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Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

The new Rav4 hybrid has a big jump in efficiency over the non-hybrid (and previous gen hybrid), for not that much more $ per equivalent trim, that would easily pay for itself. Just go drive a cx5, crv, and rav4 and pick the one with the best tradeoffs for you.

they also finally have loving carplay and get some anti-collision stuff (with active cruise control!) by default.

Infinotize fucked around with this message at 23:35 on May 13, 2019

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Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

It depends on the state too. In Oregon only tires with the "mountain and snowflake" symbol count as traction tires that don't need chains.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

I would at least look at a new Sienna if you're looking at minivans, it was just redesigned and while they don't have removable 2nd row seats any more, are all hybrids that get 36mpg, and will not have reliability issues.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Crash safety is very dependent on a specific vehicle's design, but people in pickups and suvs die less than people in cars: https://www.iihs.org/topics/fatality-statistics/detail/passenger-vehicle-occupants.

Googling this topic is a minefield, but there is at least a grain of truth in the idea that all else being equal, a bigger & heavier cage is safer **for the occupants of that vehicle.** One thing I tend to see in articles rebutting this idea is that they use the idea of "combined risk" to all occupants in all vehicles involved in a crash.

Having driven a fiesta in houston traffic full of giant pickups, I also get why people want to sit up higher. I get it that enthusiasts don't care and love to make fun of this, but it's really not unreasonable and modern cars have become something of an arms race. And we love to say "just be an expert driver" but people are afraid of being plowed into by some guy on his phone in an f250 and that's not unjustifiieable.

(Gas should cost $6/gal, charge reg fees exponentially increasing by GVWR, etc)

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Hybrid vs not really depends on the specifics for a car. For example with a rav4, an equivalent hybrid costs $1100 more than the conventional. The conventional AWD MPG is 29 combined vs 40 MPG combined. If gas is 2.50/gal the break even point here is 46k miles. If your gas costs more it will be way sooner. On top of that the hybrid powertrain has more power and is more refined. So unless you wanted one of the specific rav4 models with certain types of mechanical AWD systems, there is absolutely no reason to ever buy the non hybrid model. The differences may not be as stark for every hybrid model.

I disagree about hybrids being worse for the environment. If there is any substantial fuel consumption difference, these differences will end up resulting in a total lifecycle emission being lower, usually way lower, than the less efficient car, and this carries over very well to PHEV and EV cars. See https://afdc.energy.gov/vehicles/electric_emissions.html. EVs have drastically higher manufacturing impact but even on a dirty grid will pass the break even point on emissions within a few years vs a gas car. And the grid will get better over time.

Now on the corolla example the price difference really kills the deal. $3125 extra for the hybrid is a ton at that price point. And it only comes as an LE trim. If you drive the hybrid a ton it will make up for the cost difference but it really is marginal.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Slimy Hog you seem like a pretty everyman car buyer so: get a rav4/crv/tucson hybrid and put crossclimate2 tires on it if you won’t do snow tires. If those are too small get a highlander/santa fe hybrid. (Actually in that case get a sienna hybrid.) Assuming you MUST have awd and care about mpg as stated, and anyway the hybrids are generally the better versions of those vehicles

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Prius c is probably a great choice here because not only does it meet op’s reqs but it’s generally hideous and has to be undesirable and cheap?

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

One more model to consider, ford fiesta hatch. It’s tiny but can fit a lot, is cheap and gets 40mpg without being a hybrid. They are known to have iffy DCTs but I had one for a few years with zero issues.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

BIG FLUFFY DOG posted:

I ended up getting a Yaris because I could afford to buy it without financing.

Model thread user here. Well done

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Well elon tweeted that things are going to get better so

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Add the hyundai/kia equivalents to your list, they have hybrids. If you need to carry 4-5 adults the compacts may not do that well.

If you’re driving to snow resorts I would plot out your routes because an ev might not make any sense if you have to travel far.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Congrats on your highlander hybrid

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

The e39 screams bad idea, but if it is genuinely cheap and has been used regularly and nothing is currently broken, it would very likely continue to work for the next 6+ months. But when it needs a repair sooner or later it will gobble up your remaining budget.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

(Walter White talking to Jesse Pinkman at Dennys meme)

Hadlock what the gently caress are you talking about

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Unless you really really want a subcompact size get a Cx-5 over a 30. The 30 looks disproportionate to me and the plastic wheel cladding is like half the fender. The 5 is not really a massive car or anything and youll get a usable backseat and more cargo room. I’m selling my ‘19 cx5 turbo signature (red) soon and it’s only worth like $30k or slightly less and it’s completely perfect, a lot of car for the money in today’s market.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

All Dealers Are Bastards

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Ok that is way more interesting.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Washing salt is a losing battle, you’ll never be able to do it as often as you want for one reason or another. A lot of enthusiasts with older cars seem to be trending towards using those grimy/oily anti corrosion sprays that basically coat the bottom of your car with goop, that gets applied and removed seasonally.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

zedprime posted:

Hybrid isn't saving money for probably the majority of their purchasers as it's best for very specific urban and suburban driving profiles.

...

Our accounting stops very simply due to living about a mile away from each of jobs and similar distance to the commonly used shopping center. A hard driving year for either car is about 3000 miles.

Going for lifetime analysis gets into the weeds further. Hybrids pay back for stop and go urban traffic. Highway driving will be a drag to that net-benefit calculus as those batteries and motors come from somewhere extra. Back to my profile as an example, most of that hard driving is going to Costco or to see family or to the not so local airports so out of 3000, charitably saying 1000 might be at the city money zone.

Poster who says hybrids are wrong for most people bases it on their driving habits of < 25% average annual driver mileage.

I would say for anyone who drives close to average or more annual mileage (13.5k) regardless of conditions and plans to keep a car at least 5 years, to definitely go with the hybrid in normal/appliance class cars unless there is some known lemon hybrid powertrain vs its gas equivalent. If your circumstances tweak the variables in favor of: higher mileage, higher gas price location, lower MSRP difference for hybrid, then like absolutely get one. If you barely drive and live in houston where gas is cheap uhh I guess don't.

e: phevs don't count, not really comparable and depends way more on individual circumstance

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Sienna current model is hybrid only, and hard to get in some places (without markup). Also because the current gen has airbags in thr second row they don't fold or come out*, im not sure if you can still fit a 4x8 behind it.

* no tool-less way, of course with tools they can come out

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Fortunately I can't remember the last time I had a rental that wasn't a toyota or hyundai

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

ethanol posted:

How bad is progressive? Because on that new rav4 hybrid I bought GEICO was quoting $150 more per 6 months over a freaking 2 year old Tacoma. Progressive quoted $70/ month which is $60(!) / month less than GEICO was having me pay on the truck. I made the switch.

It's a commodity product, but with a bunch of invisible variables, so just get whoever is cheapest for the coverage you want and requote every year or so and switch as necessary. Fwiw I've had them a long time and they always quote ~cheapest although I've had to resign as a new customer a couple of times. I had to deal with a couple of claims and it's been fine, when I had to deal with a state farm at fault adjuster it was like talking to a potato. But insurance is just one of those things you have to go through the process yourself.

Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Ornery and Hornery posted:

Alright I bought a replacement car.


I still have my old car. This old car is registered as “totaled”. It’s aesthetics are beat to heck and the mechanics are serviceable but not great.
  • What do I do with this old car to get whatever money I can?
  • What administrative steps will need doing?
  • If I can’t find a way to get money from it, how do I dispose of it and relinquish legal ownership/responsibility?

Thank you goons for helping me through this process :)

So the car was totaled and you bought it back from the insurance company? That's typically the only way you end up with a total/salvage car. If you didn't you would have transferred the title to the insurance company who would have junked it for you. If you still have it, you can either junk it yourself or fix it, usually to a standard that it passes a state inspection, and it gets titled something like rebuilt. Your state dmv site has steps listed on how to do this, look them up. I imagine there's some other process for junking a vehicle and notifying the state about it.

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Infinotize
Sep 5, 2003

Ornery and Hornery posted:

So the insurance company cut me a check for a few grand and I kept the car. I never transferred ownership to the insurance company and I never bought it back. I just kept it. I researched the dmv in my state and basically I just updated my registration to say that it was totaled but still driveable.

I guess different states handle that differently then, but it sounds like you already answered your own question. Usually the car will have to pass a state safety inspection to become "driveable" after a total but if not, yolo. If your state doesn't care then do whatever you want with it, you treat it like any other car that needs a current registration and such. It still needs liability coverage so make sure your insurance didn't cancel the policy on you.

E: getting money from it, you can sell it as is to some moron like the guy a couple posts up, or to a salvage yard. Maybe donate, I have no idea if donations take totals.

Infinotize fucked around with this message at 18:32 on May 5, 2024

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