Midjack posted:

Looks Like the Tin Man's Undies After Taco Tuesday.

kastein posted:

quit loving cheaping out on the crimps and use the good fully brazed ferrule ones with the marine grade double wall heatshrink, but otherwise, agreed.

kastein posted:

I don't like those solder seal things at all for anything but temp repairs and definitely not in engine bays, they're low temp solder.

What I mean is something like raychem duraseal. The real deal is expensive AF, you can usually get away with the knockoff poo poo from Amazon and they'll be fine.

These work, they're from one of those annoying autogenerated brand names that spam up Amazon and I hate buying from them, but I'm too broke not to:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07L29DLGN
Only complaint: the heatshrink is a bit hard and stiff. Not a big deal, it works, I used these on most of my J10 builds EFI harness where they fit, including shortening most of the main engine to ECU wiring bundle.

These also work, though I'm a bit displeased with how thin and soft the copper is on the terminals, I'm not sure I'd recommend them for a car engine bay. I have used them on some non critical stuff like aux lighting and dummy light wiring as well as fixed building wiring on a house with success though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B087QTK1Y2

You can get raychem duraseal legit stuff on digikey, mouser, and even at the parts store in small blister packs that will cost you a kidney or your soul per unit. I only buy there when I'm truly hosed and need it right goddamn now.

cursedshitbox posted:

X-posting from my thread cause it easily belongs here.
The "7.3 reliable" 6.7 Powerstroke ate its 4th turbo in under 100k and almost number 5 in the same day.

I pulled the inlet at the storage yard. the wheel is seized solid. Great it's a poo poo turbo or it's not getting oil. Either way, it needs to go away soon.
The hotside of the turbo got so hot it is now pink.


Driving it a few blocks it lost almost a gallon of oil. It deposited it directly into the dpf. It smokes like all hell after about 15 mins of running. Turbo is clearly getting oil.
We had planned to swap the turbo at a campsite some miles away from Nephi, UT. (Nee-phi otherwise they'll judge you if you ever decide to stop there)
That didn't happen so I picked an open cement lot.


One hour fifteen minutes in, the turbo is out.


Compressor.

Turbine.


3 ish hours total, 4 from driving to driving. DPF was packed to north of 150% designed load. It threw a fit and went into immediate regen, smoking out the town. Some locals liked the sight, I abhorred it.
It also threw the 'wrench' icon to take it in for a stationary regen. I like to think it means it's time to fix the 6.7 again.

60 miles later around 10 am pushing 95F, we decide on lunch.
Pull in, walk around. Puddle. Big Puddle. From what looks to be the hot side. God loving Dammit This Mother loving Truck.
The wrench icon was on the nose.
This was right after I noticed it. It was about 3x as big after lunch.


Guy I bought the turbo from I guess decided to remove the second oil galley plug on the turbo's chra. I didn't bother to check because who does that sorta thing. Well it finished rattling out right as I parked the truck before I let it idle for 5 minutes. This engine has no oil pressure gauge. Just an idiot sender that the pcm reports a boolean on. It does not know oil level but it 'guesses' oil level. The dipstick is worse than useless.



2 quarts down. It almost ate its fifth turbo on the same day I put it in. Put the plug back in and other than the gargantuan mess it made of everything, it was fine.

If you own one of these without a warranty, get loving rid of it asap.
At this point I do not think there is anyway to fix this thing and maintain emissions compliance. It is excruciatingly hard on turbos when loaded. I am unwilling to test this theory.

cursedshitbox posted:

1. Diesel particulate filter. It's a ceramic substrate similar to that of your typical automotive catalyst that is extremely effective at capturing small diesel particulates.
It accumulates and needs to be burnt off occasionally. If it can't be burnt off the DPF is removed and sent in to be burned at high enough temperatures to remove the ash.

2. DPF soot accumulation. 0-100% is allowable. 101-200% is overloaded. 200%+ the truck shuts down.
3. See part of answer 1. The system fires the left bank injectors on the exhaust stroke to raise exhaust gas temperatures. This fuel runs through the turbocharger turbine and into the exhaust system helping burn off the accumulated soot.
4. The part highlighted in whatever color is the CHRA. Center Housing Rotating Assembly. It's the bearing/oil/coolant chunk of the turbocharger. The boxes in white are the oil supply and the oil galley plug. When one isn't used the other is plugged. It backed out but didn't fall off the engine. See the second image.


5. Aboslutely! It just returns a boolean. Think of it like an idiot light but with some software logic. Like so.

(oil volume is calculated, not measured. probably on the rate of change of oil temp vs coolant)
6. The dipstick threads into the engine between the block and flywheel. It's a 4 ish foot long tube that inserts next to the rear main. It's hard to get a reading because of such.
7. The compressor/turbine are visibly off center and there is metal scraping damage visible against the respective housings. Also the turbine/compressor should have a millimeter maybe two of space between the wheels and the housing, not 10mm+

Wistful of Dollars posted:

Standard column shifter supremacy

Leperflesh posted:

Ford recalled about 1.5M Pintos to fix the burny tank issue, but over 5M teslas have been sold now, so ratio-wise they're probably about the same level of dying by fire risk

Vincent Van Goatse posted:

kastein posted:

So did the Toyota UZ family of engines, but I give both them and GM a free pass on that because at least they didn't also put the alternator there. I don't think anyone has actually. I hope no one ever does.