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CornHolio posted:I'm kind of curious, with the sudden onset of winter here, what other people's opinions about winter tires are. They're much safer on snow and ice than summer or all-season tires. However, it is expensive to have to buy (and store) two sets of tires. This can depend on your area. I am in Indiana where we can have 5 ft of snow 1 week then high 50's that next. So good all seasons + the AWD on my Impreza is more then enough. If you are farther north or when winter hits in your area hits it stay the snow tires can be worth it. Some one will pop in with the name/number for them but there is a all season tire that gets repeated over and over and over in AI when this topic pops up(I have them and love the hell out of them). edit: VVVV thank you, the bridgestones are what I have on my car and I love the hell out of them. VVVV Backno fucked around with this message at 09:11 on Oct 20, 2009 |
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Oct 16, 2009 03:59
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Harry posted:This is bullshit. I was looking around for a car recently and the only ones even close to this price range were cars from the late 80's. These aren't super reliable cars and there's a decent chance you're a turn away from a $2000 repair bill. his idea is a good idea in general though. Yes in your area a mid 90's beater costs 3-4k, so your first beater is 3-4k. Save $300 per month for a year add that to the 4k from selling your 4k beater (cause in a year it isn't going to drop much if any in value)and drive a paid for $7k car. Save for 2 or 3 and repeat. Yes stuff like wrecks or major engine failure can stop or slow this down, but the goal is YOU DO NOT HAVE A CAR PAYMENT. Neophyte posted:So what do people think the "sweet spot" for a broke-rear end who needs inexpensive transport is? $3000? $5000? This can depend on your area alot. Around here (Indiana) $6000-$7000 will get you an early to mid 200x car like a taurus or a focus or a civic with on avg 75,000 miles. The big things you can do to get the price lower is try not to deal with a dealership and bring cash. If you are standing in front of a random person saying I will hand you (asking price - ~$500) right now for your car, most of the time they will jump on it. The big thing is taking your time to find a solid car. Ask questions like how often was the oil changed, has the timing belt been changed, etc. Look at things like the color of the oil(if the owner say changed last week and its dark black he is full of poo poo or ask for receipts showing they did it regularly), how clean the air filter is (easy in most cars to get to and if it looks like its never been changed you know the owner didn't do easy stuff, then he sure as gently caress didn't do hard stuff), what condition are the tires in (big difference in wear lvl or all tires are way low on pressure), what color the coolant is (is it clean or full of crap). These are all things that are pretty easy to take care of and can quickly give you an idea of if the car has been taken care of. Are they going to tell if the transmission will blow up in 10k miles, no, but its a starting spot. Some people like getting it checked by a mechanic but this can be harder to do depending on how many hoops the owner is willing to jump through/how much demand the car has. Also if you are car shopping don't be afraid to travel to go get a car. In some areas going just 100 miles can drop car prices a ton. If you go to AI and ask nicely odds are some one lives near the car you are looking at and would be willing to go check it out for you for a beer or gas money. Backno fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Oct 21, 2009 |
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Oct 21, 2009 07:27
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Harry posted:Car payments aren't the end of the world. If you guys think you can find a decent car for $4-5k then go for it, but from what I saw you're opening yourself up to a broken heap of a car which you won't get anything back from. No they are not...but for alot of people they only think "this car is only $250 per month, I can afford that!" When in reality they should be driving a much cheaper car. I actually have a car payment atm because my old car (93 plymoth sundance) had a cracked block and was going to die at any moment and I didn't have enough saved up to replace it. I had my dad co-sign and I have gotten to the point where I could pay the car off at any time, but I dont want to because I want teh regular payments to help my credit. One of the reasons I am big on the no car payment thing to alot of people is that alot of the people who are asking are in bad shape money wise. They need quick, harsh advise that is easy to follow to get them started. Once they have done that for a bit and have a better handle on things they can move to more advanced advice. Telling a person "well a car payment is ok if you make X and have Y debt and if cars in your area cost Z and, and, and..." is harder to follow then "sell the car, buy a beater with cash, save the car payment for another car/car repairs".
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Oct 21, 2009 22:33
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Harry posted:Sorry but unless they 100% can't afford the car payment (as in they make x a month and with the car they have to pay x+y a month) I don't see how selling the car at a loss will help them. If I had to resort to buying a beater that was unreliable I'd probably be fired quickly. I never said sell a car at a loss. In GENERAL its better to drive a fully paid off car then have a car payment. In GENERAL the people posting here are in bad shape and need every penny of their paychecks to get out of debt. I am speaking in generals because this is a general advice thread.
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Oct 22, 2009 21:19
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Josh Wow posted:
Not only do you play in a bad I really enjoy, but you drive stick and are looking at a Subaru  I kid, I kid Sucks to hear about your car but you are going about this the right way at least, just try to take your time to find a car that isnt a total pos.
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Nov 25, 2009 02:17
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Josh Wow posted:Well my car is back on the road. Turns out what was wrong with it is that I got a cv axle replaced about a month ago, and for some reason it held out until this past Saturday when the clip that's supposed to hold it in failed. When my dad came down to check it out he saw what was wrong so we towed it to the shop where the work was originally done and they fixed it for free. Pretty sweet. I'm still looking to buy another car since I don't want to sink $500+ into my current car for the water pump and timing belt to be replaced, but at least now I have more time to save up some money. Good to hear dude For the most part manuals are more reliable because they have few parts that are moving. They also tend to be cheaper to fix because the parts to fix them cost less and there is alot less labor needed to replace it. Another thing is the number of people who drive stick is dropping in the US. This hurts the re-sale value on alot of your beater type cars cause who wants to learn to drive stick. I know when I got my car they where going for 11-12k for an auto in similar condition to my manual I got for 9k.
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Nov 26, 2009 04:20
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notMordecai posted:Figured! Wish me luck. Find a buddy, grand parent, parent, whatever and borrow 1000 bucks and get something that runs. You can not afford a loan right now + no bank will give you one anyway because you just do not make enough. They MIGHT give you a personal loan, but those are alot harder to get right now. And while on the subject of car loans, I paid my car off yesterday    .
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Feb 20, 2010 21:21
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Proposed Budget: 20k or under prefered, but able to stretch if going up a little bit gets a big improvement in the car. New or Used: Used Body Style: Smaller, generally hatchback but not required. It's just me 80% of the time with the occasional passanger. Prefer having a small back seat as a just in case/to hold random groceries and the like without having to get into the trunk How will you be using the car?: Daily driver with a commute of about 15 minutes and a weekly hour each way trip for various things. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability and spirited/fun to drive are my big things. Greatly prefer a manual transmission, but it's not a deal breaker. So my 2004 Impreza is starting to near the end of it's life after 20 years dealing with midwestern winters and 212k miles. So begins the first steps of research to find the next car. My gf has a Fusion so I am looking at something a little more sporty and interesting to drive. Cars on my list so far are the BRZ/GR86, Impreza, Civic SI, Fiesta, and Golf GTI but I'm sure there are some others I am missing. Anything I should be looking out for/avoid on those models?
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Jan 14, 2024 18:08
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Thank you so much for the help all! Now the fun game of getting the $$$ together, test drive all sorts of things, and wait for a good one to become available.
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Jan 19, 2024 04:05
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https://www.carmax.com/car/25224833 Is there something I'm missing on this car? I see what looks like recall fixes in California, but not much else. It's in my price range and low miles but don't want to pay to ship it closer if there is some glaring issue I'm not seeing.
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Jan 26, 2024 18:34
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Dr. Lunchables posted:It looks fine, but it’s dirty all over the interior and isn’t worth the price they’re asking. And this is the kind of info I was looking for. I have only really started to dig into the cars I am interested in, but no clue on what they've been going for recently, what is a good price, and the like. Appreciate the info.
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Jan 27, 2024 03:05
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