|
Zarkov Cortez posted:I know this is a bit of an old post to respond to but I need this model so bad so I can paint it up for my better half, she loves her fairies and things and whatnot and I think she'd love it  But godamn, 30 euros including postage? gently caress that noise 
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2009 23:06
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 00:49 |
|
|
!amicable posted:Guess you don't love her 30E worth. drat right I don't!  Zarkov Cortez posted:Keep in mind those are 1/35 scale (54mm) I know  I'll see if I can find any UK distributors I guess, the postage from France was pretty much half of that total.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 1, 2009 11:59
|
|
|
Catfishenfuego posted:They sell them on Maelstrom Games. You genius, thanks 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 1, 2009 14:14
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:That's part of my plan. I'm not sure whether it'd be best to mix ink with the effect, or just paint the a false bottom and then pour water effects over the top though. If you do the latter, make sure the water effects is only a thin coat else you'll run into the possibility that it'll just look like vaguely clear liquid over a green base. Hope that makes sense  I've just had an undercoating frenzy.. 1 librarian, 1 dreadnought and 5 assault marines and I've just ordered that tinkerbell & bismarck model from the smog range  woop. Now to break out the paints 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 1, 2009 21:35
|
|
|
Cthulu Carl posted:Yeah I think that's the route I might go,but I'll probably try one more idea and give the pig a couple wheels on the back of him, like those "wheelchairs" for dogs and stuff with paralyzed hind legs. There was an RT era cyboar that had something like this, the back end was just armoured and it had a wheel in place of its back legs. Googling like crazy to find an image but not having much luck at the mo.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2009 22:47
|
|
|
LewdMonocle posted:For a sub of a sub forum this thread is moving fast. That's because all of the posters in the GBS thread who didn't come here anyway have now noticed this thread
|
|
#
¿
Dec 19, 2009 22:42
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:Also, this thread is actually useful and because we dont talk about game systems and rules and stuff, it doesnt implode into sperg Well actually I think you'll find that that's the incorrect use of sepia wash and you've totally muffed up that undercoat
|
|
#
¿
Dec 19, 2009 22:59
|
|
|
crime fighting hog posted:I know PV does his gold as Mithril Sepia Sepia but I was wondering other ways. Usually I would do it burnished gold then wash it with some sepia but I think I saw a recipe that was I've heard of scorched brown being used as a base for gold before, I've done it once or twice myself, the only thing I could say is that it helps coverage a bit from what I remember.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 19, 2009 23:11
|
|
|
What's the general consensus on the army painter sprays? Are they up to the job or are they a pile of shite? Might make life a bit easier but I can't see myself pulling myself away from a pure black undercoat any time soon 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 20, 2009 13:54
|
|
|
I'm a big fan of overbrushing with scorched brown, then drybrushing up through 2-3 shades of grey. Does the job and never seems too overpowering.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 23, 2009 19:16
|
|
|
Aetilus posted:seriously. I'm more bothered about superglue frosting the paint on a model I've spent an age painting than I am about melting details off. If you're using a totally retarded glue dispenser then yea, I can see your point.. but if you're using one of those needle applicators then it's all good, you can just put the glue wherever you need it, no more and no less. One other thing I've found over the years with plastic cement is to rough up the areas you're joining by marking lines in both sides of the plastic with a hobby knife, apply glue to both sides and give it 10 seconds to do its thing, then slap the bits together. Holds pretty instantly and there's not much chance of it slipping and frustrating you.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2009 01:24
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:How do you goons with kids cope by the way? I picked up a paintbrush for the first time since the beginning of November just the other night All joking aside, it's just finding the time to sit down and do stuff without interuption. If you don't mind interuptions then it's all cool I guess and you can just stop and start as needed
|
|
#
¿
Jan 2, 2010 01:43
|
|
|
CyberLord XP posted:Just got a bunch of VGC inks. Do I need to water them down at all? They are basically extra heavy washes right? Where do you guys tend to use them? I tend to use them 1:1 with water, replacing one drop of water for future floor polish but even then that's still a pretty strong wash. Give it a whizz and try a few testers out before you dive into painting anything worth $$$. I used the dark green ink and then sepia ink, straight from the bottle, on a white undercoat as a base to paint deathguard and they came out fairly grungy looking. edit: hurr, just checked the thread in question on EOW and I already posted pics of the deathguard I painted on there 
enri fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Jan 3, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2010 01:04
|
|
|
Jonny Nox posted:As an added bonus, you won't dip your brush in the coffee mug right beside your water jar. (Every loving time!) I've never managed to do this, I have on occasion almost drunk from my water pot though. Although given the fact that I use a pint glass as my water pot, I guess it serves me right for being stupid enough to put another pint glass right next to it with my drink in it.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 5, 2010 15:35
|
|
|
Anphrax posted:Maybe someone else might have a solution for this, but, look at the bottles before you buy them. Some (bleached bone I think) have two colors that you have to mix together real well before using. And they seperate every loving time. The metallics suck as somebody said above, and if you don't, I don't know... use medical tools to clean the inside of the nozzle, it will get clogged and crack the nozzle (this happened to my white). One tip I saw for vallejo paints was, other than to shake the pot really vigorously, was to slam the bottom of the bottle against something hard / the palm of your hand / etc. to dislodge any gunk that had settled. Works a treat for me, I have more trouble with foundation paints separating than I do vallejo. Speaking of which, I'm sure it's just me but every time I thin orkhide shade out it begins to separate, meaning I have to violently mix it up on the palette every time I go to load my brush, a double pain in the arse when mixed with black for my DA basecoats... and don't start me on painting vehicles with that mix either  Iron Squid posted:Whoops. for plastics, just scrape a bit of the paint away and rough it up with the tip of your modelling knife, do the same on the contact area of the feet and you should be fine.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 6, 2010 09:54
|
|
|
Iron Squid posted:Also, for my Chaos Space Marines, I've assembled the torsos and the legs but everything else I feel like I want to paint separately. If I assemble it now, its going to have pieces too close to other pieces for me to paint properly. That's how I paint marines in general, legs and torso together... then arms, shoulder pads and weapons get assembled separately... heads and backpacks stay separate as well. I'd post a pic but I'm too lazy to re-host (it's on imagesh4ck )
|
|
#
¿
Jan 6, 2010 22:32
|
|
|
jigokuman posted:It is a mistake I commonly make. I tend to make things kind of gentle and gradual, but you really have to go overboard with highlighting and shading on minis to make them look interesting. 'sup underhighlighting buddy. I do this every drat time I start a new army off and work out a nice method of painting, but of course being a stickler for keeping everything identical, means I can't then go and change my technique without feeling obliged to re-visit a bunch of poo poo when I realise that my highlights are barely noticeable under anything but a daylight lamp Iron Squid posted:When you do that, do you put anything protective over the area of the mini that you're going to paint (ie: where the arms attach?) Or else do you just prime the whole thing and put glue on over the primer? I do my basing before priming so the base gets attached, gets a covering of sand etc. and gets undercoated with the rest. As for masking areas off, in a nutshell... no. But with plastics, I scrape the paint away on the contact points before gluing (easily done with marines because most of the contact points are hidden away.. I wouldn't fancy doing the same with the arms on an ork for example) In some instances, I actually glue some parts to spare pieces of sprue via those contact points (usually on those little nobbly pokey out bits that you see on sprues) Bugger it, I'll re-host that pic, it'll make more sense if you can see it:  This is post-basecoat, you can see that I paint the bases before I do anything else to save me from drybrushing all sorts of weird and wonderful greys and browns onto the model itself. You can see a row of helmets still glued to their sprue too. If I wasn't so lazy, I'd have fitted the jump packs to spare sprue too, just to make life easier but... I didn't... so life is hard. Just finished giving those guys their first wash 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2010 02:10
|
|
|
Iron Squid posted:I spray my primer in the basement, then crack a window. I've been smoking whilst priming for longer than I can remember and yes, it's not a naked flame but it drat well takes one to get the drat things lit  One of these days I'll explode whilst priming then we'll see who's laughing edit: it's a slow start at work for the first week post-christmas, snow isn't helping matters much and I'm itching to take full advantage of the fact that I work from home 3/5 of the week... how tempting is it to crack open a pot of khemri brown and basecoat some deathwing whilst it's quiet
enri fucked around with this message at 12:29 on Jan 7, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2010 09:58
|
|
|
Fix posted:I'd like to hear what others do to break up painters' block. I haven't painted anything in nearly a month thanks to traveling, and looking at the unfinished project on my desk, I just can't bring myself to leap right back into it. It's all assembly line boring troops. I know people have already replied to this but I'm late to the party and figured I'd throw in my 2 cents anyway. Basically, the only way I can get out of painters block is to have two, three, maybe even four painting projects on the go at once. It's great when you're in the swing of things, to just chop and change around as and when you like it. It also helps keep you focused on painting when you have to wait for something to dry. Just slapped ink all over a bunch of space marines? No problem, just move them aside and get on with the dark elves Music and/or DVD commentary tracks help if you haven't got another project to work on. Just listen and paint.. the sooner it's done the sooner you don't have to worry about how to slog through painting the boots on 20 dark elves. Anphrax posted:Word Bearers army 'sup 'the best traitor legion ever' buddy  Danger - Octopus! posted:Plenty of scale modellers prime with various brands of spray paint that are intended for spraying cars, so if there's any of that around you're probably good. Just test it first to see if it comes out too thick. Halfords car primer user checking in
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2010 10:07
|
|
|
dpack_1 posted:Does anyone know if you can add a touch of green paint / wash / ink to GW's water effects to get a more swamp water look to the finish of will that mess up the curing process and end up with a goopy mess? You can, but do a few experiments first. You only need the slightest hint of colour in most cases.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2010 15:39
|
|
|
dpack_1 posted:what would be best to use to change the colour? a thin paint, inks, washes or something outside the box like food colouring? or should i just test it all in small test pots to find the results i'm looking for? Definitely do a few sample test pots. I've only ever used inks to be honest, this is what made me try it: http://www.hirstarts.com/tips17/tips17.html#fountain Scroll down a short ways, replace 'envirotex lite' with 'water effects' and you'll get much the same results, there or thereabouts.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2010 16:02
|
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:The poured silicone looks like this. While the instructions didn't specify to do so, I carefully agitated the whole mold to shake out any large air bubbles. You'll want to do this, especially molds with a lot of deep negative spaces, to avoid air bubbles sticking to the masters. An alternative to agitating is to brush some of the silicone over the models by hand before you pour
|
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2010 09:40
|
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:Almost forgot to mention this before, but if anyone finds this kit or the equivalent available in the UK, let me know I've done some mold making before but because I couldn't find a starter 'kit' then I only got so far as buying a bunch of silicone and making molds. Never got round to sourcing decent resin in manageable quantities to cast in. I ended up doing practice casts in plaster
enri fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Jan 15, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2010 13:42
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Enri, have a look at this, see if it has what you need? If you just want resin I'd have a look here instead. Looks good but I see no mention of silicone (I see latex but ehh... all my previous experience and all the guides I've gobbled up in the past have always mentioned using silicone) I might just plump up the cash for a big old vat of silicone seeing as what I've got left is probably well out of date and then pick up some resin too. I'll just cobble together whatever else I need out of household goodies Cakefool posted:A goon asked me to make them some bases like the ones I made for my terminators... I need whatever crazy tool it is that you've got to cut out perfectly formed circles
enri fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Jan 15, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2010 15:14
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:Indeed, that does interest me. Very much so. Genius.. ordering one now  Completely unrelated question, what is it that people use with weathering powder to spread it around, is it white spirit? and if so, will turpentine substitute be a likely er... substitute?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2010 17:55
|
|
|
Morham posted:I just bought some paints from http://www.waylandgames.co.uk/index.php and they arrived really quickly (in fact I ordered on the 13th and it arrived on the 15th) and well packaged...I can only assume they will be just as prompted with other orders but they have a huge range of models and hobby equipment. I need to use them a few times before I recommend them, but for a first order I was definately impressed! I've started ordering bits from there recently, good service overall but my goodies took a little while to turn up (but I think everywhere was having the same issues with the particular range of minis)
|
|
#
¿
Jan 16, 2010 01:08
|
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:http://www.nigellawton009.com/PayPalCasting.html Sweet jesus, how the hell did you even begin to read that page? It's like someone, somehow, managed a create a web based migraine creator. unghhhh... although, thanks for that, no amount of clever googling found it from this end
|
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2010 02:01
|
|
|
The Saddest Robot posted:Slowly working on my Trygon. This thing is a bitch to paint, so much model, so much more to paint Any chances of a tutorial on how you've done the non-carapace areas once you're finished? 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2010 13:06
|
|
|
Flying Guillotine posted:Whether you use certain paints enough you'd want to make pre-mixes in empty pots, I don't know. I do make a note of ratios for colours that I'm mixing when painting armies or for a scheme I know I'm going to repeat. Saves mixing up an indeterminate amount but allows you to use your custom mixes as much as you like. Just means mixing the godamn thing every time you want to use it.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2010 18:22
|
|
|
Gotta love the sob story that goes with it edit: missed this first time round The Saddest Robot posted:It's pretty simple (in theory). Ok, didn't need the guide on how to lay paint down, just whatever paints you'd used but thanks all the same, definitely like the look and the orange really suits it.
enri fucked around with this message at 13:08 on Jan 20, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2010 12:19
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:Was the Venomthrope as much of a pain to balance as it looks? My money's on there being a 5mm thick brass rod running right through that fucker, looks like a horrible horrible model to assemble
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2010 16:57
|
|
|
I can't think of one metal multi-part model I've had a bad time assembling vv I must be a modelling genius (or extremely lucky)
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2010 18:26
|
|
|
Gravitas Shortfall posted:You are clinically insane for painting a horde army to this standard, kudos to you because these guys look absolutely crackin'
|
|
#
¿
Jan 24, 2010 12:25
|
|
|
yea, daylight bulb is what you want.. as Aranan says, the light is much whiter than a standard bulb.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2010 17:41
|
|
|
Devlan Mud posted:Pretty sure Klear is Future Floor Wax, just the UK branding of it. It is indeed Furret Basket, the home cleaning aisles in Morrisons / Tesco / Sainsbury / et al should have it floating around somewhere.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2010 01:02
|
|
|
PaintVagrant, what brand static grass do you use? All the static grass I've ever seen and used has been way too short whereas yours seems to be quite cool for that 'clumpy lump of dead grass' look and has a bit of body to it.. lets us in on your secrets puuuuh-leeeeeaaaaaase
|
|
#
¿
Feb 1, 2010 16:53
|
|
|
Fix posted:On another topic, what's the best possible bit of advice you guys can give me regarding static grass? I've never used it. Don't inhale it, it tickles Other than that.. I'm out v v I want PV to tell us how he gets those perfect little clumps of static grass, my attempts always end up in a flat spot of static grass that frankly just looks a bit turd.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2010 12:06
|
|
|
You heard the man PV, spill the beans 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2010 12:28
|
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:1 - drop of elmers glue applied directly on top of the sand that is already painted I.. I don't get it.. this is what I do  I'll give it a go with a different brand of static grass as soon as I can (lovely GW static grass representin')
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2010 16:58
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 21, 2024 00:49 |
|
|
PaintVagrant posted:...dont thin it... ding ding! we have a winner!  I guess I had to pay the price for my habitual watering down of everything at some point. 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2010 17:23
|
|