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I've posted this on EoW, but for the past couple of months, I have been plugging away at a scratchbuilt warhound titan. http://s784.photobucket.com/albums/yy128/Tector_2009/Warhound/ There's the album of it so far, I should have some more pics later today when I finish some more painting on the main hull. The camo scheme on the upper half is almost done, I'm just doing some detailing on the engineering compartment at the back. The plan is since I don't have the massive tracts of vents all over the titan (presumably for coolant systems) that the FW and other homebrew titans have, to scratchbuild some Mech Warrior style heat sinks for the legs and hull flanks. They'll get the same glow treatment as the cooling rods on the side of the plasma blastgun; I want the things to look nice and bright. I like the oranges and yellows; the warm colours contrast very nicely with the colder blues and greys that make up most of the colour scheme. I also have a Testor's Aztek airbrush arriving in the next week or so, I am really looking forward to farting around with that, especially when it comes time to do the weathering on the titan's legs. Fearless fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Feb 15, 2010 |
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Feb 15, 2010 19:51
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Sole.Sushi posted:This thing looks rather impressive, especially considering the relatively short time you've gotten it together. I think those vents are there on the Forge World models mostly to break up the straight geometry, to give a more dynamic look to the model as a whole, instead of it being a polygon with feet. If you are looking for an alternative to massive venting systems, have you given thought to simple exhaust pipes? Heat sinks might be too flashy, but with the paint idea you have going on, it might look cool. I haven't added the pictures yet and they may not be very visible at the moment, but there are four stubby stacks in the rear. I painted the engineering compartment today, so pics should be up tomorrow showing those and what I did to make the rear a little less boring. Glowing heat sinks will be added to the sides of the two rear "bulbs" as this will allow them to be a bright orange without being unbelievable-- if they were in the shadowed areas on the legs, they wouldn't function properly as a light source. I think some extra armour plates are in order for the legs, if nothing else to break up the lines of the polygons that form them.
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Feb 16, 2010 08:37
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R.S. Gumby posted:Nice warhound. I have a megabolter for mine, but it does not look anywhere near as nice as that.
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Feb 16, 2010 19:06
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PaintVagrant posted:I am going here today I loving love that store. They're where I go for all my 54mm scale Napoleonics. Speaking of which, PV I would love to see you take a crack at a large-scale redcoat or French Guard cavalryman. R.S. Gumby posted:Nice warhound. I'd like to requote this to let you know that your megabolter has inspired me to go back and do more detail work on mine. I had originally planned on leaving it, as I wasn't really happy with the design at all, but I borrowed some of the design elements you've used to make my megabolter far less ugly. I've gotten quite a bit of work on the titan done, so I should have some photo updates soon. EDIT: I also got a little hot under the collar last night and started plugging away at a Knight Paladin/Lancer in 28mm scale for shits and grins. Fearless fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Feb 25, 2010 |
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Feb 25, 2010 18:39
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PaintVagrant posted:maybe one day, i havent tried much 54mm scale stuff I find that it's a really nice diversion from 28mm. Andrea, Historex and even Airfix have some really nice models that I like in that scale and it's really fun working on something that size... though really it's not that different from working on a wraithlord, or some other tall model with vaguely human proportions.
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Feb 25, 2010 18:51
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R.S. Gumby posted:Well, I really liked your use of the land raider engine bit in the back, and am stealing that idea, if I can just find one. I'm also seriously considering rebuilding the feet on mine, seeing how good yours look. Mine are much simpler and without hydraulics. It'll probably be a week or two before I do any more work on it. drat you, real life for interfering with my hobbies. I finished painting that, as well as the camo on the carapace. Time to get some photos done, I guess.
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Feb 25, 2010 20:58
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Here are some progress shots on my Warhound: This is the carapace now dressed in its snappy dazzle camo. Here's the engineering section I added, all painted up. I love seeing photos of my work, because I get to see all the things I have hosed up.  Here's the turbolaser, with carbon buildup and a shiny glowing barrel. I did something similar with the plasma blastgun, and really like how the warm colours contrast with the colder colours of the titan.  This is a still very much WIP vulcan megabolter. I had originally planned on more or less discarding this weapon as I wasn't happy with it. However, after seeing some of the beautiful work elsewhere in this thread I took it back in hand for further work, mostly detailing. That said, I also pulled off older barrels and replaced them with something far larger. The old ones looked like a large assault cannon, and I may save them for that very purpose. That's not all, though...  I started working on an Imperial Knight. For those unfamiliar, they are large war walkers that fall somewhere between a dreadnought and a scout titan in size. Here are the legs, tonight I hope to have the hips and lower hull at least started.  The model is an unfinished Marneus Calgar included for scale. The knight will be either a Paladin or Lancer, not sure which.
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Feb 26, 2010 22:10
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Danger - Octopus! posted:loving sweet. At first I was going to be sarcastic about you painting camo on a titan but then I realised that a] they used dazzle camo on battleships b] titans are shorter than buildings so camo makes sense and b] it looks cool. I've already started that Imperial Knight, so depending on how that goes I may make another couple so as to have a small order of them. Eventually I want to scratchbuild a Reaver, which is really pushing it in terms of a tabletop 28mm scale mini, but that is a long way off. My current plans are to finish the backlog of Ultramarines that I have waiting: a terminator librarian, the crew of a Land Speeder Storm, a tactical squad and four devastators are currently waiting to be painted. WRT the titan camo, it makes sense for the Warhound more than any other, given that it's the only titan suitable for urban ops and seems to be deployed very, very differently from the larger titans.
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Feb 26, 2010 23:06
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Anphrax, is that Leman Russ?
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Feb 27, 2010 01:35
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Anphrax posted:That is the Leman Russ Glorious! Where did you get him? Also, does anyone know anything about the non-GW primarch models that were being produced, and if there was one for Roboute Guilliman?
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Feb 27, 2010 02:38
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R.S. Gumby posted:Awesome. I really like that paint job. And it's magnetized? Niiice. Thank you for the kind feedback. I tend to magnetize everything, mostly because I really like tinerking. The entire thing is magnetized so I can disassemble it for transport and to suit whatever mission it's participating in. I love the flexibility that magnets gives me, it's remarkable how far the hobby has come in the past dozen years since I started.
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Feb 27, 2010 05:03
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PaintVagrant posted:Leman russ wasnt a primarch when that model was made, he was just some space marine guy in the 1st edition "pre-genetic enhancement" space marines of rogue trader I know, but it's still pretty cool to see a miniature from the dark ages of 40k. I had a couple of marines from the same period, and it's amazing how tiny they were.
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Feb 27, 2010 06:24
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More work on the Paladin/Lancer today and last night. Here it is: This is the rough shape of the knight. I need to do weapon arms and bulk up some massive armoured shoulder pads (probably in two layers, like the pauldrons on a Roman lorica segmentata) and the usual host of details, like cables, some hydraulics, etc.  And here he is from another angle. I am really pleased with the posing on the legs, especially since I haven't used any plans or templates for this thing at all.
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Feb 28, 2010 05:35
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Those models never cease to amaze me, it's like an act of hobby masochism.
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Mar 2, 2010 05:46
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Fix posted:The secret to saving hobby money is to realize that you are being charged out the rear end for materials that are readily available in some other part of your life. That anyone would spend money on sheet plasticard is pretty much laughable given how many things we buy are packaged in it. Try using used up dryer sheets for camo netting, for instance. It does a phenomenal job when painted a drab colour and spattered with mud, etc.
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Mar 3, 2010 08:04
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I finished the Knight tonight. Here are some pictures:     I opted for something a little different from the classic Paladin/Lancer depictions, especially WRT the weapons. I'm pretty happy with it, but now it's time to get back to the Warhound.
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Mar 3, 2010 09:26
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Your cardboard work is wonderful. I opted for plasticard, personally, as I find it's more durable and easier to repair. I have enough of the stuff that I may do a second titan eventually, using lessons and techniques learned from building the first to make a better end product.
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Mar 5, 2010 21:38
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enri posted:Seconding this, I'll never forget the time I got a piece of epic scale ork battlewagon in my eye When I was cutting rods for the plasma cannon on the warhound, I decided to try my hand at making rivets for a later project that may need them. One flew up and landed square in my eye and it hurt like hell. And here I thought I was the only one...
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Mar 9, 2010 18:15
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Asciana posted:That is utterly revolting. I love it. The pinky red sores are awesomely done. Maybe a little purple in there too? Seconding the purple or even dark reds in the open wounds. He looks raw more than inflamed, but overall that thing still looks absolutely rancid.
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Mar 10, 2010 20:55
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Cakefool posted:No no no no no. This, a math sent and a new tube of super glue are at the top of my shopping list.
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Mar 19, 2010 06:33
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Tactical Bonnet posted:Personally I think it looks pretty good. No, I'd be happy with something that looked like that too.
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Mar 22, 2010 17:51
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Fyrbrand posted:Duplicolor was weird as hell the first time I used it- really runny and thin. It was actually pooling in crevices almost like a wash. I tried it again a couple weeks ago and it was fantastic. Perfect coverage, no fuzziness, nothing. Same can and everything. It was pretty cold for South Florida the first time, so if you use it maybe avoid colder temps? I'm sold on the stuff for sure now. Before I spray, I put my cans of primer in a warm-water bath first to bring the temperature up, as apparently the paint goes on better when warmer. I have noticed a definite difference in the results.
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Mar 26, 2010 17:45
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The Saddest Robot posted:Some day I will learn the secret of non-fuzzy priming. It seems like 1/4 of my models end up with a fuzzy primer coat -- usually with white primer. I don't know if I'm spraying too close, too far away, it's too wet or cold out, can isn't warm enough or what. I'd guess that if the coat is going on fuzzy it would be because the paint is picking up moisture or partially drying before it hits the surface? I have found that moisture is a real hindrance to good priming. If you spray outside, don't do it on a damp or rainy day (if you have a sheltered area like a porch).
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Mar 26, 2010 23:32
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Phyresis posted:I just obtained a slightly used iwata hp-bcs airbrush and iwata smart-jet IS-850 compressor. I'm trying to learn to airbrush, but I can't seem to get the paint mix right. Some people say 50/50 windex and paint, but I don't really know what I'm doing. Any tips for basecoating? I've heard that rubbing alcohol works really well for thinning acrylic paints as it atomizes far better than just water. I'm not really sure, though, as most of my work has been involving inks for weathering and the like. Here's the kit that I bought: http://www.testors.com/product/136949/50654/_/Ultimate_Airbrush_Set_with_Compressor Though I paid about $140 CDN shipped. This set isn't hard to find cheap.
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Mar 27, 2010 04:17
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R.S. Gumby posted:Got fed up with detailing, called it a day and started painting it since I couldn't oath it. I just want it done at this point. Most metal areas are done, but I'm at a complete loss on how to paint the rest of it. I went for the WW2 RN battleship colour scheme of two shades of grey, a blue grey and black and am so far very happy with it. In fact, I think it's time to get back to painting that thing. I think when it comes time to paint the Imperial Knight that I built, I'll do something closer to the classic Epic look with bright colours and heraldry. Fearless fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Mar 27, 2010 |
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Mar 27, 2010 21:30
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PaintVagrant posted:If I was offering a kit of plasticard, that included: gently caress yes I would... unless you don't ship to the blasted wastelands of the frozen north (Canada). I've had really good results with a glue called Hot Stuff. It's reasonably viscous and very strong. It bonds resin and metal quite nicely, and flesh too, while it's at it. One needs to be careful when using it, as leaving the bottle open causes a reaction between glue and air that will eventually melt the bottle the glue comes in. I'm not one of those cretins that uses superglue for everything... one of the guys I regularly play against has a beautifully painted stompa and other vehicles that routinely crumble when moved, shaken or looked at, all because he refuses to use plastic cement. I like being able to deploy my army right from its case without having to gently caress around with reassembly every time I play.
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May 7, 2010 17:04
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Goons I need some advice. I recently came into possession of a Rogue Trader era space marine dreadnought. Should I bulk up the shoulders a bit and add some plating to make it a little closer to the modern dreads, or paint it and leave it as-is?
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Jun 13, 2010 03:28
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Vaporware: What are those robots? They look pretty neat.
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Jul 1, 2010 20:30
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Cthulu Carl posted:The other day I drew a sketch at work of an airship consisting of a sailing ship, but with the masts supporting a blimp instead of the sails. Then today I found this motherfucker for $16 bucks. You mean like the airship in Teddy Ruxpin?
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Aug 18, 2010 01:02
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Aranan posted:Testors This man speaks wisdom. GW's oh-so-cleverly named "Purity Seal" is utter poo poo that, in my experience, sprays on to leave a delightful frosty finish, melts paint and generally sucks balls. I've worked with matte sprays before, and I can say that Testors Dullcote is far and away superior to Purity Seal.
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Sep 21, 2010 23:40
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I just got my order in from Paint Vagrant and I dearly love the VGC and P3 paints that I got. The weathering pigments are beyond fantastic. Thanks PV!
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Sep 24, 2010 20:33
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Anyone else having problems with the Eternity of War forums trying to give their computers a virus or trojan or something?
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Oct 22, 2010 05:39
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I paint my golds by throwing down a layer of iyanden darksun as a basecoat. Gold, wash and drybrush or highlight until you get what you want.
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Nov 6, 2010 03:33
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Tadhg posted:I've said it before: scotch and prog rock LPs. Motley Crue and beer for me at the moment. I'm working on some of the new FW space marines in Mk 3 armour. Great models, and I think I've completely changed the way I paint marines now... I'm getting much faster and far prettier results.
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Nov 13, 2010 23:37
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I got a Forge World venerable mk IV dread for Christmas, bringing my dread count to five.
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Dec 26, 2010 17:57
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FrickenMoron posted:How is the varnish spray from GW? I've thought about "finishing" some of my better paintjobs with it but never used it before so I'm a bit cautious. Overpriced and words cannot express my hatred for this product. While working on a warhound titan scratch-build I sprayed some of this poo poo on thinking it was as good as my trusty dull-cote. Not so. 90% of the paint on the warhound bubbled and wrinkled, leaving my titan a ruined mess of plastic that I have not been able to look at since. Near as I can tell, the problem arose from using an enamel base. Seriously, get Testor's Dull-cote if you want an non-glossy shine.
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Apr 17, 2011 21:08
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Bhyo posted:Again I'd have to ask why did you not do a test spray? I had asked the Blackshirt at the store I bought it from if it was suitable for use with spray paints, specifically non-GW brands. Being told that yes, it was, I made the ghastly assumption that he knew what he was talking about. I learned a very important lesson that day.
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Apr 17, 2011 22:20
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Bhyo posted:I dont mean to be an rear end or harp on about it but if I've put a lot of work into something you better be drat sure I'm going to test something that I'm going to spray over it just in case. No kidding. Like I said, I learned a valuable lesson that day.
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Apr 18, 2011 03:12
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I really enjoy those regimental advisors. They look fantastic!
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Apr 18, 2011 06:02
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Miles O'Brian posted:I believe the "gold standard" (heh) for a bright gold these days is mithril washed with sepia to taste, edge with silver again. Gold + Sepia or Flesh gives a warmer, richer gold. Is the sepia watered down at all? I ask because I have a quartet of Custodes in progress and have been trying to work out how to paint that much gold. Sole.Sushi posted:To add to the discussion: I really, really like what you have done here. This has inspired me to try something similar for an Ultras test mini. Fearless fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Apr 22, 2011 |
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Apr 22, 2011 04:52
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