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PaintVagrant posted:Thanks for the procreate suggestions duders, it worked way better for me than GS Yeah, I agree with bhsman on this, not only is there too much going on, it's all over the place. Banners are going two ways which are different to the tabard with is different to the spear pennant which is different to the elbow gem (what?) which is different to him. They seem to imply a movement that the character just lacks. the torso is bolt upright, and the stance is too wide, so it looks like he's just balancing there. His feet are nearly as far apart as he is tall. I'd bring the legs a bit closer together and even go so far as to turn the front foot to point where he's looking. On top of that:  Otherwise, looking good. Be great to see him finished.
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Apr 30, 2010 03:06
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PaintVagrant posted:I appreciate the diagrams and schematics, but I already started painting him soooo So then you're going to have an overly busy, all over the place painted mini v0v Forgive me for thinking you'd like some constructive criticism and input after posting instead of a place to rubber-stamp your minis. Maybe you should get a blog to do that on?
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Apr 30, 2010 03:20
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Yes that's exactly what you should do  But then again maybe if you gave bhsman's criticisms more than 8 words of thought maybe you'd be putting up pictures of a changed pose instead of posting pithy replies. You have a high standard dude, and I think this falls short and I've told you why. It's your mini, do what you want. I just don't think it's particularly good.
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Apr 30, 2010 03:27
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That's cool man, it just looked like you were brushing off anyone what would criticise your work. With plastic tabards you're stuck with how they are, but the spear cloth looks like it's attached to that little ornament, and that can be snipped and flipped. And you shouldn't flip the elblow cloth, lose it altogether. Rotate the banners a bit and you're golden. They just detract from and confuse the direction you want him to be going. Depending on how far along you are, you should be able to make those little changes without too much damage to what painting you've already done. Like I said it's your mini, but even those little changes should have a big impact on it.
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Apr 30, 2010 03:48
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SRM posted:Here's some Imperial Fists I've been painting: How many points does a pintle storm bolter cost for a paint pot?
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Dec 15, 2010 00:09
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Grandpa Pap posted:While browsing around Warseer, I found what I thought was a very awesome BA Sanguinary Priest. I'm totally ripping this off when I start up a BA army. This guy have a thread or gallery you can link to? I'm 90% sure I know this dude.
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Jan 14, 2011 05:40
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Ah, not my guy  He paints unbelievably crisp Blood Angels too, which shows you don't need to weather the hell out of everything to make it look good. Thanks though man.
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Jan 14, 2011 11:57
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SRM posted: 
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Jan 23, 2011 03:13
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So after a long break (about 18 months) I've decided to warham again and am going through the wonderful period where I wonder why my paints from 1997 are still good while those from 2007 are all dried out. Brightened up immensely when I realised that Vallejo's Game Colour paints are the same shades as Citadel, come in more per bottle, have a dropper, are 2/3rds the price and are available on Maelstrom (which makes them 1/3rd Aus retail prices vs Citadel). What I need some advice with are brushes. Mine are older Windsor and Newton starter brushes that are okay, but I'm not sure how long they'll last. Was thinking of picking up Citadel fine detail, detail, standard and base brushes, but from memory they're average quality at best. Have they gotten any better in the last couple of years, or are there other brushes that I can grab from Maelstrom that people would recommend?
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Feb 5, 2011 15:35
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enri posted:cement is the same thing as plastic glue though some people prefer to use super glue for everything instead (weirdos It's so I can easily snap apart old models and use them or their bits for other things 
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Feb 7, 2011 23:19
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ineptmule posted:Welp, despite the hundreds of tonnes of free sand just 15 minutes from my house, the weather and the junkies resident at the beach drove me into Hobbycraft where I bought my first ever supply of basing material! Like Fix said, seal the sand down with more PVA. PVA with a bit of water on the base, then apply your sand. Let it dry, then mix up 50-50 water-PVA and gently apply that all over the top of your sand. Leave that to dry for a couple of hours and your base will be rock steady and ready for priming.
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Feb 12, 2011 04:12
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I can't speak for Vallejo vs. Reaper, but I literally just got my Vallejo order a few hours ago and after using GW exclusively for years I am considering never going back. The Game Colour range are clones of GW's set, and include all the paints they no longer produce, including all but 2 inks and 2 Foundations. The dropper bottles take up less space and have more paint in them (17ml opposed to 12ml), and give you complete control over how much paint you are using at all times. Got a ratio you want to use but don't want to make up a whole new bottle? You can mix it on your palette right every single time. For me, the cost is amazing too. Instead of spending $6AUD in GW on a smaller pot that is nearly guaranteed to dry out, I can order a Vallejo Game Colour bottle that seals properly and has more paint in it shipped from the UK for $2.50. You do have to shake the hell out of them at first, but aside from that they are superior to the Citadel product in every way. I haven't tried any of their Heavy Opaque paints yet (Vallejo's version of Foundations), but I haven't heard any complaints about them. Aside from using the GW washes I have (because they are a genuinely awesome product), I don't think I'll buy another GW paint again.
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Feb 15, 2011 06:54
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Grandpa Pap posted:I seriously got back into the hobby in 2001, and after a year or two*, I started using the GW paints when they had the screwcap lids. I dunno how bad the RP paints were, but the GW paints with those lids earned every bit of derision that hobbyists laid on them, just like the "flip-top" lids do nowadays. I've been in the hobby since the 90's, but haven't picked up a brush for at least 18 months. My GW screwtop pots are all dry, and about 2/3rd of my pop-tops are a write off, yet the three old hex soft tops from the late 90's are still fine (I just can't open them without a bottle opener  ).
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Feb 15, 2011 10:32
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GW washes are designed to be used straight out of the pot.
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Feb 17, 2011 15:20
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Hell Diver posted:Ulric will be looking for his helmet. (your DE and Wolves are totally boss, dude)
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Feb 23, 2011 21:31
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Hell Diver posted:Now I feel like he needs just a little bit more to finish him off. I'm torn between a tattoo on the side of his face, or maybe blackened areas under his eyes or something. Just to make him a little more sinister than your normal old warrior. Good choice man, the flesh of the face contrasts with the darkness of the armour and provides a nice bright focal point to the model. I think the darker eyes would do well, get a really really really tiny amount of unthinned Leviathan Purple and re shade under his eyes a couple of times. You've already shaded with it once so it should tie in perfectly.
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Feb 27, 2011 00:00
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What's worse than finding an obvious mold line on a new plastic mini you just cleaned and basecoated? Finding an obvious mold line on an old metal mini that's been undercoated for 3 years 
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Mar 2, 2011 15:25
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Just did the biannual paint cull. Out of 60 GW pots 20 were beyond salvation but 20 more were saved thanks to a toothpick and a few drops of matte medium (including an old Brazen Brass  ). I seriously don't know how I lived without this stuff before.
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Mar 6, 2011 14:49
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So hey I've been thinking about designs for my Guard regiment's insignias and instead of wanting to murder everything I see by trying to do little white lines freehand I was thinking of grabbing some printable waterslide paper and doing up my own transfers. Have any of you dudes played around with this stuff before? I know you need to get laser or ink specific paper, and I've heard you need to seal the print to the paper with some spray gloss otherwise it rubs right off, but are there any other things I should look out for?
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Mar 11, 2011 02:39
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Sole.Sushi posted:Grandpa Pap posted:Cheers lads. Nash posted:Since the question is up, what is generally considered the best way to prime your figures? I'm talking the spray vs brush method. What seems to give better results for most people? I go a quick black spray (thanks to whoever recommended White Knight, it's cheap and it owns) and then after half an hour go over the whole model with watered down black paint to fill in the nooks and crannies and to add another thin layer of undercoat.
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Mar 11, 2011 05:16
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Milkbags posted:The reason is because some early SPACE ORKS apparently wore power armor. But not like Mega-Nobz, Power armor much like the Terran Marine armor from Starcraft. If thats not awesome, I dont know what is. Like these?  (top two rows)  (middle row) These are from the 1991 Citadel Blue Catalogue, you can have a poke around it and more here. e: I can practically hear Bionik Eye saying "Zog, it's about toime." adamantium|wang fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Mar 19, 2011 |
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Mar 19, 2011 00:14
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Be aware though that the older sculpts are tiny compared to the modern range.
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Mar 19, 2011 02:10
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Hell Diver posted:I do love the guy in the Valkyrie, rolling with no helmet, giving no fucks. Everyone tells him to put one on, he just can't hear them over the intakes.
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Mar 23, 2011 03:28
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Use Space Wolves Grey instead. Looking good, I'd maybe give the bases a wash of something or use a darker brown basecoat and darken them up to contrast the bright model on top a bit more.
adamantium|wang fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Mar 23, 2011 |
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Mar 23, 2011 22:49
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Think I'll post this here, less chance of being swept away by Grey Knight plastics   from the other thread: adamantium|wang posted:Not going for
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Mar 24, 2011 04:45
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I like it. What powerfist is that? Command Squad power fist taken from the lovely 90 degree angle arm and put on a straight one. Skull is from a winged skull from an Imperial tank trimmed down. Face is fine, a bit washed out in the photos. I did think about doing the eyes but these ones are super squinty and none of my brushes can hold a point that narrow for more than 17 nanoseconds these days. Besides, at tabletop range it won't matter, and if I did do them my OCD would condemn me to do them on every single goddamned Guardsman.
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Mar 24, 2011 05:28
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Thanks guys. Here's the Vox Caster. 
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Mar 24, 2011 08:32
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spacegoat posted:Crosspostin' Like I said, brown > bone base will probably set the dude off. Awesome work dude.
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Mar 31, 2011 14:37
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Crosspoastin' without the  adamantium|wang posted:As before, not top notch but above table top quality, with a few details to make 'em stand out. What do you guys think?
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Apr 1, 2011 00:51
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Wazzu posted:And by some reports, codex grey has changed so much as to be like a new colour. gently caress I knew it wasn't just me.
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Apr 2, 2011 14:21
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Well, whichever way they go we can be sure of one thing:AnUninvitedGuest posted:It's an excuse to jack prices up another 15%.
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Apr 5, 2011 22:55
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You know, if I did Grey Knights, I'd get myself a couple of flexible ammo belts. The pic they use for it is pretty horrible, but there are 5 styles of ammo belt there that are supposed to be a fit for bolters. They have larger ones for heavy bolters as well. They're a semi-flexible resin cast around a wire, so you can gently bend them to the shape you need them. A bit expensive at 6 quid for 5, each is 50mm long so one pack should see you a through a squad. If anyone gets them be sure to measure the feed aperture on the storm bolter to make sure you get a good fit. e: wait, maybe scratch that. Dakka has a review up saying the quality ain't that good. quote:NOTE: Those hoping to use these to replace the new clips on the plastic grey knights should know that they are all slightly bigger than the ammo feeds on the metal miniatures. I do no know how they will fit with the new plastics as I have not been able to get my hands on them. However, you should note that the belt on the metal minis closely resembles the Y segment belt in the "Large ammo belt" set, that belt is nearly twice as large as the metal mini's belt though. ee: here's the seller's thread on Dakka with more pics and size discussion. adamantium|wang fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Apr 11, 2011 |
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Apr 11, 2011 01:20
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!amicable posted:Where did this resin Angron come from? Also, head 1 is a lot cooler. The helmet actually looks pretty loving goofy in that shot. The helmet looks goofy because it's smaller than his bare head, even without the horns.
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Apr 12, 2011 15:55
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Haven't seen anyone posting these in any of the threads lately. Maelstrom's having a 16% off Easter Sale until May 2nd.quote:Hi there, After getting this I realised that the reason my brushes are horrible at holding a point is they are at least 4 years old, and probably closer to 6. Used the code to grab 6 Army Painter brushes for a hair under $25AU. I've heard them recommended for general use, hope they work out okay 
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Apr 24, 2011 13:42
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 Someone motivate me to finish these mortars e: poo poo, missed the dark background adamantium|wang fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Apr 27, 2011 |
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Apr 27, 2011 02:35
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Tuxedo Jack posted:So I had been looking for a Battlefoam 1520XL (they are out of stock until July) - and found that http://www.ccgarmory.com/ had one in stock. I ordered it. Has anyone ever heard of this place before? Are they a fairly reputable seller? I've honestly never heard of Battlefoam before. So, uh, it's normal to spend ages plotting out custom trays, right?
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Apr 29, 2011 15:15
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It's just between one of these, a strap and some custom trays, I could build a custom set up to protect all the dudes plus vehicles in an army for a cost comparable to the generic GW cases. Actually quite a bit less, seeing as how I would have to spread them out between 2 GW cases. Thank God I don't have that kind of money to spare right now. e: They want $62 to ship 5 trays to Aus. Is the foam high density? How much would one regular tray weigh roughly? ee: according to the USPS that's cheap 
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Apr 29, 2011 15:34
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Bhyo posted:Having Comissar Yarrick cost 30 quid by the end of the year would have been plain ridiculous. We've still got 7 months to go, don't go giving them goddamned ideas  e: Yarrick down here is already 18
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May 29, 2011 23:48
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ghetto wormhole posted:Could anyone show me some pictures of Cadians with grey armor and/or give me tips on a color scheme? I want them to at least sort of match my Steel Legion vehicles which will be Adeptus Battlegrey. Adeptus Battlegrey seems a little dark on Cadians so I tried a 50/50 mix of Astronomicon Grey and Badab Black which looks pretty good, but I can't figure out what color to paint the fatigues. My dudes have black armour and grey fatigues if that helps. Pics from when I was motivated to paint:       Armour is Chaos Black with Shadow Grey and Space Wolves Grey highlights. Fatigues are Adeptus Battlegrey washed with Badab Black, then highlighted with Codex and Fortress Grey and washed again.
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Jun 18, 2011 03:13
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Crayvex posted:They look great but why didn't you paint the eyes? WHY? WHY? 1) My brushes were years old at the time 2) They're tabletop quality 3) I've got 101 Guardsmen to paint and if I do one, I'll do all 202 eyes. e: should I buy googly eyes y/n
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Jun 18, 2011 15:00
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