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Working on my first army(Ultramarines) and the online painting tutorials on youtube and such have been a godsend. I've been going off a few channels since they have pretty comprehensive and easy to follow painting tutorials for Ultramarines. I'm pretty happy with my results so far having painted 3 tactical Marine squads, and a terminator squad. That being said I am moving on to my HQ Librarian. I had planned on using the following tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtmqojKrLvE Now this isn't the first one I've followed where I don't have the exact paints to what the creator is using, and normally I don't get to hung up on using a slightly different shade of blue/red/whatever, but I am not sure if anything I have in my range is a suitable replacement for Zandri Dust in this example. I have been going White Scar White for my Marine tabards so far, but I am not sure if that would look out of place on this particular model. Might anyone have any recommendations on what else they might use to paint the tabard on this model? Some colors I currently own are: White Scar White, Ulthuan Grey, Rhinox Hide, Skrag Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, and Kislev Flesh. I've even considered just going with something like completely different such as painting it Warpstone Glow, but I am hesitant to jump in and I find out I hate the way it looks, especially on a model where the tabard/robe is so prominent.
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Aug 18, 2014 23:08
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 08:00 |
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Anyone have recommended varnish/protective coating? I used GW purity seal, and ruined 3 models, which sent me into borderline rage. I refuse to touch any others with the stuff.
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Aug 26, 2014 11:04
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krushgroove posted:No Airbrush: I think Plasti-Kote is one of the favorites (Halford's cheap clear acrylic is another), followed by Dull Cote (get an airbrush) There a way to save or salvage the frosted ones? It happened to be all the missle launchers out of my tactical squads, which is a kick in the balls.
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Aug 26, 2014 12:31
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Reapplying gloss coat should work IIRC. Depends on the varnish/brand so try brushing a very small amount onto a missile launcher barrel or something to test it first. Yeah, unfortunately it's spray and adding more did nothing. Looks like it's to the simple green tank for them. A shame since I had just finished my 3 tac squads and terminator squad completely, decals and all. I sat back and was like "time for one last step....What the gently caress!!!"
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Aug 26, 2014 13:19
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I know a person at my FLGS who called in to GW customer service and got a new box of minis because of purity seal ruining paintjobs. You can call and ask them what should be done about the frosting of your missile launcher marines. They might send you a devastator box or something. Worth a shot. Seems to be a wide range of recommendations here. Unfortunately the store won't let me return it, but judging by the number of people who have bad results I decided to not risk spray can for what is essentially the final step on my models. I ended up buying MOD PODGE matte at wal-mart and going 1:1 with water and I loved the result. Makes the Marines look a tad shinier which in my opinion with Ultramarines isn't a real issue. Took me a couple hours to coat all of them, but I think the extra time was worth it considering what it took me do the three that got crapped up. I don't know what I did wrong with the spray stuff if we have expert painters saying they use it. I'd like to share my progress so far, but my iPhone camera is balls for taking pictures of these guys with an sort of detail. What all do you guys use? I've been meaning to snag a real digital camera, so this seems like as good of time as any. The guy who runs the GamesWorkshop store an hour drive away was a bit of a dick, and pretty much said I should complain to customer service. He even suggested they might be dirty from playing, which is funny cause they sit inside a closed case and were just finished. At this point I've already begun stripping them, so without photo evidence I doubt I'll be able to get any free minis. Then again I'm a fool with more money than sense at this point, so I guess I can just give it away. Be criminal to toss a 16 dollar can of stuff, I don't know what shipping restrictions are if anyone would want it.
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Aug 27, 2014 03:11
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What do you guys use for Veteran Space Marine white helmets? I learned early on you can't really just slap white on and expect it to look good. Should I be using a series of progressively lighter greys?
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Sep 16, 2014 07:02
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JackMann posted:Don't shade with gray on white and black, unless you're trying for something that looks monochrome. You'll want to think about what colors are going to be around it and work those into it. I'd go with a real light trace of brown (if indoors) or blue (if outdoors) and then shade up to white. Trick is that a very little of the color goes a long way. Treat the white as both your midtone and your highlight. A normal color, you're looking at around 20% shadow, 60% midtone, and 20% highlight. With white, you're going for about 20% shadow and 80% white. Black's the opposite, just with highlight instead of shadow. SRM posted:I use Ulthuan Grey, wash it blue, then layer back up to Ulthuan Grey before doing a white highlight: Thanks for the advice guys. I had initially put a layer of ceramite white as my base, but I am going to simply wash it with Nightshare, and then use the Ulthuan Grey as SRM suggested, then finish with a White Scars highlight, and see how that looks. SRM, what camera do you use? I've been wanting to share my model progress but my Iphone sucks for it.
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Sep 16, 2014 17:11
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Copying from the Warhammer 40K thread, but to review. I have been working on an Ultramarines Army since the end of the summer, and this is my first attempt at painting minis, or getting serious for a tabletop game. Currently I am pretty deeply invested, and have been learning the hard way on how to make my models look respectable. That being said here are a few of my more recent, I have painted right at 55 Marines of various types, and have completed a Rhino and a Drop Pod, the later of which was infuriating to assemble and the former having it's rear door put on backwards. At the moment the vehicles are slowing me down, but I have graduated to magnet usage in an attempt to get more out of my models for weapon swapping, this being said I have a Razorback at 90% that can substitute as a Rhino, unlike my first model... Given that I am over four months into this and still a great deal away from my final goal I have given some thought to having a third party knock out some of the vehicles, and have already went to Ebay to get my hands on more Honor Guard, because I'd really like to make a full squad part of my army. Sadly, you have to buy Calgar to get Honor Guard, which is a massive waste of money for me.   
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Jan 6, 2015 16:08
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Thanks, it goes without saying your DE are super sexy as well. I was able to avoid the paint thinning issues earlier, largely thanks to the plethora of YouTube videos that explained in detail how I should paint my first Ultramarine. I'm at a stage where I want to try airbrushing, because while my brush strokes don't really show on the infantry, it is glaring to me on the vehicles, unfortunately I do all my painting at work thanks to my third shift job, and bringing an airbrush in is to far. When you say Silver to highlight the gold do you mean as a final coat using a very thin silver or like edge highlighting? My initial problem is all my marines have bronze looking trim because I used Gehenna's gold by itself, but now I use Balthasar gold, followed by Gehenna's, and finished with Auric Armor gold, which gives me what you see. My friends still give me poo poo for it looking to bronze and totally lack originality by going 2ndCompany colors.
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Jan 6, 2015 22:09
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I vote for green because that's really just how imagine Dark Eldar to look, it is all about terror with them. That being said my friend showed me a plethora of badass paint jobs on DE and I'm convinced a god painter can make an army beautiful with any colors. Still, green fits the poison and fear theme, especially if you are going with Haemonculi and such, gold on the other hand might fit well with warriors and trueborn along with an Archon, because it strikes me as the color of excellence, which all DE think they are hot poo poo.
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Jan 6, 2015 22:26
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I could use some advice on painting my Ultramarine vehicles. Currently I am use Maccrage Blue base and do all the surface in Altdorf Guard Blue, and use Calgar Blue on the edges. Am I going about this the wrong? Keep in mind I can't access an air brush because I do a majority of my painting in a place that won't allow. Every tutorial seems to focus on air brushing, and the few dry brushing tutorials I've seen often use way more colors. Basically, when I look at my first pod, I hate it, arms length its fine, but up close the brush strokes jump out at me. I am now just unsure if 3 colors is enough. Should I be dry brushing the calgar blue as well, because I basically traced it along the edges? If Altdorf is basically my only shade of blue above Maccrage should I just use more brush strokes to get it to stand out? I also have Fenrisian Grey, so I was unsure if perhaps I should factor that into my layering...   Perhaps these will help, but you can very clearly see where I've highlighted the edges with Calgar blue. I used a little dry brushing for the support strushes, but when I initially first started painting the door you can really tell I was just glooping that poo poo on there, because the Maccrage blue shows through really well in certain areas. I figure this might simply be an issue of not doing enough layers, but I am curious how many times some of you go over your models before you move on to the next color. TheArmorOfContempt fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jan 13, 2015 |
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Jan 13, 2015 23:32
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BlackIronHeart posted:I honestly think this looks great from just these two pics but I might be biased as I loving despise painting Drop Pods. The sooner they're done, the better, in my book. I'd probably move on to weathering unless you're planning on using transfers. I am not sure if I am going to bother with weathering or anything of that nature for a while. I really just want to paint the army, have it look good, and get it going. I wasn't even going to do the model bases on the minis, until I got a bunch of "rawgggg black bases are awful" responses, and I figure spreading some glue and sand on a base can't be a huge time sink...can it? Also, yes, so far the drop pod has been the worst thing to paint and assemble by far. The painting took twice as long as my Razorback, and the assembly was all sorts of hosed. The doors ended up not aligning properly with the little part at the top. Some of them have two magnets because one wasn't enough, and I had to shave down the model around where the doors connect to the drop pod base to get them to roll up higher, it was a pain in the rear end, and I hated it...
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Jan 14, 2015 08:41
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:I use the nail polish desk racks. They hold 80+ vallejo/ reaper bottles, 60+ GW/ minitaire bottles. It was a good investment. My little Shitass IKEA computer stand turned into an improvised painting desk makes me feel like I'm not trying hard enough here... BlackIronHeart posted:I wish I knew why some Space Marine vehicles (I'm looking at you too, Land Speeder I've already went on EBay to snag a pre-painted one. I want to have five total, but the idea of suffering through that many sounds awful... TheArmorOfContempt fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Jan 14, 2015 |
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Jan 14, 2015 13:41
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) are the worst to paint and assemble. They're seriously holding me back from painting more Salamanders.
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So I've been on an ebay spree trying to snag to some decently painted models at reasonable prices. I spied this guy, and thought it seemed to good to be true...contemptors with their weapons mounts are 50 pounds on forgeworld, and this guy only wants another 20 for what looks like a pretty drat good paint job and assembly. Ultramarines Mortis Contemptor
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Jan 14, 2015 23:39
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krushgroove posted:...probably a painted recast? Not familiar with forgeworld at all? If its recast does that mean its a knock off? Or the model wasn't up to standards? I guess what I am asking is there any reason not to buy it?
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Jan 15, 2015 02:10
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El Estrago Bonito posted:A Chinese company buys a FW model then makes a mold of it and recasts it for cheap. So it's probably a knockoff the painter bought on AliExpress or a similar site and then painted up. Ah, ok. Thanks. BlackIronHeart posted:The only reason not to buy (beyond any normal potential issues with commissioning a painted mini) is if you have a moral or ethical issue with owning something that may be a counterfeit. You won't be able to tell if it is a recast once it's painted unless you decide to scratch the paint off to investigate. If I wasn't already a thousand bucks deep into this hobby I might have a stronger pull to do the right thing. TheArmorOfContempt fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Jan 15, 2015 |
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Jan 15, 2015 11:52
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Crossposting.   I am not very happy with how this generic Captain I had lying around came out. I am not sure really what I can do with him at this point, but he certainly lacks something the sternguard have, and I feel HQs should always outshine their troops.
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Feb 25, 2015 23:19
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The minotaur symbol on the chestplate is pretty freaking awesome. Where does one find this style of librarian?
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Feb 27, 2015 08:24
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So tomorrow I am going to start painting this guy and I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what colors they think would look good on the tabard/cloak. All my veterans and special characters at this point have been going with Zandri Dust sometimes with some Screaming Skull hightlights. I recently did a Captain with White Scar, and I didn't really like it. That being said I was wondering if anyone had any ideas that might really help distinguish Tigurius from his brothers.
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Feb 28, 2015 22:43
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Well I wish my Ultramarines looked that nice, but at least here the first part of my oath for this month. I decided to leave the eyes because I am awful at getting pupils, and for the Chief Librarian I felt it was fitting, like he is in the middle of bringing fourth his powers.
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Mar 4, 2015 15:35
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thespaceinvader posted:It would look a shitton better if you got some decent lighting and adjusted the levels so that the whites were actually white.  Better?
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Mar 4, 2015 20:58
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adamantium|wang posted:Looking great dude. Your highlighting is nice and neat and aside from a couple of tiny flecks that you only ever notice when you take a picture you don't have any bleed over from one area to the next. Only things I'd think about doing would be to take a fine brush and apply a wash to some of the metals and maybe the face and robes to add some more contrast. Also add a bit more highlighting to the green on the staff and the bolt pistol as a whole and they'll both be better defined. Might you have a decent tutorial vid? Basically I've been going base, wash, highlight, edge highlight(for like the light blue and red). When it comes to the metal I did leadbelcher followed by a nuln oil wash, and then dry brushed runefang steel on there, are you saying I should do another wash after this?
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Mar 4, 2015 22:05
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thespaceinvader posted:A shitton, yes Thanks, I think I might also need a couple new brushes...I have the citadel set, and after painting for the past 7 months I've been alittle rough on them. It doesn't help that Tigurius already looks like he is squinting as his eyes are little slits, unlike some other guys I've done. Looking at it this close up I am unsure what I should use on the red gems, I am already using a Mephiston Red with a little Wild Rider, so maybe I just need another coat. As for the Green on the staff, it doesn't really have the pop I was hoping, unfortunately Warpstone Glow is the only green I have. I was thinking of putting some Auric Armor Gold in the space in between, and maybe doing a very fine RuneFang Steel highlight on the green parts, thoughts? TheArmorOfContempt fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Mar 5, 2015 |
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Mar 5, 2015 00:04
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 08:00 |
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Slimnoid posted:Short of using bronze paint, just brown washes with maybe a wash of black on top until it's dark enough to your liking. Putting Agrax Earthshade wash on Balthasar Gold makes it look completely bronze to my eyes.
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Mar 5, 2015 05:57
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