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Bread Zeppelin posted:What high-clearance 4WD vehicle has the best gas mileage? I'd like to get something to get me down dirt, mud, and rocky roads. If I could put a lift kit and offroad tires on a Honda Civic I would, but if that's not possible what is the next best option? Are you looking at new or used or both?
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Nov 26, 2012 00:26
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PUSSY MASTER 007 posted:When I went to test drive it, the dealer had to jump the battery which I suppose is a huge red flag. He said it was the start-up battery being dead from the car being on the lot too long, and not a problem with the actual hybrid battery. I don't know too much about hybrids having never driven one, but I also know better than to trust a used car dealer. Anyone have any insight? Even if I go this route I'm a little wary about purchasing that particular car, and will see if I can find one at another lot. Bigger batteries have more charge to peter away, so it does take longer for them to go dead. But it is really bad for them to go dead. On my '07 Camry Hybrid, I was told you could safely let the car sit for 6 months from a full charge before you needed to fire it up and charge up the battery. The Accord Hybrid's charge is a bit smaller, but on the same order. It's very possible that the normal battery died with no injury to the hybrid battery, depending on its condition and how long the car's sat, but your concern is definitely well placed.
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Nov 29, 2012 06:41
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mik posted:Speaking of... the Focus ST, while new, is pretty well reviewed so far, right? I've read articles and watched some youtube videos but I don't really know who to actually trust in terms of these things. I've been looking at non-RWD peppy hatchbacks/sedans and the A3 seems like too much compromise for the price, the Mazdaspeed 3 too harsh, I'm not a fan of the Subaru's or the GTI's looks (can I say that around here?), which kind of leaves the ST. Edmund's just got an ST in their long term review, which IMO is the best daily use evaluation of a car. http://www.insideline.com/ford/focus-st/ Go to the Blogs tab.
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Dec 2, 2012 01:38
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Is there a best (for the loanee) way to go from one car with a payment to another car that will need a payment? I'm 6k away from the end of the loan on my current car, and I'm considering it as trade-in. If I'm aggressive, I can pay it off in 3 or 4 months. But if there's financial advantages to trading it in with money left on the loan, I would consider that. destructo mentioned seriously good rates through PenFed, and that got me thinking about whether it'd be possible to soften the blow of the trade.
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Dec 25, 2012 10:04
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I don't think any 30k new car will be aggressive enough for you. There'll be too many compromises.
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Dec 26, 2012 03:48
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nm posted:The problem with corvettes and the like is that when you track them, the consumables on a heavier car (3300lbs is heavy for a track car) get expensive. I track a heavy car myself. A Z06 is probably midpack in terms of cars that show up on the average track day. It's 3150lbs or so. But yes, the rotors are prone to cracking if you brake hard frequently, and tires are no joke. That said, the Z06 doesn't feel like a race car. Its seat is ridiculously bad. It has no steering feedback. It's fast and handles well, but I would call it a muscle car, not a race car. A race car is one that is sorta painful to drive (your knees banging into bare metal on every turn) and live with but has extremely direct and meaningful operation in all of its controls. I don't think lap time is a factor. goodfuldead posted:So is the elise not well built? I mean I'd like to put about 6-7k a year on a car I can drive balls to the wall constantly. I live in ky. Based on what you've said, you would probably do ok with an RX8 or S2000. Still a ton more refined than an Elise, but raw enough. I wonder if an RX8 or Elise is cheaper for each year of ownership.
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Dec 27, 2012 05:51
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Ideal Paradigm posted:I've never dealt with Fords before. You're saying that I should avoid Zetec, Duratec, and PZEV? Those seem to be the only models that I can find on Craigslist, or it's not listed. No, those are the ones you want that are not the base engine, which is the SPI, or Split Port. This clunker: http://www.focushacks.com/images/engines/EngineSPI.jpg
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Dec 28, 2012 10:54
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Drunken Lullabies posted:It's the car I learned on, but I agree I really don't know much, I just don't want a 240 or something you see every day. Something a little different. I like unique cars even if they aren't as ideal or cheap to work on. I guess learning on a z3 probably messed up my ability to drift a car that's more meant for the task. What kind of schedule would you be looking at for your "drift car?" And more power to you if you can hold a drift in something like the Z3. If you can afford 2 cars, one of which is just a toy, by all means go for it. At that point, there's no reason why you can't buy one car first and the other one when the right one comes along. If you're splitting your 5-7k budget, though, that's 2 cars that will need attention and work.
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Dec 29, 2012 12:09
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Krittick posted:Good to know about the Prius/Honda hybrid differences, and the CPO stuff, thanks. The travel type I mentioned is an average estimate, but I do have several multi-state road trips planned over the next few years, as well as inter-state visits a bit. Should have mentioned that in the first post, sorry. I'll check out the Mazda, and the non-hybrid Civic in addition to the Prius. The savings on a non-hybrid will still be worth one extra fill up for every road trip you plan. Hybrids might be able to get 5 more miles to the gallon on the highway more than fuel-saving compacts. Highway driving is their weakness. Earth posted:What?!?! No dude, no. As an accomplished engineer... ;-) Seriously though jokes aside, I am an accomplished engineer, and I have had a lot of experience for my age. It is unquestionably meaningful what facility a car comes from because different facilities have different cultures and personalities. I've been in good shops and bad shops that make the exact same thing and there are measurable differences. Knowing what I know about how things are built and designed, it's important to me. quote:Also, the reason that I have Volkswagens as reliable is because of the diesel engine. Diesels properly cared for will last longer than gas ones as far as I (and my engine engineering friends) understand, and according to Consumer Reports Volkswagen does have good years and bad years. A diesel engine is but one component in reliability. It won't factor into your entire dash not working when you turn the car on, and it won't help with the soft control arms and bushings in the suspension. You can of course set your own metrics for reliability. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 07:32 on Dec 31, 2012 |
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Dec 30, 2012 18:20
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Phone posted:Oh, 2014 Corvette. If he's looking to commute in Boston in a Vette, he'll need to budget a couple thousand dollars for snow tires.
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Mar 3, 2013 17:23
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When dealers call you to offer to sell your car on consignment, what's the deal? I got posed a pretty good price -- how do the contracts actually work out? I'm being cynical and assuming the price they mentioned wouldn't be what I get. Where's the hidden catch?
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Mar 13, 2013 19:06
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photomikey posted:Generally speaking, anytime somebody is calling *you*, it is a good deal for them, and a bad deal for you. I searched for his name and found it out -- he just doesn't intend on honoring the contract at all. Clever.
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Mar 14, 2013 06:16
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b0nes posted:I am gonna be commuting to school about 3 days a week, about 100 miles a trip. Is it feasible that the car will last till I get done with school? What program/duration is the school? Have you been maintaining the car on the prescribed schedule, extrapolating the maintenance intervals as needed?
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Mar 16, 2013 04:35
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b0nes posted:Yes. How many years is your school? At 4 years, maybe. At 7 years, maybe not.
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Mar 17, 2013 01:05
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sim posted:For reference, I've owned a Nissan 300ZX TT and VW GTI. In all honesty, a newer GTI fits the bill, but I just don't want to own the same model twice. So instead I've been looking at the following: I don't see getting an E63 that fits in your budget being a justifiable financial decision. Is your kid big enough that s/he'll soon graduate from a seat? If not, the smaller door on the Fiesta might get old real fast. Dynamically and stock powerwise, the Focus ST is supposed to be heads and shoulders above the GTI. Even if it's FWD, it's supposed to be more fun to drive. Did that not pan out in a test drive?
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Mar 22, 2013 05:15
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HiddenReplaced posted:How will you be using the car?: Commuting to work, not especially long. Regular driving. Any preference on transmission? Ingenium posted:Proposed Budget: <$30,000 Do 4 snowboards fit into a midsize sedan's trunk? It's times like these when I wish I paid attention to stuff beyond performance. New Mazda 6. The base motor can do 38mpg on the highway. Should be fun to drive compared to its competitors. The AI boilerplate about snow is to get snow tires and swap them as the seasons demand. If you can't suffer snow tires, then Subaru Impreza or Crosstrek.
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Mar 23, 2013 08:52
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Ciaphas posted:Fair enough. I know precisely dick all about cars, so I was rather hoping some makes or models might be better known for being more comfortable for bigger guys (okay, fatasses) like me. Edmunds published this list: http://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/top-10/top-10-best-cars-for-tall-drivers-for-2013.html
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Mar 28, 2013 23:34
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Maggie Fletcher posted:Thanks. My bf (her brother) drove her Prius and even he said it steers heavy. He's the kind of guy who'd be right at home here on AI, so I take his word as pretty reliable. Has the car been in any accidents? At what speeds is the steering heavy? Low/stopped? If it's been in an accident, it's possible the front suspension has been tweaked to make steering effort higher than normal. Otherwise, I do think it would be easy to turn. If I stuck my wrist through a loop in the steering wheel, I'd have no problems turning the car at any speed. Of course that is not a technique I'm recommending; it's just an indication of effort. Check what tires are in it. Not strictly recommended, but going to low rolling resistance tires might lower the effort a tiny bit. But if the Prius is on stock tires, it should already be there. I had a Camry Hybrid with the same electric power steering as the Prius and it was easily one of the lightest steering effort cars I've driven. Any of the lowest tier econoboxes are also candidates for lightest steering.
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Mar 31, 2013 07:58
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I'd at least try to drive another Prius of the same generation back to back to see if it's the same. Maybe a small repair could change it. Or at least one that's more economical than switching cars. The Yaris rental I drove once had extremely light steering. I'm pretty sure that's what Toyota wants for its buyers. I betcha it's lighter than a Fit's. The wheel will hopefully be thin, too.
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Mar 31, 2013 08:17
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kimbo305 posted:The AI boilerplate about snow is to get snow tires and swap them as the seasons demand.
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Apr 6, 2013 23:35
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Not an Anthem posted:I am in the market for a car. I can spend like 10-12k. I don't necessarily want to, and in fact, would prefer to spend around 3-5k. If you have that 2-6k figure typed correctly, that's nothing for a classic car. Keeping a nice one in nice shape will cost you. Not maintaining it will have it rusting away and breaking fast.
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Apr 9, 2013 00:09
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atomicthumbs posted:I hadn't really considered (eighties) American cars/V8s. How are they on gas mileage? A 4th gen is this kind:  3rd gens are from the 80s.
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Apr 20, 2013 03:50
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atomicthumbs posted:Yeah I looked up F-body on Wikipedia and clicked "Firebird" before I wrote that post Well there's 4th gen Firebirds, too, so your dream is still there:  Though that one might be a shade more than $4k.
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Apr 20, 2013 04:08
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The C6 has a better ride and better handling, though I don't think the non-Z06 looks as good as the C5Z. On the outside -- the interior of the C5 will definitely be a sidegrade. The C5Z shifter is so wretched in shape and feel. You might as well drive both, though.
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Apr 20, 2013 07:45
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MayakovskyMarmite posted:the convenience factor Leperflesh posted:$10k used car that sits outside through Chicago winters, added on to the costs of taxes, maintenance, and insurance If you own a car that you use once every other week, and you are not an enthusiast, two things will happen: - you take care of it adequately and you find maintaining it a chore - you don't take care of it and it goes to poo poo long before 5 years is up I totally get it -- to me, owning a car is integral to the American dream. But unless you find yourself thinking about cars and your car at least a few times a day, I don't think any car can meet the stress free mark.
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Apr 24, 2013 04:51
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RisqueBarber posted:Do these come in manual? I'm looking for a stick-shift. They don't. Might wanna amend your post to reflect that.
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May 3, 2013 00:43
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:If I were throwing down 400mi a weekend, I'd probably want something a little more forgiving than a MINI. You mean like a Wrangler?
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May 3, 2013 13:59
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One guy at a BMW autocross showed up in an Avenger rental cuz his BMW broke. He took pains, when asked, to explain that it was a rental. And more reliable, apparently 
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May 15, 2013 04:07
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Weinertron posted:I think that if you drive a ton in city it might be only slightly more expensive than just getting a subcompact hatchback. I think you need to be clearer on what you want. In some ways, the Leaf might be better (more comfortable? gadgets?) than a Yaris. But what threshold of betterness does it need to reach before the cost difference is worth it to you? What is the specific hatchback that you're comparing against?
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May 22, 2013 18:16
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Should i buy an 80's Mercedes Benz or 90's GM B or D body?
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Jun 2, 2013 01:23
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purpleandgold posted:You live downtown in a major city? Look into Mini Coopers! They're tons of fun to drive, super fuel efficient, and can be parked almost anywhere. If your city has a dealership, check one out. They're definitely in your price range. It's gonna be down a bit on the hauling factor. I bet you could massage a bike with wheel off into the hatches of the others, but I wonder about the Mini.
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Jun 6, 2013 03:28
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:What in the gently caress is purgeot? It's how Kath and Kim pronounce Peugeot.
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Jun 7, 2013 00:28
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ANIME AKBAR posted:So after looking at my prospects on used cars, it seems like pretty much all of them have been used in rough (wet, cold) climates, as in New York in NE Ohio. So I'm somewhat worried about rust making the things unserviceable. Where should I look for rust, and how do I know when it's too much? I heard the trunk is a good place, as well as the frame around the fenders... Serious underbody rust will add time and possibly labor hours depending on the shop to your service. Look at some major bolts down there and estimate how rusted over and seized up they might be. If you see rust in the trunk, you should probably pass. In my experience, dealers are really loathe to let you get a PPI. My success rate is maybe 2/10, with both allowing dealers needing a deposit first. That shouldn't sway your resolve to get it inspected, though. A car with a lien paid off is fine. If it still has a lien, it will make negotiations different, if the seller owes a lot.
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Jun 7, 2013 15:59
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Doesn't the Juke compare better to a Mini Countryman in size?
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Jun 18, 2013 08:27
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CatchrNdRy posted:What sort of damage history is considered "acceptable" when considering a used car? Obviously nothing with the engine, but what are other STAY AWAY signs? And what are common damages that are not significant, but may be used to price lower? Another way to look at it: the more common the car you're looking at, the easier it should feel to walk away from a deal. One pretty imperfect measure of accident history is Carfax. But I'd take any Carfax with no accident history over one for a similar condition car with reported accidents.
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Jun 25, 2013 01:48
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A ding as in a dent on the door that you see with your own eyes? Or accident damage reported on Carfax? If the former, yes, the rental will be far worse. If it's a rental you're looking at, chances are it's a common model. Don't even bother looking at former rental cars in that case.
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Jun 25, 2013 07:02
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CatchrNdRy posted:They keep saying crap like "well a rental has to go through a rigorous maintenance schedule" but I figure who knows what goes on that isn't on their checklists of repair. Have you ever rented a car? You should know what wins out, careful maintenance, or the sheer attrition of using a car that's not yours. Who is telling you this, a used car lot?
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Jun 25, 2013 07:09
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Compare the CR review of the Dart to this: http://www.edmunds.com/dodge/dart/2013/long-term-road-test/ They have pointed to some quality/teething issues, like the handles and the cracked front windshield.
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Jul 12, 2013 06:36
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katka posted:I wish I would of found this thread first its probably a better place for this. That's not a great price unless the car is pristine. Good daily driver depends on what your daily commute looks like. S2000s are mostly very reliable with some known issues with soft top wear.
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Aug 4, 2013 03:48
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I Am Not Spor posted:Content: Any huge reasons I shouldn't buy a Porsche 944/928? 928 - it's expensive if something goes wrong, which happens what you expect for 20+ year old luxury grand tourer.
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Aug 7, 2013 07:19
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