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This is pretty much the best I've painted in my opinion and I'm drat proud of it. Rip it apart. 
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Oct 4, 2009 03:15
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Thanks for the comments  Yeah, the photo is a bit washed out. I bought the stuff for making a light box but never got around to actually assembling it. I guess I need to read up a bit on that. Ceritus posted:My only real criticisms are that the verdigris on the armor looks kind of strange - probably because the wash just pooled in the recesses of the plating and doesn't cover the rest. Also, the pureblood's left hand looks a little strange on that base since its not resting perfectly flat. (fingers jutting over the edge of the scenery). Totally agree on the armor plating. The verdigris was an experiment since I didn't want to go with the studio green/gold. I hoped I could take a shortcut and use Vallejo verdigris glaze, but I couldn't control the shading very well. Next time I'll mix my own. I noticed the chipping as well. The picture is actually taken right after I finished him so I guess I didn't wait long enough for the paint on the spines to dry before handling him. vvv Not mine, if that wasn't obvious. 
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Oct 4, 2009 09:01
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Ashcans posted:Has anyone used Vallejo's crackle medium? I bought some to try it out, but so far it doesn't seem to work. The guy I tested it on just looks very glossy, no sign of crackling after a full 90 minutes. I'm going to leave him overnight and see if anything develops, but I'm not optimistic. I tried it to get a broken earth effect on some bases but found it very hard to control. The results were varied with different sizes of 'cells', and the cracks made circular patterns that followed the edges of the base which wasn't what I was going for. In the end I gave up on it.
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Oct 9, 2009 06:57
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Two Skorne models I painted up recently for a tournament:  Next up is a full unit of Cygnar Stormguard and some solos. I'd like to get a 35 point list fully painted in a month for a Flashpoint event. We'll see how that goes.
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Nov 6, 2009 19:38
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Ceritus posted:Those are sweet. Skorne look great in Vinter's colors. The bases are pretty awesome, too - what materials did you use to get that effect? Thanks! The base is really easy to make. I break up a cork placemat and glue it to the base together with sand so the entire surface is covered. Basecoat white, then just drybrush yellow, orange, red and brown to get a gradent. I go really easy with the red on the lower parts and the brown is only for the area just under the plateau the model is standing on. Finally I paint the flat surface black. You can easily paint enough bases for an entire army in a day. I think I got the technique originally fram CMON but can't find the article. Might have been from the PP forums. Broken Loose posted:your nickelodeon floam is spilling out of the base Rhadeim is so badass it radiates across base boundaries.
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Nov 7, 2009 15:51
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Hey there OSL Gorman buddy  Not a finished model, still needs highlighting and basing. My second attempt at OSL and it came out pretty meh. I guess I should increase the intensity closest to the vials?
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Dec 15, 2009 14:43
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That protectorate color scheme is gorgeous.
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Dec 16, 2009 18:12
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Yog-Sothoth posted:sweet screaming bell I love the rat standing on top of the bell. Very cool model overall and you did a great job painting it.
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Dec 24, 2009 11:03
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Crosspost from indie game thread, my Malli-Foos I got together for my first game:  Wyrd produces some pretty sweet models, check out their Malifaux gallery.
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Jan 17, 2010 21:17
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That's an awesome Snikch. The Skaven have some really nice sculpts.No Pun Intended posted:I love the Blue Warpstone PV. Also Arlaharen where did you get those bases? Power Plant bases from Micro Art Studio.
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Jan 18, 2010 08:04
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crime fighting hog posted:So uhhhh does anyone have a good guide to painting Cryx? Googling gives me nothing but bullshit There's a lot of good stuff in the No Quarter magazines for painting guides and tutorials. Here's a crappy picture of a tutorial for rotten flesh: link
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Jan 24, 2010 09:31
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chelsea clinton posted:Anyone got some good tips for highlighting black? I use P3's Coal Black. It's a bit bluish which comes out nicely when you mix a little white into it.
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Jan 31, 2010 23:13
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Aegoceros posted:So, I've just received in the mail a totally awesome Lord of Pestilence from Ultraforge. He will be filling in as my Nurgle Daemon Prince, but here's the trick - for him to not die/be useful, he needs wings. An age and a half ago, I saw several really cool Nurgle princes with pus-filled rocket packs converted onto them for wings, but have since lost the links and, with them, just what was used for the barrels on the pack. Maybe not what you're looking for, but the Microart Conversion Lab has both feathered and mechnical wings.
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Feb 3, 2010 08:17
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Finally got my stuff from Maelstrom so this is how I spent my day:
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Feb 7, 2010 21:38
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If Smart Max makes the Smog game only slightly playable I'll buy the hell out of their product line.
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Feb 8, 2010 23:53
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Feeple posted:Protectorate stuff That's a great color scheme, do you have any finished warjacks to show?
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Feb 9, 2010 23:21
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I assemble the mini as much as I can (while still making sure I can reach all places for the basecoat) before priming the individual pieces. I usually prepare my base separately from the model I'm painting and pin everything together after shading. I like to do this because after this stage I will have a model that is fieldable to a decent tabletop standard after not too much work and it gives a sense of progress. I can also see what's going to be hidden behind other stuff so I don't spend time highlighting/detailing something that will be obscured by weapons anyway. Brushthralls has pretty good tutorial on how to get a Cygnar faction box assembled and painted and goes through the basic techniques here. The P3 Painting Core Techniques DVD also covers the basics (with cheesy commentary) if you can find it somewhere.
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Feb 16, 2010 16:05
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There's plenty of good basing resources in the OP. My personal favourite is the Hordes basing tutorial which I use for my Cygnar and Circle.
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Feb 16, 2010 17:42
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crime fighting hog posted:I think I may have figured out the above. Base coat with a darker green, dry brush on some boltgun and chainmail, then drybrush on a mix of brown and orange to taste. For the metallic parts drybrush chainmail back over again so it's more apparent. The gold looks like normal gold that I'll just wash brown or possibly black. I think I'll switch out the blue glowing things for a different color, maybe a bright orange or bright red? I can see why you'd go with green as a base and I think you're on the right track, but maybe it would take less effort to prime white and shade down with washes. Paint the skin in a light grey, do metals, basecoat bone and gore and just go to town. Gold is washed with brown and then the same green used for the skin, steel probably just with black and maybe a little green. At least that's the way I'd do the guys. I'd keep the blue glow/metal on the jack because I like the contrast between the that and the rusty metal. Red or orange might blend too much with the hull if you keep the same color scheme.
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Feb 18, 2010 16:12
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I guess I focused too much on the trooper to jack ratio in the picture You could probably skip the green basecoat. Just drybrush heavily with metal over black primer, wash with brown/orange/green and then maybe another drybrush. I can't really make out how the layers are applied from the picture but I don't think there's enough green in there to really warrant a separate layer.
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Feb 18, 2010 16:40
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PV you can image spam my browser any time with hotness like that 
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Feb 20, 2010 10:59
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PaintVagrant posted:p3 paints own qtiyd Menoth White Highlight 4 lyfe
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Feb 21, 2010 08:51
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anarchywrksbest posted:I went on a mad painting binge today to finish up my February oath. This is glorious. And so much other sweet stuff on this page from the oathing thread, great work people! I finished the new Nemo sculpt this weekend. Here he is on the left beside my old color scheme on the old model. It was one of the first Warmachine figs I painted  
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Feb 28, 2010 22:21
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Captain Invictus posted:edit: I've been painting a ratling gun for like 3 days, I've been doing that "90% water 10% scaly green" super thin mix to add the oxidation to the metal bits, how do I get it to apply better without overwhelming the brass itself? I must have applied like 300 layers of it and it's only barely shown up in the more noticeable areas. I've used Vallejo mixing medium + water instead of just water to make a verdigris wash and got a result I liked in three-five layers or so. I also used a little more paint in the mix as well.
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Mar 2, 2010 14:07
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richyp posted:A cheaper alternative is to get a big rear end bottle of acrylic medium from an art shop. It's the same thing, only instead of 17ml you get 500ml, I use it for everything: 20% acrylic, 30% water and the rest paint. That's awesome news, I use medium for almost everything except basecoating and burn through a bottle pretty quickly. Thanks for the tip!
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Mar 2, 2010 14:38
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Only one I found close to me was Liquitex Matte Medium which is ~15 bux for 237 ml which is still hell of a lot cheaper than Vallejo or Game Color. I could wash my entire apartment in verdigris if I wanted to. Any recommendations on other useful artist supplies I should pick up while I'm there?
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Mar 2, 2010 15:07
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Blue colour correction filters are a very light blue. Think robins' egg kind of blue. Please do
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Mar 8, 2010 08:12
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Fix posted:I tried reshooting it with just the silver in the hopes the camera would handle it. I can't do the full indirect lightbox right now, so it may be that the direct light is just giving me too much shine, but I played with it in Picasa until it's a bit closer to what it really looks like. The details are all good and visible but the armor itself still looks a bit flat. I'd say put some wash where the various armor plates meet and use some more for shading below arms and such. Maybe hit the gold parts again for more contrast between the metals. I like the silver ones better than the red, but that's just me. I paint my warjacks in the same silver/gold fashion with some blue here and there.
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Mar 11, 2010 12:44
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I love 'em, awesome color scheme and a great paintjob.
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Mar 15, 2010 13:45
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Very nice paintjobs there KingMob, I love me some Cygnar.
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Mar 30, 2010 17:55
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Why do I get the urge to pick up Slann dudes I don't even play warhams 
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Mar 31, 2010 15:42
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richyp posted:If anyone's interested I've probably got a spare primed marine somewhere I can show the effect on? Please do I've tried two different glaze mediums, the first from Vallejo and I think the second was Liquitex. Vallejo has a matte finish (which I prefer) while Liquitex comes out kinda glossy even though both are labeled 'glaze', do you know what's up with that?
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Apr 6, 2010 21:16
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Bizarro Buddha posted:Oh god where did this come from I am not worthy Yessssssssssssss
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Apr 25, 2010 22:55
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Radish posted:I'm thinking of entering PaintVagrant's warmachine painting thread in order to finally get off my lazy butt and finish an army but it's hard since I'm not too good with color theory. I'd say Beast Hide for the darker tones, maybe MWH mixed in for the lighter areas?
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Jul 12, 2010 19:33
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P3 Coal Black is awesome for black highlighting. Mix with some pure white to get a great bluish grey.
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Jul 19, 2010 16:52
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Also, some techniques will come more natural to you than others. I've been painting regularly for about three years now and just recently realized I'm much more comfortable working with washes and really thin paints than 'traditional' layering. Don't be afraid to experiment with different things and you'll find stuff that just clicks.
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Sep 2, 2010 21:32
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KTS posted:Finished off another Malifaux model, the Ice Golem I heard something about blue + orange  But seriously, that's what I used on my Sorrows which look similar to your golem. I think it looks good and it's pretty easy to get right. Any dark red in the recess, a dab of orange and finally a tiny speck of yellow in the center. 
Arlaharen fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Sep 16, 2010 |
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Sep 16, 2010 16:09
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I go for about the same amount of coverage with primer and then paint in the recesses by hand using normal diluted paint to get everything even.
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Sep 17, 2010 09:44
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Swags posted:Trying (again. loving again. ugh.) to drill/pin my trollbloods starter set together. gently caress this. I hate doing this. Painting I love, but putting these things together is just an endless bit of frustration that leaves me with barely any satisfaction. Two hours of work and honestly, all I got was the goddamn heads onto the impaler torsos (and figured out that a part of the molding broke off onto one of the impalers, so I get to make him a new arm joint. joy.). I am so loving close to just walking into the game store and paying someone just to pin them together for me. I usually only score the surfaces with a scalpel blade and glue the parts together since I also hate pinning stuff. Works great. The only thing I pin are thin arms holding staffs and similar stuff with a lot of leverage.
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Oct 12, 2010 20:40
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 07:19 |
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This month me and a buddy decided to try to get an entire 2250 point Empire army painted for him to play around with. We live some ways apart and he has almost no painting experience, so we decided that I would paint characters and such in advance and then meet up this weekend and get the bulk of the army speedpainted in the Talabheim scheme. I'm going to do the base colors and he'll handle the washes. Some WIPs for the stuff I have at hand:   I hated the GW horses pulling the War Altar so I got some buffalo instead. Luthor got a new horse as well.  Priests are magnetized and can be switched for Volkmar on the altar.  There guys are my favourites. LOAD THE MORTAR KARL! PUT THE CANNONBALL IN THE MORTAR OVER THERE!
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Oct 27, 2010 17:44
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