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I've pulled apart a couple of old inline sixes that were bent. Generally, the front of the block sags down in front of the engine mounts. It's not really noticeable until you strip it down and straight edge it though.
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Nov 1, 2009 20:58
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Hello, shock loads! This used to be a carrier cap. There may also be some ring and a little pinion mixed in to taste.
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Nov 1, 2009 21:25
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A0zqtlIiS4E There were pictures of the aftermath floating around, I think. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XI_gNQLmTM0 Are you joking? Are you joking? DELETED fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Nov 6, 2009 |
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Nov 6, 2009 01:48
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teh jhey posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=et-g4P8SbJQ Hahaha, I love the guy in the background. E: Holy poo poo there are multiple angles DELETED fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Nov 6, 2009 |
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Nov 6, 2009 02:22
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ab0z posted:Probably these pictures are just geared toward a different crowd. What a mesh
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Nov 21, 2009 06:33
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Bingo. Some sort of backfire through the intakes because it was running nitrous (can't remember the specifics) that blew the airbox out and the tank off. Nitrous pooling, maybe. If you're running a wet kit and hit the juice at low RPMs, the engine can't process the intake charge, which means that raw fuel/nitrous pools up in your intake runners, which results in a nice kaboom https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Twb4I8_-OU
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Nov 24, 2009 17:42
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My rings are shot and my carb is out of adjustment. I have another carb sitting around I can rebuild, but I'm lazy. Click here for the full 1879x1056 image.
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Apr 19, 2010 13:57
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Yup, if they stay in long enough it will start to turn into ash but they usually foul to the point of not working before then. I have to pull and clean them every few hundred miles, I'm pretty much just seeing how long an engine can run like that at this point. Being an AMC 258, I'm not holding my breath.
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Apr 19, 2010 19:33
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oxbrain posted:Run hotter plugs. That's my plan next time I get paid, but I'm making these plugs last a little while at least. The biggest problem areas are when you take too long cranking it, and if it idles too long. I would need one of those anti-foul for each cylinder. A few are worse than the others, but they're all bad. The carb running rich doesn't help but my hands are tied there, I have a million projects going on at once and I'd rather this thing runs poorly instead of not running at all.
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Apr 20, 2010 14:02
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IOwnCalculus posted:If you're fouling plugs that quickly, "performance" is defined by "is it running". Yeah, by that point having optimum ignition in the combustion chamber is a drop in the bucket. It's been knocking for thousands of miles now, which makes me think it's just pistons slapping around in the bores instead of a bad rod. Doesn't matter to me, as long as it goes down the road for a while longer. I'll try and get pics once I finally tear it apart. I'll have to get some mics and stuff so I can see just how hilariously out of spec this engine is. Maybe I'll put my protective case on my camera and take video of the exhaust pipe during a cold start later 
DELETED fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Apr 20, 2010 |
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Apr 20, 2010 19:01
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anonumos posted:You are going to have to explain this further. Semis don't usually jump out at you; rig jockies aren't exactly mobile and tend to be very good about staying in their own lanes. I knew a driver who was hauling a double, a 45' with a 28' pup trailer on the back, and had it jump out... and then it kept going. The wind caught it, the pup wasn't fully loaded so it lifted and gained enough momentum to yank the big trailer sideways and he went flying like something from 'Twister'. He said he felt the truck shake, looked in his mirror and saw the pup as it was drifting across the left lane. He had enough time to think "Oh sh" before the maiden flight of his experimental aircraft. Another driver I knew was pulling 2 28' trailers and half of the roof from the back trailer sheared off at some point. He didn't even know until he got to his destination and some lucky unloaders got a skylight for a bit. There were pictures floating around but I broke the phone they were on long ago. DELETED fucked around with this message at 01:17 on May 5, 2010 |
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May 5, 2010 01:11
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On the opposite end of the spectrum from giant rear end train engines exploding, we have this 5.5hp Briggs & Stratton, which shot a rod through the side of the crankcase. Click here for the full 960x720 image.
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May 18, 2010 05:32
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LloydDobler posted:It has relatively large intermittent torsional loads due to opening and closing the valves though. I'd guess it was a flaw in the metal that caused that one to break, unless it's on an engine that is notorious for cam snap failures. Also, if you have a journal larger than the rest, then that can cause it flex a bit as it rotates since it doesn't have the proper support in that area.
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Jul 8, 2010 20:36
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Hopefully I can get pics later, but my friends just had a good one. A few months back they lost control and slid the front passenger wheel into the curb. I was going to follow them to a shop tonight to get it fixed. As they were backing out of the driveway, there was a loud pop, the wheel lurched forward and broke the plastic cladding around the wheel well. Turns out the A arm was cracked and snapped when my friend turned the wheel at the end of the driveway. The arm snapped and started rotating away from the fram so it yanked the axle out and shot lovely yellow grease all over everything. The stance of the Element is hilarious when the front wheel is several inches forward.
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Jul 9, 2010 14:18
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Haha, reminds me of over-revving in Need For Speed. WHEEEEEEEEEEE-brrrrrclickclunkclangpingping
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Aug 11, 2010 20:32
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It's very sudden, let me see if I can find the video E: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WJVHtF8GwI
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Aug 22, 2010 17:00
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slidebite posted:My guess is it wasn't the engine itself that overheated, it was something close to the engine that overheated due to lack of airflow and revving the piss out of it for an hour. Several years ago, a guy across the street from my high school had a heart attack while warming up his car. His foot ended up holding down the gas pedal and the engine revved until something caught on fire. Someone finally noticed all the smoke and flames and went over to investigate after about 30-45 minutes of constant revving.
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Jan 13, 2011 16:23
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"Hey man, my brakes are making some noise. Do you think you could check them out?" 
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Apr 29, 2011 21:43
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The passenger side rotor was almost new, and the pads in decent shape so there was still some braking power, it just pulled toward that side when you braked. I think the pads were gone by the time the rotor wore through so it was just metal on the outside. The sound was pretty bad, like a freight train.
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Apr 30, 2011 00:02
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"Yeah, I had a Dodge once. Terrible gas mileage, no power, and it smelled funny anytime I drove it"
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May 2, 2011 07:13
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:no but then there was something seriously wrong with mine because it would not idle normally. it just revved to high heaven. Those usually have an air vane governor, so the air being pushed by the flywheel pushes on a little arm connected to the carb. The faster the engine goes, the more it pushes the air vane so it feeds less fuel and keeps the RPMs stable and limited. If they get sticky or gunked up then the engine will rev wildly or stall under load.
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May 22, 2011 00:36
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In high school, I took an engine rebuilding class. It was mostly to cheese a credit since I had already rebuilt engines and all that good stuff long before then so I was more or less a teacher's aide. Anyway, this kid was working on a 350 and it was almost ready to run. All we had to to was fill the oilpan, prime the system and stab the distributor. 5 quarts of oil goes in, I show him how to line up and get into the oil pump. He gets on the drill and starts priming. About that time, a Loony Toons-esque oil gusher erupts from the end of the block, near the distributor if I remember correctly. Turns out he forgot one of the galley plugs and it turned into a high pressure stream of oil that doused a nice area of the shop. I can only imagine how fun that would have been if we hadn't primed it first.
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Jun 29, 2011 05:28
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Joe Mama posted:Microorganisms? Stuff can grow in diesel if there's some water in there.
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Jul 1, 2011 04:33
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KozmoNaut posted:I vote yes, we need a jerry-rigging/redneck repair/git-r-dun thread. I've heard of people using ratchet straps to replace the top "dog bone" engine mounts on '90s era GM cars.
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Jul 2, 2011 19:08
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Front drum brakes are fun when they get wet
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Jul 11, 2011 00:16
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b0nes posted:Change your BMW's oil regularly, every 19K miles. Mmmm, Bavarian chocolate
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Jul 20, 2011 14:11
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Motronic posted:My point is that I believe there is a significant amount of force between the frame bending and anything else breaking. The frame really is ridiculously weak in the problem aream and if it weren't you could do a lot more before you ran into problems. B-b-but we put our special this-poo poo-doesn't-really-work-but-it-will-if-we-half-rear end-it part on the rear end (sort of like using flimsy control arms and bushings to make up for the fact that the Fox 4-link rear is poorly designed)!
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Jul 21, 2011 22:06
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 "It's actually had diarrhea!"
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Aug 1, 2011 18:24
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Imagine something just like this but different https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMt2JheBSls
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Aug 29, 2011 05:45
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some texas redneck posted:Did they leave it for a month or some poo poo? It actually doesn't take all that long for engines to rust like that. When I took an engine rebuilding class, this point was stressed after a student didn't oil their block after putting in the washer. The next day every machined surface on the block had rusted over.
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Sep 14, 2011 03:49
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The Scientist posted:How fast would this engine have been revving to have caused this? Also, you guys gonna sleeve that one cylinder? Even at idle, there is an enormous amount of force being transferred through an engine. Doesn't take a lot for hydrolocking to wreck an engine.
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Sep 15, 2011 07:11
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Cakefool posted:Is there a better way to clean your brakes than brake cleaner? Possibly, but why not use brake cleaner? Gas works pretty good, it's not exactly safe or healthy though
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Sep 17, 2011 19:44
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The Scientist posted:Are we talking about like human greasy person grease or like the poo poo you invariably get your arms and hands covered in when doing anything to a car? New brake rotors come coated in a grease used to prevent them from rusting while in shipping and storage. Now that I think about it, the stuff seems a lot like cosmolene used to preserve old surplus guns for storage. You might be able to just melt it off with a heat gun or even a blow dryer if that's the case.
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Sep 17, 2011 21:46
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Beach Bum posted:Brake cleaner should be the only solvent laying around. It's also the only wasp killer
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Sep 17, 2011 22:35
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Coasterphreak posted:We have a winner! Protip: Brake cleaner destroys nitrile gloves. The typical blue gloves shrivel up and look like they have goosebumps before falling apart. DELETED fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Sep 19, 2011 |
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Sep 19, 2011 23:04
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EightBit posted:What about nitrile gloves? Scratch that, I meant nitrile.
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Sep 19, 2011 23:18
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Godholio posted:Whatever the typical spray brake cleaner is, it'll make the typical blue nitrile gloves go all pruny, then they just fall apart under the slightest pressure. Kleen-All solvent does the same thing. Yeah, maybe the purple ones are different or higher quality but the blue ones can't handle good old non-chlorinated Brakleen and similar brake cleaners. I did get some Gunk brake cleaner once. That stuff sucks, it doesn't smell like brake cleaner should and seems to only mildly inconvenience wasps. I will say that ATF is a drat good cleaner for metal parts though.
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Sep 20, 2011 21:56
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My friend had an explorer with a bad thermostat. He was about to move cross country and was getting a new car so he just kept driving it. It sounded like a diesel and smelled like a welding shop driving down the road but it kept going for a few days.
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Sep 24, 2011 19:18
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Sponge! posted:Dear lord wtf am I doing wrong?! These only have like 20K on them. How many miles are on the engine? Looks like sludge/ash buildup from burning oil.
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Nov 16, 2011 16:58
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kastein posted:Basically. Through advanced differential rust examination (the snowplow bracketry is around 60% as rusty as the rest of the truck) I have determined that it was a plow truck for about the last ten years, which means only being driven on wet, salty, sloppy roads and beat to hell plowing bumpy driveways, then put away still covered in salty slush and left til the next storm, which often means a few weeks or... the entire summer and fall, sitting there with salt and sand packed into every crevice, attracting humidity to the delicious bare metal. Landscaping trucks get beat to hell. When it wasn't covered in corrosive road sludge in the winter, it was probably humping dirt, mulch, sod, grass clippings and other slightly damp stuff that finds it's way into everything. It also could have had bags of ice melt or a sand/salt spreader in the back for winter. Hell, when I was doing that gig, I only hosed the back of my lawn truck out 1 time over the course of a summer because it sat full of clippings for several days and the nasty decomposing grass goo was all over the inside and bottom of the bed. In fact, we had a Dodge just like that, and it was showing early signs of the same frame rot.
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Apr 23, 2012 17:36
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