AI meets BFC: Car Buying Thread: No Rentals and No Salvage Titles

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Ask/Tell > AI meets BFC: Car Buying Thread: No Rentals and No Salvage Titles

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KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Throatwarbler posted:

How bad was the last generation S6 with the NA V10?

Worse than the S4 2.7TT, if you can believe it.

# ¿ Jul 14, 2012 15:51

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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 07:49

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Casu Marzu posted:

Thanks for talking me out of getting a beater truck. After more thinking, it may be more reasonable for me to look into selling my 06 Cobalt coupe and search for something that can hold my kayak/bike and such.

So, small trucks or wagons that are fairly reliable and can handle going off on gravel roads, etc? Cheaper the better. Doesn't need to be fast.

Thinking maybe $6-7k range.

Subaru Forester or Impreza Outback always a good choice. Perhaps a used 4Runner or Nissan XTerra if you want something more hard core off roading.

Gravel roads you can drive anything on. I drive a 2011 BMW 128 on gravel roads.

# ¿ Jul 18, 2012 02:35

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Small cars with autos are not very nice, but you should also consider the Chevrolet Sonic and Honda Fit.

I love the Focus in that class but the automatic is terrible.

# ¿ Jul 19, 2012 02:26

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Michael Scott posted:

Ouch! It would take a lot of convincing for me to drive something that nice on abrasive, loose gravel.

You don't kick gravel in to your own car unless you get really aggressive, and most dirt roads are so sparsely traveled that you won't get damage from other vehicles.

# ¿ Jul 30, 2012 05:08

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Agronox posted:

Any opinions on the Buick Verano lease deal out there?

It's $2,200 down, $200 a month, for 24 months, with 12,000 miles a year.

I'm in the situation where I may be moving back to New York (and thus not need a car) by the time that lease expires, otherwise I'd consider buying.

Putting money down on a lease is pretty silly due to time value of money issues.

If you do a lease you're better off negotiating the OTD price up front and then discussing payment, money down etc.

I put money down on my current lease but that's just because it was driving event incentive cash, so not real money.

# ¿ Aug 10, 2012 18:38

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

I love me some German cars but if you are only lookin to spend four grand and you need a reliable commuter may I suggest:

Ford Focus
Mazda Protege
Toyota Corolla
Honda Civic
Chevrolet Cobalt (tremendously lovely build quality but a fundamentally reliable car)

# ¿ Aug 17, 2012 15:11

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Chin Strap posted:

Proposed Budget: $3-5k
New or Used: Used
Body Style: Truck
How will you be using the car?: To haul poo poo around in.
What aspects are most important to you? Not having to worry about too major of repairs. Don't care about A/C, radio, whatever, as long as it can haul poo poo.

Me and my fiancee are starting to do a lot of farming and gardening work, and hauling poo poo around in our sedans just doesn't cut it. We want something with a bed that we can haul mulch/compost/big tools in. It probably doesn't need to be a giant truck, something more like those Toyota trucks gardeners always have.

Only issue is we don't know much about car shopping. We know we need an automatic, and we figure AWD would be nice to get just in case. We don't want to get something that needs a lot of work just to run, but we don't care about luxury poo poo or things like scratches or whatever, because this will be driven just when we need it to haul things.

So my questions are:

A) What features are essential? Automatic because we don't know or care to learn stick, and AWD in case we are hauling through lovely conditions? Anything else we would really want to look for in something like this?

B) What do we need to be on the look out for when we purchase one? We live in PA so rust is always a potential problem. Besides that I have no clue. What mileage/age should we start to worry that there will be major transmission/engine issues?

C) Is our budget reasonable? We aren't necessarily that interested in having to do a lot of shopping, so if we have to hit the upper end of it or go a bit over that is okay. Would going to a reputable dealer and seeing their used stuff be a safer bet than a private buyer? I know whatever we buy will be old enough to not qualify for certified pre-owned.

D) Any makers/models to avoid/favor?

Thanks

If you're looking to not spend a bunch of money, AWD is just additional cost up front and poo poo to break in the backend. If it's an option, why not... just avoid driving when the weather is bad enough that AWD would make a difference? (note that this is in the 2-4 inches of snow / freezing rain territory, not OMG rain!!)

I'd recommend a Ford (st)Ranger 2.3 RWD base. But if you are really looking for ultimate reliability, get it in stick.

# ¿ Aug 17, 2012 15:13

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

jonathan posted:

Proposed Budget: 15,000 - 20,000
New or Used: Used
Body Style: 4 door w/ trunk/saloon
How will you be using the car?: For the girlfriend to commute to and from work, and frequent highway roadtrips on less than perfect highways
Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos: Yes
What aspects are most important to you:

Looking for a once expensive, now not so expensive big comfy highway car. Important to have lots of horsepower, and able to cruise easily at 80mph or so. HID lights are preferred. It will be driven 3x a week to commute to work, and the rest of the time used to travel from Buttass Alberta to Vancouver BC every few weeks.

So far I've been looking at the Chrysler 300c and SRT8, I think 2006 has the HID lamps ? These range from 13,500 to $20,000

Also the 2008 Cadillac STS with 320 horsepower v6 can be had for under $20,000. The CTS is slightly small.

Is there a comparable Lincoln ? I would assume the Mercedes and BMW variants would be 10 or 15,000 more expensive for the same options...

If you want something heinously reliable and boring, Toyota Avalon.

Just some other ideas in a similar vein:
Lexus LS V8 is OK but the five speed auto had issues.
Ford Taurus isn't too bad but is lower power.
Volvo S80 is a nice choice and a little less common
Buick Lacrosse Super (2008 only)
Buick Lucerne Super (probably a better choice than the Lacrosse)

Any car that you can buy with the exception of A/B segment cars can cruise easily at 80 MPH.

I like the idea of the G8 though.

# ¿ Aug 22, 2012 20:59

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

nm posted:

Ok, then yes, he should buy a W12 Phaeton.
It does need a bunch of special tools apparently though.

They are such cool cars though.

To service everything associated with the W12 phaeton you need like 40k in special tools from VAG.

# ¿ Aug 23, 2012 15:40

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

a shameful boehner posted:

Proposed Budget: $15-20k (trade in value + 3-4k down)
New or Used: Either
Body Style: Large sedan/SUV
How will you be using the car?: Commuting
What aspects are most important to you?: Mileage/Interior comfort

I've been driving around a 2002 Honda Civic EX since 2006 or so and I'm starting to get a bit tired of it. I own the vehicle (paid off in 2009), and it's been great reliability-wise. I've maintained it regularly, changing oil, air filters, and in 2011 replaced the brakes and struts, earlier this year I replaced the timing belt and water pumps in advance of any need. I took some hail damage to the body but it's dark blue and quite hard to notice unless you're close and staring right at it (though I realize that this will impact the trade-in value). It has ~110,000 miles on it. Overall, it's been a great car, buuuuut...

It's not the most comfortable. I'm around 6'5" and 200 pounds and it's pretty tight given the length of my legs, even with the seat fully back, especially on long trips. I'd like a more spacious cabin. I realize that this is relatively frivolous need, but given that I commute pretty regularly (~22mi/day) and occasionally take trips in the mountains here in Colorado, it makes a big difference to me.

Big rear end Cars (used):

Buick LaCrosse / Lucerne - how have I recommended buicks twice? Anyway, LaCrosse is smaller, Lucerne is larger. Nice GM engines and powertrains, good size, features and comfort. GM depreciation.
Ford 500 - lackluster engine choices, but high driving position, quite large, and based on the Volvo P2 platform (safe, comfortable).
Toyota Avalon - tough to find one at your price point but god drat they're the best Buick GM never built.
Hyundai Azera - A higher-value Avalon competitor. Pretty great car.

# ¿ Aug 23, 2012 15:44

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

I would buy the Northstar on the Lucerne and the High Feature V6 on the LaCrosse, but you're right that the 3800s primary good feature is that it's completely bulletproof.

edit: I think it's also hilarious if you're calling me a GM apologist but I can't quite be sure if you are or not

# ¿ Aug 23, 2012 17:51

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

If you can even get financing. 450 and no assets/income gets denied a decent percentage of the time. Even if you get financing, you'll pay out the rear end. Have fun!

Edit: get a loan, make the payments on time and refi as soon as possible. Go through a CU.

edit2: You could get 7500 on a four year term at 18.8% and be under your payment threshold, but I don't know what your state's max is.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Aug 27, 2012

# ¿ Aug 27, 2012 14:50

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

I fit a cello in a 1995 nissan maxima and a 2003 honda accord without folding the seats.

# ¿ Aug 28, 2012 01:14

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Previous generation XJR/XJ8L. Do it. You know you want it.

# ¿ Aug 28, 2012 13:25

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Throatwarbler posted:

I really like the look of these cars too, but the huge slab of wood trim on the dash kind of looks outdated.

These had *all aluminum* bodies, so you'd think they've finally solved the British car rust problem, not to mention it was like ~800lbs lighter than a contemporary BMW 7 series, but they were held together by steel rivets, an apparently during the stamping process bits of steel were left in the press and got into the bodywork under the paint.

http://dandmbr.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=bodywork&action=display&thread=297

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=85&t=889637&nmt=

So they actually managed to make a car *entirely out of aluminum* that still turns into a pile of oxidation barely out of warranty.

Man I love that fuckin walnut tree trunk. That's one of the key selling points for me.

I had no idea about the rivets that's hilarious.

# ¿ Aug 30, 2012 21:30

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Chin Strap posted:

Proposed Budget: 10-15k
Type of car: Used Truck
To be used for: Hauling poo poo and as a second city driver.

I previously asked about getting a much cheaper truck to just haul poo poo, but have thought about it for a while and decided that our current second car, which is a 93 Mazda sedan, is getting lots of rust and starting to show its age. We don't constantly use a second car, but we definitely want to have two. It won't be driven daily.

We would still like something to haul poo poo in (nothing too heavy duty, mainly gardening stuff like dirt and mulch), and would like it to be reasonable gas mileage, so one of the lighter weight trucks. But we have upped the budget to make this a replacement for the Mazda.

Previous a Ranger was suggested by multiple folks, but that was for a much lower budget. What would you suggest at this price range? I'd prefer something certified maybe because I don't want to have to worry about too many issues with the car.

How much are you actually going to drive it, mileage wise? If you are mostly hauling it behooves you to Not Give A gently caress Bout No Gas Mileage as the drivability more than makes up for it and you'll work the engine less hard.

A used 1500 series Ram or Silverado or an F150 are good options. They came in work truck variants which were pretty stripped down and had a bench seat for ultimate truckiness. If you really want small, the Nissan Frontier is also a pretty credible alternative to the B-Series/Stranger suggestions.

Trucks are pretty goddamn simple and reliable so don't bother with CPO. I don't even know anywhere you can get a CPO truck.

# ¿ Aug 30, 2012 21:35

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Costello Jello posted:

Proposed Budget: $6,000-$8,000 (up to $11,000 if really necessary)
New or Used: used
Body Style: 4 door compact SUV or hatchback design
How will you be using the car?: daily driver
What aspects are most important to you? AWD, reliability, and decent MPG

I currently have a 12 year old Ford Focus that's still in good shape, and I'm not someone who cares about having a fancy car. However, I'm about to move to an area of the country that gets between 40-85 inches of snow a year.

I have a friend who formerly lived in this area and says that you really want to have a car with AWD to deal with the winter road conditions.

I have very little experience dealing with snow, having lived in the South most of my life. I lived in Michigan for a year, with a winter that got 32 inches of snow, and my Focus did NOT do well at all. My girlfriend had a Honda CRV with AWD, and the difference between our cars was night and day.

I may just tough out this first winter in my current car, buy snow chains and potentially grippier tires, and see how it goes. I don't have a big budget obviously, and I'm seeing that used cars with AWD come with a premium compared to the 2WD version of the same car.

But does anyone have more experience in these types of weather conditions, and have car models to recommend that I look into? I'd prefer a car with more of a compact SUV/hatchback design, that would support a roof rack well.

32 inches of snow ahahahaha.

Tips for winter driving (where I learned to drive is in the 110-140" a year range):

1. If you are in a situation where you need chains, seriously reconsider driving.
2. In fact, if it's snowing at all significantly, consider the following: Is what I'm about to do actually essential? If the answer is no, don't go driving.
3. Unless you're a serious loving skiier, or an EMS/first responder, or you Absolutely Can Never Take Off Work Ever, gently caress AWD. It's a great way to spend more money to get worse gas mileage and have increased complexity in order to have slightly better capabilities for maybe four days out of 365 (in your area).
4. Snow tires. Get them. They will insure that you wear your normal tires less, since you're using them less of the time. They will also make your focus dominate snow.
5. Carry a blanket, flares, a shovel and five pounds of sand or ash in your trunk at all times. If you have a come along might as well keep that there too.
6. Don't buy studded snow tires. They are noisy, bad for the pavement, the studs wear down and they're worse on snow than normal snow tires. They're only good on ice. You don't drive on ice in a way that they matter, I promise.
7. Chains are fine to have but I have used them maybe twice and that's only when driving a pass which has a chains requirement.

# ¿ Aug 30, 2012 21:40

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Rhyno posted:

She won't give up.

Is there a point where "New" Beetles stop being a pile of poo poo? We might get a little help from her father towards a down payment so we can look for a newer car and she is absolutely fixated on loving Beetles.

Do not buy a current (2012) Beetle.

Later model years are better. The thing didn't change on a fundamental level throughout the model run so newer the better.

The 2.5 is pretty bulletproof as is the 2.0 crossflow 8 valve. Do not buy the 1.8t.

Good luck, buddy. Learn to replace the window regulators.

edit:

leica posted:

The current gen are much better too, build quality wise IIRC. Might wanna research it, but if you can get a good percentage rate buying a new Beetle over a used one is a very smart move.

They're not, I promise.

# ¿ Aug 30, 2012 21:42

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Weinertron posted:

I would greatly appreciate some new-car buying advice on how people pull off these deals. I previously had thought that economy cars and cars with very few options had less wiggle room on the price, but then my dad picked up a 2013 Kia Soul+ for $1200 under invoice and I have no idea what a good price target is anymore.

I'm doing my best to research, but have no clue how to pick a price target because there's such huge variance. How can you know when it's OK to walk up and offer them 25% under their sticker on it like you did there and when an offer like that will get you laughed out?

No offer is going to get you laughed out. They're there to sell a car to you. You don't need to earn their respect.

edmunds.com is useful.

# ¿ Aug 31, 2012 13:02

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

leica posted:

Huh, with all the raving about how VW finally got the GTi right you would think they could make a decent Beetle, guess not. Isn't the current Beetle based on the GTi platform?

Oh, the car itself drives pretty well and it looks good inside and out. There are just... issues... related to the body style.

# ¿ Aug 31, 2012 13:04

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Ramrod Hotshot posted:

I loving hate car salesmen, so http://carwoo.com/ looks interesting. From the looks of it, I guess you bid for a car online or something? I guess the only problem I could see is you end up paying more than you would in person. Anybody tried it?

If you're buying new and you hate salesmen, and you know approximately what you want (in terms of model) email the internet/online sales managers of the dealers in the area, let them know what you want and tell them to make you an offer. Then shop the guys against each other. They'll typically make good, no bullshit offers because a) it's their job to deal with online inquiries and b) you already know what you want, so they don't have to sell you on the car and c) they can move cars pretty quickly without too much trouble.

If you can't get down to a couple hundred over invoice pretty much hassle free, I'd be shocked.

# ¿ Aug 31, 2012 13:32

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Later builds of the first gen Focus are pretty reliable. You might also be able to grab a Chevy Cobalt for that price. The Cobalt is not bad as an appliance but it's not up to the quality of Civic/Corolla etc.

Nissan Sentra around then is a decent value as well.

# ¿ Aug 31, 2012 19:16

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

What? Who's making you choose? Those are totally different vehicles.

# ¿ Aug 31, 2012 22:56

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Thwomp posted:

Going off of Agronox, there are definitely floors that dealers won't usually breach so researching the current market for a specific model is a very good idea.

Also, while tales of getting $3k off via playing dealers off one another is a great motivator to try the method, the amount you'll get off greatly depends on how much the initial car is worth. This is why you can routinely hear stories of pick-ups being sold at many thousands below sticker (because the starting price is in the high 20s or low 30s). But a subcompact may not go far beyond a thousand, if that.

I mean you're not gonna get much below invoice no matter how hard you try unless there's serious incentive cash going to the dealer. This is why I posted Edmunds which includes pretty accurate invoice pricing. Invoice plus a few hundred is a pretty fair deal for all parties involved.

Sticker is basically an irrelevant number. Dealers care about cost plus.

# ¿ Aug 31, 2012 22:57

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

We should sticky that. If you want to spend 5-15 grand on a commuter car, Focus Civic Corolla Protege Cobalt etc. If you want to spend 15-25 on a commuter car, buy a Prius.

# ¿ Sep 4, 2012 15:44

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

I would be careful (more so than normal) purchasing a new car from a Hyundai/Kia store. They're geared toward the "give the car away and make money selling money" model of car dealership operation more than the other brands. I have heard that their incentive structures from the manufacturer reflect this.

Not that it's a reason to not purchase a Hyundai or Kia. They make decent cars at this point. Just something to be aware of walking in.

# ¿ Sep 5, 2012 12:46

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Raxmus posted:

Alright fine threadgoers it seems I'm moving to the boonies soon and we'll need a truck for light small farm related goodness. I highly appreciate your expert advice.

New England Snow Truck

Proposed Budget: The truck is an absolutely required vehicle so the budget is somewhat flexible.

New or Used: Used

Body Style: Pickup truck

How will you be using the car?:
- Light-use farm truck (in the sense of not having to haul anything large or go up horribly steep grades, we'll rent heavy equipment to do any kind of very occasional hard work)
- We'll primarily be using it to get around in the winter but want the dual utility of having a truck as well.
- Commutes will be one hour bi-weekly.

What aspects are most important to you?
- Traverse through up to 26 inches of snow (October 2011 Storm) in an emergency. (I'm hard pressed to think of a situation where we would need to ever go out in the middle of 26 inches of snow but the person financing the vehicle purchase wants the capability)
- The truck needs to have enough weight to not slide around in the snow too easily (we had to put a ton of cinder blocks in the back of the old little ford ranger) but there is no need for any sort of huge truck.
- Plow attachment capability in case plows cannot reach our location.
- 78.96 = Average snowfall per year (another source: http://www.stevesauter.com/40yearsnow.htm)
- 61.55 = Average days with 1 inch or more of snow depth
- The primary use of the truck is pure utility. Function over form.
- Creature comforts, space, etc. is not a factor we care about.
- The truck does not need to be a recent model year as long as it is well maintained and fairly inexpensive and simple to repair.

My general idea is a mid size truck, use snow tires during the winter months, and have some snow chains ready in-case it's really horrible.

What's wrong with another, potentially newer Ranger?

# ¿ Sep 6, 2012 14:17

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Rhyno posted:

Fort Wayne Indiana, Glenbrook Hyundai/Bob Rohrman KIA.

The second part of the warranty is probably a nontransferrable third party warranty purchased by the dealer with clauses you could drive a whole truck full of reman transmissions through.

# ¿ Sep 6, 2012 14:18

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Raxmus posted:

RWD with an extremely light back end in the snow. Yeah I can throw a few hundred pounds in the back of it but I'm not entirely sure that's a smart idea. The conditions where we'll be moving are aren't as bad as where we used the old ('99) ranger. Also the roads aren't as windy or steep and we had trouble with the old ranger here even with weight in the back and studded snow tires (yeah I know we wanted snow tires not studded snow tires)

On truck forums everyone screams 4WD, is there a reason for that? I heard something about it not mattering while you're moving anyway.

e: That said the ranger does have some 4WD models. I'm curious as to why the CG rating is so horribly low on it? It might not mean anything but I'm curious why that is. Would something like a 2010 4WD XLT ranger be a decent choice? We can go older but apparently 2010 added traction control, anti-skid, and side airbags.

I was going to say, not all Rangers are 2WD. I'm a big fan of utilitarian so I would say 4WD in the lowest trim you possibly can get is good. The Ranger is cheap to run, cheap to work on and parts are everywhere. The downside is that it's from 1998.

If you don't like the Ranger, find a work truck spec of the Silverado 1500, F150 or Ram 1500. The work truck spec has a bench seat and is generally pretty light in terms of features, which is nice if you are focusing on utility.

edit2: Even with any normal truck with 4WD, the weight distribution kind of sucks so it's not a bad idea to keep some weight in the back in the form of sandbags.

# ¿ Sep 6, 2012 18:34

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Rhyno posted:

I think it's only one you pass the initial warranty.

You can have a clause in that warranty saying "warranty void if scheduled maintenance not performed at Hyundai of XYZ" very, very easily.

# ¿ Sep 6, 2012 18:35

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Ain't my thread but I think that's fine.

The Ranger's dead but if you go to your Ford store (or chevy/dodge/whomever) and see what they have for a cheap rear end 4x4 truck now is Discount Season on MY2012. Might be able to get something pretty cheap.

# ¿ Sep 6, 2012 21:05

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Time value of money doesn't hurt either.

# ¿ Sep 6, 2012 21:13

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

edit ^^ Ranger. More parts availability, you'll pay a premium on the Taco for higher miles, and the Chevy isn't as good. Nissan Frontier isn't bad but it's got a bit of a price premium as well.

leica posted:

I would be looking at base model 4WD F150's with the EcoBoost.

ffffffffffffffffffffffffff a package-free XL 4WD EcoBoost is 31K MSRP, come on dude.

Raximus, I know you expressed concerns about fuel economy, but how much driving are you actually doing? If you were considering a new F150, the EcoBoost gets identical fuel efficiency vs the NA V6, and costs way, way more. Why not get the NA 6, unless you'll be doing Serious Duty Hauling/Towing.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Sep 7, 2012

# ¿ Sep 7, 2012 20:41

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Geckoagua posted:

I agree, it's a pretty crap situation. The other insurance company is covering the rental until monday, but I really dislike having to pay out of pocket for something with zero return. In my brilliance I never took the rental clause on my insurance so I can't really use that option. I'm thinking I will check out several places over the weekend, if I simply don't find anything I'm satisfied with I'll extend, but I'd rather not.

Does anybody have an opinion on Nissan's? I really like what I see but nobody seems familiar with the brand.

The new Altima is fine but probably will feel a bit underpowered without the V6.

I am a huge fan of the Ford Fusion and as it's being replaced this model year you can get a current (2012) MY for cheap. Worth checking out, especially since you evidently Need Car Now. It drives quite well, is competitively priced and has decent power with the V6. I don't love the interior too much, though the leather in the SEL is of good quality. SE V6 starts at 25,000 and Sport starts at 28. You should be able to get either with an assload of cash on the hood. (like three, four grand)b

The new Camry is quite nice as well. Worth trying out, especially if you're gonna drive it til it dies.

# ¿ Sep 8, 2012 00:06

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Uncle Jam posted:

Have you thought about Scion FRS? There is no telling what the reliability would be like, but the manual is at $25k and the automatic is at $26k. The people I know who have driven it love it, but I've heard its hard to find on lots right now. That might suck with the time pressure.

The new Camry V6 is really nice. Last week I had a Camry V6 as a rental from Mon to Wed, then on Friday I got a rental upgrade to a Mustang V6 and I got all excited and it was kind of disappointing driving it because it wasn't really anything amazing after driving the Camry.

Based on him cross shopping the Optima and Altima, what makes you think he wants something like the FRS/BRZ?

I actually found the 4-cyl Camry to be more than adequate, power wise.

# ¿ Sep 8, 2012 00:21

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Ramrod Hotshot posted:

When talking about entry level cars, the old stand-bys of Civic, Corolla, Focus, etc get mentioned a lot, but I've seen that Ford Fiestas (and maybe other compact cars) are even less. Is there a reason I don't read Fiesta here much? Do they collapse at 80k miles or something?

The Fiesta is great but has only been out in the US for like two years. Nobody made A-class cars in the US before the Fit, with the notable exception of the Toyota Echo, which has some limitations.

# ¿ Sep 8, 2012 14:03

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

The Sunfire is great* if you treat it as a throwaway car and do your own basic maintenance. poo poo breaks? If you can't find the part at a pick-and-pull or on sale at your GM store, flip the thing for 500 bucks or junk it. Major repair? See ya.

*relatively

If you are getting a mid 2000s GM vehicle, get the W body with the L36 3800 V6 (or the L67 :q:

) and the 4T60/4T65 transmission. They're pretty rock solid since they're essentially 1960s technology. Expect the interior to fall to pieces. I'll shut up about the 3800 now so that Throatwarbler doesn't yell at me. The J-body is one of the worst cars made in the 2000s.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Sep 8, 2012

# ¿ Sep 8, 2012 14:05

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

skipdogg posted:

Honda CR-V, Toyota RAV4, Chevy Equinox/GMC Terrain would all fit the bill pretty nicely for you.

Take a look at each one and see which you like best. Snag a 2 to 3 year old certified pre owned and I think you'll be very happy for the next few years.

I'll also roll in the Subaru Forester and Outback to the mix.

The last gen Escape isn't too bad either.

# ¿ Sep 10, 2012 19:31

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

Unzip and Attack posted:

Proposed Budget: ~$10,000 US

New or Used: Used

Body Style: Pickup

How will you be using the car?: My wife drives to work about 2 miles every day on a scooter and we share a 4 door car on bad weather days. We want to get a dependable, mid-size or small pickup that she can drive to work and we can use to haul/move things when needed. We can both drive standard so either one works for us.

What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, affordable maintenance, safety

Little pickups (or even big ones) and safety don't go very well together. How much are you planning to haul and move things?

# ¿ Sep 10, 2012 19:32

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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 07:49

KYOON GRIFFEY JR: Apr 12, 2010; Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

TRIPLE POST:

For those of you considering a new midsize family sedan in the next few months, the new Accord was unveiled/de-embargoed or whatever today. It has been written up pretty favorably so far.

http://www.autoblog.com/2012/09/10/2013-honda-accord-sport-first-review-video/
http://www.insideline.com/honda/accord/2013/2013-honda-accord-ex-full-test.html
http://www.insideline.com/honda/accord/2013/2013-honda-accord-ex-l-v6-full-test.html

Might be worth waiting for to back-to-back with the new Camry, Passat, new Fusion and new Altima as well as the Kia Optima and Hyundai Sonata.

# ¿ Sep 10, 2012 19:55

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Ask/Tell > AI meets BFC: Car Buying Thread: No Rentals and No Salvage Titles

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