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Danger - Octopus! posted:How do these kind of bases work? Do you get a base with a sunken bit in the middle, a scenic bit and a miniature; are you supposed to provide the scenic bit yourself or is it moulded onto the miniatures feet? The stock bases are plastic with a recessed center. You can buy full resin bases, and some people make white metal inserts for the bases, or you can just model in there yourself with greenstuff and plasticard. It is in 99.5% of the case not part of the stock model (with the exception of a few warmachine/hordes epic characters, and in those cases it is much less subtle).
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Oct 4, 2009 00:29
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  Jen Haley posted:This was my third go at a monochrome miniature, a male ranger sculpted by Jeff Grace for Dark Sword and painted for a video tutorial. I like the dynamic pose of this model, and thought he would look interesting in the simple color scheme. RMS Walnut Brown and Creamy Ivory were the only two paints used.
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Oct 4, 2009 05:35
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Morham posted:Yes I had a search for one and saw the price tag, was confused and then realised why...it's a very nice miniature though and I WILL buy it at some point! All matte varnishes are going to really tone down the luster on metallic paint, regardless of brand.
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Oct 11, 2009 21:17
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PaintVagrant posted:Got a lot of painting done yesterday and the day before, I even squeeked in some work on *gasp* my personal stuff! I wish I had more stuff to toss your way  If I ever find that Nomad it's yours. edit: Angryboot those are some slick templars, and welcome to the no-motivation to paint club. Devlan Mud fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Oct 17, 2009 |
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Oct 17, 2009 02:30
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Siimple green also has a tough time taking the first coat of primer off of plastic I've noticed.
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Nov 29, 2009 20:46
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FirstCongoWar posted:Anybody know of a good place to buy dropper bottles? I'm sick of fishing paint out of GW pots. You can order them from warstore if you check their painting section.
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Dec 3, 2009 05:50
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File sets are a rip because you never really need more than a triangle and a round. Maybe a half round. But any more than that is a waste of money.
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Dec 12, 2009 03:23
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Morning posted:What exactly is the difference between matte medium and glazing medium. They look like they do the same thing, but that cant be right.. Matte is opaque, glaze is translucent.
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Dec 24, 2009 23:23
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I put my rinse water in a dish instead of a cup and have never had a problem not drinking it!
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Jan 5, 2010 01:27
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Vallejo also has a 'gunmetal blue' in their model color line, which may or may not be similar to what you are looking for.
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Jan 5, 2010 21:51
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I've gotten by just fine using zap-a-gap and a bit of a careful touch. But if you're having problems I'd certainly gob some putty down into the hollow.
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Jan 25, 2010 15:45
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berzerkmonkey posted:It is the injection process, most likely. I heard something the other day regarding it. The metal is forced into the mold under high pressure in an effort to get it into those pointy bits before the metal is able to cool. Some of the liquid metal is forced out beyond the cavity of the mold and results in the flash you're getting. It's more likely GW switched to a cheaper alloy that holds less detail or something, thus the need for more flash tabs.
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Jan 28, 2010 21:47
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Pretty sure Klear is Future Floor Wax, just the UK branding of it.
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Jan 29, 2010 00:28
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Aranan posted:I'm pretty sure that was a scheme featured in one of the issues of No Quarter. I'll dig through my magazines and see if I can find it. Yeah that's one of Todd Arrington's Cryx, which are featured in Escalation, not No Quarter. Also the best Cryx.
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Jan 31, 2010 10:28
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I think Brushthralls has more pictures of them, as he's a contributor to it, but yeah pretty sure there's no guides to doing it.
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Jan 31, 2010 17:19
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 Pretty much what PV said, although I don't dip mine in, I use a pair of tweezers to grab a clump and stick it on the glue directly.
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Feb 9, 2010 17:07
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Painted my truck on Tuesday and Wednesday at the store. Click here for the full 1000x750 image.
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Feb 11, 2010 16:20
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Asciana posted:If i'm going to be magnetizing my marines, what size of magnets do I need for them? Also, any idea where I might get some of these in UK? I use 3mm diameter by 1mm deep disc magnets for marine arms. Also be sure to buy a 3mm drill bit.
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Feb 11, 2010 21:05
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Asciana posted:
Howling Griffons own, you own. Stick to it.
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Feb 18, 2010 00:34
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jubelio posted:I'm looking at the special units I have in preparation for the march oath, thinking about doing my spirit host but after looking around at some ghost ideas I'm not sold on what to do or more specifically what is a relatively easy way to paint them to give them a nice ethereal look. Any Ideas? Paint green-blue, drybrush up lighter. done.
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Feb 20, 2010 02:37
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Fyrbrand posted:drat I just bought a bunch of P3 blues, but none of those shades. I'll grab those next time I'm near the lgs. Thanks man. Wish my store carried P3 :/
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Feb 21, 2010 06:11
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Feeple posted:Sorry. St. Louis has a pretty active Warmachine and Hordes community, so PP stuff is commonplace here. I'm actually getting into GW stuff for the first time seriously right now. My store is liquidating PP right now. Shame, really, as I love how they work with their stuff.
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Feb 21, 2010 06:29
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PierreTheMime posted:I finally found a store around town that sells modeling stuff. Time to start making copious amounts of terrain. Nonsense just find a GW store and buy jungle plants, manufactorums and citadel woods 
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Feb 25, 2010 01:22
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storm lords 
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Mar 3, 2010 04:42
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PaintVagrant posted:White panthers, because in space white people are an oppressed minority and need heroes lynch them salamanders
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Mar 3, 2010 05:10
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Cakefool posted:I have decided to take a break from failing to paint my oath, and started converting a Defiler into a tiny titan. I feel this is a smart decision. Knowing your builds, I can't disagree.
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Mar 14, 2010 17:45
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PaintVagrant posted:white primer owns qtiyd colored primer 
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Mar 16, 2010 03:12
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CyberLord XP posted:oh man can some please post some tips/links to making/painting a good looking banner out of greenstuff. It's my first time trying to do a decent one and I really want it to turn out. Take a soda can instead, and cut out a banner sized piece of aluminum.
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Mar 19, 2010 01:59
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  Click here for the full 1000x750 image. Dip went on too thick, I'll need to be less lazy and brush it on.
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Mar 19, 2010 14:55
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What size Rare Earth Magnets do people shove in the 25mm round bases of small guys? I need something to balance out hormagaunts so why not.
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Mar 21, 2010 02:34
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 Click here for the full 1000x750 image. Finished my first batch of nids. Guess I gotta build termagants tomorrow.
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Mar 25, 2010 00:30
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!amicable posted:Those bases are really fuckin nice. They contrast the paint job really well. I would suggest maybe touching up some of the carapace or something-the wash is a bit blotchy. Yeah, it's the wood varnish, it's pretty hit or miss. The gaunts I put on way too much, the tyrant has a lot of flat bone areas that don't cover well. I'm probably gonna go back and put some highlights on the tyrant at some point, but for now I'm happy with just cranking out tabletop quality models that will actually get playing time.
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Mar 25, 2010 02:32
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PaintVagrant posted:This is critical to the devlan mud warhammer 40k ACTUALLY PLAYING experience. sadly this would probably be a pretty good motivator for me
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Mar 25, 2010 02:49
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Army Painter black/white primers are great, but not much cheaper than GW. Their colors are great in theory but are really hard to get paint on well afterwards (even if you dullcote afterwards).
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Mar 26, 2010 10:13
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Oh hey finished 22 stands of tiny mans this weekend so now I can stop putting off selling them   Click here for the full 1000x750 image.
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Apr 4, 2010 15:33
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MasterSlowPoke posted:They own but at least they don't look too hard to paint for when you can afford to actually own some on the long term. It's quite literally basecoats then devlan mud haha. I've got basically the same stuff as that but in paratroopers for when I want to actually play flames of war, since the paratroopers are about twice as many points as GIs, you only need about half the amount of expensive support. I'm just really kinda burned out on 15mm americans right now, and don't really want to drop the 150 some bucks I'd need to flesh the paratroopers up to 1750 for tourney play. That and I have tyranids to finish, as there's actually more than one person here I'd play 40k with had I a finished force. Seriously though 15mm models are really easy to paint, and if you have the stomach for batch painting like a mofo you could pretty easily do an entire army's worth of infantry in a day or two. I think if I really put the effort in, and had all the models, I could do everything I need for a full army of paratroopers in 2 weeks, tops. It's just more money than I want to spend right now, and more willpower than I have currently to muscle through it.
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Apr 4, 2010 20:58
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It may be the flash washing it out, but the armour looks really flat, granted it's dark blue, but it's hard to tell it has been highlighted in places, which is pretty important on pieces like marine armour. The gold looks really bright at least, but I think could benefit from some shading in the crevices, and some mithril highlights. On the up side the cloak so far looks excellent.
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Apr 5, 2010 00:09
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The pictures don't show the gold well on the staff because of the angle, so maybe it's better than I can see, and the flash is washing it out some, so I'll take your word on it!
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Apr 5, 2010 00:34
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SixtySix posted:So, both? How does one use these products? Read the sides of the bottles! Also be sure to gloss the shoulderpads first.
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Apr 18, 2010 19:55
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I have no earthly idea how you'd chip paint in a pluck foam or battlefoam tray, to be perfectly honest. I've never had a problem transporting stuff in weird pluck foam recesses so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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Apr 20, 2010 15:29
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