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Aranan posted:edit ^^^^^ Use birch seed leaves. http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/24 You can also buy them from various modeling places, but I don't have any links handy. Outstanding. More of these kind of tricks.
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Oct 5, 2009 13:02
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 00:56 |
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 Click here for the full 1632x916 image.  Click here for the full 1632x916 image. Bringing this duder over here because I've got a question about truescaling for anyone who has done it: I've basically done the plasticard inserts at the lower thighs and on the feet to thicken those up. Inside the torso I've got a small ring that lifts it a tiny bit, and the head is elevated only barely. All in all it gives about 3/4 a head more height (kinda hard to estimate exactly since they're in different poses with different legs and one leans so far forward). Is that enough extra height to be more intimidating? Is there somewhere else on the body I'm supposed to be adding card? Do the lower legs look out of proportion with the lengthened thighs? Also, am I supposed to be doing something about lengthening arms? Because that seems like a right bitch.
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Oct 6, 2009 23:20
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How would I go about bulking up the pads? Step it up to Terminator pads?
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Oct 7, 2009 01:13
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Zarkov Cortez posted:True Scaling guide a couple posts down, Jesus, that is incredible. I just about lost it when I got to the dreadnought. He's really got an iconic look going with those things. If GW decided to start making marines look more like that for 41k, I wouldn't mind at all. It's also an amazing amount of greenstuff work, which... well... I'm not too good at. I'm thinking I'm going to stay away from the terminator style upgrades. They really bulk the marines up, and I'm going to be putting assault packs on these things, since they're supposed to be jump troops. Maybe when it comes time to do Sword Bretheren or Chosen or something I'll try that out. Probably ought to get assembling more than one marine under my belt before I run off and attempt something so complex. 
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Oct 7, 2009 02:49
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Fyrbrand posted:Are there any full true-scale armies out there? Done right, it looks great, but it's way too impractical for doing more than a squad or so. Well the one guy on B&C who is doing the truescale World Eaters linked earlier went and made himself a mold of truescaled legs (and I think torsos?), so that would speed things along.
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Oct 7, 2009 21:40
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Ashcans posted:Has anyone used Vallejo's crackle medium? I bought some to try it out, but so far it doesn't seem to work. The guy I tested it on just looks very glossy, no sign of crackling after a full 90 minutes. I'm going to leave him overnight and see if anything develops, but I'm not optimistic. I've tried crackle medium before with pretty poor results. I didn't really work at it very hard, so there might be something to it still. Are you sure you did it right? You're supposed to put down your base color, then the crackle medium, and when that's dry, apply your top color. Reading what you wrote it sounds like you put the medium on top.
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Oct 9, 2009 07:43
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I use micron pens to do banner writing, hard shadows and highlights on my Flesh Tearer armor, and patterns and designs on my harlequins for wash/ink-only paintjobs. They're pretty fun to use.
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Oct 13, 2009 09:20
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A Tasty Lozenge posted:Also WiP Flamer chap When you guys are doing your space hulk termies, what are you using to prime them/basecoat?
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Oct 14, 2009 01:59
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Bistromatic posted:If you put a bit of styrene rod in you Dremel and then lightly hold a cutter against it you have the tiniest lathe, i've really come to enjoy that technique for tiny detail stuff. That's brilliant you're brilliant.
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Oct 16, 2009 11:19
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Angryboot posted:
I really, really like these.
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Oct 28, 2009 03:24
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Advice, plox. is becoming super-closeup brushstroke-showing macro version:  I've never painted over white primer before, so I'm learning that there are a lot of differences in technique. What are some of the basic rules you guys have figured out when making that switch from black? It's also really the first time I've done anything with blue, and I'm not sure it's working for me. I have to choose whether to make that pop more (contrast correction made it come out a bit stronger than real life in the pic above), or to make it more subdued and find some place to put a complimentary color to draw the eye. Obviously I'd intended for there to be more blue in there than this particular Sister model allows with the gun where it is and no mask. The other thing I think I'm messing up here is on the metal. I'm wondering if using yellow to represent gold on the painter page tricked my brain into thinking there was enough color contrast, but be damned if I'm going to actually paint it yellow. PV: your gold was sepia over mithril, right? Can you advise on just how thin you get your mithril first, and do you paint over any particular base color? Finally, any random thoughts on what I might do here? I'm torn, in part because it's not very grimdark, but I'm not entirely sure that wasn't the point, or even how I'd begin to rectify that.
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Oct 28, 2009 21:39
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Purple? I can't even begin to think what I might have put on there that made it purple. Is there any purple to Ogryn Flesh? Maybe it's just the fluorescent and the tweak I did in Picasa to get the contrast right. I just realized that I forgot to do the grey trim on the shoulder pads and suddenly a lot of what I perceived as messiness just went away. That gold, though. That gold.
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Oct 28, 2009 22:22
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Ashcans posted:I think that you're going to be challenged in that most of the SOB figures have your blue areas covered (chestplate and upper arms). It makes your template a little misleading. You might want to consider expanding the blue areas to make up for how most of the models are posed. Yeah, I think you're probably right. I'll put some on the pack on this one and try another one tonight with bluetit. Mix it up a bit in the squad. Edit: Fixed the gold, trying PV's method, cleaned things up a bit. 
Fix fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Oct 29, 2009 |
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Oct 29, 2009 01:04
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Ashcans posted:I like your scheme, and I think its coming in pretty nicely. Have you considered lining the shoulders in blue instead of grey at the edges? I think it might pull together the greaves nicely. Another excellent suggestion. I will try that on tonight's model. I actually pulled a bit of blue up the middle of that first one in the space of corset just between the tits and above the gun, which actually looks to have dragged the blue in from the tiny bits of upper arm that you can see and is closer to the pattern I started with. With all these kind of minor differences, I'm less worried about getting the exact same model over and over again in this army. And here I thought I was going to have to lamely fake it through just hair color. Still pretty rough at painting faces though. I think I got lucky on that first one. How I wish they'd made more of these with their cool helmets.
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Oct 29, 2009 20:51
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Oi PV, when you're doing your gold, are you pooling the wash over the mithril? I'm having a hell of a time getting enough on there to color it in the narrow areas, but never seem to have enough on the brush to actually color anything unless it's quite wet.
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Oct 30, 2009 18:48
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Yeah, that's what I ended up doing. Thanks! Edit:  Last one of these I'll post for a while, promise. Sorry for the spamming. The blue trim on the armor is kinda meh. It feels like it needs a trim of its own, separating from the white. Too light as it is. Anyone got tips for using the old inks? I tried some of the blue and... well... that's a fair bit different from using Asurmen Blue, ain't it? Fix fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Oct 30, 2009 |
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Oct 30, 2009 20:51
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Angryboot posted:Woo woo! Now I finally have a squad: Holy poo poo that's astounding.
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Oct 30, 2009 21:22
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asbo subject posted:Need some advice on thinning my paints. Use a drinking straw. Put your finger over the end when you dip it into the water and let your finger off the end to release the water into your paint.
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Nov 7, 2009 21:51
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PaintVagrant posted:Get that cheap magnetic sheet stuff with the sticky side and a hole puncher This might work, but the stuff is really weak and punching holes in it may actually make it weaker.
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Nov 19, 2009 02:31
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Crossposting from the gibbus: Paint Review (that's right, I'm reviewing paint.) So if you have shopped at Ben Franklin for some of your stuff you may have seen this Daler Rowney FW Acrylic Artists Ink. It costs about $8-9 a bottle depending on where you live and whether there are sales, but at 2.5 times the volume of GW paint pots, that's pretty comparable. There are two different kinds: primary and Opalescent. I've picked up a couple of each sort and had mixed results, but the two I want to draw your attention to are the pure white and black inks. These things are absolutely incredible. For starters, the bottles have built-in droppers for easy transference. They are pre-thinned to the exact milky consistency we look for with miniature painting, but have just the right tension to stay where you put them on your model. Combined with GW washes, you can get the highlights and lowlights you want with ease. They are also very high pigment. It is simple to paint pure, clean white over a solid black undercoat in a single pass with this stuff. One coat. The black is a rich, inky black. Thanks to the thinness of the stuff, it's also easy to drag around you palette for tinting whatever you're mixing. I found the white almost too fluid for that. The opalescent paints are not wholly appropriate for what we're doing here a lot of the time, but you can get some really cool oily effects painting washes over their silver. Highly recommended, particularly in the white and black. I'm going to see if I can find some red to see how it goes over the black, but if the white is any indication, it should be in the bag. I'd post a couple of bafore/after pics, but I still have yet to replace my stolen camera. Just wanted to give a shoutout for this stuff.
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Nov 20, 2009 21:44
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Haven't replaced my stolen camera between that post and yours.  I'll go pick one up today. Fix fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Nov 20, 2009 |
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Nov 20, 2009 22:06
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!amicable posted:I use those inks to base coat everything, pretty much. At least all of the Nurgle demons I have posted. Did you use the red for your Bloodthirsters? Can you get a bit more detailed on how you mix up your washes with them?
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Nov 20, 2009 23:12
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!amicable posted:I want to hear more about the pearlescent inks. Do you think they could be substituted for metalics? Eh, kinda. I used the Silver Pearl on these (not the white, this took lots of layers of regular Liquitex stuff):  Badab black over the stuff gave a really interesting oily brown effect in thin layers. I don't know that I would necessarily use it all over the place, and it doesn't do much with Sepia, but I liked it well enough for my Templar bits.
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Nov 21, 2009 01:40
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No, the chests are shining gold over tin bitz. The bases are hand-chiseled from travertine flooring because I'm a loving psycho.
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Nov 21, 2009 02:01
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Haven't tried it, couldn't tell you. The only thinned brushing I have done of the stuff was the White Pearl over a dull white to try to get a... well... pearl effect. It did not come out to my liking immediately, so I scrapped the idea and went onto something else. I really need to play around with those more. I think it's definitely got enough shimmer to it to do what you're talking about. I just don't know how well the red covers is all.
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Nov 21, 2009 21:10
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Some of us want to distract from our models, thank you very much. 
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Nov 24, 2009 00:20
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PaintVagrant posted:I should make a OP post with all my recipes You should make a OP post with all your recipes. Failing that, you should come to my house and paint my stuff.
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Nov 24, 2009 20:02
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PaintVagrant posted:for a trip to hawaii I would paint your entire house in NMM 
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Nov 24, 2009 21:27
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Hey PV: Here is an article on photographing minis using normal (non SLR) digital cameras that in my opinion is OP worthy.
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Nov 26, 2009 09:23
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Fuckin dusty-assed white primer. Armory or Krylon, I'm getting some really grainy poo poo out of these things. poo poo sucks.
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Nov 30, 2009 08:08
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MasterSlowPoke posted:White's always hard to get to cover, spraying's no different. Even if it's not solidly white you still have a good enough surface to paint on. Solid's not the problem. Gritty is the problem. It gives all the coats above it a sandpaper finish, which fucks up washes something certain. I'm not too pissed as it's just troops so far, but drat I really don't want to have to scrub these and start again. Angryboot posted:Ffffuuuuuuuck. Those are pretty.
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Nov 30, 2009 11:09
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Indolent Bastard posted:Hey Fix, I know you've answered this before but what size magnets did you use for the arms on these guys? 1/8" x 1/16" Fix fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Nov 30, 2009 |
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Nov 30, 2009 19:28
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Dr. Lenin posted:Are they thin enough that you can just glue them to the arm joints, or do you still need to set them into the mini a bit? Also, is it better to use two magnets or just use one magnet on the body and a layer of magnetic paint on the arm? Generally speaking you're going to want to sink them into the torso/shoulder. I used two magnets per joint, but a bit of metal on one side works just as well and even better sometimes for providing friction like the smooth magnets do not. There are magnets that are small enough to do what you're talking about, but I've found them to be too weak (1/16" x 1/32"). They'll hold the weapon, but the slightest jostle will knock it off again. Not to mention how hard they are just to get in the right place and get the poles all lined up working that small.
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Nov 30, 2009 21:05
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Fyrbrand posted:For swapping special weapons, just glue them to the arms and magnetize that. Way simpler. This. It's not too difficult to come up with spare marine gun arms if you're shameless about begging or can score a couple cheap lots on ebay or something. The only real difficulty is if you're using sweet-rear end shoulder pads or metal ones or whatever and are limited by those.
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Nov 30, 2009 23:02
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Indolent Bastard posted:Goddammit! I found your post earlier about which ebay store you use for magnets but now I can't find it and the 1st post on the Warhammer thread is the magnet supplier that rapes you on shipping. http://stores.ebay.com/paylessrwe So I just realized that I was bitching and bitching about my grainy primer jobs. My grainy sandable primer jobs. 
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Dec 1, 2009 08:30
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Yog-Sothoth posted:Apart from the metal and a drybrush on the cloaks, all these dudes were done 100% with washes over white primer Or you can go the extra mile and just use washes over bare metal:   
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Dec 8, 2009 02:50
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crime fighting hog posted:Yes. At least I'm sure it exists because I have a can of it somewhere around here. Primer never worked for me, came out clear and hosed things up no matter how much I shook. Confirmed on this. That poo poo is chalky.
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Dec 12, 2009 01:57
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Iron Squid posted:Attention Everyone Tell him that PV rules it like a tyrant and we're not goING TO TAKE IT ANYMORE
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Dec 13, 2009 09:16
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I just spray outside because it's always 77 degrees.  quote:So I will get my Fortress of Redemption and Imperial Stronpoint this week. Marvelous models (from the pictures I have seen), and I am really looking forward to assembling and painting them. Do those kits go together in any particularly interesting ways, or are you assembling the bastions separate from the fortress? I kinda regret putting my bastions together in such a vanilla way, since I don't really play Planetstrike and just use them as regular buildings on my board. Wish I had assembled them in a more interesting form.  gently caress. Edit: Hey PV, have you looked over the Infinity stuff at all? I'm wondering how much of the coolness you'd attribute to the models and how much you'd attribute to the paintjobs. I really want to buy some and either try the game or just field them as counts-as, but I dont know if I'll bother if I'd just wreck those models. Their promos are too, too gorgeous. Fix fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Dec 15, 2009 |
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Dec 15, 2009 19:55
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 00:56 |
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Iron Squid posted:WTF is Malifaux, anyways? Squad based skirmish combat game using cards instead of dice or something. They have some pretty interesting mechanics for army balancing. And kick rear end models, of course.
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Dec 15, 2009 20:03
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