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Friction, I have an Ampeg 4x12 that the grill is a frame that the cloth is stretched over and fits very tightly into the front of the cabinet. A simple pull and it comes right out, but it's tight enough that it won't fall out all by itself.
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Nov 16, 2009 05:37
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the wizards beard posted:I've widened nuts before using string ends and strings wrapped in sandpaper but better tool would make this much easier and give nicer results. I'll let you know how I get on, hopefully the StewMac stuff is rebranded and not exclusive to his site Go by all the welding stuff and get a set of torch tip cleaners. They are round gauged files that work great as a cheap set of nut files for a one off project.
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Dec 2, 2009 21:30
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All of the instructions are available on GGG's site. You don't even need to order the board/kit if you can handle etching the PCB/sourcing parts yourself. The kits just make it easy to one stop shop.
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Dec 20, 2009 04:24
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Is it the adapter that would have come stock with it, or is it one that was just laying around at the Goodwill? Double check the polarity, and the mA rating. Sometimes electronics can be picky about the power they are getting.
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Dec 30, 2009 00:43
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One of these maybe? http://store.guitarfetish.com/gfsprlihupic.html They come in black and gold too.
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Jan 9, 2010 04:54
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Ferrous Wheel posted:Hmmm. Alnico II and 12k of winding just might do the job. Especially in black, maybe chrome. I've been leaning toward a Duncan triple shot ring for phase and splitting options and the pro tubes have the leads for that as well. Thanks for the recommendation-- I'd been looking at retrotrons but totally overlooked these. I thought it would be cool to buy a black one and a chrome one, and take them apart and put them back together to end up with a metallic "zebra" look. If they are like the lipstick I just put in the neck of my recent project guitar they are just bolted to the base plates. They are four conductor wire anyways so the coils are already split up.
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Jan 9, 2010 22:30
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scuz posted:Man, I'm dumb. I thought it'd be really tough to track this poo poo down, but mojo music supply has all that stuff, too. Check this out as a little how to. http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/ts0036_custompkup.hzml
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Jan 31, 2010 05:22
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Gorilla Salsa posted:Radioshack irons are handy for beginners, and you can get concentric pots from places like Allparts and Parts-express. The tips on Radioshack irons suck and will eat themselves up in no time even with moderate use. If you're going to order things from Parts-Express anyways just add this in. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=374-100
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Mar 14, 2010 15:49
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The Leck posted:I'm looking at replacing the pickups in my Ibanez AM-73 (semi-hollowbody). How much of a necessity is it to replace the electronics apart from the pickups? I understand that pickup replacement is a pain in the rear end, and if I wouldn't see much benefit from replacing the pots, I'd prefer to tear things up as little as possible. If it ain't broke don't fix it. The only reason you might consider it is if you are switching from say humbuckers to single coils.
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May 11, 2010 23:38
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mrbradlymrmartin posted:the bridge posts on gibsons are supposed to be crooked. do you mean the tailpiece posts? those are usually parallel to the frets They are slanted as it relates to the frets, but look at his picture. The insert for the bridge post is slanting forward noticeably. From what he says he fixed it already.
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May 25, 2010 01:45
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Crudus posted:I want the instrument to look and be timbrally (sp?) similar to a shamisen, but amplified. As such, I probably wont use an ordinary fretboard, but something fretless. However, I am mindful that the string spacing will need to be careful in order to take advantage of the poles like I want to. There are rail-style humbuckers that fit in a single coil hole. A rail style single coil would have some hum it is just the nature of the design of single coil pick ups. Lipstick style pickups don't have pole pieces either the wire is wound around the magnet inside the tube so it should act like a rail would in case you want another option to look into.
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May 26, 2010 19:22
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If you want a little more protection than nothing but not as much as that thing look into a slipcover. Like this here: http://www.zzounds.com/item--FEN0050279000
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Jun 23, 2010 00:39
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4MS is a pretty cool company, they have kits for their stuff, as well as enough documentation on the projects that if you can make your own PCB's you can do it yourself completely. They also recently started offering the projects in the modular synth style modulus. http://www.4mspedals.com/
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Jul 3, 2010 05:43
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Concatenation posted:Does anyone remember the address of that site that does custom guitar string sets? I've mixed and matched gauges to set up one of my guitars properly and I'd like to custom order a new set. http://www.juststrings.com/ ? They have singles in any gauge available anyways.
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Jul 5, 2010 20:15
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Three Red Lights posted:Can anyone recommend a midi floorpedal? Basically I want to be able to play back samples with a footpress. Tech 21 Midi Mouse That's probably about as small/simple as you can get.
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Jul 12, 2010 14:23
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Three Red Lights posted:Would that send notes though? or just change patches? You said you wanted to play back samples, the buttons let you scroll through the patches, and the other one is the trigger. So you click through to the sample you want off of your keyboard/sampler/whatever and then hit the trigger button to play it. I forgot about the MIDI Buddy. http://www.rolls.com/product.php?pid=MP128 Should be able to pick one up cheap on ebay.
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Jul 12, 2010 20:38
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not a dinosaur posted:Because literally the only maple body guitar I can find is some baritone ESP guitar For your $800-$1200 budget you might be able to swing getting a custom Carvin built. At least that way you'd be able to get it with the exact body woods and all you want.
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Jul 13, 2010 23:29
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Paramemetic posted:Is there a decent way to paint a pickguard that won't look like rear end or cause weird textures or anything? I can't find quite what I'm looking for online, though I've found things that will work. I'd like to give a go at just painting the thing though if it can be done quickly (I'm horribly impatient) and effectively. I'm worried about regular paints coming off when they're struck by the pick and having a weird texture, and I don't know about rattlecanning it. Krylon Fusion works on plastics great.
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Jul 30, 2010 02:34
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Ferrous Wheel posted:Those can all be relied upon to fit the neck pocket? That would be very convenient if true. If you want a full custom neck I know a guy who can build you anything you want.
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Aug 19, 2010 02:08
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Ferrous Wheel posted:I was trying to avoid the expense of a hand built custom job but go ahead and give me his deets in case I decide to go that way. The most likely outcome if it's unplayable is a Mark Sandman style slide thingie- worse things could happen to a guitar really. His e-mail is Jre_productions@yahoo.com Look for a guy by the name of Joe Desperado on the ReRanch forums and TDPRI if you want to see some of the necks he's built for others.
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Aug 20, 2010 00:08
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Coupon Wizard posted:My B and high E string on my mexican tele constantly go out of tune, especially if I bend them. It's easily remedied by pushing on the strings behind the nut (this brings them back up to the correct pitch every time), but it is really starting to annoy me. How do I stop this problem from happening? Lube your nut. There are products you can buy for it, but you can just simply rub a pencil in the slot and that should help too. While you are at it check that the slots don't have any burrs in them that is causing the binding.
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Aug 22, 2010 13:35
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baka kaba posted:Anyone got any strap lock recommendations? And are those collars that fit over the screw worth the plastic they're made of? I have a set of these on a build I did last year, so far so good with them. http://www.guitarfetish.com/REDESIGNED-Chrome-Strap-Locks-Pair-Straplok-style-HEAVY-DUTY--In-Stock_p_598.html There is always the washer from a Grolsch beer bottle too.
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Aug 22, 2010 23:44
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The bottles it comes in have a little flip top instead of a regular bottle cap. It is sealed with a red rubber washer that just so happens to be the perfect size to fit on a strap button to hold a strap in place. Like so:  (not my pic, just random GIS)
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Aug 23, 2010 02:11
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Specter posted:Was digging through my pop's pile of "got it for 5 bucks at a swap meet" and dug out most of a Sherwood lap steel which has had some pretty questionable things done to it by a previous owner. Post pictures of it, depending on the pickup there could be people out there willing to buy it for parts. What makes you think the pickup needs replaced anyways?
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Nov 5, 2010 03:53
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It would probably affect the sound some. There are "beam blockers" that do that same sort of thing cover up part of the speaker, to change how much it projects. A stencil sprayed on the grill might be better as far as sound goes, but would be more permanent. Get some other grill cloth and take the stock one off and stash it away and stretch the new one over the opening and then paint that. That way you can return it to stock anytime if you decide to sell it.
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Nov 6, 2010 23:39
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Since it is already butchered up I agree with the GFS recommendation. You can make the tuners less wonky just plug up the holes with some toothpicks and glue and put a straight edge along them to line them up and re-drill the holes. It probably had some terrible 3 on a plate tuners originally. From a quick googling about it looks like the original pick-up was a rail style single coil. The pick up that is there might even be fine just not wired right or not sounding right because it is not lined up correctly. No harm in opening it up to check and see, if it is a name brand pick up you might even break even if you swap it out and sell the old one on eBay.
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Nov 7, 2010 03:16
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F spaced is the poles are set a little wider mostly for guitars with trems.DiMarzio FAQ posted:What is F-spacing?
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Nov 10, 2010 02:14
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SSJ2 Goku Wilders posted:welp i gave it three days and didn't really get any comments here, so i went and bought: No it's not the same as on the headstock. That bar is there to hold the springs in the block. I've never had it happen but if you get too aggressive with the bar the springs could pop out of the block. That bar will prevent it from happening.
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Nov 28, 2010 18:15
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Boz0r posted:What are some important things to look out for when buying normal jack-cables? And can anyone recommend some good/cheap ones? Cheaper ones aren't always worth it if you are going to be gigging with them. Planet Waves, Monster Cable, Spectraflex, and some others I'm sure all offer lifetime replacement warranties I wouldn't really consider anything that wasn't covered by something similar. You might pay a little more up front, but when you step on the cord and rip the jack off the end it's nice to be able to just take it to the nearest dealer and swap it out.
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Dec 1, 2010 01:13
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Use toothpicks and wood glue to plug the holes, that way you are drilling into wood not just a lump of glue or filler.
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Dec 16, 2010 01:05
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rockcity posted:
Getting a matte finish is tough because your prep work, and spraying have to be perfect since you can't sand/buff/polish it like you can a gloss finish and have it look right. Black is even worse because it shows every little imperfection. You'll have to block sand your body really well. You can get satin finish clear Minwax makes a really great one it comes in black spray cans, most every Home Depot will carry it. Come over to the ReRanch forums and ask your question there and you'll get a ton more information than I can type out right now.
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Apr 19, 2011 01:13
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rockcity posted:Awesome, thanks for that link. You were the person I was hoping would answer my question. Your guitar from scratch build thread in DIY was amazing. Sweet, it's honestly not hard to get a great finish you just have to be patient and take your time. The prep work is the big key if you skimp out there it will telegraph through the finish.
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Apr 19, 2011 19:45
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This is pretty decent, but it is biased towards SD pick-ups of course. http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/choosing-installing/how_to_pick_a_pickup.pdf
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May 2, 2011 23:32
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Seventh_Samurai posted:I had a crazy/potentially awesome idea today. I have one of these that I never play since getting an acoustic guitar that I like better. I've got a lovely acoustic pickup it right now, but had the idea to go all out and put a humbucker in there, wire up a volume knob and a jack and essentially turn it into some kind of hosed up acoustic-electric/hollowbody monstrosity. I did it recently with one of my cheapie acoustics and it worked fine. I was able to mount it directly to the sound hole by stacking up two humbucker rings and sandwiching the edge of the hole between them. I had just wired it directly to an enclosed jack taped to the side of the guitar. I didn't ground the strings at all, if you were using a single coil the hum might be a problem but it was fine with a humbucker. I only played with it in my bedroom and it would feed back really easy, but as long as you didn't let the strings vibrate it was fine. The first thing I played on it was "Cat Scratch Fever", it was perfect for that sound.
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Jun 4, 2011 02:41
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The right way to fix it would require pulling the frets gluing in the new inlays and sanding them level to the board. I could be done with out pulling the frets and refretting, but it is a pain in the rear end especially at the higer frets. You have to sand with the grain in between the frets. You might be able to do it with some careful pre-sanding to thickness and then scraping level with a razor blade.
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Jun 15, 2011 02:01
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codyclarke posted:I have a fender twin reverb, and I wanna get a power attenuator for it. Probably gonna get the THD Hot Plate. The problem is they come in a variety of 'ohms': 2, 2.7, 4, 8, and 16. How do I find out which one I need to buy? And also, are power attenuators difficult to setup and use? I have no experience with them. You need the one that matches the output of your amp. Look on the back of it it should say. They just plug in between the amp and the speakers and that's pretty much it. I do believe they get pretty hot while in use so might want to make sure it has plenty of airflow around it. Some people say the Hot Plates color the sound of the amp somewhat, so you might want to try and find a place you could try one out in person before you commit.
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Jul 1, 2011 01:50
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UrethraFranklin posted:How much would a 1992 SG Junior go for? It's in good condition except for the back of the neck where it meets the headstock. The head got cracked off and it was home-repaired. The Truss rod is functional though, and it's set straight and plays fine, it's just an ugly looking repair. Gibson? or Epiphone? I'm guessing Gibson since the headstock broke. SG resale value isn't that great unfortunately maybe $400-$600 as a rough range.
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Jul 14, 2011 04:11
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Hammer Floyd posted:First gig ever tonight! Had an absolute loving blast and the audience loved it. Or get some fingerless gloves.
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Jul 28, 2011 19:16
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Hammer Floyd posted:Once we had all our gear loaded up on-stage, I was running through scales and stuff with the amp on standby so nobody could hear me. Also, it was only my fingers that had frozen, not my hands so I dont know if fingerless gloves will help. I'll try it though. Any other suggestions? Stick your hands down your pants?
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Jul 28, 2011 23:37
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CPL593H posted:I wanted to make a guitar more prone to feedback. Will opening it up and removing the shielding help that? Or does the removal of the shielding just make it more prone to buzzing sounds and interference? The guitar I want to do this to is a MIM Strat. I've even been considering replacing the pickups with some from an old Silvertone/Teisco type guitar to get a feedbacky kind of sound. Removing the shielding will just make it noisier(not in a good way) it might even start picking up radio signals(that can be kinda cool). If you want more feed back stand closer to the amp and turn it up louder.
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Aug 22, 2011 03:11
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