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Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

Tahoe/Suburban, Yukon/XL, Escalade/ESV is a wheelbase/body length difference, they're all three rows but the short versions have next to no cargo room with the third row.

This became a lot less true in MY 2021 (?) when they went to independent rear suspension. Cargo room is now comparable to or better than any other three row I could find aside from minivans, and no longer that far off there (25ish vs 33ish cubic feet)

Hadlock posted:

I was under the impression that GMC was the flagship brand/trim level/grille, and fleet sales usually chose the second to bottom tier trim level

Most of their non pickup truck model lineup slots below Cadillac and above Chevy, so…

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Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I was wondering the other day which came first: the Denali, or GMC generally being considered upmarket vs Chevy

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Are you saying you don’t know the model year of your own car?

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Hadlock posted:

For our daily driver? Correct. I can't tell you what year I bought my toaster or blender, either

I know it wasn't originally from the rust belt

Color me shocked that the poster that can’t remember basic information about their own vehicle also can’t remember much correctly about others’

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Alright, gonna throw this out there in case some useful feedback comes from it. My wife and I are going to get a new family vehicle and we're fairly set on a new Yukon. For a while, we'd figured the SLT trim level, with the 3.0 diesel, was the way we wanted to go. But after a few weeks/months (we're very slow vehicle purchase decision makers because we actually enjoy hemming and hawing over it forever like idiots), we're questioning whether we might want to go with the AT4 trim level instead. The price is close enough that it's basically a wash, but the AT4 is not available with the diesel engine.

Financially, we're not concerned about affording either, but would of course prefer not to spend more money needlessly. So the diesel is appealing from that standpoint: while diesel is often a decent bit more expensive, it doesn't seem like it's enough to overcome the difference in gas mileage. On the other hand I've heard lots of concerning things about modern diesels with maintenance and repair costs, and that despite their better fuel mileage it's not clear to me that they're any better if not worse in terms of emissions.

The AT4 trim is, subjectively, better looking and more appealing to both of us. I'm sure that the SLT would be sufficiently capable for any driving off pavement we would do (a fair amount, but nothing challenging or technical). But it is also better equipped and has a few more things that are nice to have standard. We'd probably get it with the 5.3L engine, rather than the 6.2L: I feel pretty confident the 5.3 would be plenty for us, and the 6.2 recommends premium fuel. I know for a newer engine like that it's probably really more of a recommendation than a requirement, but where I live most of the gas stations are quite expensive except for one, that is usually $1+ cheaper than the rest, but doesn't have premium. So it feels pretty silly to get a car that wants it.

That's fairly rambly, but I guess in short I'm curious if anyone reading has much specific knowledge about that range of GM engines and has strong opinions one way or the other about their quality, reliability, etc.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Hadlock posted:

5.3 vs 6.2: do you have significant towing needs

Towing needs but not significant. A small 19’ ski boat that we want to be able to use the new car to tow, most often just a few miles to a nearby reservoir. For anything heavy, we have an F350.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Agreed, which is why we were figuring on the 5.3 if we got the AT4. Sorry if that wasn’t clear.

I did want to leave that question at least a little bit open though because if anyone thinks, say, the 5.3 is hot garbage and the 6.2 is great, that’s an opinion I’d like to know about

Steve French fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Sep 30, 2023

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Thanks for all that. And yeah, 3.0 diesel, 6.2 and 5.3 gas engines are all that’s available on the Yukon.

Meanwhile, went to a neighbors house for his kids birthday party yesterday and he wants to offload one of his two (??) diesel excursions…

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Motronic posted:

I always thought excursions were just a ridiculous non-answer to the already wildly popular suburban and just a really bad idea, bus drat I'd totally take a diesel one and immediately ruin it with a mild lift and knobby tires.

The money we’d save not buying a new Yukon would pay for a lot of dumb poo poo like that, I’m honestly pretty tempted. It’ll come down to details and how much my wife is okay with not having more modern comforts like auto 4wd, heated seats/wheel, cameras. It’s stupidly large but also reminding myself it’s still shorter in overall length and wheelbase than our F150, which I’ve never found all that cumbersome to drive.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

In my experience the best tactic is walking out the door

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

Also every brand with a no haggle model has had a bunch of consumers complain and think they aren't getting a good price because they aren't getting A Deal. It also means that you can get your legs cut out from under you by dealers of other brands who can discount more heavily. This happened with both Scion and Saturn.

The current supply-constrained auto market is not actually representative of the historical auto market. Until the pandemic it was fairly easy to buy lots of cars at or below MSRP.

Does it seem like Tesla is getting this same pushback?

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Motronic posted:

I always thought excursions were just a ridiculous non-answer to the already wildly popular suburban and just a really bad idea, bus drat I'd totally take a diesel one and immediately ruin it with a mild lift and knobby tires.

Ok but would you still do it if it were the 6.0 not the 7.3

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Motronic posted:

Depends on if I want a project car or not and had the space. If you have the ability to pull the cab and do all of the 6.ohno things to it (it's a formula at this point) then sure. If they're already done then hell yeah. But the price would have to accurately reflect that first scenario.

Well, space isn’t a problem, this would be replacing two other vehicles. Already have two projects but not short on ambition, even if I’m short on time to actually back it up. I’ll be getting more details from him on what’s actually been done and how much he wants, but I know it hasn’t had the full bulletproof treatment. My wife is oddly into the idea, so at some level I’m game for a bad idea here because the savings from not buying a new Yukon would pay for a heck of a lot of repairs or other dumb things, and timeline on that isn’t looking good anyway.

I’ve also got enough vehicles that a lot of them would have to crap out at once for it to be a problem. If I go forward with a stupid decision here I’ll be sure to make an update in AI

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Motronic posted:

That is absolutely state specific. It simply is not a thing at all in my state. If you, a seller, have a clean (no liens) title and sign it in front of a notary it will be transferred to the seller listed/signed/notarized when sent in to the state DMV.

Is using a notary some state specific thing also? I’ve never used or thought about using a notary for a title transfer

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Motronic posted:

Yep, it's totally a PA title thing. When I buy a car in NJ all I need is for the seller to sign the title, then it's accepted by PA for the transfer because they can't force other states to do their stupid thing.

For some reason PA really loves making you get things notarized. I've heard it was a push in the pre-internet days to allow for mail submission of stuff for the rural pennsytucky people who didn't have gov offices nearby.

Interesting. What does it look like to buy a car in PA without meeting the seller in person with a notary? Each party separately notarizes?

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

37” mud terrains are perfectly capable of getting you anywhere you need to go on pavement, but of course that similarly does not mean they’re the ideal choice for it

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003



Alternatively

Steve French fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Dec 13, 2023

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Nitrox posted:

The steady march of people into the thread, who thinks that AWD is somehow a traction compensator, continues without interruption. Is this because of marketing? Are laws of physics so widely ignored? Perhaps we can add it to the thread title

Caltrans has bought into the marketing too.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

bergeoisie posted:

At least in the PNW it puts you in a different category for chain laws during winter which has been worth it for me, at least.

Yup this is what I was referring to with my caltrans comment earlier, same deal in California. If you’re not AWD/4WD, you need chains during storms on the freeway here more or less. So for me 2WD is a non starter.

Absent that, if I had to choose 2WD and snow tires vs AWD and all seasons? Edge to snow tires.

Realistically I’ll take both thank you very much, having power to all four wheels absolutely helps and is worthwhile in many places despite some folks feeling like they need it when they don’t.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Not Wolverine posted:

Proposed Budget: $20k
New or Used: Either
Body Style: Unknown
How will you be using the car? I will be transporting two kids to and from school, about once a year I take long road trips with my kids (sometimes kids + wife) and my dog. To that extent, my sedan can seat myself, the kids in the backseat, and the dog in the trunk front seat but that is less than ideal. I stead for the last road trip I chose to rent a crossover, one was a Jeep Cherokee (tiny POS) the next was a Hyundai Santa Fe (decent POS).
What aspects are most important to you? I think I need a 2 row crossover with a large trunk, I do not want a 3 row with an unusable "trunk" space like the Jeep Commander with the 3rd row up. I'm pretty sure this is a stretch goal, but ideally I would like something capable of towing a small camper trailer or maybe launching a small boat or jet ski. To that extent, I think a small pickup like a Colorado or F-150 might fit most of my needs, but it would mean putting my dog in the dog on road trips, I'm not sure how I feel about that. I think I would be ok with putting my dog in the bed if he is in a secured crate, and maybe a cover on the bed in case it were to start raining. Realistically I think the dog requirement for long trips might eliminate the small pickup option.

Ideally, I would really like something enough to have adaptive cruise control, and a backup camera. I feel like the amount of time I get parked between two land barges basically requires a backup camera in parking lots these days. I'm also considering maybe just adding a backup camera to my current car, a 2012 Impala. I would love to add adaptive cruise to this car but I don't know if that is realistically possible.

I wouldn’t call an F150 a small truck, but a crew cab will fit two adults and two kids and a dog pretty comfortably in the cab, and fit in your budget. That’s not to say it’s necessarily a good choice overall (they are big! Like, with a crew cab and short bed, bigger than a Suburban big).

Source: my wife and I have two kids, just sold a 2014 F150 that we owned for 6 years for just under $20k, and had between two and three dogs during that time. The back seat is big enough that a dog can sit in the footwell in front of the kids. Or you can fold down one of the side seats with the kids in the middle and other side.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I believe the Touareg/Cayenne have had adaptive cruise control since the start of the 2nd gen (2010), and will tow 7700 lbs, plenty for a small boat / jetskis / lil camper, and should be findable in your $20k budget.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I’ve got a ~20ft ski boat and honestly towing it around with my F150 it never even broke a sweat. You do not need anything that big even if you had a real actual immediate use for towing a small boat, let alone a hypothetical aspirational need for doing so.

Also demerits for shade thrown at 996s

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Not Wolverine posted:

I agreed finding towing with ACC for $20k is unobtainable, but if I omit ACC a midsize of half ton pickup is probably not a terrible idea.

But I genuinely don't care about 4 wheel drive, it only snows once or twice a year here and 4wd doesn't improve stopping on ice. I also don't need a 3rd row, but I would like a decent trunk space, possibly something that could fit plywood inside but I'm certain my price range would necessitate hauling plywood on a roof rack or trailer.

Not sure if I’m interpreting this right but you don’t need an 8’ bed to put plywood in a pickup. Tailgates fold down.

Deteriorata posted:

An Odyssey or Sienna can tow 3500 pounds.

Depending on the type of boat he’s considering, that might be enough, but it’s also not that much and pretty darn easy to exceed that with a not very big boat and trailer.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Shipon posted:

I'm finally in the position where I'm making pretty good money and can afford something fun, so this is the first time I'm going to a dealer to buy a new car (all my cars up to this point have been <5k beaters off Craigslist with well over 100k miles). Been looking around and I found a dealer nearby that has a '24 GR Corolla Premium coming in the next few weeks and asked me for a $500 deposit to reserve the car, so I put the deposit down.

Dealer claims they don't do above-MSRP and the sheet they gave me with the suggested retail price has about 1k in extra stuff that I'm not terribly enthused about but I'm also not really going to get super in a fit about, total price a little under $42k. Toyota's financing rates seem to be absolute rear end (I have a ~770 credit score and their site says it's like 9.8% for a 60 month loan???) so I spoke with a local credit union and applied for a loan (hard credit pull) and they gave me a pre-approval at 6.5% for 60 months. Got a call from them, told them I was still waiting on the car to arrive but just applying in advance so I could come in with a counter offer for financing, but they said I needed a purchase order and proof of insurance before being able to approve the loan.

This seems like a chicken and egg situation to me - to get the car I need the loan but in order to get the loan I'd need to have a purchase order and insurance on a car I don't own yet. Is there something I'm missing or is this something dealers know how to handle fine?

I think (without a lot of experience), that it’s a little tougher to do with some credit unions. Last car I bought I just did dealer financing and then immediately refinanced with my credit union, which required an annoying amount of documentation and paper work.

This time (tentative delivery this morning) the credit unions rates are poo poo so I’m not bothering, but I did shop around and best I got was 5.79% from Bank of America, and was able to get a printed out letter of approval with dealer instructions on it that they supposedly can handle during delivery. Took less than 10 minutes.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Deteriorata posted:

Credit unions will almost always have the best rates.

For what it’s worth this is not my lived experience; they’ve had best rates for me maybe a bit less than half the time. Most recently Bank of America had a much better rate than any other lender I looked at.

This is more to say that you shouldn’t take as gospel that CUs have best rates and only get offers from them, not that they don’t have the best rates: always shop around at CUs as well as big banks.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I sold a car a few months ago on Autotrader to a guy who flew in to pick it up (LA to Reno). It was fairly cold the morning I was driving down the hill to meet him (single digits F) and I got a late start so was aggressive with the defroster.

There was a bang on the freeway halfway there and I watched as a crack extended in both directions across the windshield from the center over the course of 15 or so seconds.

poo poo, sorry dude, I swear it wasn’t like this yesterday

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Yeah and you can also buy a brand new car with built-in wireless carplay that is hot loving garbage and fails to connect 80-90% of the time, or decides that you need to accept the terms again for some reason, or decides halfway through a drive to connect to the other phone.

Looking at you, GM. I'm sure their Carplay competitor will be astounding. Astoundingly something other than good.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Have you looked at Autotrader Private Seller Exchange?

I sold a car through them fairly recently and it was fairly painless.

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

skipdogg posted:

Get the Lexus you want. That’s what I would do.

I’m going to get flamed for this but I love full size truck based SUV’s. I have an Expedition with the stealth package and 4wd and it’s crazy comfortable and capable. Gas mileage is poo poo though. There’s a reason they sell so many Yukons, Tahoes and Expeditions though.

Averaged 27mpg driving round trip to Mammoth from Tahoe last weekend, with a huge roof box on top, in a diesel Yukon. poo poo mileage, but can be a lost less poo poo

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

DNK posted:

Note: Diesel’s currently like 20% more expensive, and it’s been around that for at least the past year. It’s kind of a wash in terms of operating cost, but you can go further on a same-size tank.

I’m not going to argue that other folks should go for it, but this is highly location dependent. For the 6 months or so we’ve owned it, where we are diesel has been either roughly the same as gas, or a good bit cheaper. My last fill up was $3.50/gal, and 87 octane at the same station was $4.40/gal.

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Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

TheBacon posted:

If you are filling on the CA side (which I assume you are) that means you are getting CA summer mix which is even more expensive than just normal CA higher gas prices. I assume you know but it is kind of relevant to the thread.

Nope, those prices were at a Maverik in Minden NV. The price difference is actually smaller by quite a bit right now in CA.

And anyway my point wasn’t “diesel is cheaper!”, it was “it depends on location, here is a counter example.”

So, yeah, the summer mix price is relevant to the thread but not at all counter to my point

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