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God drat I remember I made this thread 2 years ago back when TG was just a shitfest of Play by Posts. Never made it to page 2. I'll be posting my stuff as I get my camera going again.
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# ¿ Oct 4, 2009 16:46 |
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# ¿ May 22, 2024 01:41 |
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PV you gonna tell me how you did the grey for those plague marines/death guard?
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# ¿ Oct 4, 2009 18:09 |
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PaintVagrant posted:nope pv you a dick
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# ¿ Oct 4, 2009 19:53 |
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bhsman posted:Getting the rest of the bits from a Goon; I'll post the whole thing here when it's ready. Kinda unrelated but I started working on the elves I got from you way back when. Most of them stripped pretty well and I'll be priming/painting hopefully in the next few weeks at this rate.
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# ¿ Oct 8, 2009 17:55 |
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bhsman posted:Awesome! Though I suppose it's too late for you to post pictures so I can compare the horrible-ness of my painting a year ago to how bad I am now? Definitely, that poo poo went into simple green the day I got it. But it wasn't THAT bad.
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# ¿ Oct 9, 2009 01:27 |
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Jesus that works amazingly well and makes them look a foot bigger.
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# ¿ Oct 9, 2009 13:27 |
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PV how'd you do the red skin on the oblits
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# ¿ Oct 12, 2009 16:42 |
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Zarkov Cortez posted:GOD drat stuff like this is why I like this hobby so much
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# ¿ Oct 15, 2009 18:58 |
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last night I was at my game store and this complete jobber was bragging about how he paints his daemons and how he's gonna stomp the competition once their all assembled. I asked him how he paints them and he said "It's a secret that I figured out, I'm not sure I want to tell" I thought he was loving with me so I pressed him and he told me his big secret was he waters down paint a poo poo load and spreads it over the model for a slow change of color. "You mean glazes?" "NO! It's different!" "You mean washes?" "NO! It's better!
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# ¿ Oct 16, 2009 00:43 |
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!amicable posted:He might just be talking about using a lot of thin layers of paint to build up a gradient. But given the way you describe him, he is probably just stupid. He is. Got fired from that gaming store for being a fat lazy sack of poo poo. How do you gently caress up a job where you talk about Warhams and MTG all day? And his stuff looks like rear end. Man I gotta start painting again. I need to finish my friend's tau by christmas so I can work on my stuff again.
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# ¿ Oct 16, 2009 12:55 |
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Angryboot posted:Having never painted minis before I think I'm finally beginning to figure out this shading/highlighting/blending business: Jesus christ your templars look a lot better than mine. I still can't paint the crosses on right and I've done over 40 of them now. I still can't highlight black worth poo poo. I need to actually sit down and practice it rather than just sploshing it on and wondering why my army looks like rear end.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2009 04:15 |
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Guess I'll just leave this here http://forums.eternityofwar.com/showpost.php?p=134783&postcount=46 Newer stuff coming soonish maybe
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# ¿ Oct 22, 2009 19:33 |
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:You could get a proper spray booth, they're awesome for containing and removing the spray, but they're also expensive. Isn't there a guide somewhere on how to make an okay one for 15 bucks?
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# ¿ Oct 22, 2009 20:25 |
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ergot posted:http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap_spray_booth/ Bookmarked. Thanks duder
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# ¿ Oct 22, 2009 20:32 |
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http://forums.eternityofwar.com/showpost.php?p=134808&postcount=53
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# ¿ Oct 23, 2009 01:31 |
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Captain Scurvy posted:Ok here we go with my first finished guy in a bit, If you dullcote him he'll look so much better
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# ¿ Oct 23, 2009 21:51 |
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bobvonunheil posted:Any reason I shouldn't be painting straight from the pot? I tend to do this a lot, and want to work on my painting habits. Without adding a little bit of water, the paint is very thick. It will show brush strokes or get clumping or you'll gently caress up and get poo poo tons of paint into a crack or face and completely fill it in. But thinning your paint too much makes it runny and sag. So have fun practicing (it's not hard to learn though)
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# ¿ Oct 24, 2009 16:49 |
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Angryboot posted:
Jesus. Which gray do you use to highlight?
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2009 03:28 |
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Okay, so you can use Future Floor to make your own washes, but what can I make for my own gloss and dullcote through an airbush? Anyone know?
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# ¿ Oct 29, 2009 00:10 |
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Kestral posted:Does Simple Green remove products like DullCote, glosses, varnishes, MinWax and the like? If not, can anyone recommend something to safely strip those coverings from minis? Yeah it works on that stuff too.
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# ¿ Nov 1, 2009 20:27 |
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Who's got a good guide to water effects?
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# ¿ Nov 1, 2009 22:07 |
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moths posted:Did you use a salt mask for the chipping on the ramp? It looks super good. Looks like he just stippled.
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2009 02:45 |
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!amicable posted:E; nevermind I'm too retarded to read. They look great though.
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# ¿ Nov 16, 2009 05:16 |
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Drop Pod primed and the insides of the doors I just primed white. Gonna caution strip em and hope that the yellow air brush paint I got doesn't suck because it says 'transparent' and they don't carry opaque. What the hell? I'll give it a shot and pray it works.
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# ¿ Nov 23, 2009 04:34 |
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well they look like complete rear end Click here for the full 1024x422 image. I hosed up with the tape I guess, that or I sprayed too close or too far away, I dunno. Should I start over, fix it by hand or tape off again and try it again?
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2009 04:19 |
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Fyrbrand posted:When you were talking about the caution stripes, I thought you meant something like this, which is how I've always seen it done in the past: The area on here that is caution striped I plan on doing boltgun/wash black for simplicity. I'll try to touch it up by hand and then ding the poo poo outta it with chainmail and hope that helps.
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2009 04:30 |
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PaintVagrant posted:I dont think they look bad at all, I think some weathering could sort of mask the soft spray edges you've uncovered my plan pv
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2009 04:48 |
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Fyrbrand posted:Have fun gluing the fins to the center turbine thing when they have just one tiny rear end contact point, while getting it lined up just right so that the doors close properly, oops it just came unglued at the bottom ughhhh gently caress drop pods I hear if you do it one at a time it's not so bad. I'm a patient warham
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2009 04:48 |
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Angryboot posted:This bastard took me entirely way too long: Looks amazing. The first one is the hardest but after you've figured it out the others take less time
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2009 16:25 |
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Just double checking, I'm about to airbrush on some boltgun, does thinning it 1:1 ratio enough or should I use more water?
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2009 18:41 |
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Probably too late now, but I'd start a bit thick and spray onto some paper or something to test it, then add water as needed. But yeah, 1:1 seems like a good starting ratio for GW. It worked perfectly. Pics incoming. Now to wash it black then pick out the details. crime fighting hog fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Nov 24, 2009 |
# ¿ Nov 24, 2009 22:24 |
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Angryboot posted:Stop making me want to buy more poo poo, drat it! A looooooooong time. I was able to do all that in about 5 minutes. GW paint takes seconds to dry when airbrushed
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2009 00:36 |
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Bobx66 posted:Son of a bitch that came out well! I had always hear that it is difficult to airbrush metalics, was it constantly clogging up on you? Did you just use water to thin it? 1:1 ratio? 1:1 ratio, worked perfectly, no clogs or anything! I just use water right now.
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2009 07:04 |
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Vindicator posted:It's probably been mentioned previously, dude, but I'm lazy. Can you fill me in on what airbrushing equipment you use? Brand names and stuff? That looks like really good work. No Problem, I'll post it later when I get back from stuff
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2009 21:49 |
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Compressor: Paasche D 500: cost about 120 I think Airbrush: Badger model 150 double action internal mix: Cost 150 but came with a bunch of bottles, needles and different tip sizes. Plus I got 10% it all so saved even more money that way. I was worried that I'd have to get the same brand of compressor and brush but the guy at the store said Badger works with pretty much everything and he said spend more money on your airbrush than your compressor. It's helped me out so much so far. The drop pod I just sprayed looks pretty decent but I'm gonna start doing some details by hand before I take more pictures. If you have the cash and the amount of models to justify doing it (poo poo tons of vehicles) then I say go for it I just wish I did Blood Angels or something because I could basecoat my entire army in an hour!
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2009 22:08 |
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Aranan posted:gold: mithril, sepia, sepia? Sepia really is the best wash for metal qtiyd
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2009 18:09 |
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http://forums.eternityofwar.com/showpost.php?p=136576&postcount=68
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2009 06:26 |
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The equipment I posted wasn't too pricey and could be used for detail but I lack the talent. I sprung about 250 on it all
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# ¿ Nov 30, 2009 03:45 |
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Fyrbrand posted:Try this dude. He primes grey, while most people around here use black, but he does a good job showing every single step. He even does decals in this one, which owns. This guy is really good, I copied my wash recipe from him. He rules.
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# ¿ Dec 1, 2009 01:47 |
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# ¿ May 22, 2024 01:41 |
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Gonna start coating my stuff. Future works through an airbrush straight from the bottle right? Or I could thin it with some iso alcohol to matte it right?
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# ¿ Dec 2, 2009 23:25 |