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dreesemonkey posted:Q: Should I buy a brand new luxury car or truck? A year and a half ago I was in the process of purchasing a car and was looking at the Mazda3. I could buy a 1-2 year old Mazda3s hatchback for ~16-18K+TTL and after my trade in end up with ~12-13K loan at 5-6% on a used car. Instead I found a car dealership willing to cut a deal, $1000 below invoice, and got a brand new one for $18K+TTL, and got the dealership to cut me a check for $500 for an accessory I wanted the car didn't have (I ended up pocketing the $500 instead of buying overpriced dealer parts). $14K financed after my trade in. The kicker, 2.9% financing. In the sub-$20K market more often than not brand new is going to be more financially sound if you can work out a good financing deal. The whole point for me was to never be upside down on the car and not get raped in finance charges. I'm paying $1,000 over 60 payments to finance the car, got a base price very similar to a 1-2 year old car, and have 1-2 years of additional warranty versus a used model. I will always be able to "afford" this car despite the financing, as I will never be upside down on it. Worst case scenario is I sell it and buy a beater with the meager proceeds.
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Oct 21, 2009 05:40
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I agree with SAJ, I can't make sense of it at a 72 month loan like your post implies. 60 months makes much more sense and also shows that he didn't get done over too badly unless he put a big down payment along with the loan.
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Nov 12, 2009 20:22
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Scipio posted:The Mazda has 130k miles on it and is requiring large amounts of maintenance. Engine blew up at 80k, replaced with used engine with 50k, then the random replacement of parts began. In the 2009 and 1Q10 I've spend about $2000 in random repairs and I'm hearing the signs of another wheel bearing needing to be replaced $300. I also know that at this mileage other maintenance items are coming up that could run up the bills (belts, etc). That Mazda with an engine with 100K on it should last much longer. $2000 in repairs over 15 months is $125/mo which is lower than your car payment will be. Wheel bearings cost next to nothing and aren't too much harder to change than a tire. If you have a family mechanic he should do it for a 6 pack. I assume you have a 2.0L engine which if it hasn't already, needs the timing belt (100K interval) which is what I hope you were talking about as far as belts. If you were talking about serpentine belts that should be included in the 6 pack for the wheel bearing. Cost on parts for the belts is negligible as well. I don't think you are gaining much by spending $8-10K on a vehicle with 80K. You will be locked in to paying a few hundred a month for 3-4 years when it won't cost you that much to keep the Mazda running. At the end of paying all that you will have a car with 130K miles on it and you will be in the same place you are now except it will be a Jeep instead of a Mazda. The salvage seems like a good deal if you were doing it yourself, but I don't think I would recommend it to someone looking for a reliable daily driver.
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Mar 30, 2010 16:21
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https://www.rockauto.com has front wheel bearings for $23-40 and rear hubs (depending on what type of rear brakes/ABS you have) you $50-97. Even on the site you listed I see them for $20-40. I am not sure what you are looking at for $280 I can't see anything wheel/rotor/hub related for that much.
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Mar 30, 2010 16:52
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Matlock posted:Any opinions? Am I completely off-base in what I should be pursuing? $10K financed at 3.9% is $225/mo. Then you also get to pay for comprehensive insurance on a brand new vehicle. You make $880/mo. Don't buy a new car. You have $10,000. Take some time, look at 3-5 year old used cars outside of Civics, get a proper inspection done, and pay cash. Spend the remaining $3-5K on hookers and blow. Then enjoy not having a $225/mo albatross over your head for four years to own a Japanese economy car.
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Apr 17, 2010 18:44
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Sorry, I didn't expect the additional freelance income to nearly triple your take home for the year. Having $10,000 in hand gives you the one major benefit most people don't have. Negotiating with people on Craigslist with cash in hand. You shouldn't see any rust issues on cars that new, and I see plenty of 2007-2008 domestics with <60K in Cleveland for less than $10K. If you think that $30K/yr is sustainable and you pay $120/mo in rent then you no doubt can afford it, but you can get away with a lot less. The new car smell wears off in about a month and a year into that 4 year loan its just another used car.
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Apr 17, 2010 21:11
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I forgot to mention, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a 2005+ Focus. They are identical to the Mazda 3 in everything but name, don't have timing belts (a $800 maintenance job you don't have to do every 60-100K miles), and are pretty solid little cars. I don't have any personal experience but I remember hearing good things about Cobalt's the past few years as well. Research whatever model you see out there to see if there have been major issues reported. It is not as simple as "Import Reliable, Domestic lovely" anymore. http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/1696980704.html 2005 Pontiac Vibe with 22K miles for $10800. Plenty of others are out there that are newer but with higher miles for ~10K. That is literally a Toyota Matrix with a Pontiac sticker on it.
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Apr 17, 2010 22:07
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Don Lapre posted:The focus and mazda 3 are completely different cars in America. My fault, I thought they switched over everything in the mid-2000's. Still, not a bad car.
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Apr 17, 2010 22:35
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Faceless Clock posted:What is the value of owning a car? A car constantly depreciates. If you own it, it will always be worth less tomorrow than it is today. Plus, chances are that unless you really do keep your cars forever, you never will actually own the car. The bank will own the car. The average period of ownership for a person who buys a new car is 39 months. The average new auto loan term is 64 months. I get that the average person that buys a new car sells it 39 months later with 4K in negative equity. That does not mean leasing is better, it means that the average person is a loving moron. I'm perfectly ok with someone leasing a $40K Nissan Altima because they are an idiot for buying it in the first place. They are going to pay a bunch for the depreciation in the lease or they are going to overpay for the car when buying it. For people wanting these types of vehicles the answer is almost always buy an old one where some fool already took the hit. We aren't talking high cost vehicles with steep depreciation curves we are talking about a cheap rear end base model Impreza. If he wants to drive it forever he will come out ahead buying it and if he wants to drive something for 36 months he should buy a cheap piece of poo poo instead. Also, don't bother looking for a car that was priced at the bottom of the barrel new 2-3 years later because they just don't lose that much value. Especially true when you are looking at popular cars (Exception being Korean, depreciation makes those pretty incredible deals right now). With $5K down you can finance just about any base level car for the same as it would cost to lease, and get the benefit of not having to do a buyout after 3 years or pay attention to mileage. And years 5 until the car dies he won't make another payment. I care absolutely nothing about how much my car will depreciate in value. I look at it as I am spending $17,000 to drive a car for 10-12 years to 150k miles at which point I'll be 40 and buy something else in cash. If I'm lucky I'll get 2-3K back from selling it too. But the biggest benefit is not having a car payment for 5-7 years.
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Jun 12, 2010 09:03
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Faceless Clock posted:If you put more mileage on a car you buy you have to pay for it through additional depreciation. That is why leases have the mileage limits in the first place. But what if I don't care about depreciation and understand that the maintenance on an extra 1000 miles will be minimal compared to $.10-15/mi direct cost of going over on my lease. Throatwarbler posted:Leasing is the better option even if you keep the car forever. Let's say I buy a base Mazda3 for $16K (Edmund's invoice price) at 0% and pay $267 for 5 years. Or I can lease the same car on special for $199 for 36 months. Purchasing the car cost me $16K and I will get to drive it for at least 12 years. Leasing will cost me $7200 and then I either have to buy out the lease or find a new car. If the buyout is less than $8800 than hooray I just made money because a dealer wrote a lease with absolutely no upside for him. If the buyout is more than $8800 then you just paid more than you could have bought it outright for. Lets say that you decide to lease again because you didn't have a magical buyout price, and that you won't get one either for your next 3 cycles. 12 years = 4 leases = $28800. You paid a premium of $12800 to get a new car every 3 years for 12 years. Not to mention my 12 year old car is still worth $2-3K if I took care of it. Drop all of this to a 6 year time scale and you still paid $14400 to swap cars every 3 years where-as I own a 6 year old car that is still worth $4-5K and I only paid $1600 more than you. So yeah if I buy/sell often I'll probably break even with a lease in 5-7 years depending on my depreciation. After that buying crushes leasing when you are talking cheap cars. Throatwarbler posted:Again, this is making unfounded assumptions about the carmaker's cost structure. They are not selling you pork bellies, there are many costs associated with the cost of a car that are far beyond yours or mine ability to comprehend, how do YOU know that there is always a "premium"? If carmakers were perfectly rational, then they would never lose money on any cars they sell, because otherwise, they would just keep losing money until they go bankrupt and are taken over by the government, and that obviously can't happen, right? And can we drop the ludicrous notion that car manufacturers went bankrupt because their independent dealers were not good at math when writing leases rather than because US auto manufacturers had nothing to offer a changing market with increasing gas prices and their own growing labor and benefits costs? Throatwarbler posted:If you leased a BMW or other German luxury SUV, you've done well, because you're costing them hundreds of millions in losses. If you leased a GM or Chrysler SUV, you've also done well, because all their losses have been absorbed by the government and taxpayer, through the GM nationalization and TARP assistance to GMAC. IF you BUY a car, then you're just a bag holder. I already conceded the point that if you lease an expensive SUV or European car than you have come out way ahead. I am focusing on "Hey I am making a little money now and I think I want to buy/lease a reasonably priced automobile" and not "Hey I'm either rich or retarded and want to know how to lose only $40K instead of $60K on my baller vehicle".
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Jun 13, 2010 03:25
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Throatwarbler posted:I have no idea what you are trying to get at here. Are you trying to say that old cars are worth less than new cars? I knew that already. I'm saying that buying a car and driving it for 12 years costs you less than taking out 4 leases over a 12 year period. You said otherwise. I showed that not to be the case on base model vehicles to the tune of $12,000+cars value, minus the minimal levels of maintenance a car under 150K miles will need. Throatwarbler posted:Leases are not written by independent dealers, they are done mostly through the captive financing arms of the manufacturers who then package them into CDOs to be sold to other investors. I never said that was the ONLY reason they went bankrupt, I was addressing the point about how car makers could not possibly write a deal that did not benefit them. What exactly is your point here? My point is you are trying to say that auto manufacturers leasing SUVs then having gas go to $4/gallon, destroying their residual value caused them to go bankrupt. At the very least you were implying that it was more than a minimal factor. One of your links gave a $1b loss for GM and mentioned SUVs/trucks as the cause. Their bailout was $49.5b. A drop in the bucket and by no means does it mean leasing a small automobile is a good idea. Throatwarbler posted:Okay? So because you make a little money, $20k isn't real money? No, I'm saying its completely irrelevant to the person originally being given advise asking if they should buy or lease a base model Impreza. Unless they are getting an WRX STi for $180/mo then they should jump on that.
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Jun 13, 2010 04:38
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Throatwarbler posted:
You even bolded it. Unless you are saying paying thousands extra to lease a car for three years then buy it out would somehow be a better financial decision. Can you show me a lease agreement where the lease payments + buyout would be anywhere close to just buying the car with 0% financing? You are saying I should pay extra to hedge my bet that the car will be worth more at the end of the lease than I am paying to then buy out the car. You are missing the point that the cars value at 36 months is irrelevant in the purchase scenario because I plan on driving the car into the ground then junking it.
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Jun 13, 2010 06:14
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Faceless Clock posted:This is ridiculous. One guy is talking about owning a car for twelve years. Another thinks we should be happy with the "perfectly serviceable" vehicles we can buy for 15k. Sorry, this is the financial sub-forum. People here are focused on saving money for retirement and getting what they want for the least amount of money. Doing "what everyone else does" isn't even a consideration. A majority of the country may upgrade cars every 5 years but most of those people aren't saving for retirement and likely have a negative net worth. Many of us here have no qualms about driving an economy car for 10+ years, even more prefer to buy 5 year old vehicles and drive them till they die. If you are looking to drive a new car every 3-4 years then you really don't need any more instruction other than get whatever you want on a lease for whatever payment you can afford. If you have any advice on how to get the best deal on leases for certain cars or brands, then by all means share. Don't act like leases are the best financial decision when they are really paying extra for a luxury (driving a new car) that most people in this sub-forum don't care about and most people starting out financially shouldn't care about.
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Jun 13, 2010 06:55
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sanchez posted:Looks like it has a 10/100 powertrain warranty? Assuming you can prove it was maintained. Some googling gave results that the interval on the timing belt is 60K/mi. If you don't have records of it being changed on time, expect a rejected claim. If it wasn't, I expect that there isn't anything wrong with the oil pump and the belt just failed. Engine is still destroyed either way.
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Jul 30, 2010 14:08
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Astroman posted:paying in cash for less than $1000 (or really $3000) is foolish because I'll be stuck with a car that may not pass inspection, could need $2k of repairs in a few months, etc. Astroman posted:So if I had to choose between a 99 Caddy and an '05 Probe or Civic, I'm going to get the older car. The 99 Cadillac doesn't meet the good part of the criteria (cheap) and does meet the bad part of it (likely to have a more expensive repair). Not because it is a Cadillac, but because it is 11 years old and repairs just come with the territory of 11 year old cars. Astroman posted:But I've always wanted a luxury car. This is why you are really spending more money. Its ok, just be at ease with that. But a 11 year old $5000 Cadillac isn't exactly going to be luxurious either.
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Aug 17, 2010 20:29
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The 2009/2010 cars that you see that are $4-5K below new price are usually 40-60K mile specimens. There is no way I'm buying a car that has been driven 25K miles a year on average to save a few thousand dollars. On high end vehicles the depreciation is there, but on your driving appliances until you get a little further out than 2 years I just don't see the savings. Especially on something you want to drive for a long time, and don't plan on driving to death. Those 40-60K miles would last me 4-6 years. Also, financing. If you are going to be financing most of the $10-20K you will probably save $1-2K by taking advantage of 0-2% financing on your $15,000 vehicle instead of paying whatever the going rate is on used vehicles. By all means if you find a 2009 with 20-25K miles on it for $10K jump on it, I just don't see those out there at all.
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Feb 17, 2011 15:20
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Reggie Died posted:I replaced the engine a few months ago because I knew I could sell my truck for more than the engine repair cost, but it would be worth next to nothing without a working engine. I'm now setting money aside for a new timing belt/water pump, some front end work (shocks) and a canopy. There's also some rust on the rear wheel which I want to get rid of, since it's been rapidly getting worse. Why are you setting aside money for a timing belt? I have to assume they put a new one on when they swapped the engine.
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Mar 12, 2011 16:18
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If there is an actual crack in the head, then there is one thing that is leaking oil.
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Apr 5, 2011 00:00
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Twerpling posted:This is my exact issue. I have boat loads of money but I feel like a moron buying a new car. The problem is, it is so difficult to find used cars that arn't garbage for a decent price. I don't understand how or why econoboxes are priced with like $1K/year depreciation schedules. How does that happen!? $15K shitboxes don't have the value to depreciate that quickly. The only ones you'll find heavily discounted have had 20k miles/year put on them. At best you are going to find one private party for a small discount and also avoid having to pay sales tax and all of the other bullshit dealer fees.
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Apr 6, 2011 01:41
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Twerpling posted:In Maryland your car gets assessed sales tax when you register it if it was a private deal. Also what sort of bullshit fees should I be aware of? The only one I know of is the pre sale prep. Sorry about your poo poo state, the new governor in Georgia is trying to get the same thing passed. Dealer Prep, Destination Fees, Advertising Fees, Documentation Fees, pretty much anything with "fee" in the title. That isn't to say every fee is bogus or even negotiable, just another cost of doing business with a dealership on a new vehicle that you won't have paying cash in a private party sale. Its just not as simple as seeing a car invoice for $16K new and seeing them selling for $13K 2 years later. Even if the original owner got it at invoice there is still $1-2K more hidden in that $16K purchase every time.
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Apr 6, 2011 03:23
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My wife's 2001 Jetta had a terrible interior with a million broken plastic pieces and when the transmission starting slipping every gear at 90K I was so happy to get rid of that piece of poo poo.
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Apr 10, 2011 18:58
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scam scam scam scam eh scam scam The warranty for the tires likely costs more than a complete set of tires or rims. I guess if you really want an extended warranty go for it but it will likely not pay for itself any better than putting the money in a savings account and letting it accrue interest.
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Apr 11, 2011 15:07
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There is no reason to spend $1500 on a full set of tires for an Audi A4 unless you love handing the dealership money for no reason. Unless you are talking about rims too. What is going to happen that will make you buy a full set of tires/rims that won't be covered under your insurance? You would have to destroy two rims just to break even.
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Apr 11, 2011 16:21
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Either way, it doesn't cost $150/ea to mount a tire, and its been shown you can get 19" tires for ~$200. If he has 17" rims he can get the Firestone Wide Ovals I just got for my Mazda for $150/tire, buyer 3 get one free at Firestone for a whopping $450+tax+disposal fees. I was out for under $600 with an alignment.
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Apr 11, 2011 21:55
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If it makes you feel better, there is almost nothing anyone could have done to determine the turbo was going to start failing or that the starter was going to go. Its likely the last owner didn't change the oil frequently enough and the lack of lubrication fouled up the turbo. Starters just go, nothing can be done about that. $500 seems excessive for a $110 part and 2 or 3 bolts but I can't speak to how easy it is to get to in a '06 Passat. An '06 for $11K seems pretty cheap. How many miles does it have on it? Might want to start saving for a timing belt change. They are required probably somewhere around 90-105K and by required I mean you get to buy a new engine if you wait too long and the belt snaps. Sorry about the German car tax.
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Apr 12, 2011 01:57
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Duckman2008 posted:60,500 miles on it. I am reading your post as saying i replace the engine IF i don't replace the belt, so...How much would a timing belt change be? Depends on the car but $700-1000 isn't unreasonable if you get the water pump and thermostat while they are at it. Check your service interval and it will tell you when it needs to be done by. Then Google when the internet thinks you should get it done. There was a bit of a stink in the early '00s about VW moving their service intervals for timing belts from 80K to 105K to meet regulations without actually changing the belt to possibly last 105K. The timing belt keeps the pistons and the intake valves "in sync". If the belt is lost some valves will be stuck open (in the combustion chamber) while the pistons are still moving with crank. As the path of the valves and the pistons overlap, the valves not moving back before the pistons get there results in the piston smashing into the valves, destroying both, and typically requiring a complete engine replacement. Google "interference engine" for a more technical explanation.
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Apr 12, 2011 02:44
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The problem with purchasing brand new is you have to purchase from a dealer and have another $2-3K in taxes and fees added to your sale price. The only benefit is low new car financing incentives which are typically better than what you can find on used car loans. Unless your state taxes private auto sales you are better off going private party. $16.5K 2010 Mazda 3 18K Miles $14.5K 2008 Mazda 3 31K Miles $12K 2008 Toyota Matrix 52K Miles But if you want to pay $6-10K more for a warranty go nuts. I see no reason to if you have the cash to purchase a similar used car outright.
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Apr 23, 2011 03:20
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gvibes posted:In Illinois, at least, you just pay sales tax when you title the car. Where does this whole "no taxes if you buy private party" thing come from? No Sales Tax on private party car sales in Georgia. I thought that was fairly widespread. Here you just owe the regular registration tax.
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Apr 23, 2011 14:41
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Leperflesh posted:I just hit my local Craigslist for 2005 subaru legacy 6 years old and 100K miles is starting to get into "old car" territory and not "a few years old" like he was looking for and finding minimal price difference.
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May 14, 2011 20:37
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BotchedLobotomy posted:How do I go about this correctly? My credit is pretty good (~740 or so) but I've never bought a car on my own before, my current car is still my beater from college that just lived forever. You could get 3.99% from USAA if you financed $15,000 of it. You could then put the rest of the down payment in as a big payment if you wanted to keep interest from accruing. Financing less than $15,000 bumps the rate up to 4.69%. Either way if you are paying off 8-10K in 6-12 months a point of interest either way is going to be insignificant. I just did a USAA used car loan and it was pretty simple. Fill out the application online for approval, call them to verify, fax them proof of ownership, then get a check in the mail and go buy the car with your down payment + the check. After that you just list them as a lien holder when you register the car.
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May 29, 2011 19:24
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Fixed Gear Guy posted:1. What is the general process of transferring a car like? I know that I need to have the title transferred to me, but how does registration work (in Pennsylvania)? I will need to get the car inspected. Anything else I should know? 1. http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/motorVehicleCenter/buying.shtml#oos - Looks like you have to show up with the signed over title, driver's license, and proof of insurance. There are emissions and safety inspections that you will have to get done before registering the car. Check the DMV website for details based on where you live. http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/inspections/emissions.shtml 2. Unless you can prove an exemption applies you will have to pay sales tax on the fair market value of the car. Whether there is an inheritance exemption for that I don't know. Might want to call the DMV/DOR and ask if inheritance qualified under the gift exemption and what you need to provide to them for an out of state vehicle inheritance to qualify.
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Jun 2, 2011 21:38
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The 2.5L had a bad case of "engine exploding randomly" disease but the 1.8L seemed reasonably well put together. Neither have a timing belt so no worry about that being done. If you look at other models in that 70-80K miles range take a pass if the timing belt has not been changed yet unless you feel like shelling out $1-1.5K to get it done within a year of buying it. If its the 2.5L stay away because that engine is a giant piece of poo poo, if its the 1.8L stay away because its $9K for an 8 year old japanese econo-box with 72K miles on it. I get the whole "used car market is crazy high right now" thing but I have to think you can do better.
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Jul 12, 2011 03:34
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Medullah posted:My credit score right now isn't terrible, but it's not great. I have about a 680 last time I looked. My biggest hit is the fact that I have tons of credit card debt, which I plan on paying off within a month if the plan goes into play. This plan sounds awesome but I don't know how to put it into a book so I can make tons of money. Please complete step 2 below. 1. Purchase Jeep 2. ??? 3. Credit Card Debt Disappears Joking aside, getting your Debt to Income and reducing your revolving credit will probably have more of an effect on your credit than employment history.
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Jul 24, 2011 19:31
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Red Monkey posted:What is a ricer tax? Most Japanese economy cars have an inflated resale value because idiots like to buy them and slap fartcans and huge wings on them and will pay extra for the privilege of doing it. For most people a well taken care of Civic will be the same thing as a well taken care of Focus but reputation/rice factor make the Honda worth more. Red Monkey posted:I'm looking at a 1997-2000 model car, what make/models would you recommend? This is an impossible question to answer and there is a reason questions like this aren't welcome in AI. Every brand made some poo poo cars in that time period and some good cars. We don't even know what you are looking for in a car beyond that you looked at a 91 Prelude once. Go look at cars you like in your price range, google common issues with the model years to see if they are all horrible pieces of poo poo or halfway decent, then have a mechanic check out whatever you are thinking of buying.
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Aug 30, 2011 02:32
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"A Toyota" is not a car. There have been plenty of poo poo cars from every manufacturer, Toyota included. Given that any manufacturer can have a handful of engine/transmission combinations across a model year and dozens across their entire line "X is good" is pretty dumb and leads people to blindly purchase poo poo vehicles because its got a certain badge on the front. Its the reason why the Pontiac Vibe was dirt cheap and the Toyota Matrix wasn't despite being the same vehicle. If I had a nickel for every time I've seen "My early 2000's Accord's Transmission exploded, how did this happen, ITS A HONDA" on facebook I'd have at least a dollar.
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May 4, 2012 20:47
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Proposed Budget: $20000-30000 but flexible New or Used: New or low mileage used Body Style: Wagon How will you be using the car?: Going from a 2 car household to 1 in a public transportation friendly city. Usually used to haul self, wife, two kids (2 and 3 years old) and a dog. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, MPG Moving to Seattle and going down to 1 car. I'm looking to buy something outright with cash. I currently drive a Mazda 3, wife currently drives a Jeep Liberty. I'm 6'4 and fit in the Mazda (sans children) but not the Jeep. I'm not really into the high ride height so I want to try and stay away from small SUVs. New I'm looking at the Subaru Forester but haven't heard good things about the 2.5i, Volvo XC70 but the price for the T6 is a little high. What else should I be looking at? Used MB E350 Wagon? Audi Allroad? lolminicountryman? I see a 2011 CTS-V Wagon for $46K I could stretch my budget to... I'm starting to care more about features like remote start, iphone sync, and nav. AWD would be nice to have but I don't think its a dealbreaker for me. Why won't mazda sell the 6 wagon here 
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Sep 5, 2014 23:13
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How is the Outback with the 3.6? There is no way I'm putting my wife behind the wheel of a CTS-V in rainy hill land, as much as I want one. I'll take a look at some other small SUVs but the Liberty feels way different than a wagon.
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Sep 6, 2014 12:10
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