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I've got 5 tactical marines and 5 assault marines I want to paint and stick in the shop window. I'm thinking I should paint them each in a different color scheme. I'm not sure if I should paint main chapters that have codexes and special rules and fancy upgrade bits or if I should paint other chapters. Any ideas for this project?
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Oct 5, 2009 18:20
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Ashcans posted:Has anyone used Vallejo's crackle medium? I bought some to try it out, but so far it doesn't seem to work. The guy I tested it on just looks very glossy, no sign of crackling after a full 90 minutes. I'm going to leave him overnight and see if anything develops, but I'm not optimistic. poo poo. I was just playing with that the other day. There are two methods. One uses the crackle medium between two layers of color, which I didn't try. and one uses crackle medium on the top layer. My results were pretty crappy. I tried it out on a piece of plasticard and then on a Tau warrior that was lying around the shop. The first time I painted one layer of red paint on plasticard then painted over it with a section of crackle medium and two sections of crackle medium mixed with color. Mixing it with color doesn't really do anything. The other part had all the paint peel off. Next time, I sprayed the plasticard with red Krylon Fusion, then painted over the whole thing with a coat of black paint. Then I painted a thin coat of crackle medium over half the card and a really thick coat over the other half. Then I read this tutorial and went home to let it dry over night. I also globbed it on to a some Tau dude that was left at the shop for god knows how long. Nothing happened but I don't know what it was painted with in the first place. The second plasticard had some fair results but we couldn't really think of a use for it.
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Oct 9, 2009 08:05
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KingMob posted:I was on a tear yesterday getting my Malifaux stuff assembed / based. The models look much better than the studio paint jobs suggest. I only have gap filling to do on two minis, and then they're ready to prime (white this time; going for a brighter tone than usual). Cool. So I guess the minis don't come with the fantastic base inserts? I saw they sold them separately but I didn't know if they also came with the minis. Our group has been thinking about Malifaux or Anima tactics as our next minis game. We've tried a bunch that didn't stick. Infinity (I got models for this but it died out before I got a chance to play) and Uncharted Seas (I didn't feel like painting boats so I didn't get in on this) were the last two unsuccessful games for our group. We still play a BloodBowl league every year or so and I would like to bring back Necromunda or Mordhiem. I liked Necromunda and we played it a lot back in the day.
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Oct 11, 2009 23:10
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Zarkov Cortez posted:What is this? I need this.
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Oct 16, 2009 00:26
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I've kind of given up on painting my Lizardmen since I played a game of Warhammer Fantasy and remember that I hate it. The models are cool though.  I picked up painting my Menoth again since I actually like playing that game. My Zealots were done and I'm determined to finish my Temple Flameguard before my Malifaux stuff comes in next week. They're almost done and now I've got access to a light box so hopefully I'll finish them in time to take some pictures tomorrow at work.
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Nov 4, 2009 23:09
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aldantefax posted:Question: What do you guys use for a physical palette? I used to know a guy who was really good at painting minis, and he would use a piece of glossy white ceramic tile in addition to some small ceramic bowls for color-specific gradients that he was trying to get. Also, how should a painting area be lit? Incandescent and fluorescent kind of make models look differently, as I understand it. I've used the P3 wet palette and I really liked it but sometimes I'm too lazy to set it up. I also use this because it has little wells for mixing my own washes and whatever. I got it at Hobby Lobby. I also know a really good painter who uses a ceramic tile.
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Nov 6, 2009 09:28
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I've seen this in action. Someone at my shop stripped a whole army using this and an Xacto knife to pick out the little bits that got stuck in the cracks. I forgot what solvent they used but it wasn't one I remember reading about before. It sprayed on but it wasn't oven cleaner. And it was for metal only. I don't see a point in getting this to strip one model but he said it was totally worth it to strip a whole army. If your hands won't stop shaking, lay off the caffeine. If you can manage to quit completely, you will notice a dramatic decrease in shakiness. Unless you have some other medical problem.
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Dec 11, 2009 04:15
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Zarkov Cortez posted:Looks like one of those cheap toothbrushes. It is except it is bigger, about the size of a quarter in diameter maybe and has firmer bristles than a toothbrush but they're still soft enough not to score the metal like wire bristles.
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Dec 11, 2009 21:59
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In the past I've used metal fingernail files that you get in the beauty section of the drug store. I've found they are finer than the GW ones. I haven't tried the other brands since they look exactly the same.Nique posted:Having some problems with white lion pelts though, I can't find anything that doesn't look like utter poo poo (it looks flat and any colour / colour mix just doesn't look right). They were primed white if that is relevant. Any basic advice that could help? White Lion pelts sound easy. Seams like you would start with a light yellowish-brown and dry brush up to an off-white or white. aldantefax posted:I'm wondering - what are good models to practice painting on? Like, in order to help develop techniques without worry too much about getting mistakes you can't redo, are there certain kinds of minis that are good for just kind of getting paint onto to see how it turns out without shelling a lot of cash? Check out some local game stores and see if they have any minis for cheap. I've got ton of minis at my store that are not for any of the big games that would be great at practicing painting on. I'm talking cheap like $1 a mini. PM me if you are interested in a deal.
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Dec 12, 2009 04:52
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ineptmule posted:Considering how absurdly protective the 'hams at my local GW are over their OOP RARE TENTACLE PINK they'd probably murder me for my two pots if they had any inkling I had them. That's retarded. Vallejo Game Color comes in Squid Pink which matches Tentacle Pink about as exactly as any two pots of Tentacle Pink match each other. It's still in print and retails for 2.99 so you can probably find it cheaper if you look. So the answer is clearly to paint your bases Tentacle Pink.
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Dec 12, 2009 21:57
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Aranan posted:Wait, what? Is this basically GW Boltgun in a spray can? drat, that could be useful! I thought the Army Painter was Chainmail? Did they come out with a new one? VVV Really? I tested it out on a marine and I remember it being Chainmail. I can't find any color match charts online. GoodBee fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Dec 17, 2009 |
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Dec 17, 2009 00:08
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   I know the gold looks like rear end but I don't want to repaint it all. Maybe a darker wash over it would work? I need to work on taking better pictures. I've read the tutorials, I just need practice. Overall, I'm really happy with how this is coming out. It looks good on the table.
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Dec 24, 2009 19:32
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Lightening the gold seems like the answer but I don't want to use pure silver. I've got Shining Gold on there now, can I lighten it with a lighter gold? What about mixing something (silver?) in with the gold I have for a lighter gold? Highlight silver then sepia wash? I hate metallics.
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Dec 24, 2009 20:15
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bhsman posted:Shining gold + Mithril silver = Are you talking about mixing them or just highlights?
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Dec 24, 2009 20:20
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dpack_1 posted:And i'm thinking of going for a sand and static grass base. Your dragon is pretty. :3 Sand painted like the rocks would look great but I'm not digging the idea of green static grass on that base. If you've got it on the rest of your army, it would tie everything together and look better as an army. As a stand alone piece, I would leave the static grass off of this one. I'm just thinking about the GW neon grass or the one with a little red in it, if you've got something else in mind, disreguard. Maybe if you drybrushed the static grass? Either with some off-white to tone it down or if you could get it a blueish-green somehow. I've never tried this but I would probably do some test bases. Maybe a thin blue or turquoise wash over just the static grass?
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Dec 29, 2009 04:09
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I used to paint straight from the pot when I didn't know any better. It's not so bad when you open a fresh pot but the longer you paint straight from the pot, the thicker the paint gets. I used to pour water directly into the pots when I noticed them getting thick and thin my paint that way. Now I paint like a normal person.
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Dec 30, 2009 12:05
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berzerkmonkey posted:Has anyone used the P3 brushes? I ordered the W&N Series 7 miniature brushes, but I think I should have also picked up some regular #1 and #2 Series 7 brushes. I was wondering if the P3 brushes are any good, or if they are the normal cheap brushes everyone else offers. I like the P3 brushes better than the similar priced brushes I can get at an art store. I hate the Army Painter brushes for the most part. I think they make a good tank brush, but I don't paint tanks so I'm not positive. I picked up some W&N Series 7 miniature brushes a while back, planning to use them when my cheaper brushes wore out but I've gotten used to using bigger brush for everything. It's really just the point of the brush that matters. berzerkmonkey posted:Also, has anyone tried the Army Painter Red? I was wondering if it was similar to any existing GW or Vallejo paints. I haven't worked with it but I've seen it in use. All of the Army Painter sprays match a GW color pretty much exactly. They seem to match about as well as any two pots of GW match each other. I think the Red is either Blood Red or a step darker. I'm not remembering my GW reds right now. I know the Greenskin Green matches GW Snot Green. If you want me to double check what color the Red matches, I can.
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Jan 1, 2010 16:30
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Sole.Sushi posted:Now, some of you who know me will ask why I'm using green stuff over ProCreate for this application, and for one simple reason: Green stuff has a habit of remaining thicker, and stiffer, while being worked and cured. For the exact same reason it doesn't take to fine details as readily as ProCreate, it works perfectly for this project. This is a really useful piece of information. I read your and someone elses earlier posts about the other types too. Now, if someone is just looking for a putty to fill gaps and not do any sculpting then you can't really go wrong with any of the putties?
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Jan 5, 2010 19:13
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Anyone need 1/72 scale plastic army men? PM me and I might be able to hook you up.
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Jan 9, 2010 23:52
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Furret Basket posted:Ignoring the lol-gogglies here's my first Tyranid. I think googly eyes on Tyranids is the best thing ever. It makes me want to buy a box of gaunts just to do this.
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Jan 29, 2010 10:11
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omg crisis posted:I love seeing workspace shots. Everyone should post their own!! My workspace changes every day. I paint at the game shop so I keep all my paints, brushes, tools, etc in a tool box and put my minis away when I'm done. We've got a guy that makes awesome portable paint stations. He made one and brought it up to the shop and I thought about trying it out but it was too big and heavy for me to move without any stuff on it so I requested he make me one a little smaller. When he gets around to it I'll totally post that because the full sized ones are awesome. PaintVagrant posted:more cool 1/35 poo poo from smart max, the co that makes SMOG and MAUSER So SMOG is Inquisitor sized? My brother really wants an excuse to paint some of there models and I really want a clockwork praying mantis with a top hat and monocle. Where in the US can you get these things? Preferably a distributor. PierreTheMime posted:So should I add a wash to the sand or should I actually paint and/or drybrush it? I'mg going to try a test base either way. I'd like to try and keep the same color, though if it comes out nicely I may redo all the finished bases with the updated basing. Try just washing it first if it's pretty much the color you want it to be. You can save a lot of time on the whole army if you do a one stage wash instead of a two, three or four stage process. It may not take much for one model but it can add up over time. Plus if you think don't really like the just wash you can always go back and do a more complicated process. So, I got a couple of gaunts and genestealers from bhsman on Friday, painted them up simply on Sunday, and stuck googly eyes on them this afternoon. I couldn't be happier. I swiped my friend's Hive Tyrant to start painting to add to the mix. He said he would kind of like something in exchange for it. I told him he could have a fully painted Hive Tyrant with googly eyes. 
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Feb 10, 2010 09:46
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My brother called dibs on this but, gently caress it, he's never going to do it and I want to see it done. I want someone to do a Raptor Chapter Marines army using the Space Wolf codex. Use these guys Make the cav either marines on those guys or Cold Ones and make the wolf pack those guys. My brother and I started playing in 2nd Ed and we both played a little in 3rd Ed. His exact words were, "If they ever make the game playable again, that's what I'm doing. Don't go posting it on the internet." I'm sure someone has thought of it but I haven't seen it done well or at all. He's got a totally playable Eldar force he's trying to sell and I've have had a fully painted Witchhunters (completely Sister's) Army that's been sitting in the case for years because we don't play 40K. He's not going to pick it up again so I want to see someone else do it. I painted that one Raptor Chapter marine and decided if I was ever going to paint marines, that would be the one I would do. But then I realized that my true 40K love was the one I started with, bugs. Especially with googly eyes. I painted a handful of them this week and they make me so happy every time I see them.
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Feb 11, 2010 07:44
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Feeple posted:Hey, Goodbee: waht that Eldar like your borther keeps trying to sell off? What on earth are you asking me?
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Feb 12, 2010 17:03
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Anphrax posted:Can I use rustoleom gloss coat and then use dull coat or do I need to buy GWs stupidly expensive 'ard coat? I still like to paint 'ard coat on pointy bits for extra protection. I don't normally use it all over. I've used it on Tyranid carapace to make it shiny and painted in my Warpwolf's mouth to make it look wet. It's useful stuff. Feeple posted:Dammit, sorry. Yes, I was inquiring as to what Eldar your brother was selling, as I may be interested in purchasing it. I promise to check that I'm typing an actual language in the future. No problem. He's got the Ulthwe super Guardian army. All painted black and bone. 2 Farseers 13 Warlocks 1 Avatar 32 Guardians w/1 Star Cannon, 1 Brightlance plus crew 20 Storm Guardians 3 Shadow Weavers with crew 2 War Walkers w/Star Cannon/Brightlance 3 Vipers - 2 Star Cannon, 1 Brightlance 3 Jetbikes 1 Shrieker Jetbike 1 Warlock on Jetbike 6 Swooping Hawks 1 Swooping Hawk Exarch I'll give him your email address. Have you looked at them in person and/or talked to him about buying it already?
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Feb 13, 2010 18:41
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Skarsnik posted:Don't suppose you could find it on the ikea website and post a link? My photography at the moment is entirely based on the availability of the sun, and it seems to dislike Cardiff most of the time.. Here's something else. Some of us are lazy and like to order everything at once and not have to look around for parts. It looks like it comes with a carrying case and that's cool. I would rather have something like this than what I've got now. You can probably find it somewhere cheaper. Now I've got a wooden frame covered in tracing paper. It's huge and I hate getting it out for pictures. I've also got a couple of old desk lamps that get way too hot.
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Feb 16, 2010 01:44
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Tarquinn posted:Guys, how do I paint blonde hair so that it doesn't look like being on an anime character? MasterSlowPoke posted:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/259096.page That worth it if it's for a character. But seriously, Bubonic Brown base coat, dry brush sunburst yellow. For more muted, Bubonic Brown, wash Sepia, dry brush Bubonic Brown.
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Feb 17, 2010 10:36
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Cricondentherm posted:Crossposting, since I didn't get an answer in the warhammer thread. I keep managing to post my questions in the middle of ongoing conversations like an idiot. I like the green one but I'm biased since that's the one I picked out if I was ever going to do Nids again. It's what I used when I painted the couple of bugs I got from bhsman a couple of weeks ago. I'll take a picture if your interested. I used the Army Painter Army Green spray primer, which actually matches Knarloc Green. Then dry brushed Camo Green then Rotting Flesh over it. I just did the carapaces and claws black, but if I really cared I would do some highlights, probably in greens and browns there. For the couple I did before, I did the little muscle bits with bubonic brown with one highlight of bubonic brown mixed with bleached bone. And the weapon hoses, tongues and other extra bits were orange. I matte varnished them and painted the carapaces with clear gloss varnish for shininess. It was pretty simple to start with but holy crap did spray base coating the green make it so much faster. ineptmule posted:Aargh gently caress. I'm trying to paint the skin on my Oathed Elves and on my Escher gangers and I'm experimenting with different degrees of thinning (I know, like milk... what the gently caress is the consistency of milk There is a fine line when using just water and paint. If you use a little mixing medium it's a little easier to get it thin enough without streaking.
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Feb 19, 2010 22:34
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) and basically don't seem to be able to avoid either a really streaky finish or a really clumpy texture... What am I doing wrong?
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I painted this Reaper mini tonight. Mine looks like Ronald Reagan.
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Feb 20, 2010 03:52
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Cakefool posted:I've just removed the mold lines from 25 torso fronts, backs & pairs of legs. Tomorrow, arms, heads & backpacks. Eye-gougingly fun stuff. http://www.shop.microartstudio.com/skulls-bases-round-25mm-p-142.html
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Feb 23, 2010 23:14
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bhsman posted:But those are...bases? Yeah, those are bases. If one was going to try to put the most skulls on one marine then they should get the most skulls as possible on his base too.
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Feb 24, 2010 08:01
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Danger - Octopus! posted:What GW colours would be a good base for a kind of weatherbeaten middle-eastern skin tone? I've tried mixing things up and can't get anything that looks quite right? I can't help you with GW colors but I've been painting my Menoth with that skin tone using P3 paints. For nice basic trooper skin I base Idrian Flesh and mix up to Khardic Flesh. If I'm feeling fancy, I'll either mix in some Midlund Flesh for a lighter highlight or start darker by mixing in whatever dark brown I grab (Battlefield Brown or, my favorite color, Umbral Umber) with the Idrian Flesh for the base coat. I've been toying around with the idea of trying my hand at painting a figure using only two paints, Umbral Unber and Menoth White Highlight. I just don't know what I should try this on. I'm thinking a Reaper figure.
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Mar 12, 2010 06:34
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Aranan posted:So! What solution do you goons use for storing your mans and supplies? I paint at the game shop mostly so I like to be able to carry my stuff around. I've got a plastic tool box with all my modeling supplies in it. My paints used to fit in the bottom but that's full of basing material now. Models live in their carrying case when I'm not actually painting them. My brother keeps all of his paints and modeling supplies in this metal cash box. He has a small tool box for his work in progress.
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Apr 19, 2011 20:23
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Galaga Galaxian posted:I figure it'd help try to get people into Bloodbowl around my FLGS if I have more than just my Orcs and the owner's Lizardmen to play with. So since I'm stuck waiting for my box of 40k boys to arrive on Friday to continue work on my Orc Bloodbowl team, I decided to take a crack at making another! With permission from my friend, the owner, I grabbed some Dark Elf Corsair sprues that had been left at/to the store by someone who moved away and turned a few into these: Corsairs make an awesome BloodBowl team. My brother made one for last year's season. He picked up one of the metal assassins and I had some left over Witch Elves from when I made my Amazon team. The new Skaven boxes also make a good team. Edit: We can only play BB 6 weeks out of the year. After 6 weeks everyone hates BB and each other. Then it takes about 9 months for everyone to forget how much they hate it and after a year we're all (most) excited to play again.
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Apr 27, 2011 04:37
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crime fighting hog posted:Where would I get one of those plinths/blocks of wood that people put their display pieces on? A trophy store? Before you order anything, try hitting up a thrift store. One in my town had a bunch of trophies for $1 each. Just rip the plastic t-ball player off the top and you're set.
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Apr 28, 2011 05:23
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GW Super Glue Thin has a brush on applicator, like finger nail polish. If you glue together something with paint on it, paint gets in the glue. Old guys and people with shaky hands love the stuff. The P3 and Gale Force 9 super glues are the same as the old GW super glue. So is the Army Painter. Testor's makes one of the best plastic glues with an awesome applicator.
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Apr 29, 2011 04:15
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Mr. Onslaught posted:Can someone suggest a brush on clear coat to use? I can't tell if I want matte or glossy, so if there's something inbetween that would be cool. Vallejo makes a brush on Satin Varnish. What are you using it for?
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May 5, 2011 16:49
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Mr. Onslaught posted:I have no idea what I'm doing really, so if you think the Vallejo satin varnish would fit this color scheme best then let me know. The finish usually doesn't have anything to do with color selection but the texture of the what the material is supposed to be. Like cloth usually has a matte finish, a giant bug or something wet would probably have a glossy finish. Usually everyone I know will use a spray on matte varnish for everything and leave it at that.
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May 6, 2011 22:42
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Okay thread, does anyone have a recommendation for painting purple? I want a jewel tone purple. I'm using this as my main army color so I would really like to find something I'm not going to have to mix. I'm painting a red army now that I'm doing 3 highlights over a black base and I'm very happy with it, the outcome and the amount of effort I'm putting in. I'd kind of like to do something similar with the purple. How's the Reaper Master Series? I've figured out the Pro-paint sucks.
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May 7, 2011 08:34
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Mr_Happy_Pants posted:So I found one of the first models I ever painted: I love these. I still have the first stuff I ever painted. It was a Necromunda gang. They all had the crazy eyes, were gloss varnished and I had painted their names on their bases.
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May 14, 2011 06:11
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Tadhg posted:Picked up some Vallejo Game Gloss Varnish with the intent on making some things shiny. Quick question on it: do I water this stuff down at all, or do I use it straight? I use it straight. I'm usually using it as a protective layer then spraying a matte varnish over it so I don't know how thinning it will affect the shininess of it. I don't thin it since I think that would make it less protective.
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May 17, 2011 10:36
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