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counterspin posted:What is the name of the product that is essentially a nice, premixed pvc glue + sand? Google is failing me. Pumic gel.. It comes in a few different textures and varieties, ranging from fine to extra coarse, and there's even a crackle-based one that can give a neat cracked look that would be good for a lava floor effect. You can usually find this particular brand at Michaels, though I'm sure there's other brands out there that do the same thing.
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Sep 7, 2012 08:00
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Not a viking posted:Do what you usually do when you highlight, only you start with the lighter color. I know it sounds awkward, but I did it for my K'daai Destroyer and it isn't hard to do. Whoa, where's that model from?
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Sep 12, 2012 02:39
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So guess what I scored for $20 yesterday at the LGS?       It's the old cthulhu model from the RAFM line of Call of Cthulhu miniatures! Some guy came in to sell a giant bin of pewter miniatures from various ranges over some 20-odd years of collecting; apparently he'd gotten most of them from a game store that had caught fire, and it showed. Some models were partially melted, and a couple intact bags had been melted shut. But this baby had survived intact! I picked up a couple other things, like the old Isabella von Carstein and the mad scientist lab from AD&D, but this was the big prize for me. He stands something like 5 ½” at the head and weighs a ton, and I've no clue how I'm going to keep it together but man is it gonna be fun to find out.
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Sep 13, 2012 17:40
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Fix posted:Seriously. You could probably weld that thing together and it'd turn out all right. I'm crazy about keeping my models from falling apart, but not THAT crazy. Though, I do remember reading up how you could technically weld pewter together, but that it's an exacting and annoying process involving a kind of stitching method. Quite frankly I'm just going to pin some parts together and fill the insides with apoxy-sculpt. It's tempting to put an LED inside that hollow head of his though, he's got some holes on the top and gills on the underside which would make a neat glow.
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Sep 13, 2012 18:14
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Bad Munki posted:Magnet the top of his head on so you can open it up and you could probably fit everything you need--LED, battery, resistor--right in side there, just make a little package and drop it in. Bonus because then you can swap out for a red LED when he gets angry. That just might be doable! I'll keep that in consideration. Currently debating on what kind of base I want to give him. There's no way he'll stand up on his own without one, and I want to give him something cool and scenic--perhaps some pieces of the dead city R'lyeh. Something that invokes that feeling of dread, y'know?
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Sep 13, 2012 19:11
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Twistershift posted:Check any local Hobby/model shop. Any good one should have some in stock. If not, just order multiple sizes from the net. It's pretty cheap, so you can have plenty to practice with. For Sale signs are made of the same stuff, too.
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Sep 15, 2012 18:16
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So I spent the past week or so painting 40 Mantic skeletons for my VC army.     You'll have to excuse the colors a bit; the lighting in my basement is complete crap, and I've yet to get some proper lighting for the photo booth I'm going to make. Had to run it through Gimp and adjust the brightness, but even then it still came out a bit faded  Also, magnets!  Rare earth magnets under each base, with a rubber steel sheet on the movement tray. It holds remarkably well and makes game set-up that much easier.
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Sep 18, 2012 01:34
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Crayvex posted:Nicely done! How did you add the magnets to the bases? Mantic bases aren't hollow. What I would like to say is that I drilled holes in the bases first, then glued the models into it but uh...yeah, I was dumb and didn't think that far ahead. I still drilled a hole using my drill bit, but it required a lot of patience and figuring out the right depth without drilling too deep into the base. It's not something I recommend, ever.
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Sep 18, 2012 01:57
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Finished up Ghazghkull and some Meganobz as part of a commission.       Ghazzie's metal model weighs a freakin' ton. All but bruised my thumb holding on to his base for most of the day.
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Oct 10, 2012 18:14
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Ork Battlewagon, now with FULL MAGNET POWER      The front is fully magnetized to where you can switch out for the deffrolla or the ram, and the two orks in the back are similarly set up. The two guns on top didn't require anything more than a washer underneath to keep them balanced.
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Oct 17, 2012 17:23
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Zhent posted:This is great. Did you use weathering pigments to add the faded brown around the tracks, or is it painted on? Did your primer come out fuzzy? It looks like it did. Suggestions, etc.: give the cloth parts a brown wash, then go back over it with whatever colors you used. Washes in general really help to capture detail and help colors blend together.
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Oct 17, 2012 18:07
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CyberLord XP posted:Hells yes! Really liking your blue! Too bad it's a commission and I will never actually get to play it in a game 
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Oct 18, 2012 00:20
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SRM posted:Ugh. Why is it that the worst modellers always use plastic glue? It's like preemptive revenge on the next buyer. That and Zip Kicker are literally the worst things.
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Oct 18, 2012 05:10
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Gretchin Mob and Orkified Aegis Defense Line. Whipped these up over the past 2 days.      
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Oct 23, 2012 23:44
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SRM posted:I love this! Great job Orkifying up the terrain, and the grots are great too. Any plans to Ork up a Bastion? That will depend entirely on what the guy commissioning me wants. The ADL is just part of a large set of Orks he's having me do, and insofar as I'm aware he doesn't intend to get a Bastion. Might make a mention of it to him. I do have an Ork Dakkajet to do next month, so I'm gonna have some fun with that one.
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Oct 24, 2012 15:35
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Hixson posted:What do you guys do to weigh down slotted bases? Metal washers, cut, trimmed and glued on the underside of the base.
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Oct 28, 2012 04:10
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I've been busy! First off, 4 rokkit boyz and Mad Dok Grotsnik.   Secondly, 10 Black Knights for my Vampire Counts army.       And finally, Fabius Bile. Rather than buying the old metal one (or ugh, Finecast) I decided to just make one myself. The base body is a Dark Angels marine, and everything else is just greenstuff and bitz. The only thing left to do is the Chirurgeon, which is going to be a bucket of tears. 
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Nov 7, 2012 21:43
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JerryLee posted:Can I ask exactly how you did the needler? I've been thinking about converting up a Bile someday. Sure! The base of it is a melta pistol from the Death Company set. I then took a hollow plastic tube and filled one end with greenstuff, before gluing it over the barrel of the pistol. The edges of the tube is really thin plasticard wrapped around and glued on both ends; the vials are just greenstuff and thin plastic tubing, and the needle is a paper clip drilled into place and cut at an angle to give it that proper needle look.
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Nov 7, 2012 21:57
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Flipswitch posted:Gorilla glue, glues poo poo well. This. I use Gorilla Super Glue almost exclusively and I've never had a problem with it. That bottle goes a long way too.
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Nov 7, 2012 22:33
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Pierzak posted:All I see is the Doom stat bar mugshot.  
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Nov 8, 2012 16:57
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Some WIPs. Fabius Bile's Chirurgeon. The arms are made of really strong paper clips, bent into shape with a pair of needle-nose pliers, with the plastic rods cut and drilled before being fitted and glued into place. It's not easy, and certainly not very efficient, but they aren't going to snap off any time soon which is important to me. I make my models to last.  Ork Looted Wagon with a boomgun. Part of the ork commission I've been working on for months now. Quite a bit of fun to work on, but then, slapping random junk onto a vehicle has a charm all its own.
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Nov 12, 2012 18:56
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Cataphract posted:I think I might tone it down a little bit with some devlan mud but I'm more or less happy with how it's looking. http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?autocom=ineo&showarticle=298 This is a pretty good tutorial if you want a more 'gore' look with Tamiya.
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Nov 13, 2012 16:52
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Goat Bouillabaise posted:Beat it into shape. Without mercy. It will yield. Sounds pretty rad. How do you plan to '40k' it? Just slap guns on the arms, or something more intricate?
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Nov 13, 2012 18:41
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Goat Bouillabaise posted:Not sure yet. I was thinking eldritch weapons to count-as the primary armament. Maybe going out to the New Age store and getting a few crystals to serve as 'guns', that sort of thing. 'That's not a Battle Cannon, it's a Blazing Lance of Tzeentch.' You know, that sort of thing. I'm imagining the old Eldar Fire Prism cannons, back when they were metal.  Though I guess the newer kit would be easier to get the bitz for.  Either way, might be a good thing to base them off of.
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Nov 13, 2012 23:31
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Manifest posted:The falcon was plastic, but for a long time the cannon itself was a giant hunk of metal. Yeah, exactly. You could probably put someone's eye out with it if you aimed it right, though, if it's murder you got on your mind. There's only been one 40k flyer made purely out of metal, and it cost $650. 
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Nov 14, 2012 00:47
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The Supreme Court posted:Pretty big Oh man I forgot how adorable Epic is. Fearless posted:The metal thunderhawks are smaller than the FW ones as I recall, but not by much. I have an old WD at home from before that thing was released wherein two GW UK employees took one to an American Games Day and they referenced having to stop and make repairs several times because the thunderhawk kept falling apart under its own weight. Yeah I think that was before pinning was a common practice. I'd still like to one day put that thing together as a challenge.
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Nov 14, 2012 03:57
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Myrdhale posted:sticky glue situation Using less glue is definitely a good idea. You don't need much of it to keep something together. I'd avoid Citadel super glue and go pick up some Gorilla Super Glue--it dries fast and is tough as hell. If you're just using plastic models then that's all you need to do, but if you're putting together metal models then I highly recommend picking up a pin vice or dremel tool. Pinning is the most surefire way to keep pewter together and it's better to learn how to do it early on than having to pop limbs off and redo them later. It saves a lot of time and future headaches, trust me.
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Nov 14, 2012 19:56
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Achmed Jones posted:Any recommendations on spray varnish? I'm using Craftsmart brush-on and it works OK, but spraying things is way better than not. Honestly I just use Krylon Matte Varnish. It's cheap and you can find it pretty much anywhere, and lasts a good long while too. I've found that Americana Matte works really well too.
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Nov 15, 2012 02:50
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Finished up a Looted Wagon with Boom Gun.      And also finished up Fabius Bile! 
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Nov 15, 2012 18:11
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lilljonas posted:Now that is a conversion. Just head to your local home improvement store, they should have cans of matte varnish. Home Depot or Ace/Rocky's are the most common if you're in the US of A. Try checking arts n' crafts stores too, like Michaels or AC Moore.
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Nov 15, 2012 19:03
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The Dark Project posted:At first I was like... So uh...you wouldn't happen to have the Char Nain Dwarf Chariot, would you?
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Nov 16, 2012 16:36
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The Dark Project posted:Slimnoid: 3 in shrinkwrap. You after one? I've been trying to find one for awhile now, and for a price that isn't ridiculous.
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Nov 16, 2012 19:20
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Pierzak posted:Also: what do you recommend for priming with ~0 C temperature outside? Brush-on is out of the question, I'm poo poo at it. You're pretty much poo poo out of luck if you don't want to use brush-on.
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Nov 17, 2012 15:10
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Does anyone have any air compressors or mini-compressors to recommend? I'm thinking of getting into airbrushing, and while someone gave some tips a few pages back (and posted this handy video) I'm still sort of at a loss as to what kind of compressor to get. I simply cannot find the Atlantis PT-350 in that video anywhere online, and that would be about perfect for what I need, so something roughly equivalent would be good.
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Nov 20, 2012 02:18
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I bought this compressor not too long ago and it seems pretty decent: That doesn't seem too bad, though it's out of stock and out of my price range. It's funny, I can find piston compressors for as low as $40, but diaphragm compressors are proving to be a real pain to find at a reasonable price.
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Nov 20, 2012 03:12
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Zhent posted:Note sure how close you are on price, but I purchased this, which is basically the same as that badger model without the case and saves $30 or so: Honestly I'm a bit of a cheapskate. If I can score a compressor for $80 or less I'd be perfectly happy. This doesn't seem all that bad, and I'm sorely tempted to pick this thing up because there's an HF a short distance away from my house (and added bonus of being something my dad could use too).
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Nov 20, 2012 04:55
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Zhent posted:I almost bought that HF compressor as well, but wanted something a little quieter so my wife could work in our office at the same time as I airbrush. Quiet isn't really an issue here; I'd be running it during the day when no one else is around the house, so as long as it isn't as loud as a band of Noise Marines playing every Queen ballad at once it'll be fine. I'm probably going to pick up this particular compressor because I got a coupon that knocks it down to $40 which is a goddamn steal.
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Nov 20, 2012 05:21
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Pilgrimski posted:I've had this pose in mind for a while This is totally tubular.
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Nov 21, 2012 02:11
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Sneaky Homunculus posted:It seems insane, but brush on some olive oil and it will fix the frosting. I frosted my deff dread and the oil fixed it right up. Huh. What's the chemical reason for that, anyway? I mean, there's got to be some sort of reaction going on that removes the frosting.
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Nov 25, 2012 20:55
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 03:19 |
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I've been busy with ork stuff! Forgeworld Ork Warboss on Bike     Nob Bikers        Dakkajet        
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Nov 27, 2012 19:44
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