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I have a 2001 VW Jetta that I've owned for a while. I've done all the maintance and am approchaing 150K miles. It still drives great, but now I'm unsure what more I need to do to the car. What should be my strategy? I've put maybe $2,000 in repairs since I bought it 6 years ago, and average about 22K a year. How many miles can I resonably expect out of the car?
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Oct 13, 2009 20:56
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Don Lapre posted:read your manual, it should have the maintenance schedule. The manual stops at 150K.
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Oct 14, 2009 00:56
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theitguys posted:So what happens if you come out ahead at the end of a car lease? Is that even possible? It happens. My friend at work had the company lease him a car..he put so few miles on it that it was worth something like 5K more then the lease buy-out at the end of the term. He asked if I wanted to buy it out as he was just returning it, but I was afraid of getting in trouble at work. It would have been pretty sweet to get a 18K car for 13K
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Nov 18, 2009 15:07
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flyboi posted:Since you guys are all insurance gurus I'd figure I'd post the question here. So I got a car 1 month ago paid in full ( I just want to add that some insurance companies, and some states have waiver of deductibles in limited circumstances. In MA, drunk driver or hit from behind are two of the most commonly used reasons. The may just waive it and pay the damage.
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Feb 19, 2010 00:00
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) 2007 accord exl
. So I called my insurance company and I have a $500 deductible. The cost of repairs is $424 and the guy said since it's under $500 the insurance company isn't going to help you go after the guy so there's no point in filing a claim. Is this true? Also what is my next course of action? The car is scheduled to be fixed March 8th. Once that is done I am thinking I am supposed to be going to obtain a copy of the police report and go to the court house and file a judgement against this guy. Once he loses and he doesn't pay then I garnish his wages. Total time for him to pay this back I'd imagine would be like a year.
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Don Lapre posted:if you are paying for uninsured motorists insurance i dont believe it counts against you, though for him saving $24 isn't worth making a claim. I was about to say this. I've totalled three cars in 8 years and one time the car just caught on fire and my insurance never increased. My father just had his rear bumper torn off his car by an uninsured person andhe got it fixed for free as well because of the waiver of deductible.
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Feb 19, 2010 20:32
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CornHolio posted:Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if they transfer the title to you, and there's for some reason a lien on the vehicle (why they would owe money on the car and have the title is beyond me, but I've seen it done before) then they're still responsible for the lien. If they are not listed on the title, they don't have a lien. If they are not on the title, there is absolutly nothing stoping you from selling/transfering the car to someone else. Even if you have the title (I know most banks hold on to it), the bank should be listed on it and will require their authorization to transfer it from them. If not, then they are hosed, even if they have a lien.
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Mar 8, 2010 14:08
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When I got my title back, it had both my name and the banks name on it. I had to go to the registry and get a new title turning in the title they sent me which was signed over to me on the back by a signing officer of the bank.
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Mar 8, 2010 15:41
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Mandalay posted:All are 36-month leases with 12k mi/yr allowances. Everytime I think a lease would be a good idea, I read that and realise I could never lease.
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Jun 2, 2010 17:22
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Mandalay posted:
Yeah, I would only feel comfortable at 20K.
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Jun 2, 2010 17:41
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I drive like 10k miles/yr. To clarify, you mean that you drive a lot?
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gently caress the dealer, I'm seeing rates at least that low at most credit unions. Here is a rate list from my CU: code:
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Jun 8, 2010 19:45
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bewbies posted:Yeah the guy I bought it from was...amused as well. That said I don't think I could managed a cheaper car for the last 9 months. $40 payment and $25 insurance! I know this is not the best idea, but how about trying to get a balance transfer offer from some credit card company at a low interest rate, pay off the car, remove the lien, and then sell it using the proceeds to pay off the card? I actually did that like 7 years or so ago ofr my car and it worked out pretty well.
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Jul 8, 2010 16:52
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bewbies posted:I have plenty of credit left on my card...would my loan company go for that? I guess they probably wouldn't care one way or another. I had absolutly none. I told Cap one (the card I had at the time) that I wanted to do a balance transfer. They sent me a check. I wrote the check out to the finance company. They sent me the signed title. I went to the registry and re-titled the vehicle. I sold the car about a couple of weeks later, and used that to pay off the card. If I couln't sell immediatly, I was getting like 2% APR for 12 months anyway.
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Jul 8, 2010 20:11
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Tell me it's the head gasket because that would kill whatever car my parents bought like 2 years into it. I have fond memories of dead cars stuck in our driveway.
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Jul 30, 2010 00:16
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sanchez posted:I'm not sure there is such a thing as an 04 Jetta in good condition, it just has bits that haven't broken yet. I have an 01 Jetta with 200K that I've owned since 2004. Like most cars, it's all about the upkeep. If you don't mind paying 200-300 a year in minor repairs, you won't pay the 1000-3000 for the huge poo poo that happens when you ignore everything else.
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Aug 17, 2010 14:20
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Leperflesh posted:That's maybe true of 1960s-70s aircooled VWs (which literally catch on fire while sitting there), but it's not remotely true of any modern car, including VW. Both my 1995 BMW and my 2000 Intrepid both caught on fire on my way to work. In comparison, the 2001 VW Jetta has not had a single problem that wasn't fixed under recall or extended hidden warranty
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Aug 18, 2010 20:22
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Leperflesh posted:I'd like to hear how your BMW and Intrepid caught fire! Was there damage or un-maintained wear that caused this? In both cases something related to the AC overheated and caused it to catch fire, and that spread up the ignition wires and caught the whole engine up. In the BMW, it happened when it was parked, and the fire department was right next door. They put it out for me. In the Intrepid, I was driving on a highway and I started to lose power. When I got to the point where I was flooring it and going 55, I decided to pull over. I walked to the front, opened to hood and was greeted by an inferno. I jumped back and had no idea what to do. I think I started stammering like an idiot. Eventually a truck pulled over and put the fire out with his fire extinguisher.
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Aug 18, 2010 22:46
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Leperflesh posted:I'm guessing your AC compressor failed by locking, but you kept driving, causing an accessory belt to rub and the friction eventually started a fire? Does that sound right? I honestly don't know as the fire destroyed everything and I was just paid off without any investigation. It actually bothered me a little bit that they didn't want to look into it because I really want to know what caused it. I loved that intrepid and I had just paid it off that year. The BMW was an old beater and was my second car, so I didn't really care. The BMW was a 528i BTW. I bought it from a friend for like $500.
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Aug 19, 2010 13:13
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destructo posted:Better prepare for the eventuality that your windows will fall into the doors. There's a recall for that, no? I don't think they expire.
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Aug 20, 2010 18:47
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I was told by the guy who fixed it is it's because they used plastic retaining clips. The recall replaces them with metal ones. I'm sure other cars followed this grand cost cutting measure.
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Aug 20, 2010 20:00
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CornHolio posted:In this age of OBDII cars, a broken O2 sensor will always trip a code. I don't think shops should be allowed to charge more than ten minutes of time (assuming they can't find their tool) to diagnose a check-engine light (unless it is a rare case of it not being obvious, for instance a vacuum leak or something). Especially when a reader costs $50 and Autozone reads them for free anyway. Forgive my ignorance, but the $50 autozone tool is the same as the computer looking tool the dealers use? The one I borrowered from auto zone told me that I MAY have a o2 sensor issue, but the dealer computer tool told me exactly which o2 seonsor was malfuntioning, unless I was using it wrong.
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Sep 2, 2010 13:36
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CornHolio posted:Not worth the diagnostic price yet, though. Every dealer I've been to would apply the diagnostic price to the repair, os it's not always a bad thing.
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Sep 2, 2010 14:08
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I used to have to turn the engine on and off a few times and the code would blink out. I would then look in the book to see what the code meant. I used to feel like a god drat genius for figuring that out. This was a little before the easy of the internet however. VVV I needed to leave a deposit for that tool that allows you to twist in your brake caliper to get it to compress. LorneReams fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Sep 3, 2010 |
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Sep 3, 2010 00:40
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:A vise? That's all I used, lol. Mine won't work with just a vice, the cylinder needs to be turned as you press it in...this of course took 2 hours of swearing to figure out....
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Sep 3, 2010 12:46
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Some utilities use a credit forward payment service that absolutely will count as an installment loan on a credit report.
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Sep 4, 2010 14:37
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I had someone offer me a chance to buy out his lease..he had only put like 5K miles on it and it was worth 20K while his buyout was like 13K. I wish I had taken him up on it...I wonder if that sort of this is common?
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Sep 8, 2010 15:54
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Tortilla Maker posted:Did you try bringing it into a dealer...they are more expensive, but they should be able to tell you exactly what is wrong. I've had similar issues, I would go to my regular guy and he would do his best, but after I got the VW, I found problems kept coming back. After I went to the dealer, it was usually fixed for good, and they tend to be MUCH better about offering comps if they think you are interested in buying from them in the future. I've gotten free or cheap repairs, free oil changes, cheap mats, etc. Having a relationship with a dealer is key. A 03 with 170K isn't going to get you much on the market I'm afraid...I'm in the same boat (01 with 160K), and I decided to drive mine until it dies. The reapirs so far have been cheaper then car payments if I worked it out, in fact much less as nothing broke in a while. I'm about due for my timing belt, so I'm a little worried about how much that will cost, but I'm going to see how long I can ride this out as I've seen people at the dealer with late 90s models with 300-400K miles.
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Sep 10, 2010 13:13
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Don Lapre posted:Even though this is unrelated, you should be bringing home more than $3800/m. You should be getting closer to $5000. Do you have 401k/insurance being taken out? I make around 60 and take home ~2900 a month, so it seems inline to me.
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Oct 13, 2010 23:10
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Interest accrues daily. Think of a bowl that slowly fills will your interest amount owed every day....when you make a payment, that amount will first be applied to fees, then interest, and then principle. You can see that what day they apply the payment to your account would make a difference. Shorter months will accrue less interest and longer months will accrue more. this is also why the last payment will always say something like "Call for last payment amount" because it can change and be off either direction.
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Mar 7, 2011 20:08
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Or not give a poo poo because it all works out in the end...this is not a mortgage.
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Mar 7, 2011 21:43
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sanchez posted:The new Jettas are cheap trash. I drove a bunch of new midsize sedans recently, the accord was a clear winner, the only thing the sonata had over it was the transmission. I have to agree with this. I have a 2001, and I went to test drive a new one and it felt like a loving 90s escort. Everything was cheap about it. I was really disappointed. Then I ironically rode in a new Taurus....WTF! It's like bizarro world.
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Jul 18, 2011 15:32
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stubblyhead posted:We were planning to trade in the old shitbox, but my wife was talking to the neighbor today, and her granddaughter may be interested in buying it. It's fine for short trips around town, which is what she's looking for. I'm pre-approved through my bank at 3.0, but if they can do better I'll certainly entertain it. Let them run your credit first...they have a network of banks who will all lowball themselves to give you credit. You almost always get a better deal for finacing at the dealer because of dealer networks.
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Jul 21, 2011 16:25
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Phone posted:I definitely understand where you're coming from. If I was looking at BMWs or Mercedes, it'd definitely be different. I'm looking for a "new" car because mine just died and is not worth it to repair. I'm running into the same thing. Up until now I always bought a 2-3 year old car with between 20 and 40K in miles. The volskwagon I bought in 2003 was a 2001 with 35K miles and I got it for $10K (or > 50% discount from new). It lasted 190K miles before it gave up the ghost. I would never have considered buying a new car, but I'm looking at the prices and people are either insane or know something I don't. I have a spreadsheet and have been looking like crazy every night for the last week and people are selling cars like 10 - 20% under new car prices, if that. At that discount I may as well just buy new and get the warranty.
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Jan 12, 2012 16:10
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Leasing seems to work exactly like a balloon loan.
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Jan 26, 2012 18:17
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Leasing seems like insurance. It reduces risk at the cost of a premium.
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Feb 6, 2012 16:18
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I would recommend not even loving around. Grab the invoice TruPrice or whatever it's called from edmunds, call 5 different dealers and pick the one that will give you that price (or close to it) out the door. Make sure you say OUT THE DOOR. Then when you get there, understand you are going to be paying for tax and registration fees (know this ahead of time so you don't get hosed), and then refuse to pay any other bullshit fee that they love to put on the P&S agreement. Like physically cross them off (VIN etching, doc fees, etc.). They make it look like you can't do this, but you can. If they give any resistance, just leave, someone else will give you what you want.
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Feb 7, 2012 17:18
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Try Capital One, they tend to be pretty good on Auto rates, and they may have a direct link to the dealer already.
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Feb 16, 2012 17:37
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Back in the day, I would take my beater and donate it to charity for what ever the best KBB value was and kept the printout as documentation...they don't let you do that anymore, but it was nice writing off $8K for a BMW I paid $750 for.
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Mar 20, 2012 17:23
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I've seen it done a hundred times and it looks easy as poo poo. At my work, there is a parking lot with like a thousand cars in it and once a week without fail, the glass replacment van pulls up and replaces someones windshield or side window, and it takes one person 15 minutes and like 3 tools.
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May 2, 2012 18:34
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Doc_Uzuki posted:BFC/AI please talk me out of doing something stupid. Don't think about it in terms of money per month. Work out how much your car is worth, how much the Focus is worth, and then you should be able to tell if it's a good deal or not.
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May 3, 2012 16:08
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It sucks, but with some extreme negotiation skills, you can get a new Forester for less then a used one as people tend to hold on to them. I found a new 2011 for 17.5K at the dealer (base model) when the cheapest used was 18K+.
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May 7, 2012 23:12
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