look nearly as good as I thought  Need to replace the bulb of the desk lamp, too, it blew after less than 2 hours.
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Sep 9, 2011 19:37
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So, annoyingly, my FLGS is closed this week, or I would have gone in and grabbed the colours I'm missing to finish off this dude's base and boots. But, since it is I call this as finished as I can get it - aiming for single character quality, this is intended for use in my D&D game, when I can figure out a character which actually suits it. Basing is intended as flagstones, until such time as I can figure out where I can get sand in small quantities in the local vicinity. I do also have some good cork rocks left over from my earlier efforts, and various other basing ideas in mind, but I want to keep these minis fairly simple, as our maps are rarely if ever elaborate. Onwards:     Completely redid the face, sorted out the metals, and did as much shading and highlighting as I could to the boots without making them just look like the same material as the cloak lining. Questions: - Am I doing the right thing by trying to highlight/shade metallic paints with non-metallic colours? It didn't seem to work terribly well, unfortunately. - I kept finding, when trying to do the very fine details like the eyes (bloody eyes too me ages, never look even, still don't because the sculpt isn't even) and the gems, that the paint would dry on the brush before reaching the mini - is that because it's not thinned enough? I think I still haven't found the thinning sweet spot, because I varied on the fine detail between 'dries on the brush' and 'so thin it floods off immediately'. - Any other constructive crits and hints? Overall, pretty pleased with this guy. Next project is another White Dwarf freebie from years back; this Scout:  DUe to my absence of any darker coloured paints, he's going to be in desert camo, I think. thespaceinvader fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Sep 12, 2011 |
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Sep 12, 2011 14:24
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Little sand round here. It's Oxford, and it's autumn  That being said, I could probably improvise with something.
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Sep 12, 2011 14:45
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Paying money for sand seems silly. I had thought about using sugar. I have some nice demarara which would probably do. But I was worried about it dissolving. Superglue would cover that though I guess. EDIT: I used to use some builders sand my folks had knocking around at home. I'll go digging next time I'm down there.
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Sep 12, 2011 15:33
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Ashcans posted:That doesn't even make sense. You don't want to pay money for sand, so you're going to use sugar? Do you have some hookup that gets you free sugar? Otherwise you're still paying for your basing material, it's just that it will be on your grocery bill instead of a separate purchase. Sugar is also a terrible substitute, because you are going to have to worry about it dissolving, getting sticky, and having children lick your miniatures. Where am I going to put 5lb bags of sand? I don't exactly need that much. I know it's not entirely logical, but I see no reason to pay good money I don't have much of for what is the single commonest material on the planet, then chuck the vast majority of it out because I only need, say, 100 grams, and have nowhere to store it. I just don't have anywhere to get the stuff from for free.
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Sep 12, 2011 15:57
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I won't ever make four armies* *note, comment may be in error, and may cost me much, much more than I expect >.<
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Sep 12, 2011 19:21
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TastyAvocado posted:Alright I think it's all done, here's a couple more views. A joy to paint, I really really love painting with metallics. Play D&D with me plz. On a more on-topic note; does anyone know where I can get a non-dorky-looking crossbowman miniature? Preferably this dude - but he seems to have been out of production for about 10 years. Otherwise, I'm tempted to try a Reeve of Orboros (preferably the kneeling one, unless PP is likely to release new minis for them any time soon, cos the old ones are a little odd), or making some form of conversion of this guy - but I'm not sure quite how I'd make the rifle into a crossbow. Maybe also this guy, but the shield and sword really don't fit the character, and it's Rackham, so it's similarly out of production for aaaages. Any thoughts on cool crossbow minis? On a side note; I'm starting a new job (my first in over a year) on Wednesday. Being able to afford things FTW. Probably, I'm going to buy one of the D&D board games and paint the minis from that. Been looking forward to it for ages.
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Sep 18, 2011 09:19
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He's pretty cool, but I'm not wild about the way the pelt actually comes down over his eyes. The kneeling Reeve who's aiming down his bow is probably the one I'd go for, but I'm not wild about the look of them in general. It bugs me just how uncommon decent-looking crossbow users are.
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Sep 18, 2011 21:32
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El Estrago Bonito posted:http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/crossbow Been through Reaper several times. Most of their crossbow-users are either Dwarves, heavily-armoured shield-bearers, or both. A few of them might work, but I don't think any of them are better than a Reeve. However, the Malifaux December Acolyte is pretty freaking cool, and would probably do the trick. Probably should have specified, human/half-elf, light armour. thespaceinvader fucked around with this message at 12:00 on Sep 20, 2011 |
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Sep 20, 2011 11:57
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Trip report on earlier paint stripping issues: After acquiring a job, I rewarded myself with a big pile of painting to do in the form of Wrath of Ashardalon. I tested one of the minis with a day in the dettol, and it did it no harm whatsoever, so I tried one of the painted DDM minis. Which survived the dettol perfectly intact, but... so did every ounce of its paint. The black ink wash that it came with washed away, but that's really about it, unfortunately. So, I think I'll just prime over it and hope for the best. I also finished my first mini, finally, basing and so on, but I need to wait for a better day before photographing it.
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Sep 21, 2011 20:25
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Yep, that's the one. I guess it's not acrylic paint. E: particularly because I'd smeared some acryllic paint all over it trying to scrub the paint off under hot water as my FLGS owner suggested, to absolutely no avail, and that came off fine. I have, however, hypothesised that the copper coin glued to the bottom of the mini might have had some impact on the paint stripping, so I pried it off and tried again - this time he'll get 48 hours in the drink, because I'll be out playing board games tomorrow night. Wish him luck. thespaceinvader fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Sep 21, 2011 |
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Sep 21, 2011 21:59
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DON'T, whateverthefuck you do, use Evo-Stik Serious Glue. I bought a massive tube of the stuff for home repairs hoping to also use it for minis, and it loving sucks. It takes way too long to bond. So yeah. On another note, just about to take pix of babby's first OSL. I don't know quite how I hosed this mini up so badly after the last one went reasonably well, but he's wound up looking like a twatted-up bumble bee... Pix uploaded in a few minutes. EDIT: so, other than trying to paint one of WotC's smeary-rear end mold-line-covered pre-painted minis, where did I go wrong?      The problem areas for me, other than the aforementioned sculpting quality (on which note, complete  regarding the mould lines, most of them were hidden by the pre-paintedness before priming, and I couldn't be bothered to get shot of them, they're everywhere):- The eyes. Was initially trying for a blue glow, but couldn't find the fine line between normal highlighting, and blue eye shadow. Problem compounded by the sculpt, which seems to actually lack eyes at all. - The OSL from the sword, and the sword itself. The latter is supposed to look like ice, the former a glow from the latter. I hosed it up somehow, but I don't really know how. - The armour. The steel bits kinda look OK, but the overall effect seems to have come out something like the aforementioned twatted-up bumblebee. The front of the shield is probably the 'best' bit
thespaceinvader fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Oct 2, 2011 |
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Oct 2, 2011 15:16
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thespaceinvader posted:DON'T, whateverthefuck you do, use Evo-Stik Serious Glue. I bought a massive tube of the stuff for home repairs hoping to also use it for minis, and it loving sucks. It takes way too long to bond. So yeah.
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Oct 3, 2011 18:18
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Your ones look more visually appealing to me, but the other ones look more slaaneshi. Your choice, really.
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Oct 8, 2011 00:39
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