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Yeah I like that. Somehow never thought of using plastic wrap to mold the epoxy. I think I would use nylon washers though to cut down on weight and stiffness.
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Apr 9, 2016 05:05
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Ok, I need a new helmet cam, and it has to have an external mic/lav input. I wanted one of these gopro clones: http://www.amazon.com/Lightdow-LD6000-Sports-Action-Camera/dp/B00XC46RWG?ie=UTF8&keywords=gopro%20clone&qid=1460432815&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 but it seems they have no mic input! I Just Don't want to spend loving $500 on a hero4. More like... $200 including the mic - is this possible? I also still have a ton of gopro accessories from my old "hero" cheapie model with no mic. Sold it, because of no mic. Seriously why would I just want windnoise? Do they assume you will just always slap on some wubstep on top of your sick nasty wheeile vids??
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Apr 12, 2016 04:49
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Voltage posted:Ok, I need a new helmet cam, and it has to have an external mic/lav input. I wanted one of these gopro clones: Drift Ghost HD (the older model, still available at a lot of places) might be right up your street. It's certainly the cheapest not-completely-poo poo cam I know of with an external mic socket.
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Apr 20, 2016 17:26
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meh.com has a good deal on a poor man gopro with accessories. Deal expires tomorrow at 9 PM if it doesn't sell out before then
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May 11, 2016 07:52
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I can't figure out if that one takes an external mic but for $35 I can't go wrong...
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May 11, 2016 13:00
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Keket posted:This popped up in my feed today, seems interesting but i bet it has a loving terrible battery life. "No one likes having to reach their hand up to their helmet to futz with buttons they can't see in order to control their accessory devices. Our handlebar and wrist-mounted remote controls allow you to easily interface with your smart helmet cam." Literally I all I do with my camera is press one button to turn it on then another to start recording, it's not particularly strenuous. "You'll notice there is no screen anywhere on our smart helmet cam. No one likes having to navigate through menus on those tiny LCD screens, so we allow you to control device settings directly from the FUSAR app on your smartphone." The thing that lives in my jacket pocket away from bulky leather gloves. This thing looks a little too clever for its own good, this whole "Internet of things" fad needs to die off already.
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May 11, 2016 22:48
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http://www.lgnewsroom.com/2016/05/lg-introduces-active-lifestyle-camera-with-live-streaming-over-4g/ LG has its own camera coming out now with live streaming. I always thought it'd be interesting to live stream riding but the only really interesting spots probably don't have data coverage.
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May 13, 2016 00:51
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I've done some riding streaming with periscope on a phone mounted to my helmet, it's.......ok
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May 13, 2016 01:20
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When I went to deal's gap I took over 14 hours of video. From that I was able to get to about 3:20 seconds of 'interesting' shots for a little video. Live streaming sounds terrible.
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May 15, 2016 06:09
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That's the problem, it combines all the worst parts of vlogging (assuming you hook a mic up) with all the worst parts of throwing an unedited video straight out of your GoPro onto YouTube. I think the only way it would be interesting is if you were on a race track, off road or riding through some insane political strife country.
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May 15, 2016 13:49
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Now I really want to watch a livestreaming racer who is awful but really bitter and blames his poor performance on the other racers somehow.
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May 15, 2016 16:04
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:That's the problem, it combines all the worst parts of vlogging (assuming you hook a mic up) with all the worst parts of throwing an unedited video straight out of your GoPro onto YouTube. People love watching livestreamed videos of driving anything at all, for whatever reason.
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May 18, 2016 21:12
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Dear thread, I would like a recommendation for a decent to high quality bike or helmet cam. Price range is within $500 or so. I don't care much about sound quality since I just want to document some neat rides to share with my international friends. And, you know, have a peace of mind for insurance purposes.
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May 19, 2016 17:27
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pokie posted:Dear thread, Im looking too and got it down to a couple choices: Sena 10c Replay XD Contour Roam3 and of course the usual GoPros, but I prefer something sleeker like the first 3.
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May 19, 2016 18:40
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JB50 posted:and of course the usual GoPros, but I prefer something sleeker like the first 3. What is your perception of their pros and cons?
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May 20, 2016 04:16
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Is there a trick to getting gopros to not look like hot loving garbage at night? I've seen some videos that look great, I did a quick test and it came out awful... I have a Hero Silver 3+... wrong version for that? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5bvX8WJPbE
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May 20, 2016 05:20
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pokie posted:What is your perception of their pros and cons? I really like the sena 10c because it has audio/bluetooth comm capabilities and is made for helmets. The Roam is the least expensive of them. The replay is probably the smallest and sounds like its really well built. Gopros are the most well known, but kinda ugly IMHO. I havent tried any of them so I was hoping the people who posted about them in this thread would come back and comment. Ive just been watching youtube reviews to get an idea of them.
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May 20, 2016 07:41
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JB50 posted:Im looking too and got it down to a couple choices: Drift Ghost S. If you can put up with the buggy firmware (which can be mostly worked around) it's got easily the best sensor and lens combination of any of the helmet cams. And to answer Razzled's question - yes, the solution is to sell the GoPro and buy a Drift.
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May 20, 2016 08:32
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Drift Ghost S. If you can put up with the buggy firmware (which can be mostly worked around) it's got easily the best sensor and lens combination of any of the helmet cams. And to answer Razzled's question - yes, the solution is to sell the GoPro and buy a Drift. You have any freeze-ups with it?
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May 20, 2016 09:01
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JB50 posted:You have any freeze-ups with it? I did yeah, but since I found the workaround(s) it's been rock-solid.
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May 20, 2016 09:27
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What are the problems and the workarounds with the drift?
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May 20, 2016 13:27
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Drift Ghost S. If you can put up with the buggy firmware (which can be mostly worked around) it's got easily the best sensor and lens combination of any of the helmet cams. And to answer Razzled's question - yes, the solution is to sell the GoPro and buy a Drift. I debated getting a ghost, but the mounting solutions for it seemed kind of binary-- definitely can't do chest or chin mount with one it seems
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May 20, 2016 17:13
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Keket posted:What are the problems and the workarounds with the drift? There's a bunch of related problems to do with the microsd card. Some of them are just "This is doing 1080p 60fps, your shameful cheap knockoff card can't write quick enough", but even with proper Class 10 or above cards it can sometimes freeze arbitrarily when trying to write. The most common problems are dirt on the contacts or the camera trying to write at the same time as it's rebalancing the card or generating thumbnails. The workarounds are to properly format the card using the SD consortium formatter rather than Windows, keep the contacts nice and clean, and don't start recording immediately after you turn the camera on (it rebalances the card when first turned on). The only other issue is the "empty card"/"death dragon" - every once in a while it just shits itself and makes a loving horrible noise (the "death dragon", a loud beep mixed with a bunch of noise) and requires a battery pull. When you turn it back on it thinks the card is empty and asks if you want to format it - ignore it, reboot it and the card comes back fine. I've only ever had that happen when using a cheap ebay replacement battery when it was low on charge, although others claim it happens with official batteries too. Since I started my ritual of "turn on camera, wheel out and start bike, then start recording" I've not had a single lockup in about 40 hours of use. It's loving irritating that Drift seem uninterested in fixing the problem (blaming Sony, who made the sensor and processing chipset) but IMO it's worth working around for the really high quality. Razzled posted:I debated getting a ghost, but the mounting solutions for it seemed kind of binary-- definitely can't do chest or chin mount with one it seems  side mount works for me, but I understand it's not as good for more artistic uses than mine
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May 20, 2016 18:46
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Interesting to know, how's battery life and charging?Razzled posted:I debated getting a ghost, but the mounting solutions for it seemed kind of binary-- definitely can't do chest or chin mount with one it seems Do the teletubby top of the head mount.
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May 20, 2016 19:37
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goddamnedtwisto posted:The workarounds are to properly format the card using the SD consortium formatter rather than Windows,
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May 20, 2016 20:27
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Keket posted:Interesting to know, how's battery life and charging? Fully charged battery gives easily 2 hours at 60fps 1080p, and you can either charge it as it runs (obviously you need at least a 2A USB charger) or swap out batteries. Chris Knight posted:I wonder if that's an ExFAT (correct) vs FAT32 thing. Not sure - it chops the files at just below 4GB anyway, and the problems do all seem to be speed-related, so it's not an outright "FAT32 just won't work" thing. Is ExFAT lower overhead than FAT32? Oh one other thing with the Drift (and I'm not sure if this is a symptom or a cause) but mounting the card via the camera is really ridiculously slow compared to putting the card in a reader.
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May 20, 2016 23:36
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Most if not all devices are like that. I remember buying a Kingston (I think) sd card reader that was a pile of poo poo. Got another reader from the £1 store and it worked like a champ. It make no sense.
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May 21, 2016 01:30
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Not sure - it chops the files at just below 4GB anyway, and the problems do all seem to be speed-related, so it's not an outright "FAT32 just won't work" thing. Is ExFAT lower overhead than FAT32?
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May 21, 2016 04:03
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goddamnedtwisto posted:
My Drift came in the mail today. How would you recommend mounting it? Which side of the helmet do you prefer? I have not used cameras on my bike before, so please excuse the obvious questions.
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May 28, 2016 04:49
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Dunno how to mount those pathetic 'not-gopros' but I would pick the side of the helmet thats on the middle of the road. Left side in civilized countries or right side if you live where they say 'mate'.
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May 28, 2016 17:25
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Does anyone have experience with these? http://www.amazon.com/Sena-10C-01-M...=pd_cart_wl_2_1 Reviews looks good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELH7Lot-Kt0
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Jun 6, 2016 16:29
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nsaP posted:Dunno how to mount those pathetic 'not-gopros' but I would pick the side of the helmet thats on the middle of the road. Left side in civilized countries or right side if you live where they say 'mate'. Yeah, cos GoPros have such flexible mounting options like "three tons of meccano to make it point vaguely in the direction of travel". Other than that this is actually good advice as to side. The particularly good thing about the Drift mount is because you can change the yaw and rotate the lens/sensor, it's pretty flexible on side-mounting. Best spot, I think, is below and slightly ahead of your visor mount - this will give you the best forward FOV. However the particular design of your helmet might make that impossible (my old AGV Skyline had a little indentation there that made it impossible to fit it there, so it had to go directly behind the visor mount. Still fine but slightly restricts the view on the opposite side). Put it all together on one of the curved mounts and experiment with dry-mounting it (use a little blutac or similar to hold it in place). The main things to look for is that you don't mount it so low that it's resting on the camera when the helmet's off (this could also lead to it interfering with shoulder checks of course), and that you're not on a sharp curve that might affect adhesion. When you've got a likely spot, mount it, eyeball straightening the lens, then take it out for a test ride - you're more than likely to be off by a good ten or more degrees on elevation but like I say that's easily changed. If you want to experiment, it's easy to take the adhesive portion of the mount off. Put a screwdriver into the mount and use a hairdryer to heat the pad while slowly levering the screwdriver to lift it (get the hairdryer on the side that's lifting) and as long as you're patient it should come off without leaving a mark. DO NOT USE A HEAT GUN unless you can restrict the temperature, as it may melt the lacquer on the helmet, and never be tempted to ram a driver or knife into the pad to speed things up as you can damage the helmet very easily.
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Jun 6, 2016 19:19
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Has anyone here permanently mounted a cam on their bike, hard-wired? Out of the cheap cams available, the Drift Stealth 2 seems the best candidate: its about 100 bux, has a waterproof case option, rotating lens, and can be put into DVR mode via a usb cable. I havent hard wired anything to a bike before but I assume it would be similar to setting up a car dashcam. I am not too worried about an external mic or anything like that, but from what I can see online it is feasible to hack the camera to add one if you feel like cracking it open. Id really just like a no hassle camera that starts with the bike and just runs all the time. I guess another option would be a helmet cam that tethers to permanent power on the bike. I hate charging poo poo, I am already annoyed that I occasionally have to plug in my Sena, I always forget. Am I missing an obvious option for a permanent camera rig?
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Jul 8, 2016 01:12
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PaintVagrant posted:Has anyone here permanently mounted a cam on their bike, hard-wired? Out of the cheap cams available, the Drift Stealth 2 seems the best candidate: its about 100 bux, has a waterproof case option, rotating lens, and can be put into DVR mode via a usb cable. I havent hard wired anything to a bike before but I assume it would be similar to setting up a car dashcam. I am not too worried about an external mic or anything like that, but from what I can see online it is feasible to hack the camera to add one if you feel like cracking it open. Well the electronics part is easy - it's the sort of job you can do with basically no electrics experience. You'll need a crimper, a pack of butt splices (get used to not giggling at those words) and some spade connectors (male and female) some eyelet crimps, some decent wiring (figure-8 cable will be perfect), a SPNO (single-pole normally-open) relay (preferably waterproof, rated for at least 12A/10A), a waterproof fuse holder, a 5A fuse, a car cigarette ligher socket and some silicone grease. Maybe pick up some heat-shrink while you're there too if you want to do a really nice job. All of this stuff should be available from any electronics shop or anywhere that sells car stereo stuff. Total cost is like £30, tops. Pick where you want to mount stuff - under the seat is favourite but if you've got a really crowded area down there you can zip-tie it to a handy bit of the frame or engine, or maybe behind the headlights or fairing although obviously make sure it doesn't touch any hot components or block the steering or any of the controls. Now choose the wire you want to use to actuate the relay - this is a live wire to any component that's powered on when the bike is. Tail lights are favourite for convenience but if you have automatic headlights they're a good choice too, so it doesn't come on until the bike is actually running, which is handy if your battery is a bit weedy. Cut the wire near to where you want to mount the relay, Strip a cm or so of insulation from both ends, and mount female crimp connectors to both endsand push a little bit of silicone grease into the open ends of the crimps (not over the terminals!) - heat shrink is handy here too, just be careful where you point the heat gun/hair dryer). Push the connectors onto the sense prongs of the relay (there will be a diagram on it, you want the connectors that are at either end of the curly-wire-looking symbol). Turn on the bike and make sure you hear a click - if you have amultimeter (and why not?!?!?) make sure there's continuity over the other two prongs when it's on. Get your fuse holder (it will normalyl have a long-enough bit of wire to stretch from the battery to the relay, otherwise use a butt splice, greased and heat-shrunk as before, to extend it), and put an eyelet connector (large enough to go over your battery terminal, obviously) one one end and a female connector . Then another bit of live long enough to go from the relay to the cigarette lighter, with a spade connector at one end and whatever connector the lighter needs (normally a butt splice because it will have bare wire) at the other, and a bit of neutral wire from the socket to the battery, again with an eyelet and whatever the lighter needs). Connect up the lighter to the relay (direction should be irrelevant), the neutral to the relay, then the live and neutral to the battery (disconnect the neutral first, then the live, then put the eyelets on, then connect live first then neutral) Congratulations, you now have a switched 12v cigarette lighter socket on your bike. Pop in the charger socket for the camera and you're ready to go. If you're feeling saucy put in a lighter splitter for future use. As to permanently mounting, that's a little trickier. Using the standard mounts is no good, it's ten seconds work to remove them. You could epoxy the mount in place but obviously you have to be really confident in how you've mounted it because tweaking after-the-fact is out of the question. If you can hide it away somewhere that will probably help the security.
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Jul 8, 2016 03:32
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 Fantastic post, I really appreciate it. I think I will take a swing at it at some point in the next month or so. I will post my results here. As far as mounting the camera, I figured perhaps somewhere in the gap between front fairing and front wheel, maybe fork mounted. Have to figure out how much actual room is there with the suspension compressed. Another option could be behind the windscreen, but mine is a dark tinted one so that wont work on my particular bike without replacing it.edit, maybe on the mudguard, tucked back a bit. Hrm. PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jul 8, 2016 |
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Jul 8, 2016 03:49
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The SD card will run out of space eventually (like a few hours). It may be a good idea that the camera can automatically write over the oldest files so that you don't need to worry about changing the card.
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Jul 8, 2016 04:51
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pokie posted:The SD card will run out of space eventually (like a few hours). It may be a good idea that the camera can automatically write over the oldest files so that you don't need to worry about changing the card. I believe (and will have to doublecheck) that DVR mode just continuously re-writes the oldest video files on the card. I dont want to have to swap cards!
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Jul 8, 2016 04:54
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pokie posted:The SD card will run out of space eventually (like a few hours). It may be a good idea that the camera can automatically write over the oldest files so that you don't need to worry about changing the card. The higher end GoPros have this and it's nice. My Hero 3 black died for no reason so I got the entry level $129 model to replace it and it only holds 32gb. And it doesn't have that option. I barely use it because it's a nuisance constantly dumping the card. I suppose I could just format every time instead of doing it on PC..
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Jul 8, 2016 05:21
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PaintVagrant posted:I believe (and will have to doublecheck) that DVR mode just continuously re-writes the oldest video files on the card. I dont want to have to swap cards! That's how it works on the Ghost, certainly. I've just realised there's a couple of mistakes in my little epic - still not bad for drunken shitposting. Of course some people when unable to sleep and several drinks in write long and instantly-regretted emails to ex-partners, I write long explanations of motorbike electronics. Not sure what that says about me.
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Jul 8, 2016 07:40
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I saw recently a two-channel dashcam for motorcycles which will also run in a motion-sensing mode powered by internal battery for a period of time after the bike is turned off, so maybe google that if you want something made for the job.
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Jul 8, 2016 09:15
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