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More on G700 and battery life: I think a lot of the bad rap the mouse gets for this is actually from the display being pretty inaccurate. It's like the inverse of cell phone battery displays that stay at full forever and then instantly drop to zero -- it goes really quickly from three to one, then hangs there for quite a while before giving out. I'd almost think that the voltage sensor was still calibrated for 1.5v alkalines instead of 1.2v nimhs. Also, the battery they ship with is a Sanyo Eneloop. A quality battery, but low self-discharge nimh has way less capacity and the LSD feature doesn't really do much good for this mouse. I swapped it for a 2700mAh powerex (vs the 1900mAh eneloop) and got improved life. I use the "power saver" mode and 125hz sampling for normal windows stuff; if I don't play games for a few days and remember to turn it off at night, I can go 4 or 5 days on a charge. My previous mouse was a Logitech MX620 that could go for a month between swaps, so the change was a bit of a shock. But that also used 2 batteries instead of one, so it was heavier. The g700 is unquestionably short compared to many wireless mice, but with the charge cable right there I really don't think it's a huge deal. If you can remember to plug it in every other night it isn't a problem. On LGS software: Personally I think it's the bees knees, way better than Setpoint. But if you hate it, the mouse can use on-board profiles instead. So you can use the software one time to set stuff up and then never touch it again.
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Oct 8, 2013 15:23
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NihilCredo posted:When they reference, and link, sensor models and product IDs associated with specific revisions or firmwares? Why, yes, I do proceed to assume that they have spent more time (Though I will note if you are a professional gamer who earns a living playing video games, you will probably not have a choice in the matter as they all get sponsored by various gamer gear companies and have to use their product. Funny how all the pro guys sponsored by Steelseries don't suddenly suck because they aren't using a GOD TIER mouse.) ... I have a cat. The way pretty much all optical mice these days are constructed, they can get a cat hair caught in the recess where the sensor is. When that happens it messes up the tracking and OH MY GOD MY KILLSTREAK gently caress YOU CAT. Gotta send my cat off to the shelter to get the big needle, can't have anything loving up my leet gaming skillz.
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Oct 9, 2013 14:49
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Agreed posted:The inherent acceleration is part of the aforementioned angle-snapping or path correction implemented by the sensor manufacturer. But it's a good read if you REALLY want to know the poo poo out of mouse FAQs. Especially in an FPS, I'd challenge that to be noticeable, because aiming in an FPS is a feedback system. Maybe in an RTS or other games which have static elements of UI that are always in the same place, someone could get so used to absolute distances that they want a zero-acceleration mouse. But in that case they could also never change the resolution they play at, ever.
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Oct 10, 2013 05:08
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Zotix posted:I just found out angle snapping. Does the g500 come with this? Not the s variant. And does it need the setpoint software to have this feature? I've never noticed it until this point and I'd like to make sure that it's not on. I just installed windows 8.1 the other day, but I didn't install the setpoint software. Pretty sure all the G mice either have no angle snapping or default to off. My g700 has an option in the software to turn it on, not sure if its a persistent hardware switch or software.
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Oct 27, 2013 15:11
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If you want to get even more surgical you can open up the microswitches themselves to put a little bend back in the leaf spring when it loses some of it's clickyness. Decent pictorial here. You can only do that on the left & right buttons, but if you have an out-of-warranty mouse it's a good fix for a weak button. I had an mx620 that I used for years and years that I did this operation to twice, because like your G7 it was discontinued but I really loved. It can really make a 4 year old mouse feel almost new again with nice firm clicks.
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Nov 5, 2013 21:07
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ijyt posted:So, what are the verdicts on the top wireless mice (wireless because I'm tired of kinking, dying and wires in general)? My first port of call was the Razer Mamba, because of the overall design of the mouse seeming to be the most comfortable, but then the Logitech G602 seems to boast ridiculous battery life with just two AA's. How is it getting 250 hours out of that? The 602 likely gets a lot of that long battery life with aggressive power saving. One thing I notice about my g700 is that even in "power save" mode it doesn't have any noticeable lag when I first touch it after being afk. Other logitech wireless mice I've used go into a sleep state where they took a half second to wake up. quote:Are there any mice that use Bluetooth 4.0, or would benefit from it? The RAT M seems to but that poo poo looks tiny. Choosing mice is confusing. Mastigophoran posted:Mice really are not designed to be user serviceable
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Nov 6, 2013 01:20
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I think the new large teflon pads on recent gaming mice are way more vulnerable to that trapped grit problem than the old small feet were. I noticed the exact same thing when I changed to a g700 from a mx620, the feet are the only difference I can think of. I found a cloth mat helps a lot, if you're currently using a hard surface as I was.
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Nov 8, 2013 00:51
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Goo posted:The tradeoff is that the small surface area of the smaller feet makes their glue more prone to failing (and therefore the feet fall off) and the feet overall more prone to wearing out too quickly. We ship our gaming mice with feet that have a combined surface area that delivers 250+ km of movement on a wood veneer desk with around one kilo of force pushing down on the top of the mouse. Re the other post correcting my wrong guesses about the 602 & bluetooth, very interesting. I never would have guessed that the sensors would have that much difference in power draw. Is it the laser diode, or all in the camera & image processor?
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Nov 8, 2013 06:32
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Queen Elizatits posted:This is my first time venturing into this thread and it was to ask about this exact issue. So this is a known problem with Logitech mice then? quote:It's happened to both of my G500s. I'm guessing there's no easy fix if you had to buy a new mouse? Re-bending the spring is only a good idea if the the click is mushy, or the button feels like it's not returning all the way. The leaf spring is delicate, so that operation can break it.
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Nov 23, 2013 17:33
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codo27 posted:Anyways, suggestions please. Even if its Logitech. The g602 has a lot of good feedback in this thread. That and the g700 are the two easy choices for wireless mice at reasonable prices, but the g700 is probably not a good option for you if wires are a problem.
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Jan 17, 2014 18:08
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Zigmidge posted:That's the games fault, not the mouse. Source games, among others, are able to detect those buttons as mouse buttons. Can't help you with the wheel though, Logitech never learned how to make a good clicky mouse wheel ever. The thing is that depending on which API a game is getting mouse input from, there are no buttons above 5. So logitech is IMO doing the right thing by sending out the mice with buttons set for 1-5 only and non-input functions like dpi, battery level, etc on the rest. Otherwise people would run into situations where one game would work and another would not -- this way at least it's a consistent "use setpoint to assign keyboard input". On the mousewheel, I opened up my previous logitech mice to bend a little more tension into their ratchet mechanism. My 700 feels about the same as that, so I guess they've gotten a little better. Still not great if you like a wheel with a lot of ratcheting force to it.
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Jan 19, 2014 19:44
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Man I thought about asking if he had switched to free-spin and thought, naaaaah couldn't be. GISing some box images, the double-action mouse wheel is way less prominently called out than on the old g700. So he's not completely oblivious. Zigmidge posted:Yeah so was I but I'm probably mistaken nonetheless. I just went into a few games and HL2 and CS:GO both recognize G6 and G7 without any change while most others need simulated keypresses (I usually bind , . ; ' [ ]). I did have LGS running for all of those though and G8-11 still all need simulated keypresses regardless of the application.
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Jan 19, 2014 22:35
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Inspector_666 posted:I wish the normal G700 was on sale
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Jan 20, 2014 18:13
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Hey Goo, you've posted before about Logitech's back and forth product design with the rubberized plastics, and the way they go all manky with age. If I have some gear with that problem, is there anything that can be done about that? Like a chemical or cleaning mix that can remove the greasy feeling or even just strip the stuff entirely?Apparition posted:What are your guys' thoughts on the Steelseries brand of mice?
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Jan 29, 2014 23:50
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Soopafly posted:Does anyone have experience disassembling a Logitech MX Revolution? Or know if you can get parts anywhere? I've had one for 4 years now and it's been great, but the left-click is sketchy now and won't let me click-and-drag at times. Single clicks work fine, but any click and hold longer than a half second or so gets released.
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Feb 11, 2014 18:20
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I have only used logitech mice for the past 12 years so I can't compare vs different brands, but mine all have the microswitch contact problem after a while. Generally after 3 years, but I think one might have been just inside warranty period. I didn't know about the generous get-a-new-mouse warranty at the time so I just fixed it myself. I've gotten pretty good at taking apart the microswitch and cleaning the contacts / putting more spring into the leaf. I feel like mice have possibly make a tradeoff for better click feel at the expense of durability. Before I switched to logitech I had the Intellimouse 3.0 and that thing's switches never died. But it was pretty mushy when compared to today's mice. Anyways repairing the microswitch is actually not difficult if you have good eyes, and the only tools needed are a screwdriver and an xacto knife. Try it out if you have a mouse with lovely clicks that's out of warranty. My experience has been that it's an easy way to get another year or two out of a mouse.
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Aug 25, 2018 00:13
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Arivia posted:Is contact cleaner different from just general windex or something? Wondering if it's worth trying to fix my Razer Naga instead of buying another mouse. Yeah, not at all the same as windex. You can get it at hardware or auto stores. Specifically electrical contact cleaner. It's in an aerosol can and works like WD-40, where you can squirt it from the outside and it will evaporate itself off. Regular rubbing alcohol on a q-tip works great, but you have to open up the switch to do that. Klyith fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Aug 29, 2018 |
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Aug 29, 2018 00:36
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Fame Douglas posted:Maybe you could try some Razer gaming chewing gum? Or you could try a Razer leak of all your PII! https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2020/09/100000-razer-users-data-leaked-due-to-misconfigured-elasticsearch/ (The biggest fault here is not that they left their database open to the public, but that they gave a security researcher doing responsible disclosure the runaround for three weeks on the easiest possible issue to solve.)
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Sep 14, 2020 19:14
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Minorkos posted:I haven't tried this mouse specifically, and this comes down to personal preference, but I think these heavy, tall mice are kinda awful for hand pain and they promote a bad kind of grip. I don't think you should ever be "squeezing" your mouse when you grip it. What generally works for me is having my hand in its resting position, then laying it on the mouse and lightly gripping it mostly from the sides and top with the top half of my palm and my fingers. That way I barely even have to grip my mouse to move it, and it's more like I'm just moving my hand around. I don't think the lower half of your palm should even be a point of grip on your mouse. Most of these ergo mice don't even let you do that because they have these big rear end humps, and they instead drive you more towards some kind of claw grip, hence why I prefer low-profile, lightweight mice now. That said, that's just where I've landed personally in terms of grip so it may not work for everyone. As a long-term devotee of the logitech asymmetrical blob style, the extreme humps of their work-style mice like the MX Master is not good for gaming, but you're also super mis-reading how they work in practice. You aren't really squeezing them with the full palm, but using the thumb and the upper palm, on the bottoms of your finger joints. They're big mice but it's not a brick. You don't have to grip hard to move them around. The ergo advantage is that you aren't moving your hand or wrist, because that's bad for you. The way the shape tilts your hand & wrist over from horizontal means that your arm tends to elevate, because the wrist hinge isn't aligned to the table anymore. Letting your arm get lazy doesn't make your hand tilt up, it makes your hand slide down and rest on its side. Again, it keeps the wrist in a more neutral position. And the giant thumb indent isn't because they weigh 5 pounds and need more grip, it's to encourage input from the thumb for fine movement control. If you game with them -- particularly in low sensitivity with large motions, playing action games -- then you do start tightening your grip harder just from intensity and that isn't great. A long time ago I had a MX1000 which had the big hump, and I did get hand strain from lots of gaming. And that was when I was in my 20s! Thus why all their modern gaming mice are a compromise shape that has some of those features without being as extreme as a MX Master. If you like the flat mouse that's fine. And if you can use a flat mouse and keep your arm lifted all the time such that your wrist is neutral, that's great but you're in the minority. Oldschool mouse shapes like the Viper are generally terrible for ergonomics because your arm is on the table and your wrist is angled. Good posture & a good desk setup can correct that, but otherwise it's carpal city. The fact that it's really lightweight is nice for short-term finger strain, but long-term tendonitis and carpals isn't solved by a light mouse. However I can't give any major recommendations to Logi's current gaming mice because I still have a G700. In fact I've got two of them -- I took one look at the "lightspeed" lineup and immediately bought one of the last few G700s on amazon as they were being discontinued.
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Nov 21, 2020 21:21
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ijyt posted:Actually does anyone know if those mats are machine washable? I got a cheapo Aukey one from Amazon and while its nice, it does tend to attract dust and not want to let go. I wouldn't machine wash any mousemat, that would be very tough on the adhesive that holds the mousing surface to the neoprene. wash mousepads in the sink with a bit of dishsoap and a scrubby sponge, that works fine for both fabric surfaces and hard ones. fabric surface pads like a qck take a little bit to dry off, so if you have a glass desk or something that sucks to mouse on, wait until evening so it can dry overnight.
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Nov 22, 2020 19:18
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Minorkos posted:I guess that makes sense, although I'm not sure how effective that is in practice. I did put a bit of a disclaimer how flat mice are a personal preference for me, and it's likely my understanding of ergo mice has been somewhat ruined by using one that's too big for me for the past 3 years or so. That said, for now I like having my entire hand, forearm and fingers perfectly level. I did get an adjustable desk and set it quite low to make sure I can maintain these ergonomics. I would assume a lighter and smaller mouse might help you maintain "good form" more easily, and thus keep long-term problems away since you don't need to use nearly as much force to manipulate it, but I don't know. Although carpal tunnel hasn't been a problem for me yet, but I can't say it never will either, so I can't really argue that point in any way. An adjustable desk / ergonomically correct overall body position is a way bigger deal than mouse shape for sure. In fact I think a lot of ergo keyboard & mouse designs are about salvaging good ergo from bad desks. The ergo blob shape don't work for everyone, and if they pushed you into a tight claw grip that's bad and you shouldn't go back. But for the people it do work for, it helps set the hand in a good position and I wanted to explain how that worked. Your post, despite the personal disclaimer, was very definite about them forcing a claw grip when that isn't what they're supposed to do. I think size & weight also don't strictly correlate to anything ergonomically, but have a lot of personal preference impact. Even a heavy mouse is not much force to push around if you have a proper mousepad. And the other thing is that cord vs wireless is easily as big a factor to movement resistance. I've loved wireless mice since they first became good enough to really use, because the asymmetrical tug of mouse cord is more bothersome to me. (However, the weight does tend to make me set DPI/sensitivity high enough that I don't have as frequent liftoffs. Not very pro gamer.)
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Nov 23, 2020 17:56
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crepeface posted:poo poo, they still haven't made a replacement? Mine is starting to "double click" and it's the perfect balance of extra buttons without GAMING LEDS. The G604 is the closest to the old G700, but it's not quite the same. However, you're in luck! I took pictures the last time I fixed my mouse button contacts so I could write a tutorial, then never posted it. So here is how you can make your mouse last for many many years. You will need: small screwdriver, xacto knife, scotch tape, and rubbing alcohol or electric contact cleaner We begin, as all good stories, in medias res:  Notes on opening up mice: 1. the blade is useful to start peeling the teflon pad, you can kinda slip it under and lever up the edge. 2. logitech mice with the mechanical wheel switch for free-spin should be switched to the free-spin mode before pulling the top shell 3. mice with extra buttons probably have a cable connecting the top shell to the main board optional but helpful is a non-stick thing to put the teflon pads on (I've got a bit of label sticker paper there) Opening the microswitch:   Carefully pop one of the sides over the latch, and remove the top. Don't lose the tiny white plastic button bit. Remove the leaf spring bit from the switch:  A thing I like to do is have a loop of scotch tape to hold onto these tiny bits.  Clean the contacts:  Also clean the contact area of the leaf spring, gently. The contact part is that bump on the right in the previous pic. Optional step not pictured: if your mouse button is feeling mushy, you can restore a firm click by straightening the curved part of the leaf spring a little bit. That's what pushes back on the button. Very carefully! You're not flattening it, just making it a little less curved. Now hook the leaf spring back onto the switch. This is the annoying part. I don't have a good method to tell you, it just takes me a few minutes of fiddling and eyestrain every time. Maybe tweezers would help? The trick to putting the switch shell back on:  a bit of scotch tape to hold the button bit in place as you put it together. Tada! Now put the rest of your mouse back together, don't forget to plug the cables for the top shell back in.
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Nov 25, 2020 17:13
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NihilCredo posted:I went G700s -> G604 and it's an upgrade in just about every way. The only sidegrade is that two of the top buttons turn into thumb button #5 and #6 - I prefer this layout as it's better for gaming, but YMMV. You get a better scrollwheel with a coating that doesn't wear off, and massively improved battery life with replaceable batteries. Like, if both my 700s died I'd get a 604, but I prefer the button layout and other features of the 700 so I'm gonna keep using mine until they're worn out. It's also worth noting that the 604 is pretty recent and previous models were quite different & not as good. Also when the lightspeed stuff came out it was hella expensive because they doing all wireless charging stuff, which was the main reason I bought one of the last cheap 700s. As for the 700 itself, it has some big flaws but I like it. I don't have any problem with the rubber on the scrollwheel wearing off, but the battery life is real. It doesn't bother me though -- I find the integrated charging makes up for it. I have no trouble remembering to plug it in at the end of the day, and using a desktop I always have USB power available. The main thing is that it chews through the battery fast enough that you actually run into the battery's charge cycle life, particularly on LSD NIMH (ie eneloops). So you need to replace the battery every so often, 9 months to a year. The fact that G-hub is worse than LGS is really disappointing, because it's not like LGS was perfect. Blue Footed Booby posted:Pro tip: do any fine tweezer work in an uncarpeted and relatively picked-up room. Tweezers have a magical ability to launch things across the room in ways that don't seem possible, and the carpet monster is always hungry. One of the reasons to get a GN Modmat or something like it is that the soft surface absorbs some bounce. Dropping a tiny screw or part, it's got a better chance to stay on the table rather than ricochet ten feet away. But really, the most important tool is patience.
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Nov 25, 2020 21:05
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Rinkles posted:e:also, anything to for certain avoid when buying a mouse mat? I dunno if anyone even makes pads like this anymore, but a long time ago I had a pad that was a hard surface with prominent texture, and over time it ate the mouse teflon. Everything started out great because the texture reduced the contact area, so between that and being hard it had great mix of low friction and quick stop. But after half a year the teflon pads were worn down and it sucked. If you're getting a pad with a fabric surface, get stitched edges if you're getting anything pricey. I have one of the Artisan pads that got hyped a number of years ago. I like the surface a lot, but the fabric started separating on the wrist edge. On a cheap $15 pad that's like, ok throw it out and get a new one. But on a $40 pad it sucks. I cut back the edge a bit and got out needle & thread to stitch it myself. (I see that artisan has stitched edges on their pads now. So I can recommend them if you're ok with a more expensive pad, and can navigate their extremely confusing array of product options. Aside from the edge, mine has held up really well. After over 4 years of use, it's got enough wear to have a noticeable change in friction between the center & side, but not so much that it feels bad to use. I'll probably get another one soon.) orcane posted:Oh this is great, I'll consider it the next time my OG G700 develops double clicking. Note to all that this refurbish method is good for all mice with that switch type!
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Nov 30, 2020 20:58
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Rinkles posted:Heh, the G502 has 3 distinct ways of pressing the scroll wheel, each with a programable function. I guess that's cool, but I worry about the longevity. The side-to-side wheel thing? Logitech mice have had that for a while now, I don't think it has any lifespan drawbacks. It's a simple pivot that holds the rest of the mousewheel parts. IMO the rachet-vs-freespin switch part is much more complex mechanism. The only downside is that all the mechanical gubbins make it harder to clean the mousewheel, if you have crud that makes the sensor go haywire or accumulated finger grime that you want to scrub off. Simple wheels you can generally pop the wheel right out and clean it with soap and water. Logi mice with complicated wheels are more difficult.
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Dec 1, 2020 02:46
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Rinkles posted:[*]This is my first mouse with a metal wheel. I don't know if I like it. It's like both modes aren't great for normal use. The scroll is either too heavy (I have poo poo hands), or too loose (which I get has its uses). The scroll wheel button click is a bit heavier than I'd prefer, but at least it's consistent. As in how much resistance there is to rolling one "click" of the wheel? That will probably loosen up after a bit if you keep it in ratchet mode rather than freespin. Those are just a spring pushing against a bunch of detents on the inside of the wheel, so the resistance is all from the spring force. Also the mechanism for that is plastic on plastic. (Also the wheel ratchet spring is another thing that can be fixed by taking a mouse apart -- I like a very firm scroll click, so I've done the opposite and added more spring tension to old mice that started to feel loose to me.) Battery rattle sucks, but that should be very easy to stop with a wedge of folded-up paper.
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Dec 13, 2020 17:24
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pmchem posted:My beloved G403 (wired, optical sensor) has begun double-clicking when I'm actually single clicking. pictorial guide to opening & cleaning button contacts it's not exactly simple, but it's not difficult for anyone with basic tools. far easier than soldering a new switch if you've never soldered anything before.
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Dec 14, 2020 15:34
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Rinkles posted:Does anyone turn off their mice when they're not using them, or do mice use little enough energy in standby that it's not a concern? I turn mine off because the G700 eats batteries like snacks, but also because it has enough sensitivity that walking by my desk occasionally vibrates it into turning the monitor back on. And it's not like I have the DPI set super-high so I guess even 1/4th of a pixel move will stop the screen saver.
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Dec 16, 2020 15:45
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Anti-Hero posted:Neat. The advantage of wireless is "no wire". If you've never used a wireless mouse for extended time, it's hard to put just how much the lack of wire changes the feel. I used to have a homemade mouse bungee type cord keeper way back when, and there's no comparison. The expensive logitechs have wireless charging & come with mousemats that are chargers, but I don't really get what the problem with plugging in to charge every once in a while is. I plug in my mouse at night, I plug in my phone at night, I plug in my wireless headphones once a week or so. That's how most wireless things are.
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Dec 19, 2020 21:29
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I generally don't think mouse button issues are likely to be dust, between the mouse shell being some protection and the switch itself having fairly minimal gaps.GreatGreen posted:I don't know how much time and attention I can devote to dismantling the thing and cleaning contacts and stuff. I've watched youtube videos of that stuff before and it seems like it would almost be easier to just become an analog watch repairman with how many microscopic metal or plastic transparent slivers you have to handle and keep track of. It's really not that bad, there are only 2 microscopic bits to worry about in a normal omron switch. The first time you do it the process kinda sucks, but set aside 20-30 minutes some evening and have patience. Here's a pictorial post I made with my personal tricks for some of the annoying parts.
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Apr 16, 2021 05:26
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Humerus posted:In all honesty if I could get my money back from Logitech I would probably buy a different mouse even though I'm one of the freaks that loves the G502 shape. It just feels like every day is a new lovely GHub experience. Do you have one of the 502 models that are supported in LGS? But also IMO the best thing about the logi gaming mice is using on-board profiles. Mouse software sucks, being able to ditch it entirely and still have your buttons mapped to whatever inputs is amazing.
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Apr 28, 2021 16:28
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Humerus posted:Will having the profiles onboard help them switch automatically though? No, you have to cycle them with a button on the mouse. (The tiny G9 button is pretty much made for that job.) AFAIK most logi mice with on-board have up to 5 profiles. It's no good if you want to have different profile macros for like firefox and excel, but for games it's fine. And honestly for getting into context-sensitive macros for productivity apps I'd point towards autohotkey anyways. quote:The application linked in the last page looked like it was just to set a single persistent profile to the mouse, is that wrong? I have a G700 and that app is only for the current ghub type mice, so I have no easy way to show you what to do. But you should be able to switch to on-board profiles and edit in ghub as well. I dunno exactly how it works, but it looks like this when on-board is turned on.
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Apr 28, 2021 16:59
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Artelier posted:Is there any software that can assign per-app mouse profiles? My friend is looking to buy a Razer Basilisk but he hates the Synapse software and apparently doesn't want to deal with it if at all possible. https://www.highrez.co.uk/downloads/xmousebuttoncontrol.htm It only handles "standard" mouse buttons* though, so some of the extra buttons on a Basilisk will only do whatever their default function without software is (or be non-functional if they need software to do things). *left right middle click, mouse 4 & 5 (aka forward back), scroll wheel rotate & wheel tilt e: orcane posted:TBH I want to because the Logitech software is terrible and getting worse, too. I bet Xmouse + a mouse with on-board profiles (like logi) would work pretty well for someone that wants both per-app productivity profile switching and gaming. Have your default profile set to the most standard set of mouse buttons for xmouse, then have gaming profiles with more keyboard stuff to bind in games. Klyith fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Jun 1, 2021 |
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Jun 1, 2021 15:30
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TacticalHoodie posted:I don't think that having to change the Omron switches is something that consumers need to do on a +100 dollar mouse. A lot of other mice companies have moved away from Omron switches so I am not sure why Logitech keeps using them when there is so many reports of switch failures with the Chinese Omron. The amount of videos showing people how to desolder their Omron switches from Logitech mice is reason enough not to keep using them. There's nothing wrong, in isolation, with the Omron switches. Logitech just hosed up by continuing to use a 5V spec switch with lower and lower power circuits, until they finally reached a breaking point of being so off-spec that they're almost non-functional. (It probably broke with the G_02 series because people complained a lot about battery life on the first G series.) I have 2 G700 mice (well a G700 and a G700S, but it's cosmetic differences) with chinese Omron switches. Bought in 2012 and 2017. They're IMO 'fine'. I had to open the switch to clean the contact / refresh the spring after 2-3 years with both of them. Not ideal, but I've had to do that with previous mice I've owned as well. Other mouse companies are switching to Kailh or whatever because everybody is like "omron sucks!" and they have vastly shorter turnaround on product lines than Logitech does. There's logitech and razer, and everyone else in high-end mice is pretty tiny. (Like, I ain't disagreeing that Logitech hosed up and that might be a reason to avoid the company. But the idea of choosing a mouse for the brand of switch inside is crazy to me. They're microswitches, they really aren't that different inside.) VVV oh absolutely, optical are very different. but a Kailh and an Omron contact switch aren't. Klyith fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Jun 1, 2021 |
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Jun 1, 2021 18:32
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TacticalHoodie posted:Part of me wanted to believe that it is the case and mouse brands play up the switches as a easy marketing win among enthusiasts and the reddit crowds. I don't see the two as mutually exclusive. There's a third factor, which is that people are extremely good at fooling themselves about things like this. We routinely overestimate the impact of small differences in conditions, when told that a difference exists. All of us have a little bit of audiophile in us. Basically the user-side difference between these various mouse switches is not rubber keyboard vs mechanical keyboard. It's more like between 4 different linear gaming mechanical switches that are all variations on the cherry red. Secretly swap them out with another very similar one, a whole lot of people wouldn't really notice. (This is OFC divorced from the double-clicking or other obvious broken results.) Aphrodite posted:I mean, it is the switches that fail. It’s not a random trendy thing.  : You buy a truck that needs a 80 amp alternator, but some idiot has installed a 40 amp alternator in it. It constantly runs out of battery and won't start. Put an 80 amp one into it, the truck is fine. Put that 40 amp one into a little hatchback, that car is fine. What was the failure?Similarly, the switch in a G Pro that double-clicks after 4 months has normal wear and oxides but is within spec for the switch. If you took that switch as-is and put it into a MX518, it would work perfectly well for years. The switch hasn't failed, the mouse has failed. You can fix it by replacing the switch, you can fix it (temporarily) by cleaning the switch, logitech could fix it by using a different switch, or sending more power through the switch instead of loving LEDs.
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Jun 2, 2021 21:01
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Opioid posted:I’ve been using my Deathadder 2013 edition since… well 2013. Prior to that I had a Deathadder v1. Looking to upgrade to something with a couple more thumb buttons or easy to use index finger buttons. I like the soft large size of the DA’s thumb buttons and after 10+ years with this size/shape was hoping for something similar. Mostly play FPS and space sims so I don’t need MMO level of buttons. AFAIK the only mice with top-side index finger buttons currently are Logitech, which... see the recent posts. I wouldn't recommend logitech currently unless you *really* want top buttons and are ok with returns / DIY repair. (This is me -- if both my G700 mice spontaneously exploded, I'd probably get a G604. But that's because I really like on-board profiles, the logitech shape, top buttons, and wireless. So there aren't many other options. But I'd still think twice.) For a bunch of extra thumb buttons, you might look at the HyperX Pulsefire Raid. Main reason is it has a symmetric shape that's kinda like a deathadder, but a bit flatter. It's supposedly pretty comfortable and only 10g heavier than a deathadder (light for an extra-buttons mouse). OTOH the HyperX software is supposedly garbage even by the standards of mouse software.  codo27 posted:I love Steelseries, I have a Rival 500 but its probably not what you want because it truly is "mmo level of buttons". Klyith fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 18:18
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Eric the Mauve posted:Is there anything worth buying below $100 but above the Random Chinese Company/Amazon Brand $15 tier that isn't Logitech or Razer? I like 'em big and heavy. I'm pretty sure the answer to this question is no, but if anyone knows otherwise it would be you crazy cats. Read the previous page ITT for why logitech is probably not worth buying, at least not the "gaming" series. AFAIK the MX line of office / general-purpose mice like the MX Master are fine. (Also they're fine for gaming, if you're not a competitive FPS player moving your mouse around in giant 2' arcs across your desk-size mousemat.) The trend right now in l33t gaming mice is super-lightweight. To get something with a bit more heft you could go oldschool razer deathadder, or for something wireless. Klyith fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Jun 6, 2021 |
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Jun 5, 2021 21:19
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Eric the Mauve posted:Thanks. I've already been burned by Dread Doubleclick Disease enough times (most recently by an MX) that I'm never buying a Logitech product again. Wireless is fine, I'm not a power gamer. But so many of the wireless options now are super tiny, which drives me bonkers (and I have small hands!) drat, that sucks. Here's a post I made about cleaning the switch contacts, if you wanna try that on your MX. I've had 100% success with that fixing doubleclick & drag-unclick. The 'fix' generally lasts about half as long as the mouse took to develop the problem from new. Aside from that I'd look at the deathadder then, it's nice and big. Razer uses optical switches now so no doubleclick. The wireless version is over your $100 budget, but amazon has them 'renewed' for only $70. Might be worth taking a chance on.
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Jun 5, 2021 21:38
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Eric the Mauve posted:Thanks again. I hope you won't think me rude for saying this, but: Nah, totally fine! It's not for everyone. And even for me it don't take 15 minutes, more like 30-40. Prob an hour the first time with a new model, when I don't know how the inner bits are connected. I get satisfaction from fixing things, but I'm also a giant loving cheapskate who will happily waste a few hours of my time to save some money. Not everyone is that cheap. And not everyone has as many hours to waste. Eric the Mauve posted:It takes me 2 hours to assemble a PC from a box of parts, which also should take less than a half hour, I'm bad at this Whoever told you it takes less than half an hour was lying. Even for a very simple build, 30 minutes is like a "nothing went wrong" time for someone with plenty of experience doing it. It's gonna take a first-timer a lot more time. 2 hours is not bad at this by any means. (Or it was someone who builds PC by just throwing poo poo together as fast as possible, and if they haven't hosed up and made a money-losing mistake they're lucky. Speed kills PC builds.)
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Jun 5, 2021 22:47
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 07:12 |
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the only thing I can think about when I look at mice with speed holes is "collection system for palm sweat and hand cheese" Can't imagine how loving gross those are gonna get after a couple years. I suppose an old toothbrush would clean them pretty well, but it's gonna take way more effort than just wiping down a mouse with rubbing alcohol every so often.
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Jun 6, 2021 00:03
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