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That fuel pump/filter arrangement looks familiar, but I can't decide if it was from my '88 Volvo 240 or from my '79 280ZX. Or am I wrong on both counts?
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Jul 19, 2011 21:50
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Shaocaholica posted:I wonder how long you can go without an oil change with an otherwise well maintained car running on synthetic under light driving? On some modern cars, 15-20k is really not a stretch. I do 7500 miles in my turbocharged direct-injected four cylinder that's known to be harsh on its oils. With a larger sump and no turbo, the oil life could be considerably lengthened.
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Jul 20, 2011 19:25
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EightBit posted:So, everyone fucks up, but man gotta hate on Ford because going 80+ over 18" bumps caused a repair bill of LESS THAN $1000. Jesus dude get over it. I will say I wonder how many times you could get away with causing the same damage before you utterly scrap the frame - but then again I would hope that anyone who doesn't decide to go slower after the first time they do it would reinforce the thing instead.
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Jul 22, 2011 05:43
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Ignition systems are one of the big reasons modern cars behave so much nicer than old ones. Points systems required frequent replacement (and extremely frequent adjustment), standard coils couldn't put out all that hot of a spark, copper plugs don't last all that long, and long plug wires make those sparks even weaker. God help you if your advance mechanism failed for any reason (vacuum, mechanical, whatever). By comparison, most modern ignition systems really can go the better part of 100k miles without even a second glance, and even at 100k miles, they'll outperform a fresh points setup.
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Jul 25, 2011 17:13
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Motronic posted:YOU SHUT YOUR WHORE MOUTH I put a $100 aftermarket HEI distributor (that $100 included everything from the drive gear through the cap and coil) in my truck to replace the old points setup, ran new 8mm plug wires, fresh plugs, and a non-resistor wire to feed the thing true 12V. Picked up at least two tenths in the quarter mile and 2MPG driving around town (went from averaging 10MPG to averaging 12MPG) If/when I ever pick up another vehicle from that era again, step one is making sure the brakes work 100%, step two is making sure it runs okay as it is, step three is ditching the points in whatever manner is most economical.
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Jul 25, 2011 18:18
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teh jhey posted:How the hell is it that this is one of the most common fix 'er uppers? Are the battery brackets wear items on some cars or something? I don't know why, but all of my cheap old cars - Nissan 280ZX, Volvo 240 and my Ranger - came to me with the original hold downs long since MIA. I tried to put an aftermarket holddown on the Ranger but it doesn't work so well, so it's pretty much going with Option 3. The Volvo also went with Option 3 and it was only a problem once, when I took a bump too hard and it pulled the positive wire out of the clamp, causing the whole thing to shut off.
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Aug 1, 2011 19:20
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dissss posted:Because of the tram tracks. Do the trams stop for nobody down there? We have light rail in Phoenix but it stops at signals so that cars can make lefts.
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Aug 9, 2011 00:59
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Ah, there it is. Light rail here doesn't have to share its track space with caes; there are dedicated left turn lanes all over on either side of the tracks along the way for this reason.
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Aug 9, 2011 15:27
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B4Ctom1 posted:This is actually more common than they make it sound. It dates all the way back to the 700R4. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this (or a similar problem) also possible to induce in the 700R4 family by selecting neutral at high speed? Or am I high?
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Aug 16, 2011 23:41
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What year Ranger? I think on my '98 it's a floating disc with a separate hub/bearing assembly, but on my GMC (and even on the '97 Suburban I learned to drive in) they did use the rotor as part of the hub. It makes it a pain in the rear end to get rotors turned or to replace them since you have to gently caress with the wheel bearing at the same time.
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Aug 17, 2011 22:26
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toplitzin posted:Jesus what did they do? Drive into Irene? Automotive Insanity > Post Pictures of Jesus what did you do?
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Sep 6, 2011 18:43
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Best case scenario - aluminum four-cylinder block? How much would that weigh? And yeah, accurately doing all of this just theoretically would be almost impossible. I can't imagine the first block landed where it was supposed to.
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Oct 4, 2011 20:56
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 Can you just do the world a favor and weld a little tag attached somewhere on the car that might not actually get damaged that says "DO NOT BUY THIS CAR"?
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Nov 27, 2011 19:01
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jamal posted:could you take video of that? Probably looks like this: 
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Dec 15, 2011 06:25
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On one hand, there is zero excuse for Ford to let that car out the door with a driveshaft that's imbalanced at all. It may be "just a V6" but it is a 300hp car, and five years ago if someone had done that in a GT nobody would bat an eye / everyone would be screaming about Ford's poo poo quality. On the other hand, there's equally zero excuse for why he kept his foot in it with an awful racket like that. Presumably he had to feel it too. Way back in the early days of the fourth-gen F-body, a number of six-speed cars got out with imbalanced driveshafts, but you had to get it up over 100 to notice. GM still put out a TSB for it and gave anyone who complained the aluminum 1LE driveshaft.
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Dec 19, 2011 21:26
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There's nothing wrong with the design of the car as a whole, the same car with a V8 will do those speeds without batting an eye, and I doubt the V8 has a significantly different design on its driveshaft - just bigger / better-balanced parts, my guess.
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Dec 19, 2011 21:39
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Cowwan posted:I'm not saying there is something wrong with car as much as there is probably a reason for the limiter, even if it is just to sell v8's. Usually it's just there for the tires. To go back to the fourthgen example, if you didn't tick the "Z-rated tire" option on an LT1 Z28, you got a speed limiter. If you did, the limiter disappeared. Also, apparently the GT does have a significantly different driveshaft design - apparently it gets a two-piece. That seems...dumb. This isn't the '80s where the base Mustang is a Pinto-engined slug, or the '90s-'00s where the V6 is only the providence of high school girls.
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Dec 20, 2011 00:11
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Skyssx posted:The upper ball joints on my mom's Ranger were worse. The right side had a rusted tear in the top metal cap, there was no grease inside, there was a solid 1/2 cm play in all directions. Blagh. I know for a fact most of the front end of my Ranger is grease-free, but it still seems to go down the road well enough. Can't bring myself to spend the ~$400 or so in parts to do a full rebuild.
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Dec 22, 2011 18:49
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Das Volk posted:Laypeople can't drive? Who knows if they can drive, but they sure as hell can't afford the taxes...yet he was mysteriously able to leverage his house to obtain full coverage insurance on it.
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Dec 24, 2011 08:25
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Cakefool posted:Nothing on that ship its worth more than its weight in scrap. Hazchem & safety issues to recover them, remanufacturing / repairing costs before they can be sold. Ding. Insurance paid for all of it already based on its actual value as an engine / cargo / etc, so what's left can only be scrapped. There was another wreck which I forget the name of that had scores of mid-'00s Mazdas on board, including a bunch of Mazda3s and I believe early NCs. Despite the fact that most of them had no actual water damage and had just essentially been parked on a hill, Mazda / their insurance company didn't want even any of the parts from those cars on the road. Even only for track usage. They were all crushed and recycled, along with every other ounce of metal on the ship.
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Jan 23, 2012 18:08
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For the record, that was definitely the one I was thinking of, and that Wired article is outstanding.
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Jan 25, 2012 00:37
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:
The amount of dirt on that makes me think less "fake wheels" and more "running into poo poo".
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Mar 20, 2012 20:18
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revmoo posted:Those wheels are stock for that car so I don't see why they would be fake. Could be stock for a higher trim model?
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Mar 20, 2012 20:58
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Powershift posted:I would assume it its to isolate and cushion failures of the various parts., you don't want a seized alternator damaging your water pump, and you really don't want the entire thing stopping abruptly when 1 part fails. Well, it has been done to a limited extent before - the GenII small-block Chevy (LT1/LT4) had a water pump driven off of the cam. Never heard of a catastrophic failure on the drive side of it, but the fuckers do leak like a sieve...right onto the water-sensitive Optispark! That said, a lot of cars now have electric power steering; it's easier to package, and reduces parasitic losses considerably since now you're only loading the alternator when you're actually turning, instead of loading the belt drive all the time. I think many hybrids run the A/C compressor on electricity as well so that you still get cooling with the engine off. The water pump could be electrified either with more voltage, or maybe direct driven like that LT1, and then your only belt is the alternator.
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Apr 10, 2012 00:59
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chrisgt posted:Do they use a thermostat still? Or just regulate the temperature by controlling the speed of the pump? I bet they still have a thermostat, just so they can circulate coolant through the engine without going through the radiator.
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Apr 10, 2012 15:33
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Sure, and that'd make sense...but I wouldn't want to warm up an engine with absolutely zero coolant movement other than convection alone.
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Apr 10, 2012 18:17
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Yep, and they're loving pieces of poo poo too if you ask me. I don't think a bimetallic spring is capable of generating the force necessary to keep a thermostat either closed or open against the flow from a water pump.
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Apr 14, 2012 07:22
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LobsterboyX posted:
Nah, they never went away completely during that time. My 70's original 350 had one and sometime around 20 odd years ago it just separated from the camshaft. Did similar amounts of damage from what I was told, plus a timing cover from the chain running slack.
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Apr 23, 2012 08:35
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flacoman954 posted:Damned lucky ... I once backed my GMC out of the garage and thought I smelled fuel. Opened the door, got down on my knees, and saw my Walbro 255LPH fuel pump absolutely soaking the driver's side ehxaust pipe right underneath the cab. To this day I don't know how it didn't explode.
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Apr 30, 2012 21:20
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PainterofCrap posted:Christ, I haven't seen one of these since 1987. I had that exact tool, right down to the blue hammered case. Good times My dad still has that exact tool, right down to the blue hammered case. Must've been popular then...or maybe just cheap. Das Volk posted:The ice mode on the Corvette was so bad I drove with the ABS fuse pulled for about 5 months before I lemon'ed it. Hitting a small bump in the road while applying the brakes meant they essentially stopped working. I do believe ice mode ABS or TC was how einTier wrecked his C6 back in the day as well. Cant say I've ever driven my old man's car in anger enough to see for myself (and then wrap it around a light pole)
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May 16, 2012 08:10
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"Oh Mister Good Neighbor, I didn't wreck it last night while drunk, my buddy borrowed it and rolled it this morning!"
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May 17, 2012 00:05
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CommieGIR posted:Could be solved by a 'Release from Liability' form I'm sure any lawyer could draw up. No such thing as a piece of paper with words on it that some lawyer, somewhere, wouldn't try to claim was insufficient to protect the poor consumer from using some random piece of hardware that clearly was the sole cause of FIERY DEATH. It's the same reason all of the Mazdas on the Cougar Ace were scrapped, right on down to the lug nuts.
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May 29, 2012 01:56
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Why would a car company worry about parting or selling a single car which could have questionable legal status, when they can just scrap it and be done with it? On the budget sheets of a large automaker, a single vehicle is probably within margin of error.
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May 29, 2012 04:20
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The best part is how it takes a sec to scroll down... "Okay we've got a head, a blo....oh"
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Jun 15, 2012 17:31
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CommieGIR posted:Headgasket more than likely, a lot of tuners do all the performance parts but then forget to do engine infrastructure like headbolts, proper performance headgaskets, and connecting rods. Simple. Adding stronger head or connecting rod bolts doesn't directly make more horsepower, even if they are actually necessary for the engine to survive at the new power level.
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Jun 17, 2012 18:36
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Splizwarf posted:You make it sound like this isn't how repairs are done everywhere else. That car would've been scrapped anywhere else.
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Jun 28, 2012 20:56
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No poo poo, bodywork / panels / painting in the US is not cheap. The fender-bender (literally) in my Miata ran about $2k to repair and that couldn't have amounted to much more than a new fender, headlight, some plastic clips, and a tie rod or something similar. Nothing needed to be welded and only the fender needed to be painted.
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Jun 28, 2012 23:53
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MadScientistWorking posted:In theory you can fix that because it wasn't as horrible as you think it was. Those pieces generally are replaceable. You'd need a new armature and brushes, and depending on the cost of those parts / condition on the case and bearings of the motor, it may just be cheaper to replace the entire motor.
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Jul 2, 2012 19:08
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Godholio posted:My first question is how is he going to handle throttle inputs to two vastly different engines? I'd just run them both as cables, and perhaps put a lever on one of them so that the same amount of pedal travel gets you to 100% throttle on each engine. The wildly varying power levels shouldn't be "that" different than a car with a 30/60 rearward bias on AWD.
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Jul 19, 2012 23:52
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Ballcock posted:Wouldn't the gear ratios also be different? So? Why would it matter if the front engine is doing 3000RPM in third gear and the rear is doing 4000RPM in second gear, if that's what matches up to the same forward speed? It's not like he's actually hooking these things up with a transfer case.
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Jul 20, 2012 00:42
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