|
ZeroAX posted:What are your thoughts on getting 30K/45K/60K/etc mile maintenance vs waiting for a problem to fix something? I have a 05 Mazda 3 that I'm taking in next week to get the thermostat controller fixed and I just hit the 60K mark. I was never sure if the mileage maintenance is worth it, or if its just waste of money. mile maintenance is a scam. Look in your manual. It will show you what is required at what mileage. on the mazda 3 nothing more than air filters and oil changes are required till 60k miles.
|
# ¿ Oct 12, 2009 19:39 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 07:43 |
|
hobbesmaster posted:Keep track of the time span listed in the manual as well. yep i remember taking my mazda into the dealership for an oil change at 30k miles, they tried to sell me a $400 30k tuneup that included a coolant flush and change, the tech told me the coolant didn't smell sweet anymore so it needed replacing. Went and bought a $5 coolant tester, loving good as new.
|
# ¿ Oct 12, 2009 20:08 |
|
as long as you keep oil in your car the timing chain should last indefinately
|
# ¿ Oct 12, 2009 23:04 |
|
LorneReams posted:I have a 2001 VW Jetta that I've owned for a while. I've done all the maintance and am approchaing 150K miles. It still drives great, but now I'm unsure what more I need to do to the car. What should be my strategy? I've put maybe $2,000 in repairs since I bought it 6 years ago, and average about 22K a year. How many miles can I resonably expect out of the car? read your manual, it should have the maintenance schedule. other than that, fix what breaks, the car will last as long as it lasts
|
# ¿ Oct 14, 2009 00:21 |
|
hobbesmaster posted:
?!?
|
# ¿ Oct 14, 2009 04:38 |
|
hobbesmaster posted:Automatic transmission fluid is almost always referred to as ATF, at least from what I've seen? Or is 60k a completely bogus interval? I'm going off memory, but really drain/filling the ATF too often can only help things (flushes are a different story). every 60k miles, do 30k maintenance wouldn't it be, do 60k maintenace
|
# ¿ Oct 14, 2009 05:24 |
|
Harminoff posted:I just got a used 01 grand prix gt from a dealership and have a few questions about the financing. jesus christ, you shoulda tried to get a credit card instead of that auto loan. Pay that poo poo off as fast as possible.
|
# ¿ Oct 25, 2009 23:03 |
|
nbzl posted:My situation is this; I have a little less than $4500 left on a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado. I make $260 monthly which I have no problem doing. However I will be moving 30 minutes away for school and would like something with better gas mileage. The Chevrolet has been very reliable thus far and I've only done one major repair($600 for the fuel pump) on it. I have $5000 in my savings so I could just as easily pay it off but I feel safer having that as a cushion. The blue book on the truck is around $6000-$7000. I've broken down my options into three things; well the truck is only going to depreciate further so you might as well sell it if you dont need it. then take the cash you get + some of your savings and buy a civic.
|
# ¿ Oct 27, 2009 06:30 |
|
necrobobsledder posted:Well his approach is so absolutist with everything in the world being valued only in terms of money that I disagree with. For example, if I can make another $15k / yr by having a car instead of riding a bicycle, then I should probably lease a car because it increases my earning potential more than the cost to do so. It's like he's completely forgotten the purpose of money and the point of money is to just accumulate more, and I can't agree with that. Furthermore, there's parts of the country that are really dangerous for bicyclists and so you're taking personal significant safety risks over a matter of maybe $3000 / yr. For the people that Dave Ramsey's trying to coach, I can see why he needs to espouse what he does though, so I'm not against his methods exactly either and I feel he's personally a lot more reasonable than what he preaches. There is a pretty big gap between riding a bike and leasing a new vehicle. You could buy a cheaper car with cash which is what he advocates.
|
# ¿ Oct 27, 2009 18:10 |
|
For $424, i would just forget about it. The hassle of going to court multiple times isn't worth it, not to mention he may not even have a job to get wages from. Then you will be out the $424 and the court fee.s
Don Lapre fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Feb 11, 2010 |
# ¿ Feb 11, 2010 03:10 |
|
DuckConference posted:So in other words the guy he's trying to teach a lesson to over won't have to pay anything, will get a free mini-vacation, and get an appearance on TV. Yeah, that'll show him. But the other person gets his money, a free mini-vacation, and an appearance on tv also.
|
# ¿ Feb 14, 2010 02:08 |
|
Jagershot posted:Let's say that the damage was $524, $24 more than your deductible. Your insurance would pay you the $24, and then you'd be paying $100-$400 extra a year in insurance premiums because now you've been involved in an accident that required a claim, even though it wasn't your fault. if you are paying for uninsured motorists insurance i dont believe it counts against you, though for him saving $24 isn't worth making a claim.
|
# ¿ Feb 19, 2010 20:08 |
|
CornHolio posted:Funny (well, to me) anecdote: Why would the dealership come after them and not the bank?
|
# ¿ Mar 8, 2010 16:09 |
|
CornHolio posted:It was probably both of them. The bank wanting their money and the dealership wanting their car back. I could be wrong. I'll ask my wife about it tomorrow. There are, if you go to one of those ghetto buy here pay here. But most real dealerships give you a loan through a bank and get their money, at that point its between the bank and the person with the car. Dealership is long out of the picture.
|
# ¿ Mar 9, 2010 00:10 |
|
tuckfard posted:Not if this is the best place to ask, but I'm trying to figure out what's the best option with my little money. You ended up in the current situation because you never changed the timing belt. Im guessing recommend interval was 60k miles or so and it was never done. I would buy a beater and maintain it properly, you should be able to find a descent honda civic for $3300
|
# ¿ Mar 16, 2010 19:08 |
|
Scipio posted:It looks like a tree fell on it, has damage to the drivers side and the hard-top. Supposedly no frame damage. Its not the same mechanic that took care of your 80k mile blown engine is it?
|
# ¿ Mar 30, 2010 15:59 |
|
Weinertron posted:I know that motorcycles are similar in overall cost to operate as a car because they eat things like tires, sprockets, and chains regularly, but they couldn't possibly cost more? If you want a bike, buy a bike. But i wouldn't buy it because its more fuel efficient. If you ride the bike 6000 miles a year its going to take like 10 years to make up the $3000 entry fee in gas savings, not including replacing gear, maintenance, insurance, etc...
|
# ¿ Mar 30, 2010 17:52 |
|
Matlock posted:Not to say that's bad advice, but you've ignored about 75% of my post. I cleared $30K last year, but the month-to-month income is by no means consistent. Looking at columbus ohio for $8000-$10000 2007 ford 500 72k miles http://columbus.craigslist.org/ctd/1696591841.html 2005 Escape 87k miles http://columbus.craigslist.org/ctd/1695369035.html 2006 corolla 68k miles http://columbus.craigslist.org/ctd/1696526068.html 2004 accord 87k miles http://columbus.craigslist.org/ctd/1695695591.html Thats all just in the last 2 days.
|
# ¿ Apr 17, 2010 21:49 |
|
Arzakon posted:I forgot to mention, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a 2005+ Focus. They are identical to the Mazda 3 in everything but name The focus and mazda 3 are completely different cars in America. The focus up until the 2011 model coming up uses the original platform from 1999. The mazda 3 uses a much more advanced ford C1 platform that is shared with the european focus and the volvo s40 (and a few other mazda/volvo models). The 2011 focus will finally use the new platform. About the only thing they share is the 2.0L and 2.3L duratec engines.
|
# ¿ Apr 17, 2010 22:12 |
|
quaint bucket posted:Is the Honda Fit an acceptable alternative as a family/economical vehicle? What similar better vehicles are there? The honda fit and Toyota Sienna are 2 completely different vehicles. The honda fit is a good car, but its going to be cramped with a couple of babies and strollers. I think it would be ok with slightly older children who dont have as much baggage.
|
# ¿ May 31, 2010 02:56 |
|
Throatwarbler posted:No circumstances except for the law of the United States and the SAE. The EPA measures interior volume as a combination of luggage area and Passenger area. The Camry is 101cubic feet of passenger room and 11ft of luggage space. The Prius has 94cubic feet of passenger room and 22ft of luggage space. So yes, while the prius has enough total interior volume to be classified as midsize, the way that volume is laid out will have a huge impact on how roomy the car actually is. If the prius had a trunk instead of a hatch with similiar cargo room as a camry then it would be a compact car. Using the EPA classification is not a very good way of judging how roomy a car is going to be unless you are looking at actual PASSENGER volume numbers and not "compact, midsize, large, etc.." For Example, the Kia Forte is classified as a compact car, yet it has more interior room (97cubic feet) than the prius which is classified as a midsize car. A ford focus has 93 cubic feet, a toyota corolla has 92, a VW golf has 94. These are the cars that are going to be comparable to a Prius in interior room. Don Lapre fucked around with this message at 16:38 on May 31, 2010 |
# ¿ May 31, 2010 16:33 |
|
Throatwarbler posted:
Cargo volume certainly is important. But what im talking about is when you are sitting in the car is it going to feel Camry sized or is it going to feel Golf sized. It is going to feel similar to a Golf, or Mazda 3, or Kia Forte. People don't buy a larger car usually because of the trunk space, they buy a larger car because its going to feel roomier on the inside. If you go to a toyota dealer and sit in a Corolla, a Camry, and a Prius. The prius is going to be comparable to the Corolla, not the Camry. Don Lapre fucked around with this message at 17:18 on May 31, 2010 |
# ¿ May 31, 2010 17:15 |
|
Throatwarbler posted:Regardless of what they buy it for, wouldn't you agree that a car that can carry more cargo (or passengers) will typically require more fuel per mile? That really has alot more to do with engines, aerodynamics, gearing, and weight. You can have large lightweight cars and you can have small heavy cars. Regardless of what deal is better. If you are going to compare a hybrid vs non hybrid, the corolla and the prius are a better comparison than the camry and the prius. Someone who wants a Camry sized vehicle would shop the Camry hybrid vs the Camry, not the Prius. Yes i know, technically the Prius and Camry are both midsize, and the Corolla is compact. But the way the car feels when sitting inside, the Camry will feel much larger, and thats what people shop for. The Corolla and Prius will be similiar in interior room when you are sitting inside.
|
# ¿ May 31, 2010 17:33 |
|
There is still risk in leasing a car. You could have a lifestyle change and need to put more miles on it than allowed. You could be in an accident or damage the car and have to pay penalties and fees when you return it.
|
# ¿ Jun 12, 2010 21:05 |
|
Leperflesh posted:How many miles are on that car, and what exactly is wrong with it? Aside from whatever is wrong, is its condition generally good? Yea, you might be able to shop around and get it repaired for half that or less.
|
# ¿ Jul 29, 2010 23:18 |
|
OctaviusBeaver posted:I was in the process of buying a used car and when I closed the deal the seller told me they have a lien on the car from the bank. Now they want me to meet them at the bank to settle the lien so I can get the title. Does this sound sketchy at all? Also is there a way I can make sure I actually get the car when the loan is paid? I am uncomfortable with the idea writing a check to the bank before getting the car, but I'm not really sure what to expect here. This is perfectly normal when buying a used car with a loan still on it. Just make sure you have a good receipt like you should anyway.
|
# ¿ Aug 15, 2010 21:39 |
|
OctaviusBeaver posted:Ok thanks for the help. You may or may not get the title. If its a large bank they probably dont actually have the title there and will probably mail it to you.
|
# ¿ Aug 15, 2010 22:31 |
|
On that short amount of time, even if you got a ripoff 12% interest rate on a $5000 loan, its only about $600 over the course of a 2 year loan. Way less if you pay it off early, just make sure there is no prepayment penalty. You might as well shop around some local dealerships.
|
# ¿ Aug 16, 2010 21:50 |
|
Leperflesh posted:That's maybe true of 1960s-70s aircooled VWs (which literally catch on fire while sitting there), but it's not remotely true of any modern car, including VW. VW just recalled the routan for fire hazards. They have also recalled the passat in the past, the jetta had some fuel leak issues, i think the new beetles had an ignition wiring problem also where things were melting.
|
# ¿ Aug 18, 2010 20:22 |
|
Jealous Cow posted:I'm terribly risk adverse when it comes to debt so I need to run this by the BFC Car Commission before taking any action... Even though this is unrelated, you should be bringing home more than $3800/m. You should be getting closer to $5000. Do you have 401k/insurance being taken out? As far as the car, for $20k id probably wait for the focus to come out. The sedan is going to start at $17k and should give you more room and comfort than the fiesta. http://www.fordvehicles.com/cars/focus/2012/
|
# ¿ Oct 13, 2010 22:03 |
|
|Ziggy| posted:I have been looking into new cars and want something ~$20k that will last as well as my 4-Runner has. I have driven a few vehicles from Mitsubishi, Nissan, Mazda, and Honda. Out of those I like the Nissan Altima the best so far. I tried to check out Toyota, but something came up and I had to leave before driving anything. Does anyone have any specific suggestions on reliable cars with decent gas mileage for ~$20k? I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy new because I will be driving it for a while (5+ years) and it won't have problems or will be under warranty if it does. I dont know how ~ close to $20k you want. But the subaru outback invoices at $21,600. and gets 30mpg highway. If you can find a 2010 model left over you could probably get a great deal on it.
|
# ¿ Oct 14, 2010 01:03 |
|
Shadowhand00 posted:He's trying to sell a 330i ZHP. Yes, go to the bank with him. Pay off the loan with him at the bank. Get title sent to you.
|
# ¿ Nov 1, 2010 20:42 |
|
The new odyssey just came out which means you should be able to get a late model last gen for a good price. If you are gonna buy a minivan, you cant really beat them.
|
# ¿ Nov 4, 2010 00:54 |
|
Uziel posted:If I could find one that was a bit closer to my price ranger, I'd go for that in a heart beat. But, searching around on autotrader shows nothing within a 100 mile radius. Have you checked craigslist?
|
# ¿ Nov 4, 2010 01:31 |
|
Uziel posted:The Mazda 5 is at the top of my list. Good to know that I'll likely fit into it comfortably. We had talked about just getting a roomier sedan so I did know that the 5 drives like one. The sliding doors and cargo room are a big plus. If the distance in the mazda 5 between the front and rear seats is the same as the mazda 3, then you need to be careful about what infant seats you use. We had a graco that required the seats to be pushed way forward, but our first years seat fit really well.
|
# ¿ Nov 4, 2010 14:43 |
|
Uziel posted:Hm, we have one from The First Years (http://www.walmart.com/ip/First-Years-True-Fit-Car/10226644) Take them to a mazda dealership, they will probably let you test fit them.
|
# ¿ Nov 4, 2010 16:37 |
|
trashy_j posted:can I get some opinions on Mazda 3's? Thanks I've got a 2006 with 75,000 miles on it and nothing except wear items have had to be replaced (front struts, fluids, tires, filters). Still on original brakes even.
|
# ¿ Feb 6, 2011 19:53 |
|
cfae203 posted:Okay. With a lovely credit score and a first time buyer you are going to have a super high interest rate unless you have a cosigner. Ive also never heard of no payments for 6 months and no interest deals are usually for preferred credit buyers on new cars at major dealerships. How can your car require monthly maintenance? there is only so much required to make the car move. If you cant get someone to cosign for you you will get a high interest loan. If you do this you need to make sure there is no prepayment penalty and then pay it off as quickly as possible. Another option would be to stay in the pontiac and save up some cash to buy a better used car.
|
# ¿ Feb 17, 2011 20:34 |
|
What small truck? You really arn't going to get a huge increase in gas mileage with any truck over your x-terra. As far as selling it, go on craigslist or ebay and see what they are going for. Then sell it and buy what you want. If its not worth $12,000 then you will need to come up with the difference or ask the bank to convert the difference to an unsecured personal loan. edit: If you just want a different vehicle thats fine, but dont delude yourself into thinking buying a new truck that gets 24mpg over your xterra that gets 22mpg is going to make a difference, especially if you are going for a more expensive .vehicle Don Lapre fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Mar 11, 2011 |
# ¿ Mar 11, 2011 06:40 |
|
|
# ¿ Apr 30, 2024 07:43 |
|
Reggie Died posted:With the price of gas rising and the price of new trucks falling, I was hoping to get some advice on my current situation. I'm definitely leaning one way but I'm confused and could use some insight. If the car is still running well then $500/year is way cheaper than $400/m.
|
# ¿ Mar 12, 2011 16:14 |