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This thread won't fill up nearly as quickly and soon enough you'll see people's army histories the same way.
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Oct 4, 2009 19:30
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 18:36 |
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To do that cloak I'd basecoat with the lowest red you want, and do like 5 or 6 more layers on top, each one marginally more orange and leaving the lower color on the darker parts. glaze it with thinned baal red or whatever, and maybe do a highlight again with the orange
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Oct 5, 2009 06:22
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AgentF posted:This is a heavy weapons team that I completed recently. What do you think of the painting and colour scheme? All criticisms are welcome, especially if you have something to say about the basing. Your image doesn't work.
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Oct 6, 2009 05:06
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Have you tried gloss coating the crackle after before painting the top layer?
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Oct 10, 2009 18:40
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As someone said, fill in the cracks around the eyes and it'll look less corrupted.
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Oct 28, 2009 17:42
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oh my god my series 7 accidentally brushed up into some superglue
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Oct 29, 2009 06:33
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wait you don't wash out your drybrush
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Oct 29, 2009 14:53
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!amicable posted:I think you mean tempra. Unless you have been using your brushes for deep frying. He's a goon, alright!
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Oct 29, 2009 15:03
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photos would help
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Oct 29, 2009 18:54
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I can't tell if the lighting is painted on or is just the natural lighting in that room.
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Oct 30, 2009 23:42
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Nurgle purity seal?!
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Oct 31, 2009 01:42
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Just fill it up with paint-water pre-game.
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Nov 1, 2009 22:05
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That's not nearly deadly enough to be a Blood Bowl ball.
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Nov 5, 2009 02:11
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Is Krylon Flat White any good (or even exist); the Diplicolor I've been using is a tad too pricey for my wallet.
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Nov 6, 2009 05:53
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Magnetic paint should be strong enough to hold the models; I've heard of people using them for 40k models.
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Nov 18, 2009 20:49
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Bobx66 posted:The magnetic paint is only going to work for the surface, there isn't actually magnetic properties in the paint itself it is just metal filings in primer. If you get very thin rare earth magnets for the minis and a surface with the paint you'll be solid. The figured bases would get the magnetic paint, and the surface would be based on the rollable magnetic sheets.
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Nov 18, 2009 22:01
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I could literally hurl my case down a flight of stairs, and assuming the case itself doesn't break into pieces my buff dudes will be fine.
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Nov 22, 2009 23:05
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Any tips for getting snow bases to look right? I'm going for full snow coverage. Keep in mind I've lived in Florida all my life and have never seen snow.
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Nov 24, 2009 01:22
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The WarStore's sale starts tomorrow night.
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Nov 25, 2009 04:16
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Haha never noticed the Ork sticking his head out that hole on the WIP shots. Nice to finally see it done.
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Nov 30, 2009 05:20
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You've got 6 options there, there's an obvious way to decide.
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Nov 30, 2009 06:53
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Fix posted:Fuckin dusty-assed white primer. Armory or Krylon, I'm getting some really grainy poo poo out of these things. poo poo sucks. White's always hard to get to cover, spraying's no different. Even if it's not solidly white you still have a good enough surface to paint on.
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Nov 30, 2009 09:27
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http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=magnetic primer
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Dec 1, 2009 10:43
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 Not a great sculpt, but adding on some green stuffed hair goes a loooong way towards making it a lesbian knight. And it's in full armor, though the armor lacks realism.
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Dec 2, 2009 14:06
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The person didn't even request a lesbian knight.Aranan posted:Is there a place where I can get some precut pieces of MDF board? Like 1' x 1' squares or circles or something. Go to a hardware store and have them cut up a piece of 8'x10'x1/8" hardboard into 1x1 squares. It's like 10 bucks for the whole piece.
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Dec 2, 2009 17:39
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The answer is to rebottle squid pink and sell it at $6 a pot
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Dec 12, 2009 22:01
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quote:While the shades I use for painting flesh are dependent upon the figure for the reasons outlined above, most commonly I use a mix of Vallejo Warlock Purple from their Game Colour range, and Charadon Granite, again from Games Workshop's foundation range, along with a little Dheneb Stone mixed in. The figure in the picture below has had the above mix applied over a Dheneb Stone base.  how the hell does that work
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Dec 13, 2009 01:57
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Make sure you threaten his "mongrel daughter" like that other guy did.
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Dec 13, 2009 08:23
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Kestral posted:Hell, maybe you can even get steam, though I have no idea how you'd pull that off. http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/vol/vol1282.htm?source=froogle
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Dec 14, 2009 08:47
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That's Bloodbowl's "The Mighty Zug". It's fairly new.
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Dec 14, 2009 10:53
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NecronSchmecron posted:LewdMonocle posted:Then I did this guy: These dudes loving own.
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Dec 17, 2009 06:16
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I think the plastic used in Warhammer models is polystyrene.
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Dec 17, 2009 12:07
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If you live in the US, go to a Dollar Tree and pick up a toothbrush and some "LA's Totally Awesome", it's piss yellow and in the cleaning supplies section. Let the dudes soak in the stuff for a day or two, then take them out and scrub under running water. The paint and most of the primer should come off, a little bit left behind isn't a big deal.
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Dec 22, 2009 02:47
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Iron Squid posted:Would some of you guys (PV and Yog, I'm looking at you) post a tutorial on basic painting, say and Ork or Space Marine. My first model doesn't look very good, and I'd love to see the techniques you guys use to make models look so goddamn awesome. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yITRhnATlCw
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Dec 24, 2009 01:49
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crime fighting hog posted:How do I paint rope and gray hair Rope: Calthan base, Snakebite 1st highlight, Snakebite/Khaki 2nd highlight Grey Hair: Codex -> Fortress (maybe the other way around I forget which is darker) -> Fortress/White Mix
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Dec 24, 2009 07:03
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Captain Invictus posted:What does this stuff do to resin and would it be safe to, say, stick Armorcast parts in it. I'm going to be coming into possession of some Titans and I'll want to strip the paint from them, but if it's not safe to do with simple green or LA's then I don't know what the gently caress I didn't notice anything when I threw some green stuff scraps in mine but I'm really not sure.
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Dec 24, 2009 12:25
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Sole.Sushi posted:I have never personally used milliput products for any epoxy work, so I couldn't comment on them. How does it react to water? I have a box of Milliput yellow/grey. It's basically the same thing as green stuff, but takes a little longer to set, and is VERY crumbly the first 10 minutes or so. It's super cheap, though, so it's good for filling in spaces before putting green stuff details on top. I've also heard good things about using milliput/green stuff in a 1:1 ratio but I haven't tried that yet.
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Dec 26, 2009 21:44
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Vaseline is pretty popular.
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Dec 26, 2009 22:02
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The lighter grey is codex gray. The armor seems to be charadon granite with dheneb stone hightlights.
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Dec 27, 2009 02:44
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 18:36 |
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What country are you in?
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Dec 27, 2009 14:15
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