Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Atmus
Mar 8, 2002

orange lime posted:

Christ, people. You shovel the snow out from under and around the car first!

I can't imagine the feeling the driver of the truck and/or car owner and/or whoever tied it down must have had when the back of the car just exploded like that.

Truck Driver: Hahaha, my truck is tough!

Car Owner: My mom is going to kill me!

Camera Man: I'm glad I got that on Camera!

Me: They should have used the truck to push the car back into the drive way so he could back out through the gap visible.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002



Sunday, on the way from Aurora Colorado to Cheyenne Wyoming, two of my injection pump's timing gear bolts decided they had enough of life down home and decided to see what the great wide world had in store for them. One of them made it all the way out and is resting under the filler neck and the wire, the other is trapped between the filler neck and gear housing.

The truck still drove to safety (my aunt's house a mile away) but isn't coming back under its own power in this condition. More pictures in a week or two when I bring it home.

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002

CommieGIR posted:

Glad it didn't strand you, that loving sucks! Don't those bolts just hold the filler neck on?

No. The angles involved made it hard to get those pictures, but the bolts that came out were behind the filler neck, and hold the rotating assembly of the injection pump to the timing gear. All that kept the engine going was the possibly one remaining bolt and the alignment stud.

One of the bolts that attaches the filler neck to the housing was still holding on, but the other one let go since the housing split at the bolt hole, and that might be what you were looking at.

I'm about 99% sure I can drive the truck back home by taking the injection pump assembly off of my other F250 and cleaning everything real good and changing the oil, but I'm worried about metal slivers loving up some part of the lower engine. I'll probably do that but have another truck and trailer ready to tow it home.

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002

Das Volk posted:

Pictured: Audi, miserable shitbox. Am I wrong?

No, you were right. Audi's are miserable shitboxes.

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002
At which point it is more fun for everyone else.

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002

kastein posted:

Put the Ford 300 I6 on the list too from what I hear. Hell, most 7-main iron I6s qualify.

From what I heard, the Ford 300I6 would outlive the Jeep 4.0's during the engine destruction part of that whole Cash for Clunkers mess years back.

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002
On the other hand "Hey, free tire!"

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002

veedubfreak posted:

Thank god they don't use salt in Colorado :)

Mag chloride is just as bad, duder :(

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002

CommieGIR posted:

Reminds me of when they did the ULSD switch in diesel, it was a death sentence for older Turbodiesels as it would destroy the rubber seals for the Injection Pump and would necessitate a rebuild within 1,000 miles

The Stanadyne injection pump that IDI diesels Ford used from 83-94 used a fiberglass/plastic bit that would dry out and crumble from too much ULSD. Amusingly, the cure for that was to just add some fraction of an ounce of vegetable oil per gallon of ULSD until you needed a rebuild from normal use, as all the rebuilders use a steel replacement now. Frustratingly, too much vegetable oil would rot the fuel return lines between the injectors, which would cause it to piss fuel (or vegetable oil) all over the engine. Fortunately though, replacement hoses were really easy to find, and vegetable oil is an excellent rustproofer.

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002

Atmus posted:




Sunday, on the way from Aurora Colorado to Cheyenne Wyoming, two of my injection pump's timing gear bolts decided they had enough of life down home and decided to see what the great wide world had in store for them. One of them made it all the way out and is resting under the filler neck and the wire, the other is trapped between the filler neck and gear housing.

The truck still drove to safety (my aunt's house a mile away) but isn't coming back under its own power in this condition. More pictures in a week or two when I bring it home.

Almost three years later, but I finally got the truck fixed. The big hitch in the whole thing was that whoever had the engine apart put one of the gears on wrong.


(not my engine)

You see the gear pictured? How it goes dot to dot and Y to Y? On mine it was the opposite, so when I replaced the whole injection system it came out 180 degrees out of time. The engine will run in this condition, but smoke a lot and produce no power (seriously, it will need a running start to get over the curb into the driveway). The weather was good enough recently that I lifted the injection pump gear housing enough to disengage the gears and turned the crankshaft one complete turn to put it back in time. That and 6 hours on the charger, it started right up with no smoke.

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002
I'm guessing they removed the gear when they did a rebuild or whatever and put the gear back on wrong since the alignment stud(s) still fit that way?

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002

Metal Geir Skogul posted:

B...but the marks are 180 apart. Shouldn't matter?

The problem was that the injection gear (up top) had to come off, and when I put it back on, I put it Y to Y like is shown in the picture. Whichever roguish japester had my engine apart in the past didn't care and put it Y to dot, which is fine if and only if everyone else working on the engine is made aware of this. I was not, so essentially installed the injection pump 180 out, causing it to fire near TDC of the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke. This engine (and possibly all diesels?) will run in this condition, but will give any coal-roller something to think about while producing about 1/20 of the rated power.

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002

cursedshitbox posted:

....its a single key. eh whatever hey it runs! another oilburner in ai :kimchi:

Waste vegetable oil, since hurricane Katrina ;)

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002

digger_smolkin posted:

That's what brought me into the IDI world as well. Don't suppose you're on the Gulf Coast, we could "pool" oil....


The most common mistake people make is taking the gear cover and pump gear off when servicing the IP on these things. This is why you don't do it that way unless you mark the gear first. Joe Sixpack, i.e. the PO on most IDIs, sees those 2 bolts holding the cover on and figures that's the easy way to swap the IP, and another "gutless smoky IDI" story is born...

Aurora, Colorado. Glad I'm one step closer to driving this thing as even after giving most of it away for a couple years, I still have around 500 gallons of oil and I'm running out of space.

I can't entirely blame Joe though. One of the nuts holding the IP to the housing always takes me longer than the whole rest of the operation put together. "1/12 turn with one wrench, 1/12 turn with other wrench, repeat until finger loose" sucks when kneeling on the radiator ridges. Matching Y to Y without removing exposing the gears like the picture wasn't as hard as everyone said it would be, but it wasn't as easy as I thought I could make it, either.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Atmus
Mar 8, 2002
27.9l over 34 cylinders here.

But with substantially less total HP than some of you guys :(

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply